The official Ruby Calibration Q/A Thread - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Li On View Post

Something is seriously wrong with the Ruby auto iris operation.

Attached 2 pictures with a paused DVD image. One with iris OFF and the other in AUTO. All else setting the same.

regards,

Li On

I have seen that artifact on a Ruby, where Iris Auto causes highlights to have bluish splotches. You could try lowering the Contrast until the bluish splotches go away, although it would make the image dimmer overall.
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post #182 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 08:01 AM
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I guess so. And it seems no solution for the problem yet. And my capture was from a still image. There is NO way that a simple iris aperture change could cause such difference. Sony MUST add some weird image processing to get the effect of so called 15000:1 on/off contrast in AI. The result looks like some ugly cheat IMO.

regards,

Li On
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post #183 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Li On View Post

The result looks like some ugly cheat IMO.

I don't know what you are doing wrong, but did you try to tweak it at least for 2 minutes before taking those shots? My Ruby doesn't do anything like that. What I see now in my room is better then those photos. And those screenshots were taken before doing a full-blown calibration.



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post #184 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 08:42 AM
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Li On

That is the trade off for using the Iris in Auto mode. Try watching Jay Leno in HD. When I posted this same question about the clipping in faces Greg Rogers mentioned this will happen where there are bright light shining on the face like on the tonight show from the stage lights. Its really bad. For really dark movies the auto iris is great. I turn it off for sports and TV and bright movies.

Turning down the contrast to 60 or 50 will eliminate this but then the picture looks terrible and the punchy contrast is gone. This is why this machine needs a brighter bulb. Then we would have the head room needed to counter this phenomena. There is talk the next Ruby will be better optimized for this and have a bulb twice the wattage.
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post #185 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 09:02 AM
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Calibration? Is DVE BTB/WTW ramp pattern calibrated good for you? RCP Off, Black Adj Off, Gamma Off, Sharpness Min, Contrast 78 (default 80), Brightness 50 (default), Color Temp Middle, HDMI 1080P 1:1 mapping input.

Btw, the HS60 has no such artifact in AI.

regards,

Li On
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post #186 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 09:35 AM
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Li On

You are not doing anything wrong. You will not be able to 100% eliminate this unfortunately. Nature of the beast. Someone mentioned using the gamma software that comes with the Ruby can help improve this but you will have to experiment with different curves.
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post #187 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 09:40 AM
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The Perfect Vision review suggested reducing contrast to upper 60s/low 70s, but the Widescreen Review article seemed to keep it at the default of 80. What are others doing with the contrast setting and does this interact with the gamma setting?

I have a 119" Da-Lite Power and a ruby with a barely used bulb, projector distance of about 18 feet from the screen and I find that I need to turn brightness way down from the default with DirecTV HD to reduce compression artifacts when viewing in a dark room. I had gamma off, but am going to try gamma 3. Have not gotten an ND filter yet, but plan to.

Does the high-gain High Power screen also reduce the brightness compression problem?

Does brightness compression negate the value of the auto-iris, making it better to use the iris on setting in general or only for bright movies or sports with room lights on?

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post #188 of 615 Old 03-13-2006, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Regardless what Ive done, complete calibration I have yet to be able eliminate this phenomena. I love the blacks using the projector in Auto Iris mode but seeing this effect, I have decided to only use auto iris on dark movies only. When watching tv shows likes like Jay Leno its terrible and MUST be turned off as mention by Greg Rogers.
If the use of this software does indeed eliminate this I will be in heaven but I do not have high hopes unless I see this for myself. Ive talked with Daren who has used this and he still gets the clipping.

It might be that I buy a Ruby from one of the dealers the guys from cine4home are working for and I will ask them for the tweak...
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post #189 of 615 Old 03-29-2006, 08:08 AM
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I have 246 hrs on my Ruby. Initially I had Brightness at 46 and Contrast at 75 (usig Avia) for a really gorgeous picture with deep blacks. Seemingly overnight the dvd images (Meridian G98 via Faroudja NRS) became very washed out. Using Avia again my new settings are 23 and 65, respectively. Has anyone else seen anything like this?
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post #190 of 615 Old 03-30-2006, 02:56 PM
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Might this have to do with the particular dvd or does this apply to ones you viewed before?

