Official Optoma HD7100, HD7300 + HD3000 Scaler thread. - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 2851 Old 10-30-2006, 10:38 AM
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when you change settings make sure u are using Custom1, or Custom2

then the settings are saved.

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post #362 of 2851 Old 11-01-2006, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

when you change settings make sure u are using Custom1, or Custom2

then the settings are saved.

Thanks, it works!!
So, basically we just have 2 memory positions at our disposal, Custom 1 and 2. However, I find it peculiar that settings under Normal and the ISFs can't be saved. Since we are all different and our installations are different as well, how would Optoma figure that Normal, ISF Night, etc could be of use to us w/o the capability of saving our specific settings. Go figure
I project from about 10' onto a 92" GrayWolf in a room w/o lights but with clear walls ceiling and floor and use the following setting (still tweaking with Sound and Vision disc):
Brightness: -18
Contrast: +6
Colour: -9
Tint: -3
Sharpness: softest
Colour temp: 6500
Gamma: 2.2
Green Gain: -1
Green Offset: -2
Mode: econo
I found that the settings posted by other members helped me a lot to arrive to these settings under Custom1.
It may be just me, but I still find that the same settings under ISF Night give a different, better balanced picture.
Have you guys tried playing a bit with ISF Night? What are your settings?
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post #363 of 2851 Old 11-01-2006, 02:03 PM
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Calibrated using Colorfacts

96" Goo Systems Digital Grey Screen
Oppo DVD player upconverting to 1080i over a 30' Better Cables DVI to HDMI cord.
Ambient light nil in darkend room, flat painted walls
Projected from 10 feet using about 1/4 vertical lens shift and slight horizontal lens shift.

These are the final settings and results achieved by using the Spyder Pro2 light meter facing the projector versus the screen. I used the Avia disk for my IRE test patterns and to check contrast ratios and foot lamberts post calibration. I also verified my results with the Get Grey disk.

I turned the light meter around to face the projector and got much more accurate results. This method also allowed recording of the lower light levels at 10IREand 20IRE without giving me an out of range error. I still had to raise the red gain up to +18 to achieve accurate results of 6507K at 80IRE. I adjusted the x value by +1 at 6500K and left the y value alone as it was near perfect at .329 which resulted in about 0.31265 for x.

Custom 1 Setting[u]
Brightness = -4
Contrast = +14
Color Temp = 6500K
Sharpness = Sharp
Gamma = 2.2
Color Temp X value = +1 adjusted at 80IRE
Color Temp Y value = 0 adjusted at 80IRE
White Balance =
Red Gain +18, Green Gain -1, Blue Gain -1
Red Offset +4, Green Offset +6, Blue Offset +3
All color tracking from 30IRE to 80IRE within 15 points on 6500K with 10IRE off by about 200points and 20IRE off by about 75 points 90IRE off by about 500 points and 100IRE off by about 1400 points, due to Red running out.
Achieved Contrast ratio = 3,763:1
Foot Lamberts Achieved on100IRE window = 11.1

Still teaking and playing, and also trying to figure out the best settings for this projector. Have tried other settings and calibrating with some of the other color temps, but so far this is the best yet. I can achieve an over 4000:1 contrast ratio if I (a)move the light meter back further from the screen or (b)give up a more accurate color temp and grey scale. Tom recorded over 4:000:1 in his calibration of this projector. Other reviews I have read sighted contrast ratios anywhere from 3500:1 to 3700:1, so I feel I am there with my calibration.

Tom how did you manage over 4,000:1, was it by my (a) or (b) method, and or am I missing something to achieve an even higher contrast ratio than I am getting now?

Just one more upgrade honey, I promise!!
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post #364 of 2851 Old 11-01-2006, 02:40 PM
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Tuned to D65k my best point is tuning the black level to the exact point where the dithering in blacks is off. It takes practice, you go up close to the screen bobbing around looking for that sweet spot. You might pick up Sound and Vision HT tuning DVD becuase their pluge pattern is easier to work with. With this type of Pluge you delete the left moving bar, then start looking for the zero dither point.
My CR measurment was sensor 3' away from the lens. On another try with the meter at normal viewing distance same settings, I got 5700.1

I get a more stable reading when tuning further away. The numbers just don't bounce around like they do when you have the meter ontop of the lens. Greg Rodgers does his CR readings at the further distance, someday I'll call him and ask why.

