H79--Very Dim at Only 350 Hrs. - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FerretHunter View Post

The "new" unit has a serial number starting with 081E522. So it was made in the 22nd week of last year. Has it really been sitting around "new" for 11 months or so? Should I bring this up with Optoma?

Does anyone know if its' possible to check the total number of hours on the projector?

Service menu shows total hours, but i know service can set all counters to zero if they want. You'll find instructions how to enter service menu in H7x threads.

If your pj has worn looking connectors it is probably refurb or if it really has only 9 hours total it may have been a demo unit. If it is refurb it may have a lot of new parts inside so it may be very close to new. I believe Optoma has right to choose if they give refurb or new unit unless your original projector wasn't only couple weeks old. Was it packed in thin foam wrapping inside transparent plastic bag, or only pink plastic bag?
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post #182 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 09:03 AM
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Pink plastic bag.

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post #183 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FerretHunter View Post

Pink plastic bag.

It's most likely refurb. Original factory packing is thin white foam wrapping inside transparent plastic bag.
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post #184 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FerretHunter View Post

The serial number of my first H79 starts out as 081L505.

The "new" unit has a serial number starting with 081E522. So it was made in the 22nd week of last year. Has it really been sitting around "new" for 11 months or so? Should I bring this up with Optoma?

My first unit's serial number was also 081L505. Interesting. My hot swap serial number started with O81L517 so if we're right about the date code that's only 12 weeks newer and I also wondered how that could be if the hot swap was new, which is what I was told. My hot swap came in a pink bag also. My hour counter was at 0hrs but the bulb was dimmer than the replacement bulb I had purchased that had 150 hours on it! 150 hour bulb was giving me a reading of 74 lux and the supposably "brand new" bulb in the hot swap only gave 72 lux. That 74 lux from the 150 hour bulb was already down 25% from new. I'm pretty sure I got a refurb unit.

Sure, ask Optoma about it. I'm curious as to their answer. Please let us know if you do.

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post #185 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BJM View Post


Sure, ask Optoma about it. I'm curious as to their answer. Please let us know if you do.

Brent

I also only had 'weeks' between the replacement and the first buy projector and also came in a pink bag. So this is normal i guess they are made in batches maybe keep units apart for this. I am sure i got a new bulb and it was the reason i posted the comment that he should check using a lux meter.

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post #186 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 03:37 PM
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I sent an e-mail to Optoma Canada about my concerns regarding the replacment unit and they called back within the hour. Every one of my concerns was addressed and I have been assured that the unit is brand new. What happened is they opened it and tested it out to make sure it was ok. That's why the connectors looked used and the projector was in a pink plastic sheet instead of the foam wrapping.

It did smell brand new when I hooked it up yesterday. I have no reason to question the Optoma rep's responses. He was very prompt and courteous. I will however check out the service menu to ensure the hours are the same as the bulb hours. But it isn't a priority.

He did confirm my understanding of the serial number encoding regarding manufacturing date.

I consider this case closed with Optoma and am a very happy customer.

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post #187 of 296 Old 04-21-2006, 04:41 PM
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Hai,

Good news, do get a lux meter and track output its a fun game

There are my new numbers at 350h

Here we go again for 300h

50 normal=429L, bright=569L
80 normal=414L, bright=540L
100 normal=379L, bright=523L
144 normal=362L, bright=506L
157 normal=358L, bright=502L
185 normal=355L, bright=494L
208 normal=350L, bright=485L
240 normal=350L, bright=481L
300 normal=338L, bright=456L
350 normal=329L, bright=431L

so 50 to 100 went down 50L
100 to 200 went down 27L
200 to 350 went down 23L

quick guess seems to me 25L loss to get to 800h and 50L to get 1600h, 75L more
to get to 3000 for total loss of about 200L or close to 50% .... this seems a little optimistic .

total loss at 350h is now 100L, My screen now is at 9lambert for low and 12 for highmode. Hope the numbers of this imho normal and correct working bulb (we still hate bulbs) will help somebody in some way.

Daniel.

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post #188 of 296 Old 04-22-2006, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FerretHunter View Post

I sent an e-mail to Optoma Canada about my concerns regarding the replacment unit and they called back within the hour. Every one of my concerns was addressed and I have been assured that the unit is brand new. What happened is they opened it and tested it out to make sure it was ok. That's why the connectors looked used and the projector was in a pink plastic sheet instead of the foam wrapping.

