JVC Calibration Software V6 For 2015 Models (X9000,X7000,X5000,RS400,RS500,RS600) - Page 62 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1831 of 2077 Old 05-23-2017, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJHT View Post
Not sure I'm really converting.. Outputting HDR2020 from the source, my Lumagen Pro is sending SDR2020 (really fooling the projector), therefore it is really HDR2020 going to the JVC. Would I therefore use REC2020 and custom Gamma curves? Thanks.
If you are not actually converting but just sending hdr2020 labeled as sdr2020 then use a custom hdr gamma on the projector.
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post #1832 of 2077 Old 05-24-2017, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJHT View Post
Not sure I'm really converting.. Outputting HDR2020 from the source, my Lumagen Pro is sending SDR2020 (really fooling the projector), therefore it is really HDR2020 going to the JVC. Would I therefore use REC2020 and custom Gamma curves? Thanks.
You're not converting. All the Lumagen is doing is removing the HDR flag from the output signal, the signal sent is still HDR Rec2020, and you will still need an appropriate gamma curve either in the projector, or in the Radiance Pro, to correctly tone map that signal to your projectors peakY output.
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post #1833 of 2077 Old 05-24-2017, 05:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJHT View Post
Not sure I'm really converting.. Outputting HDR2020 from the source, my Lumagen Pro is sending SDR2020 (really fooling the projector), therefore it is really HDR2020 going to the JVC. Would I therefore use REC2020 and custom Gamma curves? Thanks.
If wooki is right, and you're just stripping the HDR metadata, then yes, use a custom gamma curve.

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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
1. Even when watching a lowish title, say 100% white is only 1200 nits, and using say a custom 400-600-4000, how does my 150 nit projector reproduces any absolute value in the hundreds, let alone thousands, of nits that the mixer wants me to see?
Well it's not. The curves first basically reduce everything by a multiplier (6-8 seems to be a good range), so now effectively, that 1200 nit title is 150 nits. Then the custom curves compress the highlights into a smaller region. So we follow the ST.2084 shape up to say 400 nits input (which would be about 50 nits output) and then compress the rest to fit the remaining available output of the projector.

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2. I think you've mentioned you only use one curve for all titles? Shouldn't for example a 4000 title looks very different from 1200 title? And if you could please answer this question because I can't quite figure it out: two titles, one 4000, one 1200, which one should look brighter if settings are not changed?
A key thing to remember is there's two ways to talk about the "brightness" of HDR video, there's the "nominal" or "most typical object" brightness (like faces, backgrounds, etc) and then there's highlight brightness. As far as HDR itself goes, in general it's assumed that 0-100 nits is the MTO region and should be about the same brightness (outside of artistic choices) across all movies, so the only difference between a 1200 nit title and a 4000 nit title is how bright the highlights can go. Remember that the HDR curve is technically absolute, so everything from 0 to about 75% (0 to 1000/1200 nits or so) will look the same on a Sony BVM (1200 nit) or a Dolby Pulsar (4000 nit) mastering monitor. The Dolby can just show brighter highlights.

So actors faces, and other common objects should look the same regardless of what mastering monitor they're played on, and should look about the same with a 1200 nit vs a 4000 nit curve.

The difference will come, for us and our limited brightness projectors, in that we have to compress the whole curve, and then decide how much room we leave for highlights. A 4000 curve leaves more room for highlights. It's actually kind of like calibrating SDR for 235 or 255, whether you save room for whiter than white or not.

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3. With the above brightness requirement that our projector can't seem to meet, and with owners of laser JVC stating HDR look much better with higher lamp brightness, shouldn't high lamp *always* be utilized for lamp based JVC in viewing HDR?
That's the great dilemma isn't it, and one you have to weigh the pros and cons of. On the one hand yes, you should calibrate with every last Lumen you can get out of your projector for HDR. However, there are down sides to running high lamp, higher black levels, more noise, less lamp life, so it's really something you need to look at and see if the added brightness for highlights is worth the trade offs.

