The official Ruby Calibration Q/A Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 615 Old 01-17-2008, 08:08 AM
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Sorry if this has been posted. Any where to get a Ruby replacement bulb for for less than a new plasma or lcd tv?
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post #542 of 615 Old 01-17-2008, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roentgen1895 View Post

Sorry if this has been posted. Any where to get a Ruby replacement bulb for for less than a new plasma or lcd tv?

You are not comparing apples to apples.

Even if I paid 100% LIST price for a new Ruby Bulb
it would be ORDERS of Magnitude cheaper than an
13ft. LCD or Plasma.

OH YA - they don't make LCDs or Plasmas that big
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post #543 of 615 Old 01-17-2008, 09:42 AM
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AVS sells replacement bulbs that you can install in the bulb housing. The instructions for doing so are on another thread. This is a bit more difficult than simply replacing the Sony bulb and housing unit.
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post #544 of 615 Old 01-17-2008, 08:10 PM
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Hmm can I stack Ruby's to get a better punch from my setup. I think my sceen size of 120" is pushing it's ability for brightness.
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post #545 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone View Post

Hmm can I stack Ruby's to get a better punch from my setup. I think my sceen size of 120" is pushing it's ability for brightness.

Sure you can stack them - but there are other draw
backs to that, like a much less sharp picture from
overlaying the two images.

I have a 152" screen and I have plenty of brightness.

How is that?

I bought a screen with a GAIN of 2.
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post #546 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone View Post

Hmm can I stack Ruby's to get a better punch from my setup. I think my sceen size of 120" is pushing it's ability for brightness.

You could try Allan's 'light cannon' tweak, if you have not already. If interested, just do a search here for details.
____
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post #547 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post

You could try Allan's 'light cannon' tweak, if you have not already. If interested, just do a search here for details.
____
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I think it is next to impossible to find because it is in some archive
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post #548 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I think it is next to impossible to find because it is in some archive

I fear you are right. I had bookmarked it (here) and also just did a quick search (here). However, I am getting database errors. Hopefully this is only a temporary issue, because I did not save this info off-line either and will likely need it myself in the not too distant future...
____
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post #549 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 07:43 AM
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I think things must be moving around in the archive because I had it booked marked as well and now its gone. Here is Rics original Ruby Calibration thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...y+service+code

Luckily I did make a copy of my post on the iris tweak from the archive last time I found it and here it is:

The following is a DIY, when ever in the service menu proceed at your own risk as you may cause damage to your projector !


Alan Gouger
re in the good ole USA
Posts: 14,718

A simple adjustment will turn your Ruby into a light canon.
Anyone complaining about the Ruby not having enough light your going to like this simple adjustment in the service menu.


Out of the box "Iris off" is brighter then "Iris Auto"...were going to change that.

Do not worry about the change we are about to make in the service menu. When you power down the projector and power it back on for the next viewing it will default back to factory settings unless while your in the service menu you choose to save to memory after your done making your changes so this is a harmless experiment

Do not choose "save to memory"

Make sure your projector is set to "Iris Auto"
This tweak will only effect the " Iris Auto" mode.

Go into service mode: On the remote hit enter, enter, left, enter, up.

Now pull up the menu and go to the very bottom selection and right courser.
Now go to "Other"
Now go to number 44. For safety right down the default setting. Were only going to change number 44. Do not change anything else. After you have written down the factor setting change it to 100.
Now back out of the menu without doing a save.

You should now have one hell of a bright picture. Blacks are still excellent.
Now toggle between Iris off and Auto Iris and you will not believe how dim Iris off is yet that use to be the bright mode. You will have a hard time going back to the default setting.

Give it a try. Let me know what you think.

__________________
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post #550 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post

I fear you are right. I had bookmarked it (here) and also just did a quick search (here). However, I am getting database errors. Hopefully this is only a temporary issue, because I did not save this info off-line either and will likely need it myself in the not too distant future...
____
Axel

The last time I needed it - I had to ASK Alan for it and he
retrieved it from the achieve - I saved a COPY on my Computer.

If anyone needs it - PM me

Oooooooops too late - Alan beat me to the punch ABOVE
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post #551 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 08:20 AM
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I do not know why it is missing in the archives. I think when David adds more data to the archive things must shift to make room fo the new. I will ask.
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post #552 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

I do not know why it is missing in the archives. I think when David adds more data to the archive things must shift to make room fo the new. I will ask.

Alan,

Is the light canon tweak better than using a HiPower with the Ruby?

Just wondering, though its too late since I just ordered a HiPower from AVS.

Andy
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post #553 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyN View Post

Alan,

Is the light canon tweak better than using a HiPower with the Ruby?

Just wondering, though its too late since I just ordered a HiPower from AVS.

