Samsung H710AE??? 4000MRSP - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 1071 Old 04-17-2006, 12:46 PM
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The H710 has a standard 15-pin Sub-D connector, meaning you can use a standard computer monitor cable. On page 58, the manual lists the supported computer resolutions. In the menu, got to "Setup" and "PC" and then select "Auto Adjustment" to automatically set the proper timing to sync with your PC (some manual adjustment may still be required).

It should look great. Try surfing the web or watching some DVDs on your laptop while you are at it. You may never be able to go back to a 15" monitor again.

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post #632 of 1071 Old 04-17-2006, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles View Post

You have that backwards with regards to clipping. Stacey's method preserves a little bit below 16 the way he describes it, ensuring that pretty much everything there is reasonably maintained.

I do agree that it can be a taste thing, because dithering on an all-16 black frame or area in an image may bother some people, for instance.

I didn't have it backwards in my mind, but I could have done a better job phrasing my point. I was trying to say that using the finer control available on most displays Bias controls to set Black can also eliminate (or at least reduce) the slight amount of clipping that can occur when setting Black with the coarser Brightness control. This is when setting Black (16,16,16) to the point where the display just stops dithering.

Stacys method might make detail just above Black slightly more visible (but not necessarily), at the expense of higher overall black levels. There is nothing unique about the Samy in this regard. The effect is the same with every digital display. The most significant factor is how large the step is from 16 to 17 in the gamma lookup tables of the display. If it is very small, then a small amount of clipping may clip it.

Personally, I struggle with this decision when setting Plasmas more than I do with DLPs. I set Black in most DLPs to the point where dithering just stops. To assess the affect, I put on a dim scene with shadow detail just above Black and view the affect of raising the Brightness control by a click. The affect varies from one display to another depending on the coarseness of the display's Brightness control and its gamma implementation.

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post #633 of 1071 Old 04-17-2006, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xswl0931 View Post

Try this: http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sams...ulator-pro.htm

As for lens shift, according to this review http://www.projectorcentral.com/samsung_sph710.htm :

"The H710 offers a lens shift range of roughly 2.5 screen heights - in other words, from neutral position, the image can be shifted 1.25 screen heights either up or down (neutral position is when the centerline of the lens and the center of the image are at the same height). This is an impressive range, and allows for excellent flexibility for placement of the projector without resorting to drop-tube ceiling mounts or tilting the projector and applying keystone correction."

Dumb question- does this mean I can mount it with a "flush mount" to an 8-foot ceiling and not need to use keystone correction to get the image to projector to a screen that might begin 3-5" lower?
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post #634 of 1071 Old 04-17-2006, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D6500Ken View Post

I would recommend that you change the screen fabric to Cinema Vision, similar in gain to the Studiotek 130. High-gain screens have hot-spotting issues, and typically have poor spectral uniformity (they reflect different wavelengths of light unevenly). This would also widen your viewing cone.


Ken Whitcomb

Ken,

I'm going to jump on the screen question too. 92" screen with Sammy, can control ambient light well, especially at night (total dark if needed). Primarily HD and DVD viewing.

Sitting 12-14 feet from screen, pretty centered, not many side viewers. Room is 13' wide and 18' feet long. 8' flat white ceiling (typical ceiling color). Walls are a putty/cement color that doesn't seem to reflect light. Again, ceiling is white, and I'll have to ceiling mount projector. Screen may start 6" from ceiling?

Was looking at a Carada screen, either a 1.0 or 1.4 gain screen.

Any advice from you Ken, or anyone else?

Thanks!

Fred
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post #635 of 1071 Old 04-17-2006, 10:25 PM
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OK, no response to these questions from before, so I will ask again (and throw in a bonus question )

- Anyone had success in displaying 48Hz (to avoid 3:2 judder) ?

- Is the lens threaded (to accept ND filters) ?

- Is it end-user firmware upgradable ?

TIA
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post #636 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 04:39 AM
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FreddyW, you may want to read this whole thread (at least that's where I think this material is), as supposedly the lens shift for the 710 isn't as great as indicated in that article. Nonetheless, what you said is correct -- you should be able to put the projector above the height of the top of the screen and not use keystone correction. I just don't remember the exact amount by which you can put the projector above the top of the screen.