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post #191 of 615 Old 04-01-2006, 11:48 AM
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This thread will serve as THE Sony Ruby calibration and tweak thread. A one stop thread that contains everything needed to calibrate and tweak your Sony Ruby.


For the time being this will be a little unorganized. It will serve as a parking place
to dump copies of previous posts but with time we will edit these down in hopes to have one nice clean thread will all the goodies.

Anyone interested in handling the building of this thread would be appreciated. Please contact me.

This is a community project and we welcome your help. If you see something you feel fits this thread please send it along to be added, we appreciate it.

Any suggestions to make this more user friendly as this comes together please share your ideas.

Thank you.

Send all content to: alangouger@yahoo.com
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post #192 of 615 Old 04-01-2006, 12:10 PM
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Warning: Anyone entering the service menu you are doing so at your own risk. We hold no responsibility for the outcome. Be warned if you are not careful you can cause damage to your projector that may not be covered under warranty. Do so at your own Risk.

For those who feel adventurous and want to take advantage of some of the calibration techniques please write down all factory default settings before moving forward.

Any changes made in the service menu will default back to stock setting on next power up and will not be saved unless:

1. You high lite the save option in the service menu and press enter.

2. If you do not let the Sony go through the entire power down cycle.

The Sony has a strike hot bulb that allows you to turn the projector back on again during cycle down mode. If you have made any changes in the service menu that you do not want to keep make sure you do not turn it back on again until its completed the full shut down mode and the fan is off. If doing so the projector will maintain any changes made to the service menu.


To enter the service menu on the remote press the following sequence.
Enter Enter Left Enter ( the on screen prompt appears ) Up.

You will now see two additional menus at the bottom of the menu tree.
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post #193 of 615 Old 04-01-2006, 12:11 PM
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A great thread by Ric ( lovingdvd ) with tons of great info that will be extracted over time.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...by+calibration
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post #194 of 615 Old 04-01-2006, 12:13 PM
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Some good extracts sent to us by ken liles .

1) post 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Anyone complaining about the Ruby not having enough light your going to like this simple adjustment in the service menu.




Out of the box "Iris off" is brighter then "Iris Auto"...were going to change that.


Do not worry about the change we are about to make in the service menu. When you power down the projector and power it back on for the next viewing it will default back to factory settings unless while your in the service menu you choose to save to memory after your done making your changes so this is a harmless experiment


Do not choose "save to memory"


Make sure your projector is set to "Iris Auto"
This tweak will only effect the " Iris Auto" mode.


Go into service mode: On the remote hit enter, enter, left, enter, up.


Now pull up the menu and go to the very bottom selection and right courser.
Now go to "Other"
Now go to number 44. For safety right down the default setting. Were only going to change number 44. Do not change anything else. After you have written down the factor setting change it to 100.
Now back out of the menu without doing a save.


You should now have one hell of a bright picture. Blacks are still excellent.
Now toggle between Iris off and Auto Iris and you will not believe how dim Iris off is yet that use to be the bright mode. You will have a hard time going back to the default setting.


Give it a try. Let me know what you think.