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post #365 of 2851 Old 11-01-2006, 03:06 PM
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Is your projector leaking light?? If I had one complaint about this projector it would be the small amount of light leakage. Not from the case on the side walls, as this would be tolerable and acceptable. It is instead from the lens itself and shows up on the screen as a slightly lighter area from the top right hand corner to about half way down the side of the screen in my case on darker viewing material and in night scenes. I do not feel that a projector in this price range should have this issue at all, despite Optoma assuring me that this is acceptable and within factory tolerances. They are in the business of making projectors which project an image on to a screen; this should be as good as and at as high a standard as possible. It is like saying that your new car will drive fine on the worn out treads that came with it. Sure it will, but in a rain storm or in snow look out, and do not take that corner to fast!! Anyway I digress; it is a flaw that I have seen on other projectors as well, so alas not all is lost on the Optoma. My first DLP projector had light leakage really bad, but with a little tape taming it learned to behave itself. I have derived my own solution to this annoying problem; it's called masking!! I mean literally placing black electrical tape in strategically placed spots on the lens itself masking out the nasty light leakage. This works very well and if done right will not affect the brighter scenes. It looks a little odd when the lights are on, but who watches movies with the lights on anyway? The end result is all the matters and this method works. You can and I have tried other ways of accomplishing this, but I always go back to the black electrical tape, as it is easier and quicker to do. So be careful and take your time. I just wish Optoma had placed some sort of device either mechanically or digitally on this projector to do this for me. Something like the digital shutter on my old Hitachi PJTX200 projector, this worked great for reducing grey bars on letterbox movies. This is just my two cents worth. Other than this small self fixable issue the projector works perfectly, projecting an image on my screen which is the best that I have had in my home theatre to date.

I will include some pictures of the taped lens and some screen shots soon. I promise, as I had promised in the past to do the very same but never got around to it for various reasons.

Just one more upgrade honey, I promise!!
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post #366 of 2851 Old 11-01-2006, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

Tuned to D65k my best point is tuning the black level to the exact point where the dithering in blacks is off. It takes practice, you go up close to the screen bobbing around looking for that sweet spot. You might pick up Sound and Vision HT tuning DVD becuase their pluge pattern is easier to work with. With this type of Pluge you delete the left moving bar, then start looking for the zero dither point.
My CR measurment was sensor 3' away from the lens. On another try with the meter at normal viewing distance same settings, I got 5700.1

I get a more stable reading when tuning further away. The numbers just don't bounce around like they do when you have the meter ontop of the lens. Greg Rodgers does his CR readings at the further distance, someday I'll call him and ask why.

Tom

I have the Sound & Vision Disk as well, I will verify with this one too. I do however feel that the Get Grey disk works great for this purpose and wonder how this other disk could provide any better results, but I will give it a go, based on your recommendation Tom.

Are my settings way off comparative to yours or did you find a need to raise the red gain up fairly high as well in order to get proper tracking at the higher IRE levels? Can I assume you tuned yours using 6500K to start? Have you tried tuning with the native color temp setting?

I took my contrast reading from 12 inches away from the screen, with the meter facing the screen. If I move the meter further out than that then I too get contrast ratio readings of + 4000:1, like I mentioned in my previous post. Why the dramatic increase in contrast at further distances, beats me. You should speak with Greg and ask why, very curious as to the reason for this.

Just one more upgrade honey, I promise!!
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post #367 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 11:07 AM
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hi,

I am having a bitch of a time trying to calibrate my pj.

can any of you guys recomend any equipment/dvds i can use to calibrate it.

the darks on some of my dvds are way too dark. in the dark scenes.


thanks



rod

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post #368 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 11:12 AM
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I finally got around to putting a picture up of my installation. It can be found here: http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69561841 The source is a Dish 942 HD receiver. The picture is actually a composite, the screen having been shot in a short exposure and then overlayed in place on a longer exposure of the room. This way the majority of the total system can be seen. To get a BIG image go to the bottom of the page and click on "Original"
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post #369 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rking401 View Post

I finally got around to putting a picture up of my installation. It can be found here: http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69561841 The source is a Dish 942 HD receiver. The picture is actually a composite, the screen having been shot in a short exposure and then overlayed in place on a longer exposure of the room. This way the majority of the total system can be seen. To get a BIG image go to the bottom of the page and click on "Original"

what kind of screen is that?


and is the monster calibration dvd any good?

