The official Ruby Calibration Q/A Thread - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 615 Old 08-07-2006, 12:42 PM
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can someone help please? I need to know how to save settings after adjusting in the advanced menus. thanks
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post #272 of 615 Old 08-07-2006, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbecker View Post

can someone help please? I need to know how to save settings after adjusting in the advanced menus. thanks

I can't recall the exact text in the menu, but there's something labeled as "save" or something like that under the custom 1/2/3 in the menu (IIRC). You must choose that before turning the pj off or exiting the service menu or all changes will revert.
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post #273 of 615 Old 08-07-2006, 05:14 PM
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well there is custom 1,2,3 and then save below. I hit the save button and it did not save. Do I have to hit save and then pick custom 1,2, or 3? Just need to get it saved I can't believe nobody has a definitive answer with all the guru's in here lol
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post #274 of 615 Old 08-07-2006, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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No, all you should need to do is highlight Save and select it. Then there is some confirmation on the screen like "saved!" or "Ok!" or something like that. That's it. If its not saving beyond that I'm not sure what is going on. Oh, just make sure that you are checking the same input when you come back in as you saved. For example if you have input 1 selected and save, but come back in to the service menu with input 2 selected you will be looking at input 2. This may not be what is happening in your case but its the only thing I can think of that could explain why you're not seeing saved #s.
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post #275 of 615 Old 08-07-2006, 08:56 PM
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I agree with the DVD lover. If you're hitting save and it's not, I can't think of why that's so?

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post #276 of 615 Old 08-08-2006, 12:35 PM
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OK here are my updated numbers. See my postings earlier in this thread for details on all other settings not specifically mentioned here:

Auto-iris: ON
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 80
Bulb hours: 425

Gain:
Red 86 (97)
Green 109 (110)
Blue 131 (128)

Bias:
Red 128 (129)
Green 124 (124)
Blue 124 (126)

Note that the numbers in parens are the OLD values I had (for comparison purposes) previously at 200 hours. The numbers listed before the numbers in parens are the new numbers.

This resulted in D65 with dE between 1-3 from 10-100 IRE and a dE of 5 at 5 IRE.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I'm at about 100 hours I think, I need to check the bulb timer. Are Ruby's all fairly similar in the sense that I would probably get very close to your picture using your numbers? (much more so than sticking with factory settings?) I haven't touched this projector out of the box yet and have done nothing. I only have DVE and the disc that came with the Ruby. Should I buy Avia? I think I sold Avia when DVE came out, but perhaps that was a mistake. Anything I should buy for good calibration?

I'll try to read thru this thread. Perhaps I will just use your 200 hour settings since they wil likely get me closer to a good picture than whatver the factory setting are that came with it. The Bulb quality/life is depressing, I wish they could make the bulbs better.

Also, is not 80/50 the default contrast/brightness?
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post #277 of 615 Old 08-08-2006, 02:23 PM
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Another thought... If you get another set of data the next time you calibrate, we could plot the data and make a graph of bulb hours vs settings and extrapolate settings for any given bulb life. It would be neat to see the data plotted out and helpful as well...
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post #278 of 615 Old 08-08-2006, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Others have reported good success with my numbers at similar bulb hours vs. the factory defaults. However I can't emphasize enough that you should be failry close in bulb hours to my posted bulb hours for the calibration for the best results. For instance the difference between my calibration at 200 hrs vs. 400 hrs was quite significant. If you read back through all my posts in this thread you can find posted calibration results at 20 hours, 200 hours and 400 hours IIRC.
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post #279 of 615 Old 08-08-2006, 09:04 PM
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Hmmmm.... I will take a look. I'm not sure what software I have on my computer, but I would like to make a graph of the settings vs time...
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post #280 of 615 Old 08-09-2006, 04:35 PM
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Would be interested in hearing settings from someone with a Da-Lite High Power screen. I like this screen a lot, but felt I had to cut back brightness and contrast a lot from the levels people are using with other screens.

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post #281 of 615 Old 08-09-2006, 04:37 PM
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I never took screen type/gain into consideration, does that matter much? I'm using a Stewart studiotek...
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post #282 of 615 Old 08-09-2006, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Health Nut View Post

I never took screen type/gain into consideration, does that matter much? I'm using a Stewart studiotek...

If you are asking whether that matters as it relates to my calibration #s, the answer is 'No, it does not'. I am taking my readings directly from the light coming out of the pj, not off the screen.
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post #283 of 615 Old 08-10-2006, 08:02 AM
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To expand on that, it does indeed matter if you're taking the screen into account when doing the calibration, which you should. Luckily the ST130 material is pretty close to true and doesn't shift much like some other screens can.

