Official JVC DILA-X500R / RS49U / RS4910U Owners Thread - Page 95 - AVS Forum
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post #2821 of 2850 Old 11-13-2014, 04:39 PM
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It's been pretty evident that sometimes the Darbee has issues. I know folks have managed to get it to work, but with the tools already in the 4910, I feel like getting your image to 99% using it on its own is not too far off to assume. The Darbee could improve sharpness a shade, but I have not once seen the need to put it back in my chain since I got the pj. Honestly, I already sold it If I had a 103D with it built in, I might experiment a little more with it but I don't, so that isn't an option at this point

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post #2822 of 2850 Old 11-13-2014, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KE_Houston View Post
Got my 4910 from Mike. Replaced my 4 year old JVC DLA HD950. Big improvement. But, I do have some issues with the unit.

It works great with Amazon Fire-TV and Direct TV, but, when I play BluRay discs thru my Oppo 93, there is lots of bulb flickering ( bulb is on High ). What could be the problem, any advise will be greatly appreciated.

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Oppo 93 > NAD M15HD>Darbee>25 foot HDMI>JVC. ( tried moving the Darbee closer to the Projector, it got worst ).
Start with just BD player direct to the projector. If that works fine, then add the NAD. If that works fine, then you have a decision to make regarding the Darbee.

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post #2823 of 2850 Old 11-13-2014, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkscherk View Post
Any chance of passing along a request to JVC to add a blanking feature? Would be nice to be able to blank the black bars totally when zooming. Not as much of an issue when watching the actual film, but lead-ins displaying on the floor and ceiling is a bit irritating. I used to have a Lumagen in the chain and that feature was darn nice to have. No more Lumagen for me.....so no more blanking!
Do keep in mind electronic blanking is not any darker than the black bars in a properly set up projector with the brightness setting set correctly. Both equal video black. If your brightness is not set correctly, then blanking is darker. electron blanking does not remove all light. In other words it is not the same as having no light projected on the screen. Only way to completely remove the light in the black bars is to physically mask the black bar and that would not be easy to do.

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post #2824 of 2850 Old 11-13-2014, 06:06 PM
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Or you could buy an anamorphic lens and not worry about them to begin with.

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post #2825 of 2850 Old 11-13-2014, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post
Or you could buy an anamorphic lens and not worry about them to begin with.
That is what I do.

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post #2826 of 2850 Old 11-14-2014, 02:43 AM
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I have a small issue in my RS-49U.
When the projector in stand by mode (red light) and I try to turn it on, usually it doesn't turn on unless I try 2 or 3 times. Sometimes it doesn't turn on at all (even from the button behind the projector), I have to cut the power and turn it back on, then it starts!

Any idea what's the problem?
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post #2827 of 2850 Old 11-14-2014, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamany View Post
I have a small issue in my RS-49U.
When the projector in stand by mode (red light) and I try to turn it on, usually it doesn't turn on unless I try 2 or 3 times. Sometimes it doesn't turn on at all (even from the button behind the projector), I have to cut the power and turn it back on, then it starts!

Any idea what's the problem?
It might have to do with HDMI issues with the other equipment that's attached. The first question is: Does it work reliably when nothing else is connected (all HDMI, etc. unplugged)? If not, then it's probably a defect that needs to be repaired.
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post #2828 of 2850 Old 11-14-2014, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamany View Post
I have a small issue in my RS-49U.
When the projector in stand by mode (red light) and I try to turn it on, usually it doesn't turn on unless I try 2 or 3 times. Sometimes it doesn't turn on at all (even from the button behind the projector), I have to cut the power and turn it back on, then it starts!

Any idea what's the problem?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
It might have to do with HDMI issues with the other equipment that's attached. The first question is: Does it work reliably when nothing else is connected (all HDMI, etc. unplugged)? If not, then it's probably a defect that needs to be repaired.
I guess the first question is, are you running the updated software? If so the next time that it does not want to start, unplug the HDMI cable, wait 15 minutes and then try to turn on. If it turns on, then HDMI issue somewhere in the system. If it does not turn on, schedule to send the projector in for repair. Also what BD player are you using and do you have deep color turned on?
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post #2829 of 2850 Old 11-14-2014, 12:16 PM
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Haven't had a chance to take my recently received 4910 out of the box (drywall goes up on Monday) but was wondering what the distance between the front of the lens and the center of the drop tube would be (using the recommended chief mount). Looking at the drawings online, it appears to be about 5", but was hoping someone had an exact measurement.