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This is very helpful. My Oppo's HDR to SDR conversion has a default "target luminence" of 300 nits. Does this mean anything above 300 nits is 100% white? Do I understand correctly the higher this target luminence, the less crushed white I will have?
All else being equal, higher would be better here? TIA.
I've really got no idea what the Oppo control does.
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post #1834 of 2077 Old 05-24-2017, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJHT View Post
Not sure I'm really converting.. Outputting HDR2020 from the source, my Lumagen Pro is sending SDR2020 (really fooling the projector), therefore it is really HDR2020 going to the JVC. Would I therefore use REC2020 and custom Gamma curves? Thanks.
Yes, you would use 2020 and a custom gamma curve.
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post #1835 of 2077 Old 05-25-2017, 09:17 AM
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I saw in the first post there is a REC2020 color profile that doesn't engage the filter. Anyone using this or something else for HDR content? Might be nice to increase light output. Thanks. SJ
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post #1836 of 2077 Old 05-25-2017, 09:28 AM
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With your projector the drop in light output with the filter should be rather insignificant in the grand scheme (maybe 1-2 fL at most). I would stick with that unless you are really hurting for light.
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post #1837 of 2077 Old 05-25-2017, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
2. I think you've mentioned you only use one curve for all titles? Shouldn't for example a 4000 title looks very different from 1200 title? And if you could please answer this question because I can't quite figure it out: two titles, one 4000, one 1200, which one should look brighter if settings are not changed?
I just wanted to circle back to this. I spent a while last night refining my HDR calibration, running through Arve's tool. I wasn't really happy with how things looked the last time I watched a UHD disc. To the point, I made my 4000 nit curve, 100 nit peak white, 12.5 reference white, adjusted bbi to 0.005 and bbo as necessary so 77 was black. I think I ended up with a curve end slope of 0.6 to get a little more delineation in the highlights.

Then I checked out X-Men Apocalypse, as I was doing that, I was curious what the difference was. In sort, it was almost imperceptible. If I hadn't assigned the 1000 nit curve to a different gamma slot, and was able to switch back and forth, you'd never know which one I had selected.

So (not that I ever doubted him) I concur with Manni that there's really no point bothering with a different curve for 1000 nit titles, the difference just isn't significant. I must conclude therefore, that the difference between some 4000 nit titles and some 1000 nit titles that some are seeing, is either due to creative decisions by the film makers, or possibly a less than ideal calibration.
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post #1838 of 2077 Old 05-26-2017, 06:45 PM
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I did some testing with the new tone mapping of the Lumagen Pro into my JVC (2015/2016 model). I have about 80 nits peak. First I tried the SDR route with JVC Rec2020 gamut and normal gamma active plus tone mapping from HDR to SDR via Lumagen. That was a bad idea as the normal gamma and Rec2020 gamut are not compatible and the colours pretty off. That would require a 3D LUT calibration for SDR and Rec2020 via Lumagen first which I don't want to do for the time being. So I tested the Lumagen HDR to HDR mapping with a custom gamma curve on the JVC (the Dolby Vision curve "Manni" posted) and JVC Rec2020 gamut. And that worked very well as soon as I set the peak nits my projector ideally should have to the mastering value of the disc (1100 or 4000). A 4000 nits disc quickly shows up as too bright when 1100 is set and the other way around it's too dark. The other Lumagen parameters (shape,ratio etc.) have minor influence in this case so I left them at default values. The mapping gamma can be helpful to change image depth a bit when desired. The main difference to just using custom gamma alone with Rec2020 gamut is that I no longer feel a need to raise contrast on the projector for a brighter image or reduce the dynamic range on the Panasonic player for more shadow detail with dark discs (e.g. "Arrival"). The bright and dark discs look fine now once the nits are set to the mastering level. Maybe I was just lucky with the discs I looked at but I think each disc can be made to look right by setting a suitable nit level. I'm aware that a similar result should be possible with another custom curve better tailored to my projector and no Lumagen in between or a proper SDR chain and the Lumagen, but as a quick solution this really worked well for me so far.

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post #1839 of 2077 Old 05-26-2017, 09:38 PM
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Is the Dolby Vision curve a custom Arve or one that you can upload? I followed the links in the first post and keep going to part of a thread that doesn't have it to upload like some of the others. I'm in the same boat starting down the trail of configuring my Lumagen Pro to work with my RS600. Likely will need to create a LUT as Gordon mentions on the Pro thread. SJ
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post #1840 of 2077 Old 05-27-2017, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJHT View Post
Is the Dolby Vision curve a custom Arve or one that you can upload? I followed the links in the first post and keep going to part of a thread that doesn't have it to upload like some of the others. I'm in the same boat starting down the trail of configuring my Lumagen Pro to work with my RS600. Likely will need to create a LUT as Gordon mentions on the Pro thread. SJ
It's a curve you can upload created with the Arve tool and posted by Manni. When using the tool directly it would even be better, I think (more resolution of the curve) but I did not feel like spending a lot of time learning another tool.
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post #1841 of 2077 Old 05-27-2017, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mhafner View Post
It's a curve you can upload created with the Arve tool and posted by Manni. When using the tool directly it would even be better, I think (more resolution of the curve) but I did not feel like spending a lot of time learning another tool.
Can someone point me to it as the link in the first post seems incorrect or I missing something thanks. SJ
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post #1842 of 2077 Old 05-27-2017, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by SJHT View Post
Can someone point me to it as the link in the first post seems incorrect or I missing something thanks. SJ

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/attach...1&d=1489326402


Here it is.

