Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread - Page 73 - AVS Forum
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post #2161 of 2312 Old 08-23-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bass addict View Post
I am stumped regarding running an anamorphic setup. I have a Panamorph FVX200j with the mount specifically made for the JVC lineup. I purchased it at the same time I sold my RS20 and purchased an HC9000. I used their universal mount instead of the custom one at the time and have had no issues at all with it. My screen is a 2.35 AR and wider AR movies fall onto the velvet sides with no ill effects.

Well I just picked up a 4910 and have installed the lens with the custom mount. No matter what I do I have black bars on the top and bottom of the screen. I have to zoom the image a large amount to get the screen to fill the top and bottom, and by this time the image is spilling off the side by a fair amount. I've gone through everything I can think of and am puzzled as to why this is. Anything I might be missing that I should try. I don't see why this would be any different than the HC9000 was. I even went back to the universal mount with the same outcome.

The other changes made to the system are: I upgraded from the Onkyo 3009 to a Yamaha A5000 and an Oppo 103 to 103D.

Thanks

I don't have a lens I use masking, but I believe there is a setting in the JVC called anamorphic? Does that have to be on? Sorry not familiar with how a lens works.

James Reid:D
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post #2162 of 2312 Old 08-23-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cardoski View Post
I don't have a lens I use masking, but I believe there is a setting in the JVC called anamorphic? Does that have to be on? Sorry not familiar with how a lens works.
There are 2 options in the JVC menu for either an HE or VC lens. I'm definitely using the right one.

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post #2163 of 2312 Old 08-23-2014, 10:08 PM
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Screen goes black

Thx seanbryan,

Yes I have a Darblet in the loop. Will try to remove it. Such a shame, meaning I cannot use the Darblet with the JVC ?

Also, i have a problem when playing the Hobbit 3D on my Oppo 103D. The screen goes black every so often. It is displaying 1080p 24 (FP) when it goes on again. What is FP ?

It is fine when I play a 2D movie.

Appart of that, the picture is really good.

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post #2164 of 2312 Old 08-23-2014, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post
Thx seanbryan,

Yes I have a Darblet in the loop. Will try to remove it. Such a shame, meaning I cannot use the Darblet with the JVC ?

Also, i have a problem when playing the Hobbit 3D on my Oppo 103D. The screen goes black every so often. It is displaying 1080p 24 (FP) when it goes on again. What is FP ?

It is fine when I play a 2D movie.

Appart of that, the picture is really good.
Definitely try removing the Darblet. I had the same problem you described, and I also had issues with with 3D while using the Darblet. Removing the Darblet fixed the problems.

I had no such issues with last year's RS-4810, but JVC has a ... problematic implementation of their HDMI connectivity this year. The Darblet can still be used with this year's models in some configurations depending on the cables and other components in the chain, etc... But it just seems like there's more of a chance for problems with the Darblet with this year's JVCs.

Ultimately, I found the subtle enhancement offered by the Darblet was not worth the buggy HDMI issues. Everything is stable and as it should be with the Darblet out of the chain and I honestly do not miss it. I would still use the Darbee processing (at a low level) if it is available in a future AVR or BD player.
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post #2165 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnecTEDDD View Post




Hello, I have designed a Cube Resolution Comparison Guide to visualize the difference of calibrated color points precision over various cube resolution sizes between all available hardware solutions.

For example, Dolby Monitor, the best Monitor available in the world is coming factory pre-calibrated too but they performing a new calibration when they are installing/buying it.... a Brand New Dolby needs re-calibration using 3D Look Up Table too..

For example Dolby Monitor (50.000$) has 2x 3D LUT & 4x 1D LUT Slots. The size of the 3D LUT Table is 65-Point Cube.

Ever Dolby Monitor which designed to be reference needs 3D LUT profiling to meet the tight tolerance in color errors that required for critical color reproduction for movie granding in post-production facilities.

There is a Dolby Certified Calibrator who travels around the world to visit post-production facilities to perform 3D-LUT Profiling. That calibrator from Dolby is using PhotoReseach PR-740 and JETI 1211 for spectros.

Professional displays like Eizo ColorEdge (some hi-end models, 3D LUT capable), FSI (Flanders Scientific Inc), TVLogic, Dolby Monitors have internal memories that can store 3D LUT correction tables, there models of 2K/4K DCI projectors (Barco etc.) that have internal memories for 3D LUT Tables also.