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post #2830 of 2850 Old 11-14-2014, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
It might have to do with HDMI issues with the other equipment that's attached. The first question is: Does it work reliably when nothing else is connected (all HDMI, etc. unplugged)? If not, then it's probably a defect that needs to be repaired.
Quote:
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I guess the first question is, are you running the updated software? If so the next time that it does not want to start, unplug the HDMI cable, wait 15 minutes and then try to turn on. If it turns on, then HDMI issue somewhere in the system. If it does not turn on, schedule to send the projector in for repair. Also what BD player are you using and do you have deep color turned on?
Thank you for your reply.
I haven't tried yet to turn it on without connecting any HDMI.
The software version is r1210.3, I haven't updated until now.
I'm using an HTPC which is connected to Yamaha AV Receiver then to the projector.
The color depth in the Intel Graphics settings is set to 32 bit.

I'll try what you have suggested and reply back.
Can you please suggest a RS-232 to USB cable?

Appreciate it
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post #2831 of 2850 Old 11-15-2014, 11:05 PM
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Does anyone else hear a faint clicking sound with the iris in auto mode? I need to be right next to the PJ with the sound muted to hear it. I've never heard it before tonight, but maybe it's because i've never been that close to it with the sound muting while playing a movie. Seems to happen when the iris hits the max open or closed point. You'd never hear it from a seated distance or with the sound playing.

I know you can hear the steps when adjusting it in manual mode, but I had though it was totally silent in auto operation.

Anyone confirm they can hear this too if you get right close to it with the sound muted and a movie playing that makes the iris work hard?


EDIT:

So it appears to be some kind of issue with the iris closing all the way down during a fade to black. There were a few times were the iris would seemingly get stuck trying to close all the way and chatter a bit. You could tell the screen did not go as dark either. Then it would work fine again an close all the way down and as usual. I'm hoping it is just a fluke and not an issue with the iris requiring repair.....

Anyone seen anything like this?

Last edited by curlyjive; 11-16-2014 at 01:15 AM.
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post #2832 of 2850 Old 11-16-2014, 02:27 AM
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The iris is a mechanical device so there will be some noise when it works. The only time I hear it is when it's first powering up. The projector must do some sort of systems check and it seems one portion of that is for the iris. It closes and opens fully. When it does this it makes some noise. Other than that I don't hear it in auto mode with normal material.

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post #2833 of 2850 Old 11-16-2014, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
Does anyone else hear a faint clicking sound with the iris in auto mode? I need to be right next to the PJ with the sound muted to hear it. I've never heard it before tonight, but maybe it's because i've never been that close to it with the sound muting while playing a movie. Seems to happen when the iris hits the max open or closed point. You'd never hear it from a seated distance or with the sound playing.

I know you can hear the steps when adjusting it in manual mode, but I had though it was totally silent in auto operation.

Anyone confirm they can hear this too if you get right close to it with the sound muted and a movie playing that makes the iris work hard?


EDIT:

So it appears to be some kind of issue with the iris closing all the way down during a fade to black. There were a few times were the iris would seemingly get stuck trying to close all the way and chatter a bit. You could tell the screen did not go as dark either. Then it would work fine again an close all the way down and as usual. I'm hoping it is just a fluke and not an issue with the iris requiring repair.....

Anyone seen anything like this?

I have read about certain situations that have confused the iris. In those cases the iris could be moving more than it should, opening and closing, not knowing what to do. You may have experienced one of those situations.

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post #2834 of 2850 Old 11-16-2014, 10:27 AM
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I have read about certain situations that have confused the iris. In those cases the iris could be moving more than it should, opening and closing, not knowing what to do. You may have experienced one of those situations.

I'm hoping that is all it is. This was the only night I have ever seen this. There were a few instances in How to Train your Dragon 2 that exhibited this and I tried the open fade to black in the 2nd Hobbit movie. Strange thing is rewinding and replaying those scenes I could see the iris appears to chatter and not close all the way down one one go round, but playing it again it would be ok. So it was not consistent.

You can visibly verify it is happening by looking at the lens sideways so you can see what the iris is doing. You can also see it on screen as fade to blacks are learning not fading as they should.

I also noted that manual position -15 is NOT ass far down as the auto iris can go. IT was almost like it was sometimes getting stuck at the -15 position and other times closing down to its true minimum which creates the true fade to black. Also interesting to not that several iris stops in manual mode do not mode the iris at all -14 to -15 does not move the iris at all.

Hoping this was a fluke. That somehow the iris was out of sync and that it is not a mechanical issue with the iris getting stuck. It was't like it closed to a point and started to grind or make some other sound like the motor controlling the iris was fighting a stuck point. You could see and hear it hit that point, make a slight click, and sort of bounce around a bit.