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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Ok, so as promised I've tried to emulate a Dolby Vision Cinema curve.

I've set a target peak white of 106nits (that's peakY in Dolby Vision Cinema).

This is an approximation as I have no idea of the actual targets of DV Cinema, given that it's a different grade mastered to 48nits reference white 106nits (31fL for those still in the 20th century) peakY.

But using our content mastered up to 4000nits with ref white around 100nits, we can try to emulate it. It should work better for those with a dedicated room and no ambient light. Others might find it dull comoared to targeting a higher peakY in high lamp. I still have to compare the different options (DV emulation at 106nits, low lamp iris open at 140nits and max bright high lamp iris open at 200nits).

I attach a screenshot of the parameters in Arve's tool that should work very well for anyone able to set their peakY to 106nits. If you're a bit above or a bit below, it shouldn't really matter. The curve should work fine for 100-120nits peakY. However, you should check your black brightness parameter. 0.0165 is for my setup, to resolve down to 81 (illegal curve). You might need more or less that. The curve resolves up to 4000nits, so it's a universal curve.

The advantage for me is that I go from iris fully open (which gave me around 45000:1 native on/off and 140nits peakY) to iris at -6 which gives me around 60000:1 and 106nits peakY, so a lower native black floor and higher native contrast, as well as less DI artifacts.

The downside is a small loss of ANSI contrast, but that wasn't too visible in the quick tests I've done, and a loss of dynamic contrast (from 360000:1 to 230000:1), as with the DI the black floor is the same, only the white value changes, and it's lower in DV emulation mode, therefore less dynamic contrast in this mode.

I attach screenshots showing the contrast values, all taken with the DI off to show native on/off.

I have this saved in a DV Cinema user preset, and my former preset save into my HDR BT2020 user preset so I can easily switch between the two, each custom curve / iris setting is selected automatically. Both use low lamp.

So if you want to try this curve, ideally use the wip branch and copy the parameters in the first screenshot, except bb that you should adjust on your unit displaying the black clipping pattern and resolving down to level 81 (77 and below not flashing).

If you don't have the wip branch, then here are the parameters:

max brightness: 650nits
ref white: 100
hard clip: 4000nits
soft clip start: 275nits
soft end slope: 0.75
soft clip curve type: 0
soft clip gamma: 1

You can set the black point to resolve down to 81 using the brightness control in the player, even if it's not the best way to do so (best is use the wip branch and use bb to adjust the curve itself).

So if we all set peakY to 106nits and use this curve, we should all see roughly the same thing, taking aside on/off and ANSI contrast differences due to lamp and iris settings variation.

Please try it out and provide some feedback. I haven't done much checking because I need to re-run an autocal, but it looked pretty good here.

If everyone likes it, it could be a truly universal curve: one valid for all titles and for all setups (able to reach 106nits peakY or close). The good thing about this approach is that we simply have to set peakY to 106nits, set bb to resolve down to level 81, and off we go. There is no need for a different curve for each setup, and to mess with the parameters to adjust to your needs, but it's not necessarily the curve that would give the best results. It's an easy one-size-fits-all, it's not custom-made

I attach an untested low-res version for those who are still not using Arve's tool, so they can import it with the JVC Autocal software. This version doesn't use a bb parameter to make sure that I'm not raising black on your PJ, so you will have to set the black point manually, preferably resolving down to 81, not 68.
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post #1843 of 2077 Old 05-30-2017, 12:12 AM
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I setup a handful of curves with lovingdvd's speed guide and now I'd like to get the black levels dialed in.

I have a couple quick questions about using Arve's tool:

1) After I created the auto curve I did not save them to my pc, is there a way to pull them up into the Arve tool when that profile is loaded in the projector, or should I just start them over?

2) I'm a bit confused at step 15 of his guide. The bbi/bbo piece is confusing me. If I did "bbi .005" followed by "bbi .002" I'm not to sure what these mean? If they are hard values or if they affect another number...?