2) post 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Sorel View Post

Ok, for those of you who insist on some numbers, here they are:
My lamp has 122 hours on it, and I measured lux with an AccuPel 3000 connected to the DVI input. My default values were:
#43 - 364
#44 - 613
Darin's settings:
#43 - 140
#44 - 700
Alan's settings:
#43 - 364 (my default)
#44 - 100
My modified version of Darin's and Alan's settings combined:
#43 - 140
#44 - 100
I measured first with a full 100% white field in auto iris mode. Here are the numbers:
My defaults - 95 lux
Darin's settings - 95 lux
Alan's settings - 95 lux
My modified settings: - 95 lux
So we can see that maximum output is not affected with any of the settings.
Now here is the interesting set of numbers. I took a set of readings with a 100% window within a black field, and my guess is that it is around 25% APL (average picture level) based on the size of the window:
My defaults - 42 lux
Darin's settings - 38 lux
Alan's settings - 98 lux
My modified settings: - 98 lux
Hmmm...there is definitely something going on here, but I don't have enough experience to know what, but I suspect that Bytehoven is on the right track with a modification to the gamma curve, and there seems to even be slightly more maximum light output with simultaneous lower APLs...
There is no doubt about it, the picture looks MUCH brighter, but I haven't looked at the results for more than about 5 minutes so far, so I can't tell you much more than that. I certainly plan on playing with this a LOT more and testing it under lots of different conditions, so I won't comment any further until I get a chance to play with it.
Great find, Alan!


3) post 188
from Bob Sorel -
Ok, here's some hard numbers on my Ruby lamp, which I posted elsewhere in the forum:


Quote:
Ok, just so I have my lamp data in one place, here's how my lamp has been to date:


0 hours - 164 lux - 0% brightness loss
30 hours - 137 lux - 16.46% brightness loss
50 hours - 127 lux - 22.56% brightness loss
70 hours - 127 lux - 22.56% brightness loss (this is not a typo)
*87 hours - 120 lux - 26.83% brightness loss - DVI input
*87 hours - 107 lux - unknown brightness loss - HDMI input
**97 hours - 102 lux - 37.80% brightness loss
150 hours - 91 lux - 44.51% brightness loss


* - These were the last two readings I took just before calibration. At the time I planned on calibrating both the DVI and HDMI inputs, but once we saw the gamma problems with HDMI, as well as the lower light output, we canned that idea and calibrated the DVI input only. Unless I figure out why the auto iris behaves so strangely with the HDMI input (the gamma was fine in the iris off position), I have no plans on using it.


** - This is the first measurement after calibration, so some of the light loss may have been caused by the calibration process itself, though I doubt that it accounts for all of it.





Edit on 3/23/06 to reflect latest lux reading.



4) post 254


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

I talked to him yesterday. He prefers his tweak for the most contrast. This tweak does have its drawback, dropping 43 slows down the speed of the iris. You can see it changing when going from a dark transition to a bright scene. The bright scene keeps getting brighter until the iris hits its targeted position.


If you want the best blacks Darins tweak is the best.


You can take 44 on its own and raise the number for deeper blacks without the side effect of dropping 43 but the image may be to dark for some. Those who say they have have plenty of brightness or the image is to bright, this may be the ideal adjustment for you to try.


I now prefer to set 44 around 350 to 400 and drop 43 to 200. While I can see the iris changing between dark to bright scenes I find this a good compromise between the two tweaks.


The contrast from my tweak was much lower to his tweak but said while the numbers are large our eyes will not see this as a big difference.


I never touted my tweak as having the best contrast only adding brightness.
Those who have tried this mentioned it still maintains excellent blacks and could only detect a slight raise in black level.


What is nice is we have the flexibility to dial something that fits our personal taste and needs. For those wanting 3 chip DLP kick or those wanting the max black this machine can offer there is an option from one extreme to the other.


The Ruby offers a lot more flexibility then what is offered out of the box. Because these tweaks take all of 2 minutes give them a try and see what works best for you. Its fun and gives everyone the opportunity to see what this machine can really do.


5) post 255


Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd
Actually Darin's tweak calls for RAISING #44 to 700 (not leaving it at the default) and setting #43 to 140.


What I am very interested to hear is that, given this discovery about #44, whether Darin still prefers his original tweak, the tweaks talks about in this thread, or perhaps some new combination.

I'm now at 140 for #43 and 650 for #44. I was looking in the lens and couldn't see any difference in how open the iris was between 650 and 700 just by looking at it. In the past I held a small object up there and maybe there is a small difference in how open it is between those, but figured I would compromise a little. I measured about 20,500:1 after calibration that way in the center of the screen (corners are brighter on full screen video black). That probably isn't much different than with 700 for #44 since the iris is in close to the same position and this was after calibration with contrast at 70.