Here's hoping it doesn't need to go in for repair. Have there been reported cases of iris failure or needing repair?
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post #2835 of 2850 Old 11-17-2014, 10:39 PM
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That is what I do.
I'm struggling right now with whether I want to invest in a lens again. I had UH480 with a Mits HC5. Sold the lens and projector and moved to the X500. Was thinking I wouldn't need it anymore with thee shift and lens memory. Almost think it's going to degrade the image given what eshift3 can now do. But I can't help wondering if I wouldn't get a better, brighter overall image by putting a good lens back in the path....like a DC1 or Schneider???
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post #2836 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamany View Post
I have a small issue in my RS-49U.
When the projector in stand by mode (red light) and I try to turn it on, usually it doesn't turn on unless I try 2 or 3 times. Sometimes it doesn't turn on at all (even from the button behind the projector), I have to cut the power and turn it back on, then it starts!

Any idea what's the problem?
I have the 4910 model. From time to time, I have experienced the same problem of the unit not wanting to turn on. The only way that I have found to work is unplugging it and then connect it to power again. Does not happen often, but it does happen from time to time.
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post #2837 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkscherk View Post
I'm struggling right now with whether I want to invest in a lens again. I had UH480 with a Mits HC5. Sold the lens and projector and moved to the X500. Was thinking I wouldn't need it anymore with thee shift and lens memory. Almost think it's going to degrade the image given what eshift3 can now do. But I can't help wondering if I wouldn't get a better, brighter overall image by putting a good lens back in the path....like a DC1 or Schneider???
You probably would get a better image with one of those lenses. Of course for the price of a DC1 or Schneider lens and a RS4910, you could get a Sony VW600 - that would get you 4K and a much brighter image, with no possible lens issues. Just say'n.

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post #2838 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicoff View Post
I have the 4910 model. From time to time, I have experienced the same problem of the unit not wanting to turn on. The only way that I have found to work is unplugging it and then connect it to power again. Does not happen often, but it does happen from time to time.
Next time it does this, rather than unplugging power, unplug HDMI. Wait 10 minutes and then try to power on the projector. If it works, then the issue is an HDMI compatibility problem and at least you know where to look for the problem.
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post #2839 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicoff View Post
I have the 4910 model. From time to time, I have experienced the same problem of the unit not wanting to turn on. The only way that I have found to work is unplugging it and then connect it to power again. Does not happen often, but it does happen from time to time.
This is exactly what is happening to me. Maybe once every 10-15 times.
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post #2840 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
You probably would get a better image with one of those lenses. Of course for the price of a DC1 or Schneider lens and a RS4910, you could get a Sony VW600 - that would get you 4K and a much brighter image, with no possible lens issues. Just say'n.
Well...I already own the curved screen so image distortion isn't much of an issue. I'd also only buy the lens used which saves a ton of money and I bought the X500 for a good price as well so total cost is still only about 60% of what a VW600 is.
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post #2841 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
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Well...I already own the curved screen so image distortion isn't much of an issue. I'd also only buy the lens used which saves a ton of money and I bought the X500 for a good price as well so total cost is still only about 60% of what a VW600 is.

Makes sense, if you can find a good used lens.

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post #2842 of 2850 Old 11-18-2014, 03:34 PM
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I'll have a Panamorph UH480 for sale soon at a great price. If you're interested let me know.
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post #2843 of 2850 Unread 11-18-2014, 04:53 PM
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Calibration :

What would you recommend :

Option 1 : Let professional ISF tech calibrate my new 4910 ( $400.00 or so )

Or

Option 2 : Invest in CALMAN CONTROL WITH X-RITE I1DISPLAY PRO ($499.00)

I see that Option 2 will let me calibrate the unit every 100 HRs or so or every time I change the bulb. And can also calibrate my other flat panel TV's. My biggest scare is, how hard is it to do DIY calibration. Any quick tips?

Thank You.
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post #2844 of 2850 Unread 11-18-2014, 05:38 PM
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Buying the hardware and doing the calibration yourself will be quite frustrating until you get an idea of what to do. It takes a bit of fiddling and time to get your head wrapped around what controls do what. In addition to how each control interacts with other controls. If you have the time and patience, doing it yourself is very rewarding. CurtPalme.com has a very good beginners calibration guide.

If you want to make it very simple, get the hardware you listed, add a Lumagen processor and the auto-calibrate add-on for your software. This will be fair amount more money, but will yield the best results. I have a Lumagen 2041 processor, i1 D3 meter and Chromapure. Results after a 729 point calibration is nothing short of stunning. Always puts a smile on my face.
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post #2845 of 2850 Unread Yesterday, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KE_Houston View Post
Calibration :

What would you recommend :

Option 1 : Let professional ISF tech calibrate my new 4910 ( $400.00 or so )

Or

Option 2 : Invest in CALMAN CONTROL WITH X-RITE I1DISPLAY PRO ($499.00)

I see that Option 2 will let me calibrate the unit every 100 HRs or so or every time I change the bulb. And can also calibrate my other flat panel TV's. My biggest scare is, how hard is it to do DIY calibration. Any quick tips?

