JVC Newbies Tips, Tricks and Recommendations Thread - AVS Forum
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:17 AM - Thread Starter
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The goal of this thread is to provide a central point for beginner's tips and tricks, Focusing mainly on the latest 2014 JVC projectors (X500, X700, X900, RS4910, RS57, RS6710).

Please add your own suggestions as replies and I will update this post as needed.

Manuals
  1. RS4910, RS6710 Manual: http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/manual/DLA-RS4910_6710_Operator_Man_2014.pdf
  2. Remote Control over RS-232 and LAN: http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/manual/RS_Model_2014_RS232_Command_Spec.pdf

Recommended reviews and articles
  1. HD Fever (in french, please use Chrome or Google translate if you can't read the language)


Calibration tips & tricks

  1. Use the REC709 test calibration disc (free) in order to calibrate your image without the use of a hardware meter. It should provide a good starting point. Full details are available here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration (thanks, cardoski)
  2. The following initial settings were recommended by Kris Deering (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1486011/new-range-jvc-2014/3360#post_24226082):
    "I set them up for user 1, standard color profile with all defaults for picture set to 0. Set the gamma to custom and 2.3 or 2.4 (depending on your preference for your room type). I then adjust the dark level in the gamma screen up to show digital 18 if you don't see it already (use basic pattern on the AVS 709 disc). I suggest Auto 2 for the dynamic iris and setting the manual iris to achieve your desired white level before changing to Auto 2. For grayscale I would suggest the 6500 preset. Everything else (e-shift, CMD, etc) is all up to your taste."


Firmware issues and updates
  1. The latest firmware for the 2013 JVC models are available here:

    http://pro.jvc.com/pro/attributes/PRESENT/soft/MK6Update20140107_Pro_bundled.zip

    In order to update your projector's firmware, you'll need an RS232 connection from a computer to the projector. The following two items have been reported to work well with the firmware update by many forum users, and they are also the items used by JVC in their upgrade manual:


    USB-->RS232 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-USA-19HS-Hi-Speed-Supports/dp/B0000VYJRY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391013465&sr=8-1&keywords=tripplite+serial+adapter

    RS232 Female-Female cable: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Modem-Cable-P450-006/dp/B000067SCH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1391013637&sr=8-1&keywords=tripp+lite+null+modem+cable
    (thanks, cardoski)



Lens, Focus and Sharpness tips & tricks

  1. The JVC models offer an image pattern to use while checking focus, zoom and lens shift. However, in the 2013 models, the e-shift is always engaged. e-shift is a technology that inherently "defuses" the image in order to give a more natural look without noticing the pixel structure. For setting focus, you are better off with having the e-shift turned off. How to solve this? Use a test pattern from one of the sources, such as the REC709 test disc linked above. You can then turn off the e-shift completely during setup. **TBD** find menu item that removes e-shift.
  2. Here are two examples of panel convergence. Upon close inspection, you can see pinkish and greenish lines close to the actual line.


  3. Useful information regarding alignment:
    http://www.avsforum.com/t/1458735/alignment-issues-with-sony-hw50es#post_22978766
    http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430236/offical-jvc-dla-rs4810-owners-thread/1080#post_23260671
    (thanks, scottJ)

3D

  1. The JVC 3D glasses have one button for on/off. One blink means the glasses are ON. Two blinks mean the glasses are OFF.
  2. For 2D viewing clear motion drive (basically a frame interpolation algorithm) is best set to low (or off if you really don't like this feature). HIGH will make everything seem like a soap opera. However, for 3D vieweing, I find HIGH to be a better setting that greatly reduces headaches. Watching The Hobbit, it felt almost as good as watching the HFR version in the Theater (except for the occasional smearing that is bound to happen).
  3. 2D to 3D conversion is not so great, but it's actually not that bad for live performances. I tried out STING live in Berlin with the conversion on and it looked great.
  4. Tip for people who use VLC from a Mac like me (until I can get my projector screen installed it's sitting next to my computer and projects to a wall smile.gif): F and G change audio sync, which you'll NEED if you don't have audio return channel in the change with a Receiver. I needed +250ms (I also have a darbee in the chain). CMD+ALT+right or left arrow keys move the film in short increments, CMD+ALT+SHIFT+arrow keys more it about 10 minutes. This is really useful when watching Side-By-Side 3D content, it's impossible to use the mouse.