3) The guide says to have R.Masciola 77 as target black and 81 as barely visible. Do these R.Masciola numbers have nit values? I see percentages but what nit level is 77 and 81?

4) Do I have to redo this black level for each curve? Will it be the same on each curve?

5) Here is the result from my brightest curve, I see really long numbers after the decimals, do these look right?

Quote:
Spoiler!
Here is lovingdvd's Step 15:
Spoiler!
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post #1844 of 2077 Old 05-30-2017, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
I setup a handful of curves with lovingdvd's speed guide and now I'd like to get the black levels dialed in.

I have a couple quick questions about using Arve's tool:

1) After I created the auto curve I did not save them to my pc, is there a way to pull them up into the Arve tool when that profile is loaded in the projector, or should I just start them over?

2) I'm a bit confused at step 15 of his guide. The bbi/bbo piece is confusing me. If I did "bbi .005" followed by "bbi .002" I'm not to sure what these mean? If they are hard values or if they affect another number...?

3) The guide says to have R.Masciola 77 as target black and 81 as barely visible. Do these R.Masciola numbers have nit values? I see percentages but what nit level is 77 and 81?

4) Do I have to redo this black level for each curve? Will it be the same on each curve?

5) Here is the result from my brightest curve, I see really long numbers after the decimals, do these look right?



Here is lovingdvd's Step 15:
Spoiler!
bbi should be .005, which tells the projector that the input black level is .005 nits. bbo should be adjusted with the test pattern on screen until 77 disappears and 81 is barely seen. So adjust the number, load to projector, repeat until this is the case. 77 is .005. Once you figure out that number, it should be the same for any other curve you make, just put them in. Typically the number for bbo is lower than bbi.

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post #1845 of 2077 Old 06-01-2017, 08:14 PM
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I'm playing around with an X500 tonight and I noticed that while the gamma menu has the option to set the correction value to "import", I simply cannot find where in the v5 autocalibration software to send a send a gamma .jgd file to the projector. The import options only seem to be for color profiles or picture data files. I was looking to try out one of these custom gamma curves to see how well the X500 handles HDR. Any help? I'd rather ask here as the older v5 thread seems be to be dead and I didn't want to bump a dead thread. The v6 software doesn't work with the X500. I already tried.
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post #1846 of 2077 Old 06-04-2017, 10:53 PM
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Uploaded Manni's DV Gamma Curve, all I can say is "Wow!"
I love it and can play 4k UHD in low lamp mode now...fantastic!

Below is the shot using smart phone playing Kingsman in 4k, not a good scene to showcase but look how bright it is for a dim scene using low lamp with iris at -5

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post #1847 of 2077 Old 06-05-2017, 11:36 AM
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I am offended by your "subtitle language", potty mouth

If I agree with you then we will both be wrong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpyw View Post
Uploaded Manni's DV Gamma Curve, all I can say is "Wow!"
I love it and can play 4k UHD in low lamp mode now...fantastic!

Below is the shot using smart phone playing Kingsman in 4k, not a good scene to showcase but look how bright it is for a dim scene using low lamp with iris at -5



Which Manni's DV Gamma Curve you uploaded?
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post #1849 of 2077 Old 06-05-2017, 06:10 PM
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Which Manni's DV Gamma Curve you uploaded?
see post #1842 above

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post #1850 of 2077 Old 06-05-2017, 10:47 PM
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see post #1842 above
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post #1851 of 2077 Old 06-06-2017, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpyw View Post
Uploaded Manni's DV Gamma Curve, all I can say is "Wow!"
I love it and can play 4k UHD in low lamp mode now...fantastic!

Below is the shot using smart phone playing Kingsman in 4k, not a good scene to showcase but look how bright it is for a dim scene using low lamp with iris at -5

What size screen and what gain are u using?

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post #1852 of 2077 Old 06-06-2017, 08:24 PM
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What size screen and what gain are u using?
Screen size 120", Gain 0.93 matte white, OS Screen WF203

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post #1853 of 2077 Old 06-07-2017, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpyw View Post
Screen size 120", Gain 0.93 matte white, OS Screen WF203
Thanks same screen size I have but I find I have to run hdr in high lamp...I'll try the DV curve and perhaps I'll be able to run in low lamp...is it nice and bright all the time or are dark scenes a little more difficult?