Thank You.
The basics are not too complicated. You can learn them in a weekend of dedicated experimentation. To get good at it takes practice. Even now, I set aside a whole afternoon for a tune up. And I still bring a pro in every year or two, because he does it every day, and captures nuances that I can't.

So unless you either have more free time than money, and/or you want a new hobby, going with a professional is worth considering. It all depends. If you like to mess around with this stuff (like many of us do) it can be fun. If you prefer to take your car to a car wash, hire a pro.

Or another car metaphor.... It's kind of like replacing the suspension on your car: It's not rocket science, but it requires investing in some tools, and learning some new skills, and not being good at it for a while. You can save yourself money if you DIY, but you will spend time and brain energy in the process -- and if you get it wrong, you would have been better off not doing it, at all.

But this is not the best thread for the discussing. If you are leaning towards DIY, jump into the calibrations DIY threads and read a few, to get a flavor for the process.

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Quote:
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Calibration :

What would you recommend :

Option 1 : Let professional ISF tech calibrate my new 4910 ( $400.00 or so )

Or

Option 2 : Invest in CALMAN CONTROL WITH X-RITE I1DISPLAY PRO ($499.00)

I see that Option 2 will let me calibrate the unit every 100 HRs or so or every time I change the bulb. And can also calibrate my other flat panel TV's. My biggest scare is, how hard is it to do DIY calibration. Any quick tips?

Thank You.

Option 2 is what I did, very happy with that decision. There are tutorials out there,it is not so hard to learn. Being able to dial in your machine every 500 hrs is worth the time money and effort.

James Reid:D
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Originally Posted by KE_Houston View Post
Calibration :

What would you recommend :

Option 1 : Let professional ISF tech calibrate my new 4910 ( $400.00 or so )

Or

Option 2 : Invest in CALMAN CONTROL WITH X-RITE I1DISPLAY PRO ($499.00)

I see that Option 2 will let me calibrate the unit every 100 HRs or so or every time I change the bulb. And can also calibrate my other flat panel TV's. My biggest scare is, how hard is it to do DIY calibration. Any quick tips?

Thank You.
Most calibrators will charge about half that price for tune-ups going forward. There is also the issue of accuracy depending on the equipment. Something like a Jeti 1211 (which runs $7-10K) which some calibrators use is going to be more accurate than the I1. Kris Deering fairly recently switched to the Jeti so he could probably give some good input on it. There is also this discussion in the calibration forum.

I've been using Chad B as my calibrator and will have him out about every 500 hours or so. He did a great job on my RS4810.


Last edited by DavidHir; Yesterday at 10:58 AM.
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post #2848 of 2850 Unread Yesterday, 01:57 PM
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Option 2 is what I did, very happy with that decision. There are tutorials out there,it is not so hard to learn. Being able to dial in your machine every 500 hrs is worth the time money and effort.
Chromapure for Dummies makes using that software pretty easy. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322


Print it out as a step by step reminder on how to do it every couple hundred hours !
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Thank You Very Much for all the feed back from " pdxfj, Nathan, Cardoski, David & Craig. I am leaning towards Option 2. I think in the long run, this will be a good investment and nice hobby.

Once again thanks for the great advise.

Happy Holidays.
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post #2850 of 2850 Unread Today, 11:27 AM
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I have read about certain situations that have confused the iris. In those cases the iris could be moving more than it should, opening and closing, not knowing what to do. You may have experienced one of those situations.
I think it was a fluke. I tested it again tonight and it was fine. I did notice some oddities that I assume are just part of the quirks of this model.

For example, if you run the same fade to black scene over and over, the iris may react a little differently each time and sometimes it depends where you start from..making sure the play menu has a chance to fade after hitting play. ON the fade to black t the end of the second Hobbit, most of the time the iris would hit it's position that would equate to -15 if you were to set it manually then quickly and silently move to its most closed position ( you can't actually close the iris that much using the menu). Every once in a while it would hit the -15 point make a slight noise like it was confused and then close all the way. However if i ran it through scenes where the iris was very busy is was quite as a mouse, good examples are credit scenes.


One other thing I noticed is that if you switch to manual iris mode and close it all the way down sometimes clicking between -15 and -14 the iris does not move at all. But if you open it all the way back up and then close it back down again there is definite step between -15 and -14. It's is made even trickier because of the delay in response to the remote on this model. But it does seem that if you just hold down the remote to close the iris all the way instead of one click per step, it can get a bit confused even in manual mode and -15 to -14 shows no movement at all. If you open it all the way up and close it again, eventually it will go back to "normal"


So I think it is just a quirk of the iris that I just happened to be crazy enough to notice and not an actual issue. It is interesting to note that in auto mode the iris can close further than the -15 step....this is what really gets you the great fade to black!
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