Official JVC DLA-X700R / RS57U Owners Thread - Page 46 - AVS Forum
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post #1351 of 1937 Old 03-06-2014, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Yes, it looks great on my RS57. I'll have to try the settings you suggest.

BTW, I have the old burned copy. You aren't suggesting the retail version is any different are you?

They're the same kibbles & bits. wink.gif

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post #1352 of 1937 Old 03-07-2014, 12:59 PM
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please is there not any one WHO has experienced this the cmd low stutters in some clips but if I rewind and pause take it off and put it back on it is playing the way it should i may have a defective unit
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post #1353 of 1937 Old 03-07-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kenneth245 View Post

please is there not any one WHO has experienced this the cmd low stutters in some clips but if I rewind and pause take it off and put it back on it is playing the way it should i may have a defective unit

I've been using CMD "low" on video content and the occasional movie (like Gravity). I have not noticed any such stuttering.

At one point I DID see stuttering on a PVR'd show, The Grammys. I thought maybe it was a glitch in the CMD but when I turned of CMD the same stuttering occurred at the same points, hence I concluded it was on the source.
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post #1354 of 1937 Old 03-07-2014, 04:35 PM
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Does anybody know the IR code to toggle eShift on and off? i know there is a code to access the MPC menu, but would prefer a direct control over eShift. Thanks in advance!

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post #1355 of 1937 Old 03-07-2014, 05:52 PM
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There is no remote code; only RS232/IP direct control of eShift using an Android or iPad as a remote.

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post #1356 of 1937 Old 03-12-2014, 01:13 PM
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I recently set up my 900 and to my surprise there was no remote button for anno. This was a problem for my 66 as well, but I used an extra remote I had from the previous generation projector which had a direct access to it. Tired that remote again this time and the code in the remote doesn't work. navigating the menus to activate my lens is a pain. Any work around. On a lighter note, i love the black levels and color from the 900. Couldn't believe it but this is the first of my yearly upgrades that I actually feel was worth it.

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post #1357 of 1937 Old 03-12-2014, 03:45 PM
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I will post this in the Official Steward thread, but wanted to post here as well.

I am buying the X700 and was ready to go for the StudioTek 130 to go with it, but now Stewart is recommending the Firehawk G4 (to my dealer for me) and I have no idea why, not getting any feedback.

JVC X700
13.5-14' throw
12-13 seating distance
106" x 53" CIA screen
light controlled room

I was under the impression that the G4 was for rooms with ambient light.

Any thoughts appreciated.
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post #1358 of 1937 Old 03-12-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsteak View Post

I will post this in the Official Steward thread, but wanted to post here as well.

I am buying the X700 and was ready to go for the StudioTek 130 to go with it, but now Stewart is recommending the Firehawk G4 (to my dealer for me) and I have no idea why, not getting any feedback.

JVC X700
13.5-14' throw
12-13 seating distance
106" x 53" CIA screen
light controlled room

I was under the impression that the G4 was for rooms with ambient light.

Any thoughts appreciated.

For a dedicated room with ambient light control, I would not go with a G4, unless you told me that you wanted to do a lot of lights on viewing. I would go with the ST130. Does not make sense to go with the G4. It is not like you are pairing the screen with a projector with poor contrast.

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post #1359 of 1937 Old 03-13-2014, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsteak View Post

I will post this in the Official Steward thread, but wanted to post here as well.

I am buying the X700 and was ready to go for the StudioTek 130 to go with it, but now Stewart is recommending the Firehawk G4 (to my dealer for me) and I have no idea why, not getting any feedback.

JVC X700
13.5-14' throw
12-13 seating distance
106" x 53" CIA screen
light controlled room

I was under the impression that the G4 was for rooms with ambient light.

Any thoughts appreciated.