So if reference displays that are designed to have reference performance need 3D LUT profiling imagine how off is a consumer display/projector....

Reference performance consumer displays doesn't exist, just you can't see the problems if you are measuring it with a limited number of color patches (30-50).



Good Grayscale /Gamut tracking with low dE numbers can't tell you the whole story of the accurancy of one display, for example the average Caucasian skin tone resides well away from any grey scale, or primary colour, and as such is ignored by most calibration systems.

For more info read here.

I have created also the following spec comparison table with the complete list of the 3D LUT Boxes / Video Processors that are currently available at pro industry/consumer market.

That comparison screens shows only the device features that are useful or can be used for HT use only. More more info look here.





I hope that helped.


What I meant (jokingly) was that a 103D with a built in LUT, like a Lumagen, would be sweet
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post #2166 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post
Thx seanbryan,

Yes I have a Darblet in the loop. Will try to remove it. Such a shame, meaning I cannot use the Darblet with the JVC ?

Also, i have a problem when playing the Hobbit 3D on my Oppo 103D. The screen goes black every so often. It is displaying 1080p 24 (FP) when it goes on again. What is FP ?

It is fine when I play a 2D movie.

Appart of that, the picture is really good.

If you have a 103D, why do you also need the Darblet? I just got a 103D because the darblet was causing too many issues with the 4910. It was less problematic with my old RS40, but still a pain. The Oppo integration seems to be much better.
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post #2167 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 11:20 AM
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For anyone with a 4910 and a player you can select 4:4:4 vs 4:2:0, be sure to check both. Many had said to use 4:2:0 out of the 103D. I checked that last night with the Spears and Munsil Chroma up sampling and Zone patterns and there was obvious errors. Switch to Auto or 4:4:4 (what I assume auto is negotiating removed those errors completely. Guess it goes without saying to always check with your own setup.
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post #2168 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 11:24 AM
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Question:

I'm getting to the 100 hour mark and will be recalibrating again. I did it at 0 hours and 50. I'm thinking I've probably lost about 15% output. That seems to be about right for lamp break-in. I will probably need to open my IRIS all the way, even with a 100" 1.1 gain screen with a 12 Ft throw to get close to 14FtL using low lamp mode.

Anyone else seeing similar drop during break-in? I thought normal loss for a new lamp after about 100 hours was upwards of 30% drop off before it settles in. obviously each lamp is a bit different.
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post #2169 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Question:
Anyone else seeing similar drop during break-in? I thought normal loss for a new lamp after about 100 hours was upwards of 30% drop off before it settles in. obviously each lamp is a bit different.
I have now 300hrs on my JVC-X500 and have on 110" on ECO mode calibrated about 19 FtL (IRIS -1) ... When i use IRIS -7 then i had about 15 FtL...
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post #2170 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BennyTurbo View Post
I have now 300hrs on my JVC-X500 and have on 110" on ECO mode calibrated about 19 FtL (IRIS -1) ... When i use IRIS -7 then i had about 15 FtL...
What gain screen? I never saw that much light output when new on either 4910 I had. When new, calibrated I was at about 13.5 FtL.
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post #2171 of 2312 Old 08-24-2014, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
If you have a 103D, why do you also need the Darblet? I just got a 103D because the darblet was causing too many issues with the 4910. It was less problematic with my old RS40, but still a pain. The Oppo integration seems to be much better.
So Curly, the Oppo implementation of Darbee is better than the stand-alone unit? I just wanted to know, cause I was one of the pre-order guys that had tons of trouble with HDMI synch issues and, after the firmware update, everything is pretty well perfect. My Sony S790 tray is glitchy and the audio/video drop out about twice in every movie I watch so I had my eye on the Oppo 103D, but I'm not going back to the problems I used to have with this pj for ANY amount of money

I also was getting around 20ftL with a new bulb, 1.1ga on 106" at 14' back (factory defaults on movie not in eco mode). I've got about 200 hours now and need to remeasure...and time for a calibration. Does anyone have experience with BOTH Calman and Chromapure on this pj and which one works best? (take into account I haven't used either and don't want to devote more than half a day one time for this)

