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Optoma H79 review & screenshots

278K views 2K replies 196 participants last post by  jonnyozero3 
#1 ·
Setup, 106" diagonal Dalite Mat White screen, Toshiba SD5709 HDMI/to DVI DVD player tuned with colorfacts. Comcast Cable HDTV tuned by eye.


Received my new Optoma H79 just in time for the Superbowl, perfect timing.



First off the first look at the H79 tells you it's super bright, black is still very black so contrast looks excellent. Plenty of Pop with the H79. My wife usually doesn't care but this time she says "this is the best picture image I've ever seen in my life". "Cup your hands and blot out the outer screen area and it's like you're there". This was with HDTV, playing the big game on Sunday.


I tuned the DVI progressive signal with colorfacts but didn't move much in the RGB area's. Maybe up 1 on the blue brightness and up 2 on the contrast red, that was it. So OTB for DVI the colortemp was very close.


I took a guick look at a couple of dither scenes and the H79 played them best I've seen with no ripples or contour dither. (Dwarfs getting ring & Gandalfs first staf light as the fellowship moves in the cave). The speed of the new chip makes for a better picture, also there's more upgrades to the H79 than just the chip. They worked on the Optical path and hand picked other components, each item helps in the final results/contrast etc.


Now for the good part, how it looks.


Enjoy

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79troy1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79troy2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79troy3.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79glad1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79glad2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79glad3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79glad4.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79glad5.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79superhd1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79superhd2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79superhd3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79superhd4.jpg


Some cartoon color -
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79austin1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79austin2.jpg



Proof

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79logo.jpg


New shots -
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth4.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth5.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth6.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79fifth7.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79dtheater1.jpg


It's ify using numbers per each machine and device but I'll give you a couple. A problem though is I calibrate in the service menu, but maybe not a problem since using my service numbers will better give you a shot at a match.


Both signals tuned with colorfact to D65k, tuned up to the limited color.


DVI progressive I use a Bravo D2 at 720p.


First Service area


ADC

R gain 188

G gain 191

B gain 187


R offset 43

G offset 54

B offset 46


Picture

Gain R 155

Gain G 139

Gain B 136


Bias R 109

Bias G 113

Bias B 113


Second User area

Cinema

Contrast 9

Brightness -1

Sharp 3

gamma 1


Image mode

White peak zero

CT 2

Image TV


Advanced Adjusments

R contrast 9

G contrast 6

B contrast 2


R brightness -10

G brightness 0

B brightness 0



Now Analog progressive from a Denon 1600

First Service area


ADC is identical to the numbers above for DVI.


Picture

gain R 127

gain G 124

gain B 128


bias R 121

bias G 120

bias B 116


User settings

Cinema

contrast -18

brightness 2

color 10

sharpness 3

gamma 3


image

white peak zero

CT 2

Image mode Film


Advanced all at zero



That's it, pls don't examine other areas of the service menu you'll be ok with just looking at ADC and Picture. There's a pandora's box in there and examining certain area's can cause you a problem. Write down all your original service Picture & ADC numbers. Remember just stay with ADC & Picture.


To get in the service menu

Looking from the back of the PJ to the front, the four buttons in a row, hit the left two buttons and the right buton at the same time. You can use your remote to move in the service area, menu and enter buttons will take you in and out of service functions, to exit there's an exit Icon at the bottom.

Pheww! it's tuff doing this numbers thing. If you give it a try lmk how it went?


__________________

Tom/guitarman
 
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#2,002 ·
Joe: It's late and my eyes are getting quite confused between oppo and optoma! But let me see if I follow where it is you ended up. You have the lumagen OUTPUT and the input of your Optoma display both set to Video levels, and this you has remained constant.


The output of your oppo source, and the Lumagen DVI INPUT are in play. It's been a while since I played with a lumagen, so maybe I can dig up a manual again, but I'm confused as to what the combination of the input and output settings of the lumagen is doing.. It is a processor, not a display or source, so as long it isn't affecting a change in levels, it should be getting the full 0-255 range, and wherever the data falls should stay the same when it's output. The issue is what the source is outputting. The source should maintain black at 16, white ate 235, but the lumagen should pass all 0-255 through to the display.


Here's my idea to totally clarify things: take the lumagen out of the chain for a moment, and connect the source directly to your display, and see what the source outputs in its default setting when viewed on the display(with white and black level points moved in so you are sure to see the whole range from the source). If there is clipping in default, can you avoid this by raising the black level on the source, and lowering the white level on the source, or choosing a Video levels output mode? Shoot for maintaining the full range as you look at the DVE ramps if possible, also be wary about contouring problems when doing this. Now your source should be outputting video levels properly and without clipping, roughly.


Now, re-insert the lumagen into the chain, and adjust the lumagen input and output options so that you have the same picture as before, maintaining the full range.