CIH Screen tips
  1. Do you happen to have a 2.35 CIH screen and want to use it to watch your movies without an anamorphic lens? Great, the projector has motorized zoom. However, the vast majority of films are actually shot in 2.4 format. This creates a really annoying tiny black strip on the top and bottom of the image. In order to solve this, go to the Input Signal --> Mask, and choose a custom masking that completely crops a few pixels from the sides of the projected image. Now the image will fill your ENTIRE screen.

e-Shift (MPC)
  1. This might not work the same for all movies, but I have found that for older movies that were transfered from film to bluray (The Fifth Element is a great example), you tend to clearly see the artifacts in the image on a REALLY big screen(140" 2.35 in my case). By setting MPC to very high smoothing (around 80) and a decent amount of noise reduction, I am able to get a really clean image. It's ofcourse a bit softer and shout not be used as the default for all movies, but at least it is no longer grainy like in the original content.
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:36 AM
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http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration

Free calibration Disc, very handy.
I have an eye1display calibration meter I used and the Rec 709 disc has patterns to use with calibration software. I use HCFR which is free and comes with an excellent tutorial.As the bulb ages re calibration is a good idea. It does require the investment of a meter, but with the free software and the ability to calibrate as often as you like it is good value. Settings will only be good to the individual so I will not bother yo post them. But for a good basic calibration the Rec709 disc has a tutorial and patterns for non meter calibration.

James Reid:D
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:41 AM
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:00 AM
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Old 01-29-2014, 08:22 PM
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I'll have my RS57 by Friday (well..supposedly anyway).

I'll need to check it out and a newbie version of what to check and how could be very useful (even for me).

Off the top of my head I"ll want to check:

1. Convergence. - How? I seem to remember there's a convergence pattern in the service section of my current RS55. For later models, like this year's, didn't they move that into the more accessible user menu?
2. Focus - check for lens quality/focus. Now that this year's JVC has the stupid default to E-shift when using their focus menu, does anyone have tips on how to focus?

Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2014, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

I'll have my RS57 by Friday (well..supposedly anyway).

I'll need to check it out and a newbie version of what to check and how could be very useful (even for me).

Off the top of my head I"ll want to check:

1. Convergence. - How? I seem to remember there's a convergence pattern in the service section of my current RS55. For later models, like this year's, didn't they move that into the more accessible user menu?
2. Focus - check for lens quality/focus. Now that this year's JVC has the stupid default to E-shift when using their focus menu, does anyone have tips on how to focus?

Thanks.

Those are the two main things to check, convergence and focus uniformity. Just don't expect perfect convergence.It never happens with a three panel projector.

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Old 01-29-2014, 10:11 PM
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Tips on how to focus would be great to know as well?

How do most do this with a calibrator?
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

I'll have my RS57 by Friday (well..supposedly anyway).

I'll need to check it out and a newbie version of what to check and how could be very useful (even for me).

Off the top of my head I"ll want to check:

1. Convergence. - How? I seem to remember there's a convergence pattern in the service section of my current RS55. For later models, like this year's, didn't they move that into the more accessible user menu?
2. Focus - check for lens quality/focus. Now that this year's JVC has the stupid default to E-shift when using their focus menu, does anyone have tips on how to focus?

Thanks.

When aligning convergence I found it helpful to get up close to the screen. I adjusted between red and blue a bit at a time with the fine adjustment. You can isolate sections if a particular section is not lining up. Overall mine was good and needed little adjustment .

