Ruby / Qualia lamp, pics added. - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 387 Old 09-13-2012, 03:17 AM
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I cannot find the lamp only anywhere, tried on ebay.

Someone would have an idea, where to find it.

I like my HT, wine and pretty girls. But...am I the only one
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post #362 of 387 Old 09-16-2012, 12:25 AM
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Search for "Replacement Lamp LMP-H400" on eBay.com, there are presently 2 on sale.
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post #363 of 387 Old 09-16-2012, 12:51 AM
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Thank you so much! I sold mine, so the buyer will be happy to still find a cheaper sollution to replace the lamp

I like my HT, wine and pretty girls. But...am I the only one
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post #364 of 387 Old 12-05-2012, 08:51 PM
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I apologize upfront, but I have read most of this thread and can't find the details on the part number
of the bulb for the Qualia 004, or any instructions on how to replace it in the Qualia heatsink/frame.
Can someone please post or PM the details on source and instructions (if not obvious)?
Thanks
Mike
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post #365 of 387 Old 01-09-2013, 09:25 PM
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I have 3 full assemblies now. The last time a bulb needed replacing I found this thread AFTER I had bought my 3rd assembly. At that time I ordered one of the bulbs from eBay.

Today my projector reached 2454 hours and I decided to get out one of the two spare assemblies, install the bulb, and see how it works.

So far so good. The installation of the bulb in the assembly was very easy; previous pictures in this thread do a nice job (but I didn't even look at them).

I'm now going to buy another spare bulb... prices have gone up. He's now asking $450.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Lamp-LMP-H400-for-Sony-modules/160953110088?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=006&category=71583&cmd=ViewItem

FWIW, here's what the bulb I took out of the factory assembly looks like. I should have taken pictures of the replacement, but failed to do so; the pictures in the eBay auction look just like the bulb he sent.







I just used the thermal grease that came with the new bulb...

We'll see if the crickets return (they were there with this last assembly).
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post #366 of 387 Old 01-09-2013, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

I just used the thermal grease that came with the new bulb...
We'll see if the crickets return (they were there with this last assembly).
According to some members of the Forum, the "crickets" are somewhat related to the thermal grease (wrong type, too much, not evenly spread, etc...) or may be to the tightening of the screws in the lamp assembly.
I had no problem with the grease supplied with the eBay spare lamp.
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post #367 of 387 Old 01-19-2013, 12:17 PM
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Anyone here have a definitive fix for the "pop, pop, pop, pop no ping will not start" issue?

When I first bought my Ruby, within a year I had it repaired under warranty for for this problem. They replaced the lamp power supply. Never had the pop, pop issue except right after the projector had been on for a long time, turned off, and then immediately turned on...and even then it would start eventually.

I replaced the bulb about 2 weeks ago. Worked fine right off the bat. Then later that day, when we went to turn the projector on I got the dreaded "pop, pop, pop, pop...pause...pop, pop, pop, pop" with no "ping". For grins I threw in an old lamp assembly that had an almost dead (but not dead yet!) bulb in and it started right up.

I then put in my other assembly with the new bulb. Started right up.

And worked fine for about a week.

Last night it started popping again and not starting.

I wonder if my power supply has failed?

I'm no longer under the extended warranty. Anyone recently have a Ruby serviced? What was the procedure?
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post #368 of 387 Old 01-19-2013, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Anyone here have a definitive fix for the "pop, pop, pop, pop no ping will not start" issue?

When I first bought my Ruby, within a year I had it repaired under warranty for for this problem. They replaced the lamp power supply. Never had the pop, pop issue except right after the projector had been on for a long time, turned off, and then immediately turned on...and even then it would start eventually.

I replaced the bulb about 2 weeks ago. Worked fine right off the bat. Then later that day, when we went to turn the projector on I got the dreaded "pop, pop, pop, pop...pause...pop, pop, pop, pop" with no "ping". For grins I threw in an old lamp assembly that had an almost dead (but not dead yet!) bulb in and it started right up.