Now go back to your display and calibrate.


hope that helps?
 
#2,003 ·
I have a question for the H79 owners out there. I demoed a unit on the weekend and I had a question about 4:3 material viewing. Is there a way to configure the projector to display such material at full height, with black bars on the left and right? I know that there's a native mode that displays it in the middle of the screen, and a cinema mode which stretches it to fit 16:9, but I've got a lot of TV series box sets that I'd like to display at full height, without relying on the digital zoom feature of the projector.


Thanks!
 
#2,004 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by MalHavoc /forum/post/0


I have a question for the H79 owners out there. I demoed a unit on the weekend and I had a question about 4:3 material viewing. Is there a way to configure the projector to display such material at full height, with black bars on the left and right? I know that there's a native mode that displays it in the middle of the screen, and a cinema mode which stretches it to fit 16:9, but I've got a lot of TV series box sets that I'd like to display at full height, without relying on the digital zoom feature of the projector.


Thanks!

Yes, Optoma calls it "Window" mode. It will stretch your 480i/p image to 720p and give pillarbox sides.
 
#2,005 ·
Joe:


Chris is definately the expert here but here's my take on it for a relative laymens point of view
:


If you can adjust anything in your chain so as to see the BTB bars and the WTW bars, then I would think the Oppo's output is at video levels. If it was doing PC levels (properly) then when it decoded say a digital 12 (BTB) it would truncate that and make it 0. It woudl convert the remaining digital levels of 16-235 to the 0-255 that's sent out the DVI port in either case. So it would never output any original information coded below 16, and thus you'd never see it (BTB) on your display.


The fact that you can see it (BTB/WTW) implies that the Oppo *is* outputting video levels and not truncating below black (and above white by the same tests) information.


Based on that, I'd set the entire chain to video levels and work from there.


To throw in some more digital wrenches (sorry) the interesting thing to me here is this... My DVD is SDI out, so it's doing digital RGB to the scaler. Scaler is doing digital RGB to the PJ. The DVD player shouldn't screw with the digital signal preferably (mine does not). It should decode the mpeg, and send the resulting decoded digital level numbers merrily out the DVI port, unaltered. Point being, you should be able to use the built in test pattern on the Lumagen to set the Lumagen to PJ relationship. Adjust the H79, not the Lumagen, leave it at it's defaults. Once that's done, the PJ will display digital 16 and 235 as white and black respectively on your screen. The PJ can show BTB or WTW bars depending on where you set your contrast and brightness.


Now enter the Oppo. If it's done right internally, it should not screw with the luminance levels of the digital decode from the mpeg off the DVD. It may well do it, but ideally should just send the digital signal on it's way, with no conversions; read a 16, send a 16, read a 14, send a 14, etc. That's one of the advantages to a digital signal IMO. At that point it may take a hair of an adjustment, but shouldn't need much.


The fact that the Oppo gives the opportunity to adjust the brightness on it's digital RGB output means it has the firmware to mess with the digital signal. So how that is implemented makes all bets off
One would think that the default woudl be to not do anything to the levels being decoded.


Generally I try had not to do any adjustments of the source when it comes to brightness, contrast, etc. You mayhave to with the Oppo as you've discovered.


And I agree anyting you suspect a problem in the chain, or arent' positive, removeing as many variables as possible (i.e. Lumagen) can be helpful in diagnosing the issue.


Hopefully Chris will have time to correct anything I sad that's just plain wrong
.


HTH,

Scott
 
#2,006 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray /forum/post/0


...To throw in some more digital wrenches (sorry) the interesting thing to me here is this... My DVD is SDI out, so it's doing digital RGB to the scaler. Scaler is doing digital RGB to the PJ. The DVD player shouldn't screw with the digital signal preferably (mine does not). It should decode the mpeg, and send the resulting decoded digital level numbers merrily out the DVI port, unaltered. Point being, you should be able to use the built in test pattern on the Lumagen to set the Lumagen to PJ relationship. Adjust the H79, not the Lumagen, leave it at it's defaults. Once that's done, the PJ will display digital 16 and 235 as white and black respectively on your screen. The PJ can show BTB or WTW bars depending on where you set your contrast and brightness.


Now enter the Oppo. If it's done right internally, it should not screw with the luminance levels of the digital decode from the mpeg off the DVD. It may well do it, but ideally should just send the digital signal on it's way, with no conversions; read a 16, send a 16, read a 14, send a 14, etc. That's one of the advantages to a digital signal IMO. At that point it may take a hair of an adjustment, but shouldn't need much.


The fact that the Oppo gives the opportunity to adjust the brightness on it's digital RGB output means it has the firmware to mess with the digital signal. So how that is implemented makes all bets off
One would think that the default woudl be to not do anything to the levels being decoded.