Bob
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post #637 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctviggen View Post

FreddyW, you may want to read this whole thread (at least that's where I think this material is), as supposedly the lens shift for the 710 isn't as great as indicated in that article. Nonetheless, what you said is correct -- you should be able to put the projector above the height of the top of the screen and not use keystone correction. I just don't remember the exact amount by which you can put the projector above the top of the screen.

I was reading the thread. Then everything started to get blurry around page 17 and I went into information overload
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post #638 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 06:44 AM
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FreddyW: Follow this link to where you can download the user manual. That will answer your questions about screen offset.

SP-H710AE Manual

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post #639 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin R. Anderson View Post

FreddyW: Follow this link to where you can download the user manual. That will answer your questions about screen offset. Basically, the projector has a manual adjustment for offset that makes installation easy and flexible.

SP-H710AE Manual

Fair enough- thank you!
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post #640 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 08:58 AM
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FreddyW,

I'm planning on a 110" Carada for a dedicated HT with perfect light control and a midnight blue ceiling. Tested the 710AE in a friend's light-controlled (but white) theater last night on his home-brewed screen. I played with samples of the Carada gray, classic cinema white and brilliant white screen materials. To be honest, the only one that I didn't like was the gray. While I could distinguish the other two screens (CCW and BW) I didn't see any real improvement (e.g., with black levels) with the CCW. Given the favorable comparisons of the BW screen to the StudioTek130 surface (search for reviews and you'll see) and the JKP recommendation of that screen for this projector, I will be going with the BW. BTW, while I don't feel comfortable going home-made with a new dedicated theater and a projection this nice, my friend's screen looked quite good--hard to tell too much given the small size of the screen samples, but I expected more improvement over his screen than I saw.
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post #641 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 09:10 AM
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FreddyW,
Per Dave Abrams somewhere in this thread, the 710 can be mounted anywhere between 5% above to 5% below the screen. For example, if your screen is 50" high you can center the lens up to 2.5" above the top of the screen without keystoning. That is the limit of the lens shift. Dave is the official JKP expert on the 710.
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post #642 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 12:55 PM
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I got my 710 setup last night via DVI from an 8300 cable box.

I am about to set up my toshiba MT700 (same TI DLP chip) and try and use

the monoprice switcher to switch the cable box back and forth between the projectors.

The 710 has great black levels, and seems very sharp, BUT....

I am am seeing HD compression artifacts that I never saw before....

massive ones, reds that competley break - edges that look noisey, etc.

Even seeing some gradient banding that I never noticed before on my

MT700 (which is about to go back to Toshiba for a refund)

I am very sensitive to artifacts and because as a TV and film editor,

I have to be on the lookout for these as they pop up in the process of

creating spots, tv shows, videos, etc.

I am hoping that the 710 just has so much resloution that I am seeing this,

rather than the DVI vs. HDMI that the MT700 has.

Another thing I noticed is that the lwo lamp mode doesn't seem much dimmer than

the high lamp mode. The DNIE actually looks good on good material, but seems to make

artifacts more noticable when they are present- but for the right source material - it seems

to be the first image processing that I would actually use.

The whine of the color wheel is not as bad as I would have imagined, but is there

as many have posted.

I'll report back in a few hours if I am able to get both projectors up via DVI/HDMI.
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post #643 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 02:39 PM
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I finally finished the jump from the Infocus ship and purchased a 710 today. I'm supposed to get my tracking number tomorrow. I can't wait! The only HD I have right now is my Xbox 360. I have to get that OTA tuner working now.

Thanks for the reviews and comments from everyone. Your info helped me in my decision.
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post #644 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin R. Anderson View Post

The H710 has a standard 15-pin Sub-D connector, meaning you can use a standard computer monitor cable. On page 58, the manual lists the supported computer resolutions. In the menu, got to "Setup" and "PC" and then select "Auto Adjustment" to automatically set the proper timing to sync with your PC (some manual adjustment may still be required).

It should look great. Try surfing the web or watching some DVDs on your laptop while you are at it. You may never be able to go back to a 15" monitor again.

Kevin,

Which resolution are you using with your PC? In my laptop I have the 1280x1024 or the lower one of 1024x768 and then an even lower one at 800x600. The only choice for display frequency in the PC is 60 Hz.