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post #284 of 615 Old 08-10-2006, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Harper View Post

Luckily the ST130 material is pretty close to true and doesn't shift much like some other screens can.

I'd say more than close. I've measured a bunch of ST130's over the years, made a point of it for a while, and they all measured the same as the incident signal to 3 decimal places.

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post #285 of 615 Old 08-10-2006, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Now that my Ruby has 225 hour on it...

Iris: AUTO
Gain: 97, 110, 128 (R,G,B)
Bias: 129,124,126

Iris: OFF
Gain: 97,111,127
Bias: 130,126,130

For those without instrumentation you may want to try these numbers and see how it looks on your unit.

I don't think using the numbers from one projector to "calibrate" another one is a good idea, but I've held off posting until I had some data. Here are the numbers from another VW100 with 233 hours on the lamp. As you can see, they are significantly different from lovingdvd's.

Settings for HDMI input:

Iris: AUTO
Gain: 93,111,128 (R,G,B)
Bias: 132,127,128

Iris: OFF
Gain: 93,112,128
Bias: 132,128,128

For DVI input:

Iris: AUTO
Gain: 94,111,128 (R,G,B)
Bias: 132,128,127

Iris: OFF
Gain: 94,110.128
Bias: 132,128,127

Calibration was done with a colorimeter (Prog labs CA6) referenced to a Gretag Lightspex, which is checked monthly with a reference light source.

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post #286 of 615 Old 08-14-2006, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

OK here are my updated numbers. See my postings earlier in this thread for details on all other settings not specifically mentioned here:

Auto-iris: ON
Brightness: 50
Contrast: 80
Bulb hours: 425

Gain:
Red 86 (97)
Green 109 (110)
Blue 131 (128)

Bias:
Red 128 (129)
Green 124 (124)
Blue 124 (126)


Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi all,

I am new in the forum and in the projector business so excuse me if I my questions are too obvious. I am looking for a front projector and reading these forums everybody seems to agree that the Ruby is clearly the way to go in its price range. My problem is that my dealer works with Runco and is recommending me the CL420, which here is sold in the same price range.

I understand that the difference should be obvious towards the Ruby, but I have been playing with it (I have a demo unit) trying the factory prepared modes and the different color temperatures and such, but aside from the resolution which is obviously better, in terms of brightness and color quality I am not able to tweak the Ruby and achieve even near the quality of the CL420. It always seems very dim and washed out (110'' diagonal screen from 14' in a totally dark room), and the colors too redish. I am no expert so I am talking just from my "eyesight" impressions.

Finally I have entered the service menu and tested these exacts settings from lonvingdvd: the colors seem now more natural but the image is totally dim, it looks much worse than the bright vivid image from CL420.

So, my question is, am I doing something wrong or is it possible that for some people like me the CL420 gives much better image than the Ruby?. Does it make any sense to get a CL420 for almost the same price than a Ruby? The only explanation that I find is that I am testing a 530 hour Ruby bulb against a brand new CL420, but I cannot beleive that the image degrades so quickly.

Please help!! I don't want to waste my hard-saved money with a bad choice, but here there are no local dealers from Sony so I have to do the tweaking myself and I am failing miserably . Is there any "magic button" that I am missing?

Thx
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post #287 of 615 Old 08-15-2006, 04:42 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jruizcristina View Post

Hi all,

I am new in the forum and in the projector business so excuse me if I my questions are too obvious. I am looking for a front projector and reading these forums everybody seems to agree that the Ruby is clearly the way to go in its price range. My problem is that my dealer works with Runco and is recommending me the CL420, which here is sold in the same price range.

I understand that the difference should be obvious towards the Ruby, but I have been playing with it (I have a demo unit) trying the factory prepared modes and the different color temperatures and such, but aside from the resolution which is obviously better, in terms of brightness and color quality I am not able to tweak the Ruby and achieve even near the quality of the CL420. It always seems very dim and washed out (110'' diagonal screen from 14' in a totally dark room), and the colors too redish. I am no expert so I am talking just from my "eyesight" impressions.

Finally I have entered the service menu and tested these exacts settings from lonvingdvd: the colors seem now more natural but the image is totally dim, it looks much worse than the bright vivid image from CL420.

So, my question is, am I doing something wrong or is it possible that for some people like me the CL420 gives much better image than the Ruby?. Does it make any sense to get a CL420 for almost the same price than a Ruby? The only explanation that I find is that I am testing a 530 hour Ruby bulb against a brand new CL420, but I cannot beleive that the image degrades so quickly.