Generally I try had not to do any adjustments of the source when it comes to brightness, contrast, etc. You mayhave to with the Oppo as you've discovered.


And I agree anyting you suspect a problem in the chain, or arent' positive, removeing as many variables as possible (i.e. Lumagen) can be helpful in diagnosing the issue.


Hopefully Chris will have time to correct anything I sad that's just plain wrong
.


HTH,

Scott

Scott,


SDI is not RGB, it is YCbCr digital component and it also can be digital composite in an earlier form.


What you say should be true if the manufacturers would implement the specs correctly (16 being mapped to 0, etc.) . The problem is, they do not and it sounds like this is the case with the Oppo.


I do not agree that you should leave the source alone though. Think about this, if the source was clipping or crushing on it's output, then nothing you do further down the chain can recover that missing info, it's already gone into the digital dumpster. ALWAYS start with the source and work your way through the chain ensuring each piece is outputting the proper level...if it can.


That's exactly why I love SDI also, you can't mess with the values like you can with DVI/HDMI and each manufacturer seems to want to interpret the rules differently and implement their own "solution".


Quote:
Adjust the H79, not the Lumagen, leave it at it's defaults.

Please see above. I recommend, once you get the source (DVD Player) outputting correctly, do most of the adjustments with the Lumagen or whatever scaler/processor you're using. That is one of the main reasons you have it there in the first place, it is a dedicated high quality video processing device to do these sorts of things and to take it away from inferior processing built into sources and displays. Then and only then would I tweak the display as needed to get that last ounce of performance.
 
#2,007 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper /forum/post/0


Please see above. I recommend, once you get the source (DVD Player) outputting correctly, do most of the adjustments with the Lumagen or whatever scaler/processor you're using. That is one of the main reasons you have it there in the first place, it is a dedicated high quality video processing device to do these sorts of things and to take it away from inferior processing built into sources and displays. Then and only then would I tweak the display as needed to get that last ounce of performance.

Thanks for the clarification on the SDI signal.


I respectifully disagree in part on this last point, or not
. Maybe I misread your point in which case, nevermind



When you have a intermediate device like the Lumagen that is outputting a known, relatively simple digital signal (digital RGB), then I think it's best to get the relationship between it and the PJ first. Adjust the PJ to the reference signal. THEN adjust the sources (preferably using the input adjustments on teh processor) to match this "reference" setup on the PJ. In this arrangement, the PJ to scaler setup is constant and correct.


With DVI out of a Lumagen, you can use the Lumagen as a signal generator with it's built in patterns to do a grayscale. It's sending out a reference signal, which is realtively easy with digital RGB (just send 0-255 RGB) no analog to hose.


Once the Lumagen and PJ relationship is set, you can use the source to adjust, but I use the processor's input adjustments to tweak the incoming signal to match the reference.


That's what the gurus at Lumagen say, too. But you can straighten me out
I'm pretty close to Chris's byline anyway, so feel free to add to it



It's this method (using a reference to set the PJ) that Tom's counting on doing folks grayscale setting by mail using his new Accupel. Set the PJ, set everything else to match.


Cheers, Scott
 
#2,008 ·
Yes, I agree with your statements, but if adjustments need to be done, they should be done with the scaler because as you say, the display should be already calibrated to be doing the reference that it was set up to do, i.e. - greyscale. That's why I said not to adjust the display.


Remember the scaler is the hub of the video system and should be tweaked for each of it's inputs.
 
#2,009 ·
What it comes down to is this: the display should be aligned to reference values for digital video, and the source should be outputting these values correctly without shifting. If there are other things in the chain, such as processors, they should remain transparent, and pass the levels that are output by the source device.


If the source device is not performing correctly, first step is to try to get it to output levels correctly. If there is confusion about what intermediary devices like a processor maybe doing, best to remove those temporarily if you can to figure out what the source is actually doing.

Quote:
Remember the scaler is the hub of the video system and should be tweaked for each of it's inputs.

For analog, this is true. For digital, unless the source is wrong, all video source inputs should align equally.


Scott: thanks for reminding me that the lumagen has patterns built-in, this can be a useful tool too, to make sure that the display is setup correctly to that, and then work backwards from there at the source and the lumagen's input settings to get the correct output from the source as well.
 
#2,010 ·
Agreed, that's really what I've been trying to say. As you say.."if the source is wrong"..., that's why I said "if" tweaking/adjusting needs to be done (after all is done to the source that can be done and it is outputting correctly), do it at the scaler level and as a last resort, the display.


That's part of the beauty of this. Different techniques to get to the same end results. Either way, you want EVERY part of your video system to be setup and outputting the best possible signal to reach video nirvana, no matter how bad some manufacturers try to screw it up
 
#2,011 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles /forum/post/0


Joe: It's late and my eyes are getting quite confused between oppo and optoma! But let me see if I follow where it is you ended up. You have the lumagen OUTPUT and the input of your Optoma display both set to Video levels, and this you has remained constant.