I would ask Stewart for their rationale on recommending the G4. Do they have all the facts about your room and projector?
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post #1360 of 1937 Old 03-13-2014, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

For a dedicated room with ambient light control, I would not go with a G4, unless you told me that you wanted to do a lot of lights on viewing. I would go with the ST130. Does not make sense to go with the G4. It is not like you are pairing the screen with a projector with poor contrast.

Greetings,

I am with Mike, I have the ST-130 G3 mated with the 4910 and the combination works very well.


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post #1361 of 1937 Old 03-13-2014, 09:04 AM
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Definitely an ST130 for that setup.

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post #1362 of 1937 Old 03-13-2014, 09:54 AM
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I would ask Stewart for their rationale on recommending the G4. Do they have all the facts about your room and projector?

They do now! Although they still said the G4 would work great, they said if I truly wanted a pure picture, the 130 was the ticket. Thanks for the feedback everyone.
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post #1363 of 1937 Old 03-13-2014, 12:15 PM
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They do now! Although they still said the G4 would work great, they said if I truly wanted a pure picture, the 130 was the ticket. Thanks for the feedback everyone.

If you can control light I always think a white screen - especially the ST 130 - is the best. I'd rather have my ST 130 wash out a little the few times I watch with some lights on, and then look it's best in the dark, than use a gray screen, which won't look as good IMO overall.

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post #1364 of 1937 Old 03-14-2014, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Parys View Post

I recently set up my 900 and to my surprise there was no remote button for anno. This was a problem for my 66 as well, but I used an extra remote I had from the previous generation projector which had a direct access to it. Tired that remote again this time and the code in the remote doesn't work. navigating the menus to activate my lens is a pain. Any work around. On a lighter note, i love the black levels and color from the 900. Couldn't believe it but this is the first of my yearly upgrades that I actually feel was worth it.

I just put an order in for a RS57U and this is something that I am concerned about. I have an anamorphic lens on a Cineslide sled and and I was wondering how to manually engage the vertical stretch on the projector without having to go into the menu's every time. Reading through the manual it didn't give the impression there was an easier way to engage your lens and stretch the picture. On my current projector (a Mitsubishi 9000HC) I have a format button on the remote that will switch between picture formats (16:9, 4:3, Anamorphic stretch, ect.). Has anyone got experience with this application with the RS57?
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post #1365 of 1937 Old 03-15-2014, 02:47 PM
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I have been enjoying my RS57 - up to 280 hrs. However, in the last week, I have had two lockups during startup - no light being displayed on the screen & would not turn off via remote so I had to unplug and re-plug. The most recent incident prior to startup it was showing 1080p60 (Netflix via my Oppo/Radiance). When started it up, there was a Blu-ray in the Oppo which would have been displaying 1080p24 if it had started up.

Is anyone else having lockups during startup?

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post #1366 of 1937 Old 03-15-2014, 08:37 PM
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Hi all. Enjoying my new x900, but have a few questions for the experts. I followed the great instructions on how to focus the projector by turning off the 4k eshift and removing the patterns, while displaying a pattern from my ps3. Works great and it is now focused very sharp. when i am up close I can clearly see the pixels. Questions #1 I am interested in what you all are doing? do you prefer to keep eshift off and have the most defined picture or do you put on eshift and tune to soften up the image? Also querstion number #2. I read in the manual that CMD softens the image, while removing artifacts from quickly moving images. Do you prefer to keep CMD off or low. Finally, Do you prefer to use Clear Black off, low or high?

thanks,
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post #1367 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Parys View Post

Hi all. Enjoying my new x900, but have a few questions for the experts. I followed the great instructions on how to focus the projector by turning off the 4k eshift and removing the patterns, while displaying a pattern from my ps3. Works great and it is now focused very sharp. when i am up close I can clearly see the pixels. Questions #1 I am interested in what you all are doing? do you prefer to keep eshift off and have the most defined picture or do you put on eshift and tune to soften up the image? Also querstion number #2. I read in the manual that CMD softens the image, while removing artifacts from quickly moving images. Do you prefer to keep CMD off or low. Finally, Do you prefer to use Clear Black off, low or high?

thanks,
Jim

Most people are going to leave e-shift on and use the MPC settings at a modest amount. The e-shift doesn't actually soften the image. It only appears that way with text based images because the pixel edges aren't as well defined anymore. With actual video content it will actually increase the perception of sharpness because you're quadrupling the pixel density. Add in some MPC processing (sharpening) and the moving image should look noticeably sharper.

The CMD also shouldn't decrease the perceived sharpness of the image. What it does is create new frames in between the source frames to give better motion resolution. This should result in a smoother moving image with better motion detail (resolution). Clear black is similar to Darbee Darblet processing, in that, it enhances contrast within an image. It creates more distinct edges between bright and dark pixels and this forces our eyes into thinking the image looks sharper.

Personally, unless you really really like what CMD does to the image I would leave it off as I'm not a fan of any frame interpolation implementation. I would, however, leave e-shift on with modest MPC settings and use clear black in low. Those are the settings I'd personally use, but set them to what you think looks best.

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post #1368 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisBP View Post

I have been enjoying my RS57 - up to 280 hrs. However, in the last week, I have had two lockups during startup - no light being displayed on the screen & would not turn off via remote so I had to unplug and re-plug. The most recent incident prior to startup it was showing 1080p60 (Netflix via my Oppo/Radiance). When started it up, there was a Blu-ray in the Oppo which would have been displaying 1080p24 if it had started up.

Is anyone else having lockups during startup?

Yes. A friend has a RS49 and has experienced the same thing as you describe. It's the main reason I didn't switch over from the VW95 this year. It sounds like the new JVCs throw an amazing picture and would destroy my 95 in many (but not all) ways and I'd love to upgrade it, but the idea of having any issues like this held me back. I'm continuing to monitor the forums for any type of firmware update that may address this and will reconsider it then, although we are already only about 6 months away from CEDIA 14.
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post #1369 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 09:31 AM
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I would leave Clear Black OFF and use Darbee processing if you have it instead. I will go more into detail on this in my upcoming review. As for e-shift it is a matter of taste and whether you see a perceived increase in picture quality. If you are going to use e-shift though, I would suggest using an outboard source to scale to 4K if you can. Again, I will get into this in my review.

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post #1370 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 11:47 AM
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interesting...

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post #1371 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

I would leave Clear Black OFF and use Darbee processing if you have it instead. I will go more into detail on this in my upcoming review. As for e-shift it is a matter of taste and whether you see a perceived increase in picture quality. If you are going to use e-shift though, I would suggest using an outboard source to scale to 4K if you can. Again, I will get into this in my review.

Interesting. I've gone the opposite way. I have a Lumagen 2041 that offers Darbee processing and 4K upscaling. (This allowed me to take my previous Darbee Darblet
out of my system). In shoot outs with the Darbee I'm actually preferring the clear black in some ways and it tends to be my go-to image enhancement. I also prefer my JVC RS57's upscaling to the Lumagen's 4K upscaling. (Clear BLack I'm quite sure is not artifact-free, but I generally like what it does on good source material).
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post #1372 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

I would leave Clear Black OFF and use Darbee processing if you have it instead. I will go more into detail on this in my upcoming review. As for e-shift it is a matter of taste and whether you see a perceived increase in picture quality. If you are going to use e-shift though, I would suggest using an outboard source to scale to 4K if you can. Again, I will get into this in my review.

Are you getting closer to a release date Kris? wink.gif

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post #1373 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 07:45 PM
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I also wanted to mention the damnedest thing: I had my RS57 calibrated the day before I left on my current holiday.
I had not played to much with the various MPC settings yet, just left them on default 50/50/50 and NR turned off.

My calibrator wanted to check out what the MPC settings were doing and he ran various test patterns, resolution, motion etc. sliding any of the faders fully up or down, we could detect no difference at all. He concluded that either the controls weren't working or they simply didnt do anything at all.