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post #1854 of 2077 Old 06-09-2017, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Thanks same screen size I have but I find I have to run hdr in high lamp...I'll try the DV curve and perhaps I'll be able to run in low lamp...is it nice and bright all the time or are dark scenes a little more difficult?


The image taken using camera phone with the DV curve, low lamp, iris at -5, Panasonic UB700 player
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post #1855 of 2077 Old 06-12-2017, 12:26 AM
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Couple questions. I'm looking at the updated instructions for autocal. I also saw the note regarding the BT2020 profile.

Are these instructions the correct ones to be following? The updated instructions looks like it refers back to the original instructions. Do I follow some sort of combination of these two or has a single guide been created?


Currently I use:

1) HD Content: Cinema Picture Mode in Low Lamp with 0 Iris and CMD off.
2) 3D Content: 3D Cinema Picture Mode in High Lamp with 0 Iris and CMD off.
3) UHD Content: User1 Picture Mode, BT2020 Color Profile in High Lamp Mode then I choose the gamma curve (I know the custom gamma doesn't matter for calibration, just stating what I do).

As I understand it, I need set to Standard, Low Lamp, Iris 0 CMD off, Standard color profile and Gamma Normal then run though the 33 step with color + gamma calibration. (Manni's Guide Link above).
***
Then select high lamp mode and User 1 (I renamed HDR) Picture Mode, Normal color profile with and run the gamma+color calibration again. Then select the BT2020 color profile and run Color only. (source: same guide, last paragraph talking about HDR BT2020)

Is that right? What do I do to calibrate my High Lamp 3D content?
***

1) If I do what I stated above, will I just end up with one INIT file? Is the INIT file every single possible calibration parameter or just the ones it changed? Where does autocal put that INIT file on my PC? (I want to make certain I can go back to exactly the way it is now as if I never did the calibration if I do not like the results and/or screw it up).

2) I don't have the newest .4 update (on the last FW, 83.2) does that change the calibration when I do update?

3) I see it says to select these projector settings through the software, so high lamp, cmd, iris, bt2020 are all selectable through software, so basically pretend the remote doesn't exist once I open Projector Calibration Software 7 v1.00?

4) I saw Manni created a profile for 3D, is this a separate calibration? I watch 3D on the 3D Cinema Picture Mode on High Lamp with IRIS at 0. Do I redo Gamma or just the once is enough? (I didn't see any notes about the factory preset picture modes like 3D Cinema...and know to run gamma again for hdr mode)

6) If I'm running the baseline 33-step calibration, will choosing Standard or Cinema result in the same calibration or is there a difference? I currently use Cinema Profile and 3D Cinema profile. Just want to make certain I calibrate with the right mode selected...

7) Roughly how much time does the 33-step calibration take? How long for each subsequent 'color only' calibration? I know the calibration on the PC is a bit slow too, just wondering what I'm in for timewise here.

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post #1856 of 2077 Old 06-18-2017, 07:10 AM
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Group,

I am trying g to figure out how to download and upload Manni's DVD gamma curve. I have the software ready to roll, I just can't figure out the download and upload process. Can anybody clue me in or refer me to a post answering this question?
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post #1857 of 2077 Old 06-18-2017, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by AllenA07 View Post
Group,

I am trying g to figure out how to download and upload Manni's DVD gamma curve. I have the software ready to roll, I just can't figure out the download and upload process. Can anybody clue me in or refer me to a post answering this question?
Instructions are in this post: Official JVC RS600 / RS500 (X950R / X750R - X9000 / X7000) Owners Thread
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post #1858 of 2077 Old 06-18-2017, 09:12 AM
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I've only used the autocal application to upload curves. Other than that what I did was WATCH chad use the app -- and my recollection is that he only needed to do it for one config and that set a baseline for all of them.

I could be remembering wrong but for gamma I'm 99% sure that was true -- and gamma is, in my opinion, the most important use case for the autocal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamliner View Post
Couple questions. I'm looking at the updated instructions for autocal. I also saw the note regarding the BT2020 profile.

Are these instructions the correct ones to be following? The updated instructions looks like it refers back to the original instructions. Do I follow some sort of combination of these two or has a single guide been created?


Currently I use:

1) HD Content: Cinema Picture Mode in Low Lamp with 0 Iris and CMD off.
2) 3D Content: 3D Cinema Picture Mode in High Lamp with 0 Iris and CMD off.
3) UHD Content: User1 Picture Mode, BT2020 Color Profile in High Lamp Mode then I choose the gamma curve (I know the custom gamma doesn't matter for calibration, just stating what I do).