The output of your oppo source, and the Lumagen DVI INPUT are in play. It's been a while since I played with a lumagen, so maybe I can dig up a manual again, but I'm confused as to what the combination of the input and output settings of the lumagen is doing.. It is a processor, not a display or source, so as long it isn't affecting a change in levels, it should be getting the full 0-255 range, and wherever the data falls should stay the same when it's output. The issue is what the source is outputting. The source should maintain black at 16, white ate 235, but the lumagen should pass all 0-255 through to the display.


Here's my idea to totally clarify things: take the lumagen out of the chain for a moment, and connect the source directly to your display, and see what the source outputs in its default setting when viewed on the display(with white and black level points moved in so you are sure to see the whole range from the source). If there is clipping in default, can you avoid this by raising the black level on the source, and lowering the white level on the source, or choosing a Video levels output mode? Shoot for maintaining the full range as you look at the DVE ramps if possible, also be wary about contouring problems when doing this. Now your source should be outputting video levels properly and without clipping, roughly.


Now, re-insert the lumagen into the chain, and adjust the lumagen input and output options so that you have the same picture as before, maintaining the full range.


Now go back to your display and calibrate.


hope that helps?

OK, Chris, I'll do as you suggest. Thanks.
 
#2,012 ·
So far so good. I have the H 79 up and running with the component and S video. I have to wait til tomorrow for the DVI input (my main one). The HD TIVO looks excellent using the component connection. HD is very smooth and closeups are as sharp as can be. The biggest difference over the benq is sharpness and less noise in dark and light images. I can't wait til the Gefen Boost/HDMI coupler comes tomorrow and I can get down to business (HD TIVO, SP1000 dvd player, JVC HM5 U)...
 
#2,013 ·
Looking for a good inexpensive celing mount for my Optoma H79. Would like something that is relatively flush mounted (I don't need a pole). Anyone have any recomendations?


Thanks.
 
#2,014 ·
Vogel works with some very minor mods. It's cheap and very low profile. It's what I use. You have to drill out the holes for the 6mm (8mm? forget) bolts into the PJ. The arm's holes are a little too small. I used stainless steel button-head cap screws (allen socket) that I picked up at the local bolt store. All works well. I'll try to take a picture of it and post it early next week. May need to remind me.


Scott
 
#2,015 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray /forum/post/0


I will make it available publically sometime this week, next at the latest. I have one submenu to touchup and one extra pattern to create and add. It is a 3Mb .iso file. You will have to have a DVD burner to make your own. I'll might make a mailing available for those who don't for a small charge to cover expenses.


I will post a quick snipet here when it's ready (since I let the cat out here), but I will start a thread in the right place when I have it ready.

OK, for those of you who PM'd me about the calibration disc, I have started a thread in the calibration forum. If you are interested, subscribe to that thread, that's where I'll provide more information about it as it progresses. Thanks, Scott

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586139
 
#2,016 ·
Perfect! I just ran my MONSTER HDMI400 35 foot cable and I am pleased to say "No Sparklies"!!! Sure component looks great, but the DVI input is where it is at! I followed Guitarman's settings (thanks again) and I am being floored at how real the picture quality is. Tonite we are planning a screening of Cinderella and my family can't wait!!! Neither can I (even though it is a kids film)...
 
#2,017 ·
My H79 arrives here tomorrow and it will be interesting to see how it compared to my old Sim2 300xtra-H.

Would also like to thank Tom guitarman and friends for the handy setup tips, should make fast tracking to a decent picture that tiny bit easier
.
 
#2,019 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod /forum/post/0


Perfect! I just ran my MONSTER HDMI400 35 foot cable and I am pleased to say "No Sparklies"!!! Sure component looks great, but the DVI input is where it is at! I followed Guitarman's settings (thanks again) and I am being floored at how real the picture quality is. Tonite we are planning a screening of Cinderella and my family can't wait!!! Neither can I (even though it is a kids film)...

That new commercial comes to mind (Cinderella) "Men should act like Men"


I know you said Family.


Try Sin City on the H79 next. Excellent job at handling this very dark movie with flashes of color in B&W scenes.
 
#2,023 ·
Anyone know if it is likely that the H79 will get a software update (or if the new units have an later version of the software than the early shipments)? Also, is it possible to upgrade the software without sending the unit back to Optoma?
 
#2,026 ·
I am also starting to think there may be power supply issues with these things
There are too many funky things that pop up with them and many times it is because the PS isn't regulated properly and voltages sag and rise intermittently.


We used to see wierd issues like this when our TV transmitter's PS would start to go bad too. Small circuit anomalies and the like.
 
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