It did smell brand new when I hooked it up yesterday. I have no reason to question the Optoma rep's responses. He was very prompt and courteous. I will however check out the service menu to ensure the hours are the same as the bulb hours. But it isn't a priority.

He did confirm my understanding of the serial number encoding regarding manufacturing date.

I consider this case closed with Optoma and am a very happy customer.

Nice to hear that your problem is solved.

My experience with Optoma service has also been good. I had problems with my pj and i had to send it in. They fixed it and sent it back in my original box but it was in pink plastic bag instead of original foam wrapping + transparent plastic bag where i packed it in. But there was a new problem with it and they agreed to replace it with a brand new projector, which they test before sending me as soon as they received broken one.

New one came in its original box (not in the same box i sent mine in) wrapped in white foam inside transparent plastic bag (just like my first one was when i purchased it). The box and the projector had same serial number in the stickers. New projector's lamp and total hour counter in the service menu both showed 1 hour. Connectors looked like new. Also there was all new accessories with the new projector. I returned original accessories with broken projector as they requested.
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post #189 of 296 Old 04-23-2006, 07:53 AM
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Well, I'm not sure if I'm also experiencing the premature bulb issue or its the power of suggestions but.......

I had my H79 ISF'ed yesterday by Chuck Williams and he measured 6.5 ft/l on my 120" studiotek 130 screen. This equates to about 213 lumens. He then turned the bulb to high power mode and we got 8 ft/l which is about 262.

Now, this sounds like premature bulb dimming. In fact, there is no punch to the image in low power mode. I've got about 180 hours on the bulb. He used the EyeOne to calibrate with colorfacts pro (I believe).

Does this sound like the bulb dimming problems to others? Short of buying a light meter, is there anything else I can do before putting in a call to Optima?
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post #190 of 296 Old 04-23-2006, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movieguy2001 View Post

Does this sound like the bulb dimming problems to others? Short of buying a light meter, is there anything else I can do before putting in a call to Optima?

It matches my experience with two bulbs so far - there's been sufficient dimming now on bulb number two after about 200 hours to require britemode for acceptable brightness and I'm using a High Power screen viewing on axis with near 2.8 gain (admittedly with a big image at 110" wide.) You could call Optoma and maybe get a bulb for a discount that basically equals what you could get by froogling. I'm considering getting a low amp cooling fan per ideas in the threads about H79 cooling to hopefully slow down this dimming process with my third bulb now on the way.

Dan
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post #191 of 296 Old 04-23-2006, 10:10 AM
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Hmm, I was hoping to be use an H79 with a 1.4 gain 125" wide screen in a CIH 2.35 setup. Now I think maybe I need to find a different projector. It doesn't sound like this one can power a screen that large for very long.

Is anyone using a screen that large with this pj with acceptable brightness?
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post #192 of 296 Old 04-23-2006, 11:34 AM
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Projector is overhead, well ventilated, with a UPS.

I'm not a happy Optoma customer any longer.
My 1st bulb with my H/79 lasted 500 hours.
Now the 2nd replacement bulb is getting very dim at 488 Hours.
At $400.00 per bulb and none available this has become
unacceptable!

Hmmmm.. thinking about the Ruby its come down in price
but at $1000.00 for a new bulb at only 800 Lumens I'm
going to wait and see? I will bet the Ruby II has a much
less expensive bulb?

I just ordered a Sanyo PLZ-4 with a spare bulb for less than
half of what the Optoma H/79 cost me originally!

To bad Optoma screwed up here because, when the H/79 has a fresh
new bulb the picture is just excellent!
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post #193 of 296 Old 04-23-2006, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movieguy2001 View Post

Well, I'm not sure if I'm also experiencing the premature bulb issue or its the power of suggestions but.......

I had my H79 ISF'ed yesterday by Chuck Williams and he measured 6.5 ft/l on my 120" studiotek 130 screen. This equates to about 213 lumens. He then turned the bulb to high power mode and we got 8 ft/l which is about 262.

Now, this sounds like premature bulb dimming. In fact, there is no punch to the image in low power mode. I've got about 180 hours on the bulb. He used the EyeOne to calibrate with colorfacts pro (I believe).

Does this sound like the bulb dimming problems to others? Short of buying a light meter, is there anything else I can do before putting in a call to Optima?

Well you have seen my numbers, i am at 350hours and at 9 and 12 so yes this does mean your seems to be way lower than mine already.

Daniel.