Last edited by pottscb; 08-24-2014 at 10:23 PM. Reason: another thought
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post #2172 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 02:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
What gain screen? I never saw that much light output when new on either 4910 I had. When new, calibrated I was at about 13.5 FtL.
Even if he was using a 1.0 gain screen, he would need 685 lumens on low lamp with the iris open to get 19ftL. Sound about right. I'm getting about 700 lumens on my 120in 1.0 gain screen to give me 16ftL on low lamp with the iris open.
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post #2173 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
What gain screen? I never saw that much light output when new on either 4910 I had. When new, calibrated I was at about 13.5 FtL.
I saw your earlier post. When you say you calibrated it and got 13.5 ftL, was that using a 1.1 gain 100in diagonal screen? Was the iris open? Was it low lamp? Because 365 lumens gets you 13.5 ftL on a 100in diagonal 1.1 gain screen.

The calculation is: (365 lumens)x(1.1 gain)/(29.6 sq ft) = 13.5 ftL.

Last edited by blee0120; 08-25-2014 at 02:20 AM.
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post #2174 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post
I saw your earlier post. When you say you calibrated it and got 13.5 ftL, was that using a 1.1 gain 100in diagonal screen? Was the iris open? Was it low lamp? Because 365 lumens gets you 13.5 ftL on a 100in diagonal 1.1 gain screen.

The calculation is: (365 lumens)x(1.1 gain)/(29.6 sq ft) = 13.5 ftL.

There are a few variables here. Yes my screen is 1.1 elite cinewhite, but I have read it may be closer to 1. Also, I set peak white at 235, not 255.

I just checked my report and last time I calibrated, I got around 13ftL with the IRIS at -4 I probably had over just over 50 hours on the lamp. I also had to dial my contrast to -1 to correct dE at 100% and I hope to fix that when I recalibrate at 100 hours. This was measured with both and i1pro and a C6. If I use a cheap lux meter from the screen aimed back the PJ I got about 240 Lux this weekend which would be 661 lumens or 24.5 ftL and that does not seem possible. I only use that meter to measure relative loss. Started out at 270 Lux, so that would be about a 10% drop now at 90 hours.

Keep in mind, these are all calibrated numbers in low lamp. I have not taken an uncalibrated reading at IRIS 0.

I am thinking about doing my 100 hour calibration with the IRIS at 0. Seems some feel with the DI this isn't a bad tradeoff in contrast performance. Others have made the point that you still get better ANSI with brighter scenes with it closed a bit.

I never seem to get anywhere near what others get on any of the projectors I've had. I'm just trying too see if my lamp seems bad. It's very hard to compare with so many variables.
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post #2175 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
What gain screen? I never saw that much light output when new on either 4910 I had. When new, calibrated I was at about 13.5 FtL.
I had a WSS Grand Cinema S with 1.2 Gain... with new lamp i had about 22 FtL ... on ECO Mode with IRIS on "0"
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post #2176 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BennyTurbo View Post
I had a WSS Grand Cinema S with 1.2 Gain... with new lamp i had about 22 FtL ... on ECO Mode with IRIS on "0"

If I had to guess, brand new out of the box with IRIS at 0 I was probably about 18ftL with a 1.1 gain screen (probably closer 1.0 though)

Is anyone seeing any light drop off during their first 100 hours....seems odd that you wouldn't.
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post #2177 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
If I had to guess, brand new out of the box with IRIS at 0 I was probably about 18ftL with a 1.1 gain screen (probably closer 1.0 though)

Is anyone seeing any light drop off during their first 100 hours....seems odd that you wouldn't.

I don't even calibrate untill after 100hrs and I really did not notice any drop off, but I use my PJ everyday so it would be hard to notice.

James Reid:D
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post #2178 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 12:28 PM
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I don't even calibrate untill after 100hrs and I really did not notice any drop off, but I use my PJ everyday so it would be hard to notice.
Yeah I wanted to play with my new calibration toys

It would be hard to spot drops in brightness, so without a measurement you wouldn't really know. Most UHP lamps do dim a bit especially during the first 100 hours, which is probably why you help off until you got to that point anyway.
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post #2179 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 03:10 PM
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I've recently purchased a JVC RS49U - so far so good 2D material runs perfectly well, but when it comes to 3D there is an issue. I don't have a BD-player yet and try to use a laptop as a source just to test the device. HSBS-demos are fine - the PJ does make one picture of two and syncs 3D glasses provided that I turn on the corresponding PJ mode manually. I have a problem running HOU-demos - even if I switch to top&bottom-mode on the PJ, it doesn't want to sync the picture and the glasses as well. I tried different settings (onboard is the latest firmware) - still nothing. So, my question: is it normal or do I have to get a new device? Can someone of RS49U owners run HOU-material on a laptop connected to the PJ and see if it is the same? I guess a regular 3D-BD should be recognized by the PJ and converted into the corresponding mode (HSBS or HOU) automatically. Unfortunately, I have no opportunity to check that right away. Any assistance provided would be appreciated.