Please help!! I don't want to waste my hard-saved money with a bad choice, but here there are no local dealers from Sony so I have to do the tweaking myself and I am failing miserably . Is there any "magic button" that I am missing?

Thx

According to your post "there are no local dealers from Sony so I have to do the tweaking myself." So where did you get a $10,000 demo Ruby if there are no local dealers? Since you are in the "projector business" seems kind of strange that you don't have any contacts that can help you out with the Ruby. Do you work for Runco?
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post #288 of 615 Old 08-15-2006, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkv4 View Post

According to your post "there are no local dealers from Sony so I have to do the tweaking myself." So where did you get a $10,000 demo Ruby if there are no local dealers? Since you are in the "projector business" seems kind of strange that you don't have any contacts that can help you out with the Ruby. Do you work for Runco?

It is a very odd post. Taken at face value a 530 hr Ruby in iris on could be putting out as little as 160 lumens, in auto or off as little as 300 lumens. A brand new 420 will output 460 d65 calibrated lumens according to Runco. Of course at 530 hours it will likely have fallen to as little as 280 lumens.

If you quickly A/B 460 lumens vs 160 lumens, 460 will always look more impressive, especially if one does not have a very critical eye.
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post #289 of 615 Old 08-15-2006, 06:23 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for your answers, I think the lamp issue is in fact my problem. Firstable, I do not work for Runco at all, nor I am in the projector business, I meant that I decided just a couple of months ago to buy a projector for my home cinema installation and I am just getting the hang of the available options.

About the demo Ruby and the local dealers, here you can buy a Sony unit but you just get the box, there are no professional services available for callibration; that is what I meant by not having Sony dealers (may be it is not the proper word, again sorry for my English). However I have found a specialized company that provides this kind of services and they are the ones recommending Runco. I am not naive and I know it is possible that they have good margins on those or simply they are fond of them because they are used to work with them, so I cannot expect them to be totally objective, that is why I am also asking you.

It seems that the key issue here is the lamp. I did not expect such difference in lamp brightness with the use, so I guess HoustonHoyaFan and Bob are right, and I was comparing a 460 lumens Runco with a 160 lumens Sony, that is what impressed me as a big difference towards the Runco. That and the fact that Ruby colors were badly callibrated from factory settings; now with lovingdvd settings they look much better.

The bad news for me is to find out that the dimness is something normal to be expected after 500 hours with any projector. For me it is shocking and very disappointing. Supposedly lamps have 2500 hours, but at least with a 110'' screen after 500 hours the Ruby looks worse than my old CRT tube (this is my overall and of course very personal impression). So know I feel a little depressed, I don't know whether to wait for brighter 1080p projectors or just forget it all and go for a Pioneer plasma

I was hoping to have a 110'' cinema-like experience at home but it seems to me a little unrealistic at this time, at least within $10k budget. Any encouragement or ideas from people with my "dimness problem" would be appreciated.

Regards
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post #290 of 615 Old 08-15-2006, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jruizcristina View Post

I was hoping to have a 110'' cinema-like experience at home but it seems to me a little unrealistic at this time, at least within $10k budget. Any encouragement or ideas from people with my "dimness problem" would be appreciated.

Regards

1) Run the Ruby in iris auto or iris off instead of iris on. That will effectively double the light output.
2) Get a high gain screen, A dalite hi-power or Vutec Silverstar are two popular models. Either will efectively triple the light output.
3) Enjoy!
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post #291 of 615 Old 08-16-2006, 06:43 AM
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Quote:


I was hoping to have a 110'' cinema-like experience at home but it seems to me a little unrealistic at this time, at least within $10k budget.

I am using a 130 inch diagonal (10' wide, 2.35) screen, and the Ruby is very bright, and this is with only a 1.3 gain Studiotek. I an using factory settings right now and will try to use Loving DVD's settings tonight.

My image is very bright! I use the shortest throw distance possible, maybe that is helping a lot? I checked the bulb timer... I only have 60 hours, I thought I had more than that... Maybe it will dim a lot more, but right now there is plenty of brightness. Maybe the curved screen also effectively raises the gain?

I highly recommend my setup since I believe everything is working synergystically

1) ISCO III lens: Allows you to use the SHORTEST throw on the Ruby, increasing light output while also allowing you to use the CONSTANT HEIGHT method which fully uses the full SXRD panel in 2.35 movies

2) Curved screen: probably increases the relative gain of the Studiotek material from 1.3 to around 1.5 (rough estimate), but with the naturalness of the Studiotek material. Corrects for the slight pincushioning of the ISCO III.