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post #370 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 02:42 PM
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It's a naked DIY screen using using Parkland Plastics laminated to a 1/8" masonite board and framed with 2x2 lumber painted black. Cost less than $100.00. I haven't had a chance to play with any coatings at this point.

Calibration is by eye, no test gear or discs, yet.
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post #371 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 03:39 PM
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rking401,

Is the projector really that bright with so much ambient light? Or is the pic edited to look that way?
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post #372 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Confiscated60 View Post

rking401,

Is the projector really that bright with so much ambient light? Or is the pic edited to look that way?



i doubt he would have edited it
mine is bright in ambient light 2...

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post #373 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Confiscated60 View Post

rking401,

Is the projector really that bright with so much ambient light? Or is the pic edited to look that way?

Take a look at my post where I mentioned the picture and you will see that I did a composite. I'll post the original picture this evening and post here again when I get it up, so to speak.
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post #374 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 04:37 PM
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Here ya go. This is still with a light on in the room, and a fair amount of ambient light. It's the picture that I used to grab the screen for use in the composite. http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69828294
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post #375 of 2851 Old 11-06-2006, 07:10 PM
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OK, that makes sense. I thought that image was really bright considering the brightness of the room.

According to the projector manual, this projector doesn't have much vertical offset capability. It seems the vertical lens shift allows just over 50% of the vertical image size, placing a ceiling mounted projector just slightly above the top of the screen at its maximum lens shift. Is this correct?

I'd like to ceiling mount this projector, but it appears the mount has to pretty much be within screen height vertically...essentially no offset. Anyone ceiling mounting this?
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post #376 of 2851 Old 11-07-2006, 05:38 AM
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For a 100" screen you can go 4" over or under the screen. I have a 110" screen and when the theater is drywalled, I will be mounting it as close to even with the top of the screen as possible. You can go to 4.5" on the 110" screen. The HD-81 is the projector with 0 offset from what I understand
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post #377 of 2851 Old 11-07-2006, 06:10 AM
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Mine is ceiling mounted and the center of the lens is about 1/2" above the top of the screen. Screen size is 98".
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post #378 of 2851 Old 11-07-2006, 07:08 AM
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I ordered my 7100 yesterday from Visualapex. Due to arrive Friday. One of the dealers I called said the 7100 was discontinued! But then he didn't know about the $400 rebate continuing to the end of the year eather. I have a new screen, an OPPO DVD player, and cables on the way too.
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post #379 of 2851 Old 11-07-2006, 08:51 AM
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^discontinued? that has to be bs.


it just came out like 7 months or so ago.


my sp5700 was out for like 3 years before it got discontinued.

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post #380 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 04:25 AM
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Where did you hear that? my dealer sent his stock back and replaced it with the HD-81, but he didn't mention anything about it being discontinued. That would be the shortest run in history for a kick *ss projector if it's true.
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post #381 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eXgo View Post

hi,

I am having a bitch of a time trying to calibrate my pj.

can any of you guys recomend any equipment/dvds i can use to calibrate it.

the darks on some of my dvds are way too dark. in the dark scenes.


thanks



rod


I use the THX Optimizer DVD for setting contrast and the Sound&Vision DVD for brightness, tint and saturation.
Depending on your room/light, screen and distance conditions you can use some of the posted settings in this thread as a starting guide.
Good luck.
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post #382 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 07:45 AM
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B&H photo-video mentioned that it had been discontinued while they were searching for the rebate they never found. Visualapex were much more plesant to deal with. For the extra $50 they were asking, you atleast get an extended one year warantee. Wish it had been a bulb warantee though.

My AVIA disk is 4:3 screen size. Will I have any trouble using it to calibrate the 7100?

I also want to thank FGM for his comments about his X1 and 7100. They were very helpfull to me since I couldn't find a 7100 locally to compare.
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post #383 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 09:46 AM
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Hey Guys!