I then put in my other assembly with the new bulb. Started right up.

And worked fine for about a week.

Last night it started popping again and not starting.

I wonder if my power supply has failed?

I'm no longer under the extended warranty. Anyone recently have a Ruby serviced? What was the procedure?

As a FORMER Ruby owner - here is my recommendation
- You probably will not like it but it is what I did and I am
SUPER HAPPY

SELL IT - Buy an Epson 5020 or 6020

YOU WILL THANK ME 1000 times over.
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post #369 of 387 Old 01-19-2013, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

As a FORMER Ruby owner - here is my recommendation
- You probably will not like it but it is what I did and I am
SUPER HAPPY

SELL IT - Buy an Epson 5020 or 6020

YOU WILL THANK ME 1000 times over.

Ha, ha.

Do the Epson projectors support control over TCP/IP?
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post #370 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Anyone here have a definitive fix for the "pop, pop, pop, pop no ping will not start" issue?
When I first bought my Ruby, within a year I had it repaired under warranty for this problem. They replaced the lamp power supply. Never had the pop, pop issue except right after the projector had been on for a long time, turned off, and then immediately turned on...and even then it would start eventually.

That's the symptom buyers of early Rubys had before upgrading to the "Hard Start Mod Kit".
After upgrading, I did not have the problem anymore, and I recovered a lamp which would not start before.
Depending on your Ruby S/N, you will need either the full $707 Hard Start Mod Kit Assy (A-1206-459-A) [for S/N 2000001-2003986] or only the $199 Igniter Assy (A-1206-462-A) [for S/N 2003987-2005136].
Not complicated to install if you take your time and don't have two left hands wink.gif.
But considering the $707 price of the full kit, if you need that one you may want to save your money and wait for the VPL-VW95 successor (VW100ES ???), supposed to become available mid-2013.
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post #371 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Ha, ha.

Do the Epson projectors support control over TCP/IP?

ABSOLUTELY - That is what I use because the
3D IR Transmitter drowns out IR - So I use RS-232.
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post #372 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

ABSOLUTELY - That is what I use because the
3D IR Transmitter drowns out IR - So I use RS-232.

Uh, RS-232 is not TCP/IP. I went and looked at all the spec sheet for both the 5020 an 6020 and neither appear to have ethernet ports. So how could they support TCP/IP?
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post #373 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeji View Post

That's the symptom buyers of early Rubys had before upgrading to the "Hard Start Mod Kit".
After upgrading, I did not have the problem anymore, and I recovered a lamp which would not start before.
Depending on your Ruby S/N, you will need either the full $707 Hard Start Mod Kit Assy (A-1206-459-A) [for S/N 2000001-2003986] or only the $199 Igniter Assy (A-1206-462-A) [for S/N 2003987-2005136].
Not complicated to install if you take your time and don't have two left hands wink.gif.
But considering the $707 price of the full kit, if you need that one you may want to save your money and wait for the VPL-VW95 successor (VW100ES ???), supposed to become available mid-2013.

Fantastic info geeji -

My S/N is 2000337. So I would, theoretically, need the Hard Start Mod Kit Assy.

Can you help me identify if this kit has already been installed or not? How can I tell? Remember, my unit was repaired under warranty in 2008 for failure to start. At the time I was told the lamp power supply, lap igniter, and lamp were replaced.
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post #374 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Uh, RS-232 is not TCP/IP. I went and looked at all the spec sheet for both the 5020 an 6020 and neither appear to have ethernet ports. So how could they support TCP/IP?


RS-232 is the Industry Standard for REAL CONTROL after IR
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post #375 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Uh, RS-232 is not TCP/IP. I went and looked at all the spec sheet for both the 5020 an 6020 and neither appear to have ethernet ports. So how could they support TCP/IP?

