I can sum up my impressions of the FLD-A046 Cokin filter in one sentence. The blacks improve but at the expense of the whites.
Here are some test details:
* Plan A *
My plan was to take before and after shots with a canon G1 digital camera. I also was going to take a shot of my 27" toshiba for additional comparison. I had set up an account at www.photopoint.com
to share the photos.
I should start by saying that I am a complete novice at photography so it is very possible that my results are due to user error. But after 3 hours of fiddling with the camera, I found the color accuracy so poor, I have opted to tell my tale in words rather than present false visual data. No matter what I did, the G1 tended toward blue.
* Plan B *
My test was run with the VE test patterns and montage of images movie. I started with the settings of black level and contrast. No change was required to brightness or contrast, but the black level was noticeably blacker.
At the same time the top white box in the contrast pattern tended toward gray. This was more noticeable when I switched to the SMPTE color bar pattern.
I then went through the montage of images 3 times. On every image I would manually raise the filter and then lower it. The dark scenes were improved in my opinion. But the light scenes looked hazy like every day was overcast.
As far as color correction goes, there really wasn't any color shift. Bright colors went duller in light scenes and dark colors went darker in dark scenes due to the added "haze".
It comes down to personal preference whether one will like the FLD filter tweak or not. I wasn't thrilled with the compromise I had to make with my whites. But I'm not picky about my blacks anyway. It's all about relativity to me and when I watch a movie the blacks look black.
It has me wondering about my incoming grayhawk, though. Same compromise? We'll see.
I'm going to try a different digital camera. If it is any better, I'll post photos.
ps. Those who have been trying to get ahold of me, my e-mail address has changed. I am now a northpoint refugee, riding the 36k highway and using hotmail until my new DSL line is installed and my e-mail server is back on line.
The lumens rating on the Sanyo is very solid. But for most screens, it generates more than enough intensity.
On an 8 X 6 foot the peak intensity works out to 41.66 ft-Lamberts (2000 lumens / 48 square feet).
I don't think there is any reason to be brighter than 30 ft-Lamberts and anything down to 15 is exceptable. 30 ft-Lamberts might make the colors somewhat more dramatic than say 20 ft-Lamberts, but dark images will usually look better on the 20 ft-Lamberts projector.
The extra output will always help you overcome room lights, but the use of a non white screen can have the following benefits:
1. Bring the image intensity to a more reasonable level (25 ft-L or so)
2. Help give your image a higher contrast ratio if you are in a lightly colored or smallish room.
3. My favorite, if the screen is tinted say pink (or said differently: gray to blue and green, but white to red wavelenghts - dink 'bout it http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif
), you can accomplish 1 and 2 and color correct as well.
Anyway good luck,
The Mothership is now boarding.
Here's a link to a few snapshots:http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...995&a=12516104
Shots 1 and 2 are a reasonably accurate example of the color shift when using the FLD filter.
Shots 3 and 4 were meant to show the improvement in black level with the FLD. Unfortunately, the camera adjusted to the darker image in auto-mode so you end up with about the same picture. I included these for completeness, but I'll probably redo these two.
Shots 5 and 6 demonstrate the effect of the FLD on a well lighted still. This time I set the camera to manual mode and manually set the shutter speed so the effect of the FLD would not be erased. The result is close to what I see on my DIY blackout fabric screen, but not exact.
I have the LP340 and added the FLD filter two weeks ago. It has a definite improvement in bringing the reds back to normal. Before, the red of the banner on TLC was magenta (purple-red).
The bright florescent colors in cartoons are also more correct and less artificial looking. As for the blacks, everything is a bit darker, but that was not my reason for using the FLD. The purple-reds were annoying.
I bought the 62MM Tiffen glass filter and used a bit of electrical tape to attach it. In hindsight I should have gotten a slightly larger on (64mm) to fit on the zoom ring, but I'm satisfied with the look of it.
[This message has been edited by Jay C (edited 04-09-2001).]
As is my wont, I'll add my own experiences at the end of everyone elses: http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif
I'm projecting onto a relatively light grey DIY screen and went ahead and got a filter with the intent of trying it with my light grey and also with white eventually. On the grey screen I don't have any problem with the color... reds look red enough to me. My biggest problem is the blacks.
Well the filter improved the blacks *slightly* but everything else suffered. As everyone would expect since I'm using grey and a filter. Everything was just too dark and I think I screwed up by turning contrast up to compensate so white started clipping and everything just looked bad. Plus I swear there was this magenta haze over everything.
So, just in case anyone was thinking of trying a filter with a light grey screen, don't bother. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif
I'm not giving up on the filter yet, I'm hoping that white screen+FL-D will be better than the grey I have. The blacks aren't near black enough for my liking yet. They're tolerable, but I want to do better.
I'm afraid in the end I'll end up with a greyhawk, but not for awhile.
I thought someone mentioned that the cc10m filter melted.
How did you attach it, how long have you had it, and have you witnessed any distortion due to heat?
If you have a UHP bulb and a DLP (a common combo), try a DIY gray screen with a touch of pink added.
If you have 1300 lumens, an 80% gray only attenuates to an effective 1040 lumens. If you keep the ft-L high enough by keeping the area down, there should be more than enough white level.
|<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by buzz:
If someone wants I could try to post a picture....I have an old digital camera 640x480
I'll take you up on that. Post a picture. Or send it to my e-mail and I'll put it up in photopoint for you.
|<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by arrow:
Buzz sent me his pictures of his cardboard masking and fld mounting and gave me permission to post them. You can find them here:
Check the caption of the cardboard masking for more details.
Les and Buzz,
That projector is way too close to the wall. The first page says 2' you are at what, 1". Be very careful, as the heat will build up quickly. I have provided 2' from the back of mine at the loss of a few diagonal inches just for peace of mind.
Have to agree on the positioning... you're setting yourself up for problems. I know it can be inconvenient, but you should try and work something out so you have the minimum 2' the user guide suggests.
I'm forunate in that I have the laundry room right behind my viewing position so I have an entire room I don't heat cooling my projector. And it still get *very* hot to the touch when running. Well, it did, until I sent it back for an exchange due to focus problems. http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif