I'll put here a detailed and up-to-date guide for V6 when I find the time, meanwhile here is a quick and dirty updated version of my post for the V5:
This is my updated instructions for use with the V6 of the JVC Autocal software. It assumes you've fully read the user manual and this thread entirely and have installed the drivers and software. Make sure no Spyder software (including their little taskbar app) is running or it will conflict with the Autocal. I tested V6 with an X7000 (RS500) and my golden Spyder 4 Pro, from a Window 10 x64 Pro VM in Parallels 11 on my MBP 13 late 2012 running the latest El Capitan (would work fine in Bootcamp too):
Main changes from V5:
- 12 points gamma manual control are accessible in the software, it's the third option from the left in the main menu
- No environment menu anymore, just a screen adjust setting in the installation menu
- Other than that, it's basically the same software.
- It seems a bit touchy while doing long communication processing, like uploading a profile or saving a gamma calibration. I advise not to do anything else during these operations.
1) A Datacolor Elite isn't necessary and can be as good, as bad or worse as any Pro unit. The only difference is software, and as we don't need the Datacolor software, it really doesn't matter. If you get a bad pro (when checking with a more reliable, ideally reference meter and another software like Calman or CP), just send it back for a replacement and get another one until you get a good one. I tried to get an Elite and it measured worse than the Pro. So save your $$$. The current (2015) JVC models still need the Spyder 4 Pro, Elite or TV. The Spyder 5 should be supported in the near future.
2) (didn't re-check this as they were already installed). After you've installed the Datacolor software to get the drivers for the Spyder meter, make sure the Datacolor utility isn't loaded in memory, it interacts with the JVC software. You only need to install the Datacolor software for the drivers. You don't even need to activate the software. Also make sure you don't have any IP remote running on an iPhone/iPad/android like iRule, as it will interfere too. Make sure for example that iRule isn't loaded in any of the devices connected to the network.
3) Make sure that screen adjust settings in the JVC installation menu is disabled. The JVC Autocal doesn't work if it is enabled. You can re-enable them after the autocal to take your screen into account (TBC).
4) Once the JVC software is running, especially once you've entered the calibration section, only use the software to control the PJ. If you use the remote, the changes you make with the remote won't be taken into account by the software which will lead to issues.
5) Network: switch eco mode off while calibrating. You can re-enable it later if you don't use any LAN remote like iRule, otherwise keep it off. For the same reason, make sure nothing else can access the JVC on the network during the calibration. For example, make sure iRule isn't running on your iPad or your phone...
1) Unless you only want to autocal one user mode with specific settings, I suggest you set the iris fully open in the JVC and when positioning the meter, make sure that you put it as close to the PJ as possible, without getting outside of the "safety rectangle" shown by the software before calibration. That way you'll make dark readings easier, and you won't saturate the meter. The shadow of the meter should roughly in the center of the screen.
1) It looks like the standard colour profile is quite oversaturated, so it should be a good starting point for a 3D LUT. Cinema 2 (which engages the filter) tracks best and seems to cover P3. Reference is the widest gamut (bar profile off, which is the native gamut but disables some features like Clear Black) and seems to try to get as close as possible to rec2020, but it doesn't track as linearily as cinema2.
Custom profiles creation (optional, Newbies you definitely want to skip this step!)
If you want to create a custom gamut with the JVC software, for example a rec-709 one, a DCI/P3 one and/or a rec-2020 one (you will need to create one with custom coordinates as they are not in the software, see here for the rec-2020 details, you need to enter X,Y for each primary in the CIE xy chromaticity diagram, so the one to the left of each table http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles...#_Toc379132064
), do so in the create profile option (third from the left on the main menu). This is where you'll need to adjust the coordinates to compensate for the error in the Spyder method, but I won't detail this here as it's quite advanced. Save the files in a place where you'll be able to find them again. Those able to do it will understand what I'm saying, other should just ignore this and go to the next step, or re-read the thread. Then import the custom profiles into a custom gamut location on the PJ, six of them are available (import/export option, 4th in the main menu when the PJ is connected, select color profile and the name of the file you saved when you created it), but note that this custom gamut can only be calibrated for color (gamut). Any gamma and color temp calibration will be ignored, and the autocal will show a "-" next to gamma or color temp during the calibration to make this clear.