Soon to be a happy owner... (I have an H77, this will be family's pj)

HT Projectors highly respected site run by Andrea has posted a review of SIC DC3, Europe's HD7100 under a different name. It's only in Italian for now as he has not updated his English version. He said it's an awesome machine in the league of PE8720!

I remember Guitarman being the lonely reviewer who thought this was an exceptional pj, no more
It seems from the research I've done that Europe has been onto this machine for quite some time (3 generations) and it has won awards in UK, France, Germany and others from their HiFi magazines for excellent optics and quality of image.

Italian HT forum did a review of the older HD2+ machine vs. Optoma H79 and it kicked butt, they got so excited they asked Andrea to do the review of the newer DC3 machine

Cheers!
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post #384 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 01:04 PM
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I don't think there was ever any doubt about the picture produced by this projector. It is fabulous, to say the least. Any negative type comments, including mine, have been about reliability and problems out of the box. I love my HD7100. Not only does it provide a great picture, but it was a plug and play replacement for my X1. I simply installed it in the EXACT same spot the X1 had been occupying, which, along with the picture, made me quite happy.
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post #385 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rking401 View Post

I don't think there was ever any doubt about the picture produced by this projector. It is fabulous, to say the least. Any negative type comments, including mine, have been about reliability and problems out of the box. I love my HD7100. Not only does it provide a great picture, but it was a plug and play replacement for my X1. I simply installed it in the EXACT same spot the X1 had been occupying, which, along with the picture, made me quite happy.

rking401
I will be getting a hd7100 in the beginning of December to replace my sp4805, which i believe is very similar to an X1. Did u get a bigger screen size at the same location? what mount did you use? Our Infocus(x1 , 4805) mounts wount work will they? Also has anyone heard of this model,Hd7100, being discontinued? i know B&H are not very reputable and may have said that to sell another projector.
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post #386 of 2851 Old 11-08-2006, 09:15 PM
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I had a 4' high 3:4 srceen with the X1 and replaced it with a 4' high 16:9 screen with the 7100. I built a home brew mount using plexiglas and an old loudspeaker wall mount (Vogel's VLB-100) that I had sitting around here from an old job. The old mount that I had for the X1 didn't work because the mounting holes are different spacing. I had a home brew mount for the X1 also using plexi and black pipe. I didn't want to do the black pipe because of the increased weight of the 7100 and the fact that mounting and dismounting to the pipe was very ackward. I built the mounting plate (the plexi piece) then started digging around for something to replace the pipe and found the old speaker mounts. The problem is that I have two speaker mounts and only one projector, so I guess I need to buy another projector. :lol: I'll try to post a picture or two of the mount later. I have a few somewhere on this computator someplace. By the way, the InFocus mount might work if it is an adjustable mount that was not designed only for use with the X1/4805. The 7100 has three mounting holes in the top just as the X1 did, just with different spacing. The 7100 plate ended up being considerably larger.
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post #387 of 2851 Old 11-09-2006, 07:14 AM
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THe ceiling mount pix can be found here:
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69951287
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69951289
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69951319
Here's the X1 screen from the same mounting position:
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/37139492 (excuse the ceiling fan in the way)

I still have some cable management to handle.
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post #388 of 2851 Old 11-09-2006, 07:31 AM
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Another shot of the screen from behind the projector. Shot at about 10:30 AM with lots of light in the room and no editing of the picture (aside from rotating and resizing the file).
http://www.pbase.com/rking401/image/69952315
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post #389 of 2851 Old 11-10-2006, 08:01 AM
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I was reading the manual for my new OPPO 971 DVD player which lets you set up video parameters - Sharpness, black and white level, saturation, truelife, CCS, and noise reduction. What are the best settings for these to best work with the 7100 since I assume some of these things are also set by the 7100 as well. My 7100 was supposed to be delivered today, but was delayed untill Monday. Dang!!!!!!! Sure wanted to play with it this weekend.
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post #390 of 2851 Old 11-10-2006, 09:06 AM
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i have got a monster DVI to HDMI for my HDa1 and my 7100, and it handshaked 2 out of the three times i tried it.


good enough for me.


Even tho it works just fine over component for HD-DVD, It is nice that it aint too bad over HDMI, at least for me.

i recently heard down the line that the Flags are going to be in effect circa 2010.


so we got some time

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