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post #194 of 296 Old 04-23-2006, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielo View Post

Well you have seen my numbers, i am at 350hours and at 9 and 12 so yes this does mean your seems to be way lower than mine already.

Daniel.

Yes, I've seen your numbers. Thank you for posting it, BTW. I'm still not sure that anything is wrong through (or having a hard time accepting it). I have not had any mis-strikes on the bulb or orange flashing lights on the projector. When I asked the calibator about it, he said it seemed pretty normal and that he just calibrated a HD72 and got about 12 ft/l on high power, but that was on a smaller screen (he didnt have the numbers). This makes me wonder if the brightness he was measuring is accurate.

I just cant believe I've got this problem. I've throught I've had a dim image while watching the Sopronos and a couple of movies (before calibration and getting measurements), but thought it might be the source material. The image just lacked "pop" to it. I'm thinking I might buy a new bulb and see what that does, but what bothers me is there are no inexpensive alternatives to conslusively determining if I have the problem. I could spring for $150 for a light meter or I could spring for $340 for a new bulb. Furthermore, no one is really sure what the cause of the problem is (there are plenty of theories). So replacing the bulb could be a VERY short term fix till it happens again.

I guess I will wait a little while and see what happens with the projector. If it is problematic I can expect bright mode to dim to the point of becoming noticable pretty soon. I'm not ready to call optima yet becasue I dont want to start pestering them if there isnt an issue with my H79.
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post #195 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movieguy2001 View Post

Yes, I've seen your numbers. Thank you for posting it, BTW. I'm still not sure that anything is wrong through (or having a hard time accepting it). I have not had any mis-strikes on the bulb or orange flashing lights on the projector. When I asked the calibator about it, he said it seemed pretty normal and that he just calibrated a HD72 and got about 12 ft/l on high power, but that was on a smaller screen (he didnt have the numbers). This makes me wonder if the brightness he was measuring is accurate.

I just cant believe I've got this problem. I've throught I've had a dim image while watching the Sopronos and a couple of movies (before calibration and getting measurements), but thought it might be the source material. The image just lacked "pop" to it. I'm thinking I might buy a new bulb and see what that does, but what bothers me is there are no inexpensive alternatives to conslusively determining if I have the problem. I could spring for $150 for a light meter or I could spring for $340 for a new bulb. Furthermore, no one is really sure what the cause of the problem is (there are plenty of theories). So replacing the bulb could be a VERY short term fix till it happens again.

I guess I will wait a little while and see what happens with the projector. If it is problematic I can expect bright mode to dim to the point of becoming noticable pretty soon. I'm not ready to call optima yet becasue I dont want to start pestering them if there isnt an issue with my H79.


A light meter should be about $50 not $150, also that way you can check your new bulb if needed. I agree you should wait a few 100's to see what happens. Also im not using a small screen its 107" wide 1.2 gain.

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post #196 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 10:51 AM
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Found a light meter for $50 and made the purchase. I'll post the results when I get it.
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post #197 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 12:14 PM
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"Chuck Williams and he measured 6.5 ft/l on my 120" studiotek 130 screen

When I asked the calibator about it, he said it seemed pretty normal and that he just calibrated a HD72 and got about 12 ft/l on high power, but that was on a smaller screen (he didnt have the numbers). This makes me wonder if the brightness he was measuring is accurate."

He s/b measuring the light with the meter at the screen facing the projector. Did he use a light meter or the colorfacts Eyeone meter? Plus he should calculate the 1.3 gain onto the first measurement. Anyway this is what you do when you get the meter.

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post #198 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 01:09 PM
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He was measuring off the screen so he was not calibrating off the projector. He was using the colorfacts Eyeone meter. Can this introduce a large error in the measurements taken? Enough so that his measurments would be off by 40%? I get the 40% by using Daniel's lumen numbers at 185 hours (355) and dividing by my screen dimensions (approx 43 sq feet). Works out that I should be getting about 10.7 ft/l in low power mode (screen gain of 1.3) as opposed to the 6.5 that was getting measured). While not an exact science by any means, it does give some idea of where the difference might be.

I will measure the light as you described with the meter facing the projector at the screen. I assume this reading (in lux) then gets multipled by the number of sq meters of the screen and the screen gain to get lumens, correct?
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post #199 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 02:16 PM
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I think that will work.

I figure the american way with Ft-candles. I use a 92"X52" or 398sq ft surface screen.

The HD72 got 20.50ftc in bright mode, 20.50ftc X 398sqft = 815lumens. Pretty darn high.