I created six in total: first, rec-709 (HDTV preset), P3 (DCI preset, with the filter) and rec-2020 (custom targets, with the filter). It can take up to 7-8mn per profile (on a gigabit network) to upload these to the PJ, so be patient.
Then I created three optional ones, one for each gamut: P3 without the filter and rec-2020 without the filter, so that those without a filter in their PJ (X5000/RS400) can still see what they get, and those with a filter in their PJ (X7000/9000 and RS 500/600) but who want to privildge brightness over colour accuracy can also go that way. And finally I created a rec-709 with the filter, so that you can try to get a rec-709 that tracks well with the filter in place (for exemple to get better black levels in rec-709 if you have brightness to spare).
I haven't tested yet which gives better results for which kind of content, but they are all here. My plan is to use rec2020 with the filter for all my content with MadVR, that way MadVR can switch to the correct 3D LUT automatically depending on the content being played without having to control the projector, and I need to profile the widest gamut initially (so rec2020 with the filter). Then the filter will remain in place for the P3, Rec709, PAL and NTSC 3D LUT which MadVR will select automatically. I have the brightness to spare to do this. For all my non-MadVR content, I'll use a rec-709 profile without the filter, so that I get my brightness (and possibly my linearity without a 3D LUT) back.
If you want to fully calibrate the projector, here is the process I recommend:
Gamma calibration (and color calibration for first iris/CMD position), total time around 20mn:
0) In the settings (last option in the main menu), select gamma + color. Select how detailed you want the gamma calibration to be. I select High for 33 steps, as this only needs to be run ONCE.
0a) Go to calibrate, the first option in the main menu
1) Select a standard color profile, like natural, whichever you plan to use/want to calibrate. If you use user modes, this is the profile you will select in your user mode. But to calibrate, select it directly, don't select a user mode or a custom gamut or gamma and/or color temp calibration will be skipped and the software will show a "-" next to the skipped steps to indicate this. Make sure you set the iris to manual, autocal won't work otherwise. I also recommend to switch all processing off during calibration, so things like Clear Black and Motion Enhance.
2) Select gamma normal (all the gamma presets are calibrated, so better take the most standard one). [EDIT: including gamma D for those who are not sure about the meaning of the word ALL. More info on HDR calibration in posts 9 and 10].
3) Select 6500K color temp (all the color temp presets are calibrated, so better select the most standard one).
4) Check that the iris is fully open (best position to calibrate gamma) and that CMD is off (you'll have to calibrate with it on later). Set filter to off as well unless you want to calibrate a DCI/P3/Rec2020 custom colour profile.
5) Run the calibration. It should take around 10mn if you have selected 33 steps for gamma, it's faster otherwise.
6) Once it's done, check that there is no "-" after either the gamma, color temp or gamut. If a "-" is present, this means this part of the calibration has been skipped and won't be corrected. This usually happens if you have selected a custom color profile or if the environment settings are enabled in the 2014 models. Check that your gamma line is a straight line, that the color temp points are near D65. Gamut won't be properly corrected for most standard profiles, which is why you'll probably need to create a custom colour profile and calibrate it later. So you can ignore if gamut looks oversaturated, which is a good thing if you want to use a 3D LUT aftwerwards. Most important at this stage is the gamma correction: the "after" line should be straight.
7) Save the calibration. This will take a good 5-10mn, so be patient. Make sure that you save the backup file (with INIT in the name) in a safe place, as restoring that file is the only way to go back to factory settings. A factory reset in the service menu Doesn't reverse the autocal changes. These changes are PERMANENT. The only way to go back is to restore a previous calibration file, and restoring the init file is the only way to go back to factory settings.