Andy

Your good to go. You will get far more gain from the HP. The HP is like a miracle screen
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post #554 of 615 Old 01-18-2008, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Your good to go. You will get far more gain from the HP. The HP is like a miracle screen

Thanks Alan.
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post #555 of 615 Old 01-19-2008, 10:01 PM
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hmmm look what I sparked... : ) I'm aware of the light cannon trick, I receantly turned it back down to get deeper blacks. I just miss the punch of the daylight scenes, maybe my bulbs going, I think I have 900 plus hours. I'll get the dyi bulb soon enough. Thanks for the input, hope the archives are working now. As far as the HiPower I'm not keen on the limited viewing area, center of the couch is bright, sitting at the end of the couch is dim.. not for me. My vutec is fine, I don't see the sparklies unless I focus my eyes off the image. Kind of like the trick pictures you got to get your eyes at a funny focus to see the image. I just watch the movie and the sparklies turn invisable.
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post #556 of 615 Old 02-06-2008, 12:41 PM
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I brought up the "lens focus" test screen on my new(used) Ruby and I can see red and green on either side of most (not all) of the verticle lines of the crosses. Sounds like a convergence issue maybe not, but just wanted to check. Maybe this test pattern isn't accurate from the start? If it is a problem, is there a fix?? Thanks
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post #557 of 615 Old 02-06-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclem View Post

I brought up the "lens focus" test screen on my new(used) Ruby and I can see red and green on either side of most (not all) of the verticle lines of the crosses. Sounds like a convergence issue maybe not, but just wanted to check. Maybe this test pattern isn't accurate from the start? If it is a problem, is there a fix?? Thanks

Sounds like the kind of misconvergence I have on the demo VW100 I picked up a few months ago (although mine was only the red, and only to the left). Mine was quite consistent across the whole field, so for the time being I'm able to effectively compensate with the chroma delay adjustment on my Lumagen processor. If you have a similar adjustment available in your video chain you might be able to realize some improvement. Otherwise it sounds like it might be a candidate for a trip to Sony repair for a convergence check.
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post #558 of 615 Old 02-06-2008, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclem View Post

I brought up the "lens focus" test screen on my new(used) Ruby and I can see red and green on either side of most (not all) of the verticle lines of the crosses. Sounds like a convergence issue maybe not, but just wanted to check. Maybe this test pattern isn't accurate from the start? If it is a problem, is there a fix?? Thanks

Yep, this is a convergence issue and unfortunately rather normal for a Ruby. There is nothing an end user can do other than sending it in to Sony. If it is outside the spec (from what I understand that's several pixels off) they would repair/adjust it. Depending how old the unit is, this work would be either covered under warranty or not. To make things worse, chances are that those nicely aligned panels may lose some of their convergence again from a potentially rough handling on their way back.

The panels in my Ruby are off by about a pixel or so on the right side. While that's noticeable on the test pattern, I cannot see it during a movie.
_____
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post #559 of 615 Old 06-07-2008, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Convergence is not Adjustable.

The Ruby comes with a CD to adjust Gamma from your laptop
via the Ethernet connection to the Ruby!

Has anyone manage to connect to his Ruby via Ethernet ?
Mine does not want to get an IP in DHCP, and does not work if I set it up manually...
Any other way to use Image Director ?

Thx !

PS: I have a Netgear DG834GT

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post #560 of 615 Old 06-07-2008, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BangoO View Post

Has anyone manage to connect to his Ruby via Ethernet ?
Mine does not want to get an IP in DHCP, and does not work if I set it up manually...
Any other way to use Image Director ?

Thx !

PS: I have a Netgear DG834GT

Mine works fine - I configured my Ruby with a FIXED
IP address - 2 Years ago. I can access it any time it
is powered on. It has been so long ago - I don't remember
the procedure I used. I do remember there is some MASTER
password. I probably had to hook my laptop to the Ruby
to configure it via RS-232.

AGAIN - it has been more than 2 years - so I don't remember.
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post #561 of 615 Old 06-08-2008, 01:09 PM
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Thx, I finally connected via RS-232, worked like a charm, and I now have a 2.2 gamma curve

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post #562 of 615 Old 06-08-2008, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BangoO View Post

Thx, I finally connected via RS-232, worked like a charm, and I now have a 2.2 gamma curve

There you go - HAPPY I could assist.
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post #563 of 615 Old 08-21-2008, 07:56 AM
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Anyone hear or heard of a start-up chirping noise that sounds sort of like a fan but doesn't act like a fan noise? Of course this won't be easy to describe but here goes: I hit the on button and projector starts to power up, noiselessly, until the bulb kicks on with a soft snap at which time the chirping starts. It begins rather pronounced then fades. Sometimes the chirping goes completely away, at other times it quiets to an intermittent chirp. In all cases, after a few minutes it begins to pick up in intensity until it's distracting and won't go away until the pj is turned off.

I used to be able to turn the pj off, wait about 10-12 seconds, turn it back on and the chirping would go away for quite awhile. It doesn't go away anymore and seems to be affected by turning the pj on and off multiple times.

The hard start modification was installed by Sony quite a while ago, (April 2007 I think), and the current bulb has about 700 hours on it.