I don't have the exact numbers with me, but with contrast at 65, #43 at 350 or 250 and #44 at 350 the on/off CRs I measured were something like 2500:1 or a little lower, or about like iris Off. That is on my Ruby of course. I haven't seen the saturation feature that one of the 3 chip DLPs has, but maybe this tweak is something like that, where midtones get raised up in mixed images even if the endpoints are unaffected.


--Darin





6) post 257


Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

IIRC you measured close to 30,000:1 with 140/700, and now are measuring 20,000:1 with 140/650. Perhaps the difference then between 650 and 700 is more than what the iris appears to be doing when watching it? Although some would argue you cannot really see the difference between 20,000:1 and 30,000:1 I'd think there would be some subtle differences in perceived depth, possibly.


Alan - yes at 700 I definately see the effect of the iris being very slow on certain transitional scenes. However this doesn't bother me for some reason. Perhaps its because I mostly notice it when switching between sources or having a sudden and dramatic APL change.


7) post 281


Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I just now had a chance to catch up on this thread. Have I got the following correct?

  • For good contrast and black-level, Darin likes #43:140, #44:650, contrast:70 on his projector which he measures an on/off CR of 20,500:1.
  • For brightness and reduction in BC Alan likes #43:200, #44:350, contrast:65. With a setting close to Alan's of #43:250, #44:350, Darin measured on/off CR of 2500:1.
It is great that we have the option of choosing the tradeoff between brightness and CR. I am surprised, though, that after years of CR being the number 1 concern that people are happy to trade an 8 fold drop in CR for an increase in brightness.

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post #195 of 615 Old 04-01-2006, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregr View Post

OK, I finally found my note today about the vertical edge enhancement settings. I sent these to Ric earlier tonight so he could check my scribbled note against his Ruby menus.

I found 3 service (factory) menu settings related to the vertical edge enhancement that degraded spatial "pixel perfection". Remember in my review that I said there was both slight vertical edge enhancement and horizontal edge enhancement. I didn't find a way to completely disable the horizontal edge enhancement, but one of these controls did eliminate the vertical edge enhancement. It's been several months now, so my memory may be faulty about which of the 3 controls did the trick, but I think it was setting item #19 to zero that did it. I believe item #8 is either on or off, and the item I used was variable. Anyway, for sure, it was one of these 3 controls.

8 IP-VS 0 is off, default 1 is on
18 IP-VS LIMIT default 64
19 IP-VS CORE 4

If you try playing with these settings be sure you test their effects with sharp (unscaled) 1080i horizontal lines (from a test generator or PC). I believe the same effects applied to 1080p signals.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gregr View Post

Alan,

I previously posted the following in another thread after I "thought" I had finally found the relevant page of notes on the edge enhancement issue:

I found 3 service (factory) menu settings related to the vertical edge enhancement that degraded spatial "pixel perfection". Remember in my review that I said there was both slight vertical edge enhancement and horizontal edge enhancement. I didn't find a way to completely disable the horizontal edge enhancement, but one of these controls did eliminate the vertical edge enhancement. It's been several months now, so my memory may be faulty about which of the 3 controls did the trick, but I think it was setting item #19 to zero that did it. I believe item #8 is either on or off, and the item I used was variable. Anyway, for sure, it was one of these 3 controls.

8 IP-VS 0 is off, default 1 is on
18 IP-VS LIMIT default 64
19 IP-VS CORE 4

If you try playing with these settings be sure you test their effects with sharp (unscaled) 1080i horizontal lines (from a test generator or PC). I believe the same effects applied to 1080p signals.

It looks like you have another item, #5 in the I/P menu. I'm sorry my memory has been so bad on this issue, but its been several months and several projectors ago. Now I don't know if I used #5 (which might be why I didn't keep the original note) or used #18 or #19. Does #5 disable the horizontal edge enhancement (outlining around vertical lines) and/or vertical edge enhancement (outlining around horizontal lines). Perhaps you need both #5 and #18/#19 to eliminate both (I hadn't found a way to eliminate the horizontal edge enhancement)?