For focus I used the Rec709 disc I linked above, I turned off the internal focus pattern then the E-shift and used the focus pattern from Rec709 disc.

James Reid:D
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:18 AM
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I noticed on my particular RS57 that with no pixel adjustment at all my convergence was a little bit off. When I used the internal convergence pattern it looked like there was some slight scaling going on. It looked like an extra line of blue and red was bleeding onto another line but very lightly. After using the pixel adjust it became fully solid with no bleeding. I've seen this on an Epson 5020 as well, but only on one sample.

Anyone else notice this?
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:09 AM
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The two attached pictures show what I believe to be misconvergence of my rs57 unit. On the first picture you can see that the on the vertical green line there is a greenish hue line offset to the right of the vertical line. On the horizontal green line you see a blueish hue line shifted above the green line.

Looking at the focus image you can see a pinkish or Magenta line offset above the white border of the focus box.

Are these the types of aberrations I should be addressing w the pixel adjustments?
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sk576c View Post





The two attached pictures show what I believe to be misconvergence of my rs57 unit. On the first picture you can see that the on the vertical green line there is a greenish hue line offset to the right of the vertical line. On the horizontal green line you see a blueish hue line shifted above the green line.

Looking at the focus image you can see a pinkish or Magenta line offset above the white border of the focus box.

Are these the types of aberrations I should be addressing w the pixel adjustments?

I'm pretty sure that's it. I think I got really lucky with my RS4910 unit, I couldn't find such clear colorful lines even upon close inspection.
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoski View Post

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration

Free calibration Disc, very handy.
I have an eye1display calibration meter I used and the Rec 709 disc has patterns to use with calibration software. I use HCFR which is free and comes with an excellent tutorial.As the bulb ages re calibration is a good idea. It does require the investment of a meter, but with the free software and the ability to calibrate as often as you like it is good value. Settings will only be good to the individual so I will not bother yo post them. But for a good basic calibration the Rec709 disc has a tutorial and patterns for non meter calibration.

Thanks, cardoski. Can you link to the meter product page?
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Second post updated with tips.

How do I turn off e-shift? biggrin.gif
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:08 AM
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The fastest way to toggle eShift is to press the MPC button on the remote.

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Old 01-30-2014, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odedia View Post

Thanks, cardoski. Can you link to the meter product page?


http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
Scroll down the page, ignore the update version as it is for different software. If you scroll about half way down the HCFR tutorial starts.

http://www.xrite.com/i1display-pro

James Reid:D
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:07 PM
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I'm not sure where this recommendation (from post #2) came from:
Quote:
with the left side of the screen and right side of the screen having the exact same distance to the projector right down to the last millimeter

I don't see why that's necessary. A little bit of horizontal lens shift can correct for the PJ being off-center.
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
I don't see why that's necessary. A little bit of horizontal lens shift can correct for the PJ being off-center.

+1 - using some lens shift won't hurt.

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Old 01-30-2014, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post

I'm not sure where this recommendation (from post #2) came from:
I don't see why that's necessary. A little bit of horizontal lens shift can correct for the PJ being off-center.

This tip has nothing NOTHING to do with lens shift.

You need to obtain a perfect rectangle and in order to do this the lens needs to be completely parallel to the plane of the screen. When you do this, the image will likely need to be horizontally shifted in order to horizontally center it unless you managed to mount it absolutely at the horizontal screen center. You can use horizontal lens shift to do this. But you will get a better image optical quality wise if you perfectly center the image physically. A click or two of horizontal lens shift is OK. More and remount. I do not choose to explain tis in greater detail as I have posted about this many times. If you want to discuss, please just give me a call.

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Old 01-30-2014, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

This tip has nothing NOTHING to do with lens shift.