As I understand it, I need set to Standard, Low Lamp, Iris 0 CMD off, Standard color profile and Gamma Normal then run though the 33 step with color + gamma calibration. (Manni's Guide Link above).
***
Then select high lamp mode and User 1 (I renamed HDR) Picture Mode, Normal color profile with and run the gamma+color calibration again. Then select the BT2020 color profile and run Color only. (source: same guide, last paragraph talking about HDR BT2020)

Is that right? What do I do to calibrate my High Lamp 3D content?
***

1) If I do what I stated above, will I just end up with one INIT file? Is the INIT file every single possible calibration parameter or just the ones it changed? Where does autocal put that INIT file on my PC? (I want to make certain I can go back to exactly the way it is now as if I never did the calibration if I do not like the results and/or screw it up).

2) I don't have the newest .4 update (on the last FW, 83.2) does that change the calibration when I do update?

3) I see it says to select these projector settings through the software, so high lamp, cmd, iris, bt2020 are all selectable through software, so basically pretend the remote doesn't exist once I open Projector Calibration Software 7 v1.00?

4) I saw Manni created a profile for 3D, is this a separate calibration? I watch 3D on the 3D Cinema Picture Mode on High Lamp with IRIS at 0. Do I redo Gamma or just the once is enough? (I didn't see any notes about the factory preset picture modes like 3D Cinema...and know to run gamma again for hdr mode)

6) If I'm running the baseline 33-step calibration, will choosing Standard or Cinema result in the same calibration or is there a difference? I currently use Cinema Profile and 3D Cinema profile. Just want to make certain I calibrate with the right mode selected...

7) Roughly how much time does the 33-step calibration take? How long for each subsequent 'color only' calibration? I know the calibration on the PC is a bit slow too, just wondering what I'm in for timewise here.

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***
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post #1859 of 2077 Old 06-19-2017, 12:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Spyder 5 support in Calman and updated autocal procedure

Just to let everyone know that the latest beta of Calman 2017 now supports the Spyder 5. I tested it with a Spyder 5 Express and it worked perfectly, so no need to spend more money in a Pro or Elite as they are exactly the same meters for our use. This version of the software also offers a color volume measurement feature, I posted some results and explanations in the owner's thread.

I've finally found a Spyder 5 as good as my golden Spyder 4 (in fact slightly better) so that one's a keeper.

Here is the result of my latest rec-709 autocal after using a custom color profile to correct the meter errors (very slight, the highest error is around 2.6dE on white, so very decent).

The only thing I do now is to run a 33 points gamma+color autocal for each user mode, at the lamp/filter/iris setting I use for that mode. I have three modes, HD (rec-709, no filter, iris -13), HDR Low Lamp and HDR High Lamp, both iris fully open, filter, BT2020.

I do not run any color only autocal, I simply re-run a gamma+color autocal if I need to change the iris setting in any mode, which doesn't happen for HDR as I use full open and only changes very occasionally in HD (I've been on -13 for 700 hours and I still get 60nits, which is more than I need). So an autocal is roughly 3 x 33 steps gamma+color (one for each user mode) every 500 hours or so. I've almost reached 1200 hours and my peak brightness is 118nits in low lamp (down from 140nits when new) and 170nits in high lamp (down from 210nits when new). My screen is a Carada BW 88" diag 16/9 effective gain of 1.1.

I made no manual corrections apart from uploading a custom color profile to correct the meter errors. Clearly no further improvement is needed from a gamut point of view. This was measured using my Discus profiled to my i1pro2 (which is what I used to create the custom color profile for rec-709 and BT2020).

I still use MadVR to marginally improve gamma, but I could live without. Many thanks again to Chad B for his detailed method and spreadsheet, it makes a huge difference.
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post #1860 of 2077 Old 06-19-2017, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
...I do not run any color only autocal, I simply re-run a gamma+color autocal if I need to change the iris setting in any mode...
IIRC your older advice was to run a gamma+color autocal every long while (say 500 hours or so), and to run color only autocal's in between, say every couple hundred hours. So now that you are saying you do not run any color only autocal, does that mean that you no longer feel its worth pulling out the meter in between to do a tune up with the color only? Or are you saying that at the time you do the gamma+color you just also redo that at the multiple iris positions? If so, why? IIRC running the gamma part all over again with each color calibration just wastes time, as it simply just overwrites the last gamma done (if all that's changing is the iris position).

Also - can you post how your grayscale looked after calibration but before your custom color profile was applied?
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