The following all effected vertical enhancement as you said.

8 IP-VS 0 is off, default 1 is on I turned this to 0= off.
18 IP-VS LIMIT default 64 I set this to 0
19 IP-VS CORE 4 Not sure I saw this doing anything but set it to 0 anyway.

Number 5 seams to also work for vertical ( I still see a little EE on vertical lines) but its hard for me to tell. I do not have any test discs and Jason borrowed my AccuPel again and he is on vacation this week

Maybe some else can do some testing and see what is going on. Setting 5 to 0 did soften the image.

The following all effected vertical enhancement as you said.

8 IP-VS 0 is off, default 1 is on I turned this to 0= off.
18 IP-VS LIMIT default 64 I set this to 0
19 IP-VS CORE 4 Not sure I saw this doing anything but set it to 0 anyway.

Number 5 seams to also work for vertical ( I still see a little EE on vertical lines) but its hard for me to tell. I do not have any test discs and Jason borrowed my AccuPel again and he is on vacation this week

Maybe some else can do some testing and see what is going on. Setting 5 to 0 did soften the image.

The following all effected vertical enhancement as you said.

8 IP-VS 0 is off, default 1 is on I turned this to 0= off.
18 IP-VS LIMIT default 64 I set this to 0
19 IP-VS CORE 4 Not sure I saw this doing anything but set it to 0 anyway.

Number 5 seams to also work for vertical ( I still see a little EE on vertical lines) but its hard for me to tell. I do not have any test discs and Jason borrowed my AccuPel again and he is on vacation this week

Maybe some else can do some testing and see what is going on. Setting 5 to 0 did soften the image.

The following all effected vertical enhancement as you said.

8 IP-VS 0 is off, default 1 is on I turned this to 0= off.
18 IP-VS LIMIT default 64 I set this to 0
19 IP-VS CORE 4 Not sure I saw this doing anything but set it to 0 anyway.

Number 5 seams to also work for vertical ( I still see a little EE on vertical lines) but its hard for me to tell. I do not have any test discs and Jason borrowed my AccuPel again and he is on vacation this week

Maybe some else can do some testing and see what is going on. Setting 5 to 0 did soften the image.


Maybe Greg Rogers can jump in here but Im sure I fiound what weve been looking for.
Enter the Fac menu, enter enter left enter up. Go to I/P. Scroll to #5 ip/sharp limit.

Mine was default at 255. I set it to 0. It was not a huge difference but I tested one scene where I always had ringing even with the sharpness set to 0 on the projector. The ringing is now gone.

[quote=gregr]I would start by calibrating the Iris Off grayscale and the Iris On grayscale using normal window patterns. But then you must calibrate the Auto Iris grayscale using both full fields and window patterns. (You should calibrate using Contrast 80, Brightness 50 for all modes using standard 16-235 video signals.) You can start by first copying the calibrated Iris Off grayscale calibration settings to the Auto Iris mode as a starting point. The iris aperture will be open on 100 IRE and 75 IRE full fields, so you must ensure that the grayscale is corrected for those patterns. I would shoot for near 0 dE error at 75 IRE full field and 3 dE or less at 100 IRE full field. But then you must check the full range of 10-100 IRE window patterns and make sure the low end of the grayscale is calibrated on a 10 IRE window pattern. I would also check below 10 IRE window patterns and a 1-10 IRE 10-step pattern if you have them to make sure the grayscale doesn't become significantly green or red below 10 IRE. Then check a 10-step 10-100 IRE grayscale pattern (which will partially close down the iris aperture) and make sure there is no visible grayscale variation on those steps. You should also make sure that 0% APL, 25% APL, and 50% APL black-level PLUGE patterns have the correct black level, and a 50% APL white-level PLUGE pattern (such as a 98 IRE stripe against a 100 IRE half-frame background) is just visible (which ensures there is no white level clipping).


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ge+enhancement
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post #196 of 615 Old 04-08-2006, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Now that my Ruby has 225 hour on it, I decided to tweak the grayscale from my last calibration (last performed at about 100 hours).