And I seem to recall something similar about the lack of visible MPC effects from someone else in one of these threads.

I don't know what to think of this. Certainly the 3 MPC steps on my previous RS55 altered the image distinctly.

Has anyone here played much with the settings and found they actually do something?
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post #1374 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 10:03 PM
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I posted this scenario in the CIH forum but figured other RS57 owners might know the answer as well. I got the projector mounted to the ceiling and the screen on the wall today (144" BD Zero Edge 2.35:1), everything looks great.... but...

I can't seem to get the 2.35:1 image correct. I zoom the image out so that it meets the edges of the screen horizontally but it does not meet the top and bottom, I am still left with small black lines there (roughly 1"). 16:9 looks fine, zoomed in so the image is to the top and bottom and obviously the sides could be "off" and you would never notice with the pillarboxing.

I think the screen is centered horizontally to the screen (or is very, very close) and I am not using any horizontal shift when doing this (I centered the lens using the menu and then only used vertical shift). My projector is about 2" higher than the top of the screen. Does the projector need to be at or below the top of the screen vertically in order for this to work properly? I could get a longer extension column if needed.

Also, a secondary issue is recalling the lens memories. Why does it seem that the shifts don't go back exactly correctly when recalling the lens memory positions? It's not as noticeable when I'm not using horizontal shift but seems like the vertical doesn't return exactly to the stored position either.

Anyone have any ideas? I am using at PRG-UNV mount so I've adjusted the pitch and roll to have it correctly aligned. I've verified with my level that the screen is mounted level. I guess the projector could be slightly swiveled on the extension column (it looks like it's aligned parallel) but I don't even know if that would cause what I'm seeing.

Very frustrating trying to get it perfect.

Thanks.
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post #1375 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnLew View Post

I posted this scenario in the CIH forum but figured other RS57 owners might know the answer as well. I got the projector mounted to the ceiling and the screen on the wall today (144" BD Zero Edge 2.35:1), everything looks great.... but...

I can't seem to get the 2.35:1 image correct. I zoom the image out so that it meets the edges of the screen horizontally but it does not meet the top and bottom, I am still left with small black lines there (roughly 1"). 16:9 looks fine, zoomed in so the image is to the top and bottom and obviously the sides could be "off" and you would never notice with the pillarboxing.

I think the screen is centered horizontally to the screen (or is very, very close) and I am not using any horizontal shift when doing this (I centered the lens using the menu and then only used vertical shift). My projector is about 2" higher than the top of the screen. Does the projector need to be at or below the top of the screen vertically in order for this to work properly? I could get a longer extension column if needed.

Also, a secondary issue is recalling the lens memories. Why does it seem that the shifts don't go back exactly correctly when recalling the lens memory positions? It's not as noticeable when I'm not using horizontal shift but seems like the vertical doesn't return exactly to the stored position either.

Anyone have any ideas? I am using at PRG-UNV mount so I've adjusted the pitch and roll to have it correctly aligned. I've verified with my level that the screen is mounted level. I guess the projector could be slightly swiveled on the extension column (it looks like it's aligned parallel) but I don't even know if that would cause what I'm seeing.

Very frustrating trying to get it perfect.

Thanks.
-john

It sounds like the issue is that you're using your 2.35:1 screen with a movie that has an aspect ratio wider than 2.35:1. Most likely the movie you're watching is 2.40:1 or 2.37:1 or something close to that but a higher number than 2.35:1. In this case, if the movie is more than 2.35:1 you're still going to have black bars. If the black bars bother you, you can always zoom even further out but you're going to lose a bit of the horizontal image.

As for the lens memories, JVC doesn't have the software perfect yet. I have a feeling the lens motor system doesn't have fine enough gradations to get it perfect every time. Most users are reporting that the memory is typically is little off and needs some light TLC to get it exactly where it needs to be. Sony's implementation seems to have similar issues too.