Last edited by BUTT-HEAD-007; 08-25-2014 at 03:14 PM.
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post #2180 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 03:36 PM
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I know that I had a similar issue with 3D when I was using HDMI Port 1 on my X500. After talking with JVC they suggested to try HDMI Port 2 and that fixed all my issues. I don't know why that would make a difference, but it did. With all the HDMI issues this generation has had I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I just ended up using only HDMI Port 2 for everything just in case Port 1 had any other issues.

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post #2181 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 06:02 PM
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Do you guys find the network connection to be unstable? I use iRule and the only component I have problems with is the 4910. It's on-line maybe 50% of the time, the rest--mac mini, Onkyo 3009, Roku3, AppleTV are up 99% of the time.
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post #2182 of 2312 Old 08-25-2014, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jnelson Young View Post
Do you guys find the network connection to be unstable? I use iRule and the only component I have problems with is the 4910. It's on-line maybe 50% of the time, the rest--mac mini, Onkyo 3009, Roku3, AppleTV are up 99% of the time.
I could be wrong about this, but I think the latest firmware update was supposed to fix some of the networking issues. What firmware version are you running?
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post #2183 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 02:37 AM
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Curlyjive,

I bought the Darblet way before I bought the Oppo 103D. I am wondering how to hook up my system if I want to take advantage of the Darbee process in the Oppo 103D if I was to remove the Darblet to get rid of my right bar that appears on my screen.

I have many sources that goes to the Denon Pre-Amp and then HDMI Out from Denon Pre-Amp to the Darblet and then the JVC projector (HDMI 1).
The Oppo 103D is hooked to the JVC projector (HDMI 2 on projector and HDMI 1 Out on the Oppo 103D) and hooked to the Denon Pre-Amp for processing the sound (HDMI 2 Out on the Oppo 103D).

So if I remove the Darblet, I will have the HDMI Out of the Denon Pre-Amp to the Oppo 103D In HDMI Input and then Oppo 103D Out to JVC Projector (what is best, HDMI 1 or HDMI 2 ?). In that scenario, Denon Pre-Amp will handle all the sound and Oppo 103D will use the Darbee and process the video signal coming from my Pre-Amp ?

What about the blu-ray player in the Oppo 103D as I have a HDMI cable back to the Pre-Amp for sound ?

It is a bit confusing, can somebody help me ?

Regards

Denon AVP-A1HD with 3D upgrade, Denon POA-A1HD, Klipsch THX Ultra 2 7.2 speakers, Oppo BDP-103D, Toshiba HD-A35, Oppo DV-983H, Samsung Satellite Receiver, JVC DLA-RS6710, Stewart Screen 16/9 Studiotek 130 G3 100", Mac Mini as a media center, NAS Synology DS 1812+, Drobo Pro 800 storage unit, Sony...
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post #2184 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutaleZEN View Post
Curlyjive,

I bought the Darblet way before I bought the Oppo 103D. I am wondering how to hook up my system if I want to take advantage of the Darbee process in the Oppo 103D if I was to remove the Darblet to get rid of my right bar that appears on my screen.

I have many sources that goes to the Denon Pre-Amp and then HDMI Out from Denon Pre-Amp to the Darblet and then the JVC projector (HDMI 1).
The Oppo 103D is hooked to the JVC projector (HDMI 2 on projector and HDMI 1 Out on the Oppo 103D) and hooked to the Denon Pre-Amp for processing the sound (HDMI 2 Out on the Oppo 103D).

So if I remove the Darblet, I will have the HDMI Out of the Denon Pre-Amp to the Oppo 103D In HDMI Input and then Oppo 103D Out to JVC Projector (what is best, HDMI 1 or HDMI 2 ?). In that scenario, Denon Pre-Amp will handle all the sound and Oppo 103D will use the Darbee and process the video signal coming from my Pre-Amp ?