Any thoughts anybody? I am about to take it down, remove and reinstall the bulb, WITHOUT releasing the xenon gas. I know this will probably reset the bulb hour counter but so what....I need this noise to go away.

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post #564 of 615 Old 08-21-2008, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkmw View Post

Anyone hear or heard of a start-up chirping noise that sounds sort of like a fan but doesn't act like a fan noise? Of course this won't be easy to describe but here goes: I hit the on button and projector starts to power up, noiselessly, until the bulb kicks on with a soft snap at which time the chirping starts. It begins rather pronounced then fades. Sometimes the chirping goes completely away, at other times it quiets to an intermittent chirp. In all cases, after a few minutes it begins to pick up in intensity until it's distracting and won't go away until the pj is turned off.

I used to be able to turn the pj off, wait about 10-12 seconds, turn it back on and the chirping would go away for quite awhile. It doesn't go away anymore and seems to be affected by turning the pj on and off multiple times.

The hard start modification was installed by Sony quite a while ago, (April 2007 I think), and the current bulb has about 700 hours on it.

Any thoughts anybody? I am about to take it down, remove and reinstall the bulb, WITHOUT releasing the xenon gas. I know this will probably reset the bulb hour counter but so what....I need this noise to go away.

Do a search for cricket noise. Only fix I know of is to replace the lamp. I had to do it too.
____
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post #565 of 615 Old 08-21-2008, 02:52 PM
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go figure....'cricket noise'. Lord knows I searched on everything else. Thank You!

just curious, do you know what causes the noise?

Life's a Beach,
or at least it was supposed to be.

My theater in my Wife's house.
DIYer Takes Over Home

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post #566 of 615 Old 08-21-2008, 03:58 PM
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See this link: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post10088970.
I had the same issue. A new bulb fixed the noise for a while. It came back after a couple hundred hours, now have close to two thousand hours on second bulb and I live with crickets
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post #567 of 615 Old 08-21-2008, 06:03 PM
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Thanks Stu,

I've been out of the loop, (home remodeling, but guess which room came first) for a while and Really appreciate the heads-up. Found everything I needed in the thread you sent and am now ready to replace just the module.

mark

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post #568 of 615 Old 02-10-2009, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

I think things must be moving around in the archive because I had it booked marked as well and now its gone. Here is Rics original Ruby Calibration thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...y+service+code

Luckily I did make a copy of my post on the iris tweak from the archive last time I found it and here it is:

The following is a DIY, when ever in the service menu proceed at your own risk as you may cause damage to your projector !


Alan Gouger
re in the good ole USA
Posts: 14,718

A simple adjustment will turn your Ruby into a light canon.
Anyone complaining about the Ruby not having enough light your going to like this simple adjustment in the service menu.


Out of the box "Iris off" is brighter then "Iris Auto"...were going to change that.

Do not worry about the change we are about to make in the service menu. When you power down the projector and power it back on for the next viewing it will default back to factory settings unless while your in the service menu you choose to save to memory after your done making your changes so this is a harmless experiment

Do not choose "save to memory"

Make sure your projector is set to "Iris Auto"
This tweak will only effect the " Iris Auto" mode.

Go into service mode: On the remote hit enter, enter, left, enter, up.

Now pull up the menu and go to the very bottom selection and right courser.
Now go to "Other"
Now go to number 44. For safety right down the default setting. Were only going to change number 44. Do not change anything else. After you have written down the factor setting change it to 100.
Now back out of the menu without doing a save.

You should now have one hell of a bright picture. Blacks are still excellent.
Now toggle between Iris off and Auto Iris and you will not believe how dim Iris off is yet that use to be the bright mode. You will have a hard time going back to the default setting.

Give it a try. Let me know what you think.

__________________

I have lost the normal settings of my Ruby (and the new one's too) after it went to Sony Prime. Could somebody tell me what the normal 43 and 44 values are, out of the box?

I like my HT, wine and pretty girls. But...am I the only one
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post #569 of 615 Old 02-10-2009, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indieke2 View Post

I have lost the normal settings of my Ruby (and the new one's too) after it went to Sony Prime. Could somebody tell me what the normal 43 and 44 values are, out of the box?

Hi, my Ruby's stock values are: 43 = 271, 44 = 544.

Try also these instead: 43 = 250, 44 = 440. Those work best for me! Don't try that light cannon setting of 44 = 100. It washes out most of the whites and makes the iris to function only in a really dark scene.

Compare the "Auto iris" and "Iris off" settings and adjust #44 until you get equal brightness on both. That's it!
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post #570 of 615 Old 02-10-2009, 11:41 PM
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I must say, that I think the lamp is not in very good condition. The unit went to Sony for the "cricket sound". They did a lamp reset, but I think I must be around 1500 hours.

The unit they borrowed me, 300 lamp hours, was much brighter and the 44 setting could be much higher. I also have the impression that not all the settings of all units are the same....

I want to replace the lamp, have bought a new one on ebay, but I am so afraid to do something wron, and ruin my ruby...

Thanks for your feedback

I like my HT, wine and pretty girls. But...am I the only one
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