Calibration of the various iris and CMD settings (total time less than 5mn per mode/setting)
Because the JVC Autocal only corrects one iris position range and CMD setting at a time, you need to either calibrate the settings you use, or be systematic and calibrate the whole range of AP value, with and without CMD if you use CMD.
0) Go to settings and select color. Gamma only needs to be run once, and it takes much longer when it's selected.
1) Go back to calibrate, and as we selected iris fully open (0) and no CMD, go down the range without CMD and back up the range with CMD. The effective ranges are slightly different but I use 0, -5, -10 and -15 as they are easy to remember and cover all the positions that have to be calibrated. If you don't do that, when you change the iris settings the greyscale will be wrong. Alternatively, you can calibrate only the iris setting you plan to use.
2) As iris open (0) / no CMD was done in PHASE 1, I then select the following settings for Lens AP:
-5 and calibrate (the process is much faster as only colour is selected, it's the gamma that takes the longer, especially if 33 steps/high was selected). Then I save.
-10 (calibrate) (save)
-15 (calibrate) (save)
3) I then switch to CMD On, calibrate and save (without changing Lens AP)
4) Then I go back up the lens AP settings, keeping CMD On:
-10 (calibrate) (save)
color calibration for custom color profiles
Once you've done this, you have calibrated the standard color profile you had selected (say natural for rec-709 or cinema for DCI-P3) for all lens AP settings, with or without CMD, for all gamma presets and all color temp presets.
Also, user modes using this standard colour profile will be calibrated too.
So, if you select user 1 with standard, a custom gamma using the 2.4 preset and a custom color temp using the 7000K preset, it will be calibrated.
However, what you need to do is run a color only calibration, just once, for each standard or custom color profile you use.
I suggest you select the lens AP and CMD setting you are most likely to use for extra accuracy with these settings, but you only need to do this once.
For example, say you have created a rec709 custom color profile (or imported my rec-709NF for No Filter) and uploaded it to custom1, you simply have to select custom1 as the color profile and run the calibration.
If, in a user2 preset, you select custom1 colour profile, gamma 2.6 and color temp 6500K, it should be calibrated already due to the previous steps.
From this baseline, I get near reference calibration for all my sources (all dEs under 2.8 with colorchecker SG, average dE under 1.5).
I use a BT1886 target gamma and only have to change the dark gamma control (2 notches) to get a near perfect BT1886 gamma curve.
: the 12-point gamma controls that used to be in the projector menus until the 2014 models are now back in the JVC Software (V6 only). It's nice to see them back, it can help fine-tuning a BT-1886 curve a bit further for example, but they are mostly unnecessary once you've done a gamma autocal unless you are not aiming for a standard curve, have done something wrong with the autocal, or are more OCD than me about these things. EDIT: in fact the gamma results for V6 are not as good as what I used to get with V5. They are still very good, but the 12points control might get handy if I can't improve on that.
If I then run a lightning LUT for MadVR with Calman, in 5-10 minutes (it only needs 101 points) I get a reference calibration for my HTPC with a max dE2000 under 1.3 and an average dE2000 under 0.5 for colorchecker SG. I double checked with a custom Colorchecker XXL with more than 1000 points and the whole cube is at reference level, same as with my X500. With a 105 points / 5-10mn LUT, instead of the 17x17x17 (4913 points / 2-4 hours) that I needed with my old X30 to get results not as good.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if I got any of the former is wrong or if you experience a different behaviour, but that's what I observed when I used the Autocal V6 with the X7000/RS500.
The most important point is that trying to select a custom gamut would not allow to correct gamma. A standard color profile has to be selected for gamma to be corrected.
Will revise and clarify when I have more time....
[EDIT: added HDR and SDR BT2020 settings and calibration info in post 9 and 10.]