Thanks,

John
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post #645 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 02:54 PM
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Anyone have any comments on Samsung's customer support and / or warranty fulfillment on high-ish end projectors like the H710ae? I remember reading some comments a while ago about Samsung not yet having the infrastructure to support a projector like this one, and I'm wondering if this is still true.
Thanks!
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post #646 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 04:16 PM
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Okay

I have the 2 projectors (710 and MT700) set up and am am plugging an HDMI cable bacl and forth quckly into the monoprice unit so I can compare pics within 20 seconds or so (I have to block the lens of each after switching the cable)

I am actually comparing a few shots from an HD episode of this past week's Saturday night live I have stored on the DVR, becuase there are some strong reds in a dress (I thinks it's Amy Pohler) is wearing in this weeks opening sketch about the White House.

There is a unbelieveable amount of difference in the quality of these projectors. The blacks and mid tones of the 710 are so extended, they make the MT700 looked flashed ( a film term meaning light leaked was leaked into the film intenionally or unintentionally before processing)

The MT700 just doesn't have the dynamic range the 710 does. Colors have added subtlty as well, as some shades apear more generic on the MT700 than they do on the 710.

Now, with all that added dynamic range, the compression artifacts I mentioned above are way more noticable. They are there with the MT700, it's just that they are more hidden, because it can't resolve as much color and information in the mid tones. I tried making the Mt700 a bit contrastier to see if I could make the red dress show more artifacts, and in fact I could make them a bit more noticable, but not as much so as the 710)

Now that being said, any time in the past I altered the brightenss or contrast of the Mt700 to get a bit more punch, I would clearly loose shadow details and crush the blacks. And this was only a tiny bit of correction, so I always left the the unit with zero contrast or brightness.

The 710 doesn't need any contast boost to look rich.

I ended up looking at gamma setting and realized I was in Gamma mode 2,

so I repeated the test in Gamma mode 1 and while the red artifatcs were a bit less present

than in gamma mode 2, they were still there.

This projector is a real revelation, and as such seems to show details that other display devices gloss over. This should be a prime unit for HD DVD and other lower compression formats.

So far, DVD's upscalled through a V880 seem to look good, but I have to watch more material to be sure and to determine if I should let the DVD player do the upscale or let the 710 do it.

I do know with the MT700 it was better to have the cable box (8300) output 720P than 1080i, but with the 710 I am not seeing a benefit to having the cable box do the scaling.


Someone mentioned raising the gamma settings, but I wonder if they were done in the service menu? Can anyone elaborate.
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post #647 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 04:42 PM
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emailists: If you are so finiky about picture quality and I don't mean that in a derogatory way, why don't you look at a high-end scaler like a DVDO or Lumagen? It's certanily going to address a lot of the issues (woln't be perfect) you see with cheaper scalers such as those in the projector or DVD players. I relalize they aren't cheap but in cases like yours where it's detracting from your viewing experience it would make sense to make the investment.

Glad your enjoying the 710!
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post #648 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 05:22 PM
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It's not a scaling issue - these are Mpeg compression artifacts from HD cablecasting.

I'm just giving my impressions of the unit, both positive and negative (not that there is a real negative - just that these artifacts are more noticable)
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post #649 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Yes it's a waste of money.

Think about what you will be plugging that $100 pwr cord into? Your wall outlet which has hundreds of feet of 12 or 14 gage @ 10 cents a foot behind that wall.

Fleaman

Man, what a good post!
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post #650 of 1071 Old 04-18-2006, 09:39 PM
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emailists,

How many screen widths are you viewing from?

Noah
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post #651 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 05:07 AM
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The supposed effects caused by power cords are due to the power cord itself acting like a filter and filtering out noise on the power lines before the noise gets into the power supply of whatever device you are using. So, what's before the power cord is immaterial. Now, I'm not a big believer that power cords will do much, but that's the theory.

Returning to the thread at hand, did anyone ever figure out how much above the screen the Samsung can be placed? I remember there being some confusion regarding this issue, and this is likely the single most important datum from my point of view.