Here are the results:

Contrast: 80
Brightness: 50
Color: 50
Color space: Normal
RCP: On, with all numbers set to 0
Picture mode: Standard (not the default of Dynamic)
Sharpness: 50

Iris: AUTO
Gain: 97, 110, 128 (R,G,B)
Bias: 129,124,126

Iris: OFF
Gain: 97,111,127
Bias: 130,126,130

Note that I do not use the iris ON position, so this was not calibrated.

With both the above calibrations I have D65 within a dE of 3 from 10-100. This is the case even with iris AUTO with both full fields and windows.

I was also surprised I was able to accurately and consistently measure 5 IRE, and that it had a dE of 8 (slightly red) at that level. I consider that very good, and there's no way to dial that in any better without sacrificing 10-40 IRE.

This was performed with Darin's service menu tweaks #43/#44 to 140/700.

More details: Since dE does not always tell the whole picture, here is a break out of % R/G/B and dE at each IRE with iris set to AUTO:

First, as measured using full fields

IRE: dE / %R %G %B
10: 3 / 101 99 103
20: 1 / 100 100 102
30: 1 / 99 100 100
40: 3 / 101 99 103
50: 2 / 101 100 101
60: 2 / 101 100 102
70: 2 / 102 99 102
80: 2 / 101 99 102
90: 2 / 101 100 101
100: 2 / 102 99 99

Next, as measured with window patterns: (different than full fields due to auto iris):

IRE: dE / %R %G %B
10: 3 / 101 99 103
20: 2 / 99 101 99
30: 2 / 98 100 101
40: 2 / 98 101 100
50: 1 / 99 100 101
60: 1 / 99 100 101
70: 2 / 98 100 101
80: 1 / 98 100 100
90: 3 / 99 101 97
100: 3 / 101 100 97

As you can see, even within a dE of 3 I tried to steer away from green as much as possible, and favored blue when forced to err toward one side.

For those without instrumentation you may want to try these numbers and see how it looks on your unit.

Note: I've seen many posts about people lowering Contrast into the 40s - low 70s to minimize or eliminate brightness compression (BC). Although I do see BC rarely, its not bothersome to me. If you do lower CR, just be sure you realize that you are significantly lowering your CR as a result (also as pointed out by GregR). Everything has its tradeoffs so you'll need to decide which is more important to you.

Regarding Color and RCP - My equipment (ColorFacts 6 with SpyderTV and EyeOne Beamer) cannot properly measure primaries and secondaries. Therefore I am unable to tweak this. However I did turn RCP on and kept the numbers at zero, rather than just turned it off. This is because just the act of turning RCP on chagnes the grayscale a bit. So this way if I want to tweak RCP in the future I can without affecting grayscale. Likewise I left Color at the default. Overall the image is a bit oversaturated, but with the Ruby's vivid colors I sorta like it this way anyway.

Regarding Sharpness - 50 definately has ringing and there are ways to to minimize it even beyond changing this to 0 (by using the service menu - see Alan's tweak thread for details). However I feel the Ruby's image overall is a bit too soft, so even though the sharpness this control adds is artificial, I still prefer it - at least with most programming material.

Hope you guys find this info useful. Questions and comments always welcome.

Note: Edited to add Sharpness, RCP and Color settings and related commentary.
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post #197 of 615 Old 05-03-2006, 06:30 PM
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Ok, so #44 seems to control how much brighter/brilliant the image appears, but what does option #43 do ???
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post #198 of 615 Old 05-03-2006, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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IIRC #43 controls how much the iris clamps down in dark scenes, whereas #44 controls how much it opens up in bright scenes. Could be off base here though. Darin?
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post #199 of 615 Old 05-03-2006, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

IIRC #43 controls how much the iris clamps down in dark scenes, whereas #44 controls how much it opens up in bright scenes. Could be off base here though. Darin?