In this case I'm using 130 inch diagonal and only 1.3 gain, yet I have a VERY bright picture. Consider the above factors as well. I'm looking forward to Loving DVD's settings tonight... I'll probably use the 100 hour settings since I can 'age' the projector right into those settings.... I have to dig thru the posts again. Actually, I think the 100 hour settings are those in the parenthesis... So after I use those settings, I assume I also have to usethe service menu to apply the other tweaks on sharpness, etc... I am also anxiuos to see Alan's? light cannon tweak...
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post #292 of 615 Old 08-16-2006, 07:17 AM
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Health Nut, you raised precisely the topic I am investigating right now: anamorphic lenses with the Ruby. From what I have read it seems clear that the Isco III lens, or even cheaper options like Prismasonic of Panamorph should boost the brightness and resolution with 2.35:1 material in my 110'' 16x9 screen, but if you are in a tight budget like me, do you think it is worth it considering the overall experience or is it better to spend the extra $$ in a better screen or sound system?
Besides, as I usually watch movies with subtitles and I think they usually go in the letterbox, I am not sure if this is a good option for me... then again may be there are DVD players that can adjust the subtitles position.

My analysis for external lenses right now is balancing:

*Plus side: brightness, resolution
*Minus side: image artifacts, subtitle placement, price (is it really worth it?)

What is your experience? May be I am aiming for a too professional installation considering my budget. This projection world is far more complicated that I thought!

Please feel free to ignore me if this is off topic here
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post #293 of 615 Old 08-16-2006, 07:20 AM
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Please go to the 2.35 Constant Height section of the forum. I mearly wanted to address other methods which significantly increase light output, particularly in a synergystic manner. Suffice it to say, only the ISCO III allows you to use the shortest throw distance of the Ruby: shorter throw = more light output

(Prismasonic cannot do this. About throw distance/screen width: ISCO III can go down to 1.3 ratio while Prismasonic only about 1.8... you need about 1.4 for the shortest throw on the Ruby.) Last thing about lenses: Is the new Panamorph lens as good as the ISCO III? I heard that Panamorph is coming out with a lens in the $2,000 range... We can discuss this on the 2.35 section of the forum.
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post #294 of 615 Old 08-17-2006, 03:58 PM
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Since this is now the official sticky thread apparently replacing Alan's tweak thread, can the owner create a FAQ/GUIDE as post #1. That would be most helpful.

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post #295 of 615 Old 08-17-2006, 07:25 PM
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I am very happy to SEE there are still people posting useful tips in this thread...

For my latest Reviews and Stuff google -> Joe Rod Home Theater .Com
Check out my Dolby Atmos/Surround first take:
http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homeste...=1409517748063
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post #296 of 615 Old 08-18-2006, 12:41 AM
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Me too! I'd just love to see the latest settings, tweaks, etc. at the top for quick reference, that's all...

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post #297 of 615 Old 08-22-2006, 05:12 PM
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For those with JVC 5U HDMI DVHS players, I need to confess that since I set up my Ruby last December, I have been watching 720p, even with DTheater 1080i tapes, without realizing it.
I mistakenly believed that the JVC only output 1080i when playing tapes encoded as such. I never bothered checking the signal input as per the Sony Ruby. (Note I had been using the HS 20 and HS 50 projectors previously, and I also use a Gefen HDMI switch). I finally checked it two nights ago, noticed that the signal was 720p, and searched for a cure, which I found.

WOW!

The 3D effect and sharp edges/detail on the HD Video concert of YES, is the best I've seen (including HD DVD, though I haven't watched all the movies out yet). I now have about 60 Dtheater titles to watch again.
The trick is on the JVC to press the HDMI button on the front panel, right side, so the HDMI light goes out. This forces the player to select the output.
Hopefully none of you are as ignorant as me, but you might check to see what you are really watching if you haven't checked for this.

Paul
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post #298 of 615 Old 09-05-2006, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't had a chance yet to check for any Y/C Delay errors in the Ruby, but plan to shortly.

Just thinking ahead - should I see any errors that need correcting - what controls (likely in the service menu I suppose) would be used to make the necessary adjustments?
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post #299 of 615 Old 09-06-2006, 03:22 PM
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What inputs are you using? This should only effect S-Video and Component YPbPr.

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post #300 of 615 Old 09-06-2006, 08:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm using the DVI input only. I thought the same (as you wrote), but I recently got a Sony SXRD RPTV (KDS-50A2000) and it definately had some Y/C delay error on the HDMI input with 1080i (which was easily correctable via its service menu).

After that experience I want to check my Y/C on the Ruby next chance I get, so in the meantime I wanted to find out what service menu settings on the Ruby I'd use to correct this in case I find any issue there.
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Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

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