I think I got 17.75ftc in bright mode on the H79 and 15.85 in econo.

Econ on the H79 15.85X398sqft = 630lumens

Also 12Ftl is considered ideal. So the 620lumens on a 1.0 gain screen is a little high.

620lumens divided by 398sqft is15.8ftl

I think the trend is most people are happier with higher than reference Ftl's.

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post #200 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 02:33 PM
 
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I have a quick question. It seems most of the problems are with H79's. I own an H77 and haven't read any comments about that unit and not as many on the H78. Any ideas?
Not as many sold? H77 owners don't frequent here? Just curious more than anything as my hours grow on my projector.
This may support the "bad batch of bulbs" theory.

Scott
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post #201 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 02:46 PM
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Scott If I remember right I got 13.85ftc in econo on the H77.

13.85X398 = 551lumens
551lumens divided by 398sqft = 13.8ftl

Really not too bad and very close to reference 12ftl on a 1.0 gain screen.

You're right not many complaints about the H77 bulbs.

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post #202 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post

I have a quick question. It seems most of the problems are with H79's. I own an H77 and haven't read any comments about that unit and not as many on the H78. Any ideas?
Not as many sold? H77 owners don't frequent here? Just curious more than anything as my hours grow on my projector.
This may support the "bad batch of bulbs" theory.

Scott

Well, the H77 had a lower factory lumen rating than the H79, so they probably had different lamps....

...and maybe with a less-hot lamp in the H77, it doesn't experience overheating problems that many of the H78/79 owners are reporting in the other threads.

In fact, some are now jury rigging extra fans around the case to help cool the lamp better on the H78/79's and have actually reported improvements with overheating problems, which seem to support a design flaw with the H78/79...at least with the lamps that they are currently using.

Fleaman
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post #203 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 05:53 PM
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Scott I guess I don't count on H77 lamp problems huh.

Dale
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post #204 of 296 Old 04-24-2006, 06:04 PM
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The H77 and H78, H79 use the same bulb (250watt UHP). It's the DC3 and H79 protocal that brought up the lumens. Actually the upgrade to the H77 brings up the lumens a little. I think people tested their same unit after the upgrade and it produced 100 more lumens.

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post #205 of 296 Old 04-25-2006, 01:18 AM
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Hai,

THe H77,H78,H78DC3 and H79 all use the same bulb and are driven the same. If there is a higher fallout on the H79 the most likely reason if you ask me is a bad batch of bulbs when they started shipping. The overheating problems that you seem to be able to fix with extra fans could work on other parts of the projector but i personally don't think it
has any effect on if you will have a fast dimming or blowup bulb. Fact is most have had problems with the projector shutting down while the bulb seems to be ok on a restart.

Daniel.

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post #206 of 296 Old 04-25-2006, 06:22 AM
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I did notice that the bulbs for the H78DC3 and H79 had a "D" at the end of the part number while the H77 had a "E". Everything about the specifications looked the same to me, but there was that difference. I'm sure someone more knowedgeable would know why.
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"D" is for Die

"E" is for Everlasting

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post #208 of 296 Old 04-25-2006, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

The H77 and H78, H79 use the same bulb (250watt UHP). It's the DC3 and H79 protocal that brought up the lumens. Actually the upgrade to the H77 brings up the lumens a little. I think people tested their same unit after the upgrade and it produced 100 more lumens.

Is Optoma still using Philips bulbs in H78DC3 and H79 like they did in H77?
Maybe change in the bulb provider could explain problems.
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post #209 of 296 Old 04-25-2006, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reincarnate View Post

Bulb life is shortened if your house loses power suddenly.
Bulb life is shortened if there are A/C fluctuations, high voltages (mine is as high as 126.0 volts) and even A/C RFI issues.

My solution was to install a Tripp-Lite SU1000XL true double conversion power generator for the video power ONLY. (Do not use for audio). I still use a regular power condition after this conversion to isolate the display, Satellite and Dvd player from each other. The audio is feed from fiber-optic cables link so there is complete isolation between the audio and video.

But if the bulb is bad, the bulb is bad. At least I think so. Good luck!

Reincarnate:

Since you took all these precautions are you satisfied that your projector's lamp life has been preserved?
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post #210 of 296 Old 04-25-2006, 10:41 AM
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Phillips makes the bulb design for the H7x. Along time ago in the bulb threads Tzugilin came out and said they work hard with the bulb designer to keep QC up. They should beat up on Phillips some more.

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