What I found is that a lower number for #43 would mean that images had to be darker before the iris would start to close (higher would mean the iris would be more aggressive about where it started to close) and a higher number for #44 would make the minimum iris position be smaller (darker). At least to about 650 to 700 for #44 where the iris would be at the smallest possible for a blackout and so going to a higher number wouldn't lower the absolute black level.

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post #200 of 615 Old 05-06-2006, 10:47 AM
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Say those who are using a Lumagen with the Ruby (Alan?) is there any problems getting 1 to 1 mapping? The guys are Lumagen are getting a Ruby shortly. They had heard there was some difficulty?. We used one with an 004 Qualia with beautiful results. Thanks
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post #201 of 615 Old 05-06-2006, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

What I found is that a lower number for #43 would mean that images had to be darker before the iris would start to close (higher would mean the iris would be more aggressive about where it started to close) and a higher number for #44 would make the minimum iris position be smaller (darker). At least to about 650 to 700 for #44 where the iris would be at the smallest possible for a blackout and so going to a higher number wouldn't lower the absolute black level.

--Darin

Darin - A month or so ago IIRC I read a post where you mentioned going with 650 for #44 instead of 700. I'm still running with 700, mainly because you mentioned you measured about 22000:1 with 650, yet months ago you had close to 30000:1 at 700.

Do you believe that indeed there is any perceivable advantage with 700 vs 650? If not I might as well move #44 down to 650 and pick up some additional brightness. I don't feel I actually need any additional brightness at the moment (about 300 hours and roughly 18 fL I estimate), but at the same time if using 700 isn't buying me anything I might as well go brighter. Thanks.
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post #202 of 615 Old 05-07-2006, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ddingle View Post

Say those who are using a Lumagen with the Ruby (Alan?) is there any problems getting 1 to 1 mapping? The guys are Lumagen are getting a Ruby shortly. They had heard there was some difficulty?. We used one with an 004 Qualia with beautiful results. Thanks

I have sold approx 18 Rubies and at least 11 are running Lumagens with 1:1 mapping no issues at all simply bang in 1080p, no other changes required for exact mapping
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post #203 of 615 Old 05-07-2006, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliot View Post

I have sold approx 18 Rubies and at least 11 are running Lumagens with 1:1 mapping no issues at all simply bang in 1080p, no other changes required for exact mapping

Thanks Elliot! Looking forward to trying the combination in our demo facility.
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post #204 of 615 Old 05-07-2006, 09:33 AM
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ddingle, Im jumping in late here, sorry. The latest software updates have truly elevated the Lumagen to new levels. Im enjoying 48hz playback along with superior 1080i deinterlacing allowing me to squeeze further performance and enjoyment out of my Ruby. I am having no trouble with 1:1 mapping. Using the Lumis internal test pattern or running my acupel through the Ruby allowed me to confirm this. If you indeed end up getting the Lumagen update us the results on your end. Thanks.
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post #205 of 615 Old 05-10-2006, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Darin - A month or so ago IIRC I read a post where you mentioned going with 650 for #44 instead of 700. I'm still running with 700, mainly because you mentioned you measured about 22000:1 with 650, yet months ago you had close to 30000:1 at 700.

Do you believe that indeed there is any perceivable advantage with 700 vs 650? If not I might as well move #44 down to 650 and pick up some additional brightness. I don't feel I actually need any additional brightness at the moment (about 300 hours and roughly 18 fL I estimate), but at the same time if using 700 isn't buying me anything I might as well go brighter. Thanks.

The reason I went to 650 is that while looking into the lens at the iris size I couldn't see any difference between 650 and 700. I think a lot of my difference in those measured CRs was from calibrating my Ruby (the 30k:1 was uncalibrated as I had mentioned), but it is possible that there was a small difference between 650 and 700 and it was just hard to tell that the iris had gotten smaller. If there is a difference, the whites wouldn't get any brighter or dimmer between 650 and 700 in the brightest stuff, just in the stuff that is dark enough overall to get the iris to close down to the minimum.

