I have the Spyder Pro4, and have run through the JVC autocal software a few times for my X500. (Spyder facing projector etc)
Im not convinced I have a better picture, and im thinking I haven't run the process correctly.
Can I reset setting to factory and start over, and is it possible someone can give me a basic how-to, as the manual is very basic and doesn't explain how, why , and what the results etc. mean?
Yes, I am a complete calibration noob, with no real understanding of calibration except that it should improve the factory picture.
While I don't have the newer JVC with autocal, I do run a Chromapure Pro/Lumagen set up with my older JVC X35 so I'm familiar with using autocalibration.
What I have found is that you still need a decent understanding of the basics so the video chain needs to be set up optimally to start with. In other words setting the basic controls such as brightness and contrast correctly will make a big difference to the end result. Likewise choosing the best base to work from in terms of colour temperature setting, etc can also make a big difference (though I'm not sure how the auto JVC works with regard to this).
You also need to be able to set the meter up correctly and talking of meters, I'm not sure how good the Spyder Pro 4 is (I seem to recall the older Spyders weren't that highly regarded). Even if you end up with perfect charts if the meter itself isn't accurate then it's a bit pointless. Maybe someone with experience of the Pro 4 can chime in here to confirm or not?
In short we are still some way from being able to just plonk a meter in front of a screen, press go and achieve perfection. That being said, with the initial basic set up performed first I get really decent results using Chromapure/Lumagen autocal along with an i1Pro D3 meter. It is certainly a lot quicker than spending hours manually adjusting all the settings.
The autocal feature isn't truly a "color calibration" piece of software. From what JVC has said, it really tries to get things back to the state they were at when the bulb was fresh. Basically it gets you back to the out of the box starting point in terms of color and gamma which is still is bit off from reference.
Am I better served either paying for a pro to calibrate for me (and every time post that it needs to be done), or trying to learn myself with software like CALMAN?
My gamma was all out of wack and with only the 2-point gamma control I could not meaningfully correct it -- in my case the JVC autocal took good care of flattening out my gamma to the default target 2.2(?) which I then adjusted for my target gamma.
So are you suggesting you need to do a first pass using the JVC Autocal, and then use other calibration software to finish it off? If so, can I reset my values, ive run the autocal a few times and im worries its all messed up.
If you know the basics on how to calibrate it's best to do it yourself instead of spending all that money on a pro. OOTB it's fairly accurate so it shouldn't take too long to get color and greyscale under control.
I only did this process with the autocal software once, but as I recall the first step was to download a file from the projector that contained the original internal values, so if you did this you might restore that file then do one round of autocal. Then you can further calibrate using Calman or free HCFR. In my case I used HCFR with my i1 Display Pro 3 to calibrate after the JVC autocal.
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