You need to obtain a perfect rectangle and in order to do this the lens needs to be completely parallel to the plane of the screen. When you do this, the image will likely need to be horizontally shifted in order to horizontally center it unless you managed to mount it absolutely at the horizontal screen center. You can use horizontal lens shift to do this. But you will get a better image optical quality wise if you perfectly center the image physically. A click or two of horizontal lens shift is OK. More and remount. I do not choose to explain tis in greater detail as I have posted about this many times. If you want to discuss, please just give me a call.

I understand, and agree. But unless I am misunderstanding it, the tip in post #2 says that the PJ needs to be perfectly centered ("to the millimeter") left/right. If the distances from the left & right of the screen to the PJ are exactly equal, that says the PJ is centered, but not that it is yawed properly. And it's the yaw that is critical, not the centering, which can be corrected with a touch of lens shift.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:16 PM
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You might be right. I apparently misread the tip. I would add however that many top flight projectors have no horizontal lens shift, like a Sim2 super lumis I just installed. A 60K projector.. This is done deliberately to force the installer to do exactly what the tip says. Normally it is possible especially if you add a cheap accessory to the mount called a lateral shift bracket. vertical lens shift is a necessity because most can't mount the projector at vertical screen center. If you think about it, the chips are longer horizontal than the chip height. 1.777777 to be very close to exact. this places the left right chip edges closer to the lens barrel edges than the top and bottom edges. This places the horizontal edges further away from the center lens sweet spot. There is no reason not to get it right but only for a perfectionist. that's why I said a click or two is alright but not more. The edge will be less sharp at the edge closest to the barrel. Sorry for misreading the tip.

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Old 01-30-2014, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post

I'm not sure where this recommendation (from post #2) came from:

Quote:
with the left side of the screen and right side of the screen having the exact same distance to the projector right down to the last millimeter

I don't see why that's necessary. A little bit of horizontal lens shift can correct for the PJ being off-center.

It is a bit ambiguous (should have said both left and right edges of pj equidistant from screen), but it doesn't say anything about centering; it means what Mark said, to avoid keystoning.

Noah
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

It is a bit ambiguous (should have said both left and right edges of pj equidistant from screen), but it doesn't say anything about centering; it means what Mark said, to avoid keystoning.

I don't think measuring distances is the best way to get the yaw correct. There's too many ways to screw that up. (You'd have to measure exactly perpendicular to the screen, and without a 15+ foot long carpenter's square, that's basically impossible. Or let's say you measured the distances from the left edge of the screen to the left edge of the PJ, and same for right, and got them exactly equal, that still doesn't tell you anything useful because the PJ could be both shifted left and yawed left, or both shifted right and yawed right, and the distances could still be exactly the same.)

And why bother, when it's easy to eyeball the projected image and adjust the yaw based on that.

What I'd like to find is a general (not JVC-specific) howto for projector alignment. Pictures showing problem alignments, and corrections needed. "If your image looks like this, rotate the PJ this way..." It can be pretty confusing when both yaw & roll are misaligned.

Anybody ever seen something like this? It certainly would have helped me set up my 4810 last year.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:53 AM
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I just finished my auto calibration with Lumagen XS. Now I just verified with AVS Calibration disk the "Black Clipping" pattern. I have "Brightness and Contrast" set to 0 and I only see tje black bars blinking starting from 20.

I'm curious what settings for "Brightness and Contrast" was set for other users here? Can you please post the settings?

Thanks
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:59 AM
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Probably a difference between PC (0-255) and TV (16-235) levels being sent to the projector. In the normal JVC menus under HDMI -> Input switch between Standard (16-235), Enhanced (0-255), and Super White (16-255) to see which one supports your calibration. Typically it's recommended to use Super White.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

Probably a difference between PC (0-255) and TV (16-235) levels being sent to the projector. In the normal JVC menus under HDMI -> Input switch between Standard (16-235), Enhanced (0-255), and Super White (16-255) to see which one supports your calibration. Typically it's recommended to use Super White.

Ok, I left this to auto and the Lumagen XS should normally take care of this. What is your settings? Brightness 0 and Contrast 0? What benefit has "Super White"?
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