Bob
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post #652 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 08:57 AM
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[quote=ctviggen]The supposed effects caused by power cords are due to the power cord itself acting like a filter and filtering out noise on the power lines before the noise gets into the power supply of whatever device you are using. So, what's before the power cord is immaterial. Now, I'm not a big believer that power cords will do much, but that's the theory.

That is funny the power cord acting like a filter

Life is Through the Son
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post #653 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctviggen View Post

The supposed effects caused by power cords are due to the power cord itself acting like a filter and filtering out noise on the power lines before the noise gets into the power supply of whatever device you are using. So, what's before the power cord is immaterial. Now, I'm not a big believer that power cords will do much, but that's the theory.

Returning to the thread at hand, did anyone ever figure out how much above the screen the Samsung can be placed? I remember there being some confusion regarding this issue, and this is likely the single most important datum from my point of view.

I, too, found the whole power cord bit funny (though someone is clearly laughing all the way to the bank). BTW, the power in our walls is running in wires much smaller than 14g, so fleaman's remark didn't even go far enough!

Regarding the mounting issue, see Jon V's post not long before yours, which referenced the comments from Dave Abrams at JKP.
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post #654 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctviggen View Post

The supposed effects caused by power cords are due to the power cord itself acting like a filter and filtering out noise on the power lines before the noise gets into the power supply of whatever device you are using. So, what's before the power cord is immaterial. Now, I'm not a big believer that power cords will do much, but that's the theory.
.

Some of those boutique overpriced pwr cords have filters built into them. If you have dirty pwr, get a dedicated surge suppressor with filters, it will more than likely work much better than a $100+ pwr cord w/filters and allow you to plug most of your equipment into it.

Otherwise I can make you some nice 10 gage for $10 a foot that will perform as well as Any other pwr cord.

PM me for my paypal account

Fleaman
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post #655 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 10:57 AM
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"BTW, the power in our walls is running in wires much smaller than 14g"

Not modern wiring. I've never seen Romex smaller than 14 AWG or a circuit breaker less than 15 A.

Noah
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post #656 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 11:07 AM
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15 A requires 14 AWG, and 20 A requires 12 AWG.
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post #657 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 11:33 AM
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You guys that are interested in power cords and filters might chech out a product from audionut it is the juice goose rx10.
I have a seperate 12g outlet and I needed a surge protector and thought I would give it a try. I noticed a slighty cleaner picture, possibly a little sharper. I live in rural america, so maybe the power is not quite as clean. Anyways it is a good way to have protection and I think it will improve the picture slightly in most cases.
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post #658 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 12:25 PM
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Joe Kane shared some tidbits with me today that will be of interest to this thread. He said the 710 is calibrated at the factory through the lens with no screen involved. The Stewart GrayHawk RS and StudioTech 130 are the only screens he has tested extensively and found to be neutral. Those are the only ones he recommends to get the full benefit of the reference color performance this projector can deliver. His opinion of the 710s he has examined is that they are coming from the factory very close to ideal and should be used with a neutral screen.

His recommended procedure is still to calibrate off the screen. This requires unique procedures beyond the featured facilities in the user menu. Access to the service menu is a necessity, via a factory remote or PC. Joe recommends using a Photo Research PR650 spectroradiometer or equivalent. He insists that his class be taken to get the complete and accurate information for fully calibrating this display. I will be receiving the registration information from him shortly.

The good news is that the average consumer can benefit from excellent factory calibration, along with its superb color performance, etc., when purchasing this projector. The bad news is that there are not very many professional calibrators around with the instrumentation and training to fully set this unit up to the 'nth degree.

The better news I have saved for last. Joe is planning to demonstrate his new Samsung PS-H900A DLP projector at CEDIA EXPO in Denver this September. Yes, it will be 1080p. He is hoping it will become available to the public by the end of this year. That's all I know about it.

Best regards and beautiful pictures,
G. Alan Brown, President
CinemaQuest, Inc.

"Advancing the art and science of electronic imaging"
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post #659 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 12:29 PM
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George

Thats for the info on the 1080p projector. I was hoping Joe would work on a 1080p.

Brad
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post #660 of 1071 Old 04-19-2006, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbawilly View Post

15 A requires 14 AWG, and 20 A requires 12 AWG.

My bad--thanks for the correction.
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