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post #1376 of 1937 Old 03-16-2014, 10:54 PM
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It sounds like the issue is that you're using your 2.35:1 screen with a movie that has an aspect ratio wider than 2.35:1. Most likely the movie you're watching is 2.40:1 or 2.37:1 or something close to that but a higher number than 2.35:1
It seems like if this is the case it should be reasonably easy to confirm that with the built in focus pattern (the one with green lines on black) since it has lines for where the black bars on 2.35:1 should start.

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post #1377 of 1937 Old 03-17-2014, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

I also wanted to mention the damnedest thing: I had my RS57 calibrated the day before I left on my current holiday.
I had not played to much with the various MPC settings yet, just left them on default 50/50/50 and NR turned off.

My calibrator wanted to check out what the MPC settings were doing and he ran various test patterns, resolution, motion etc. sliding any of the faders fully up or down, we could detect no difference at all. He concluded that either the controls weren't working or they simply didnt do anything at all.

And I seem to recall something similar about the lack of visible MPC effects from someone else in one of these threads.

I don't know what to think of this. Certainly the 3 MPC steps on my previous RS55 altered the image distinctly.

Has anyone here played much with the settings and found they actually do something?

Strange indeed...that must be me (and maybe some others). Turning eshift on and off makes a clear difference, but playing with the sttings below it, moving them from an extreme to the other, make ABSOLUTELY no difference...so I forgot about those and left them to their baseline setting...

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post #1378 of 1937 Old 03-17-2014, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris Deering View Post

I would leave Clear Black OFF and use Darbee processing if you have it instead. I will go more into detail on this in my upcoming review. As for e-shift it is a matter of taste and whether you see a perceived increase in picture quality. If you are going to use e-shift though, I would suggest using an outboard source to scale to 4K if you can. Again, I will get into this in my review.

Interesting because I just took my Darbee out of the chain and have ClrBlk ON and as Rich stated with good quality material it does a really great job for mid-low APL enhancement. I should also say part of my decision was also being tired of the pink flashing going on w/ the JVC since the Darblet is a hard 4:4:4 output and the conversion was not playing well with the the JVC/Lumagen combo.

I think the biggest improvement I see is getting grayscale and gamma set properly because the STD/User CP already provides a good base gamut (errors avg'ing less than 2-3dE most points… that being said a good 5x5x5 cube cal makes it look excellent!).

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post #1379 of 1937 Old 03-17-2014, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

It sounds like the issue is that you're using your 2.35:1 screen with a movie that has an aspect ratio wider than 2.35:1. Most likely the movie you're watching is 2.40:1 or 2.37:1 or something close to that but a higher number than 2.35:1. In this case, if the movie is more than 2.35:1 you're still going to have black bars. If the black bars bother you, you can always zoom even further out but you're going to lose a bit of the horizontal image.

As for the lens memories, JVC doesn't have the software perfect yet. I have a feeling the lens motor system doesn't have fine enough gradations to get it perfect every time. Most users are reporting that the memory is typically is little off and needs some light TLC to get it exactly where it needs to be. Sony's implementation seems to have similar issues too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

It seems like if this is the case it should be reasonably easy to confirm that with the built in focus pattern (the one with green lines on black) since it has lines for where the black bars on 2.35:1 should start.

--Darin

Darin, that is my worry as well. If the alignment pattern is indeed 2.35:1 and not 2.40:1 then there is definitely something amiss. The alignment pattern does not allow me to align the image so that it is aligned with the top/bottom and right/left either. When I align the sides of the alignment pattern I am left with small black bars on the top and bottom.
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post #1380 of 1937 Old 03-17-2014, 06:47 PM
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The focus pattern is 1.78:1 (the native aspect ratio of the micro display chip), but I think Darin is implying that a pair of the horizontal lines should represent where a 2.35:1 image , aka ~408 pixels from the top and bottom of the image, should be on an appropriate sized screen.

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