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post #206 of 615 Old 05-11-2006, 06:12 AM
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someone please recap, what setting does the most to decrease EE?

thanks
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post #207 of 615 Old 05-11-2006, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darinp2 View Post

The reason I went to 650 is that while looking into the lens at the iris size I couldn't see any difference between 650 and 700. I think a lot of my difference in those measured CRs was from calibrating my Ruby (the 30k:1 was uncalibrated as I had mentioned), but it is possible that there was a small difference between 650 and 700 and it was just hard to tell that the iris had gotten smaller. If there is a difference, the whites wouldn't get any brighter or dimmer between 650 and 700 in the brightest stuff, just in the stuff that is dark enough overall to get the iris to close down to the minimum.

--Darin

So am I understanding correctly that you are saying the only difference between 650 and 700 is that at 650 the image would be a bit brighter on the darkest scenes?

If you have a chance I'd be curious to know what the difference is in CR that you measure between changing from 650 to 700, without changing any thing else - just to know if it indeed does make a difference or if the difference you originally measured was due to calibration.
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post #208 of 615 Old 05-11-2006, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

ddingle, Im jumping in late here, sorry. The latest software updates have truly elevated the Lumagen to new levels. Im enjoying 48hz playback along with superior 1080i deinterlacing allowing me to squeeze further performance and enjoyment out of my Ruby. I am having no trouble with 1:1 mapping. Using the Lumis internal test pattern or running my acupel through the Ruby allowed me to confirm this. If you indeed end up getting the Lumagen update us the results on your end. Thanks.

Alan,

Do you know if anyone figured out how to get the Ruby to accept video levels over DVI @ 48Hz instead of PC levels? Does connecting via HDMI make any difference?

I must say that the Lumagen/Ruby combo looks nice. I select between two output configs: 48Hz for film-based DVDs and 60Hz for video-based DVDs. PAL film-based DVDs ought to look best at 48Hz as well, right? If I ever buy a PAL video-based DVD I'll simply create a 50Hz config.
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post #209 of 615 Old 05-21-2006, 05:07 PM
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I wanted to bring this thread back to the top now that I finally have my Ruby. I am wondering how many of you are running the Ruby is High Altitude mode. The fan noise is so much lower than any previous PJ I have had, I find that it is not objectionable at all. If I run into some real quiet movies or shows, I just switch it back but honestly I do not feel I ever need to. The main issue is shouldn't this help extend bulb life and maybe help keep lumen output higher throughout the life of the bulb? Thoughts?

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post #210 of 615 Old 05-22-2006, 07:23 AM
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I wanted to bring this thread back to the top now that I finally have my Ruby. I am wondering how many of you are running the Ruby is High Altitude mode. The fan noise is so much lower than any previous PJ I have had, I find that it is not objectionable at all. If I run into some real quiet movies or shows, I just switch it back but honestly I do not feel I ever need to. The main issue is shouldn't this help extend bulb life and maybe help keep lumen output higher throughout the life of the bulb? Thoughts?

I have read so much in the Ruby forums about how heat buildup affects bulb life and decreasing lumen levels that I took another approach I thought I'd offer here.

I tried the HA mode and wasn't unhappy with the increase in fan noise but it did become more noticeable, especially for the viewers in my back row of seats that sit directly under the Ruby.

Instead, I put a 4 x 10 hvac return duct in the ceiling just behind the ruby where it blows the hot exhaust air. I connected the 4 x 10 to 6" round RA galvanized connector to a 12' length of flexible, insulated, (sound absorbing), ductwork. I ran this to a remotely mounted squirrel cage blower that is extremely quiet by nature and which sucks a significant amount of hot air from behind the Ruby. (The blower is mounted in the attic roof rafters over the ceiling of the next room over. Mounting it to the rafters also reduced or removed any vibration associated with the fan running at full speed.)

My thought was that this additional flow from behind the Ruby would help increase the circulation Through the Ruby without adding a single dB of noise. Indeed, I have lowered the ambient temperature of the room by at least 2 - 3 degrees. For convenience, I have connected a variable speed switch to a nearby wall switchplate but I leave it on full when the Ruby is running as there is no noise from the installation.

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or at least it was supposed to be.

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