What about the blu-ray player in the Oppo 103D as I have a HDMI cable back to the Pre-Amp for sound ?

It is a bit confusing, can somebody help me ?

Regards

You will likely have loop problems if you try to run the output of the Oppo to the AVR and then back into the Oppo.

The best thing to do is run the sources you want to process through the oppo into its HDMI inputs, so can do that with two sources. Those inputs do have limitations: they can't accept 4K and I don't believe the can accept lossless audio, but check me on that.

I have my Directv box and a Ruku stick running into mine. Then HDMI 1 on the oppo out to the AVR. I tried splitting the oppo so HDM1 out went to the PJ and HDMI 2 went to the AVR for sound, but because I have a matrix switch in the mix, the JVC saw a loop and that didn't work.

Just make sure you use HDMI 1 for either both audio and video, or at least video because HDMI 2 does not have the same video options.
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post #2185 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 06:25 AM
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I've recently upgraded to a JVC x500r. Decided to go with a 2.35 screen. Just need to decide what size. Will be viewing from roughly 18ft/5m. Will be viewing blurays occasional 3D & HD sport. Sport will be 16:9. I'm thinking either 130" or 135". That would give me room to position my speakers away from the walls which will also be better for overall sound. Appreciate any advice. Apologies if I've posted in the wrong thread.
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post #2186 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 09:23 AM
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I've recently upgraded to a JVC x500r. Decided to go with a 2.35 screen. Just need to decide what size. Will be viewing from roughly 18ft/5m. Will be viewing blurays occasional 3D & HD sport. Sport will be 16:9. I'm thinking either 130" or 135". That would give me room to position my speakers away from the walls which will also be better for overall sound. Appreciate any advice. Apologies if I've posted in the wrong thread.
I recently got the x500 and ended up with a 133" 235 screen (approx same distance as your 18ft). You will not be disappointed with the screen size. I use the zoom method to project to the screen.
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post #2187 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 01:26 PM
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I have a question about the digital Keystone correction. My installer had to move my projector off center a foot or so with a 13ft throw and mentioned that I could correct some vertical line issues using the digital keystone feature. Will this impact the image at all if I move it a tick or two? The only way I can look at it is using the shift grid and see the vertical lines. I can tell that the upper corners are a little wider than the lower so if I correct it using keystone it looks straight. I just would rather a small variance than sacrificing image quality. Thanks for all you experts' help.
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post #2188 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmie48 View Post
I have a question about the digital Keystone correction. My installer had to move my projector off center a foot or so with a 13ft throw and mentioned that I could correct some vertical line issues using the digital keystone feature. Will this impact the image at all if I move it a tick or two? The only way I can look at it is using the shift grid and see the vertical lines. I can tell that the upper corners are a little wider than the lower so if I correct it using keystone it looks straight. I just would rather a small variance than sacrificing image quality. Thanks for all you experts' help.

Off centre a foot or 2, wow that seems extreme. From all I have read using keystone has a negative effect on quality. I am curious why he could not put your PJ in the centre of the screen?

Do you mean vertical centre or horizontal centre?

James Reid:D

Last edited by cardoski; 08-26-2014 at 02:16 PM.
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post #2189 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmie48 View Post
I have a question about the digital Keystone correction. My installer had to move my projector off center a foot or so with a 13ft throw and mentioned that I could correct some vertical line issues using the digital keystone feature. Will this impact the image at all if I move it a tick or two? The only way I can look at it is using the shift grid and see the vertical lines. I can tell that the upper corners are a little wider than the lower so if I correct it using keystone it looks straight. I just would rather a small variance than sacrificing image quality. Thanks for all you experts' help.
What you are describing sounds like an alignment problem. You would be better off adjusting the alignment of the pj to the screen to fix this. Do not use keystone correction as it will degrade the image.
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post #2190 of 2312 Old 08-26-2014, 02:31 PM
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A little late to the party but I just bought a 4910u and am currently waiting for it arrive. It's replacing an Epson 8500ub that has served me well for the past 4 years. I find it's time to go to the next level and waiting for 4k to be affordable is becoming tiresome. Mainly I'm hoping for much improved black levels and a tighter pixel grid, which it seems by what I've read, is what I'll be getting.
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