Do you USE TCP/IP to Control Your Ruby????????
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post #376 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Do you USE TCP/IP to Control Your Ruby????????

Yes. I do. It works extremely well too.
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post #377 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Yes. I do. It works extremely well too.

Other Than ON/OFF there is nothing to control on the Ruby.

RS-232 is STILL the INDUSTRY STANDARD.

Why INSIST on investing more money in an OBSOLETE PJ.

I paid $10K for my Ruby - Day One. I would not pay TWO CENTS
for it Today. IT IS OBSOLETE.

It does not handle 24fps Blu-Ray and NO DEEP Color, Poor Lumens
and Contrast and NO 3D.

IT IS OBSOLETE - do not waste money on it.
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post #378 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Other Than ON/OFF there is nothing to control on the Ruby.

RS-232 is STILL the INDUSTRY STANDARD.

Why INSIST on investing more money in an OBSOLETE PJ.

I paid $10K for my Ruby - Day One. I would not pay TWO CENTS
for it Today. IT IS OBSOLETE.

It does not handle 24fps Blu-Ray and NO DEEP Color, Poor Lumens
and Contrast and NO 3D.

IT IS OBSOLETE - do not waste money on it.

Egads. Why are you YELLING at me? I simply asked if the Epson supported TCP/IP. You said it did. I verified that you were wrong. You then continued to yell at me, for why, I have no clue.

How many of your 6000 posts on AVS are blather like this?
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post #379 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

Egads. Why are you YELLING at me?

Maybe you consider it Yelling - I don't.

I have been using PJ's since DAY ONE with the fist KLOSS VIDEO PJ in 1977.

Technology keeps getting better and cheaper. I built this theater in 1996.

In this Theater I paid $50K for the 1st PJ.

I paid $25K for the 2nd PJ.

I paid $10K for the 3rd PJ - Ruby.

I paid $3K for the 4th PJ Epson 5010.

Sometimes it is better to leave the old behind.
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post #380 of 387 Old 01-20-2013, 03:30 PM
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Maybe you consider it Yelling - I don't.

You should.
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post #381 of 387 Old 01-21-2013, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cek View Post

My S/N is 2000337. So I would, theoretically, need the Hard Start Mod Kit Assy.
Can you help me identify if this kit has already been installed or not? How can I tell? Remember, my unit was repaired under warranty in 2008 for failure to start. At the time I was told the lamp power supply, lap igniter, and lamp were replaced.

I am afraid the only solution would involve opening the Ruby and have a very close look at the currently installed parts.
Then you could compare the parts involved in the Hard Start Mod Kit to the pictures and parts references given in the Hard Start Mod Kit Installation Manual, especially the insulating sheet assy (A-1206-461-A) and the Sleeve ferrite clamp (1-500-082-11) which did not exist in the original Ruby.
Note that any part installed 5 years ago can obviously have died since...


PS: I know I will not convince anybody, but the main reason I kept my Ruby for the last 7 years is that whenever I compared a Ruby with its Xenon lamp to any other video-projector with a more classical UHP one, I always preferred by far the colors and tones balance offered by the Xenon lamp.
But I may finally change my mind for the successor of the VPL-VW95, rumored for mid-2013... smile.gif
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post #382 of 387 Old 01-21-2013, 01:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeji View Post

I am afraid the only solution would involve opening the Ruby and have a very close look at the currently installed parts.
Then you could compare the parts involved in the Hard Start Mod Kit to the pictures and parts references given in the Hard Start Mod Kit Installation Manual, especially the insulating sheet assy (A-1206-461-A) and the Sleeve ferrite clamp (1-500-082-11) which did not exist in the original Ruby.
Note that any part installed 5 years ago can obviously have died since...


PS: I know I will not convince anybody, but the main reason I kept my Ruby for the last 7 years is that whenever I compared a Ruby with its Xenon lamp to any other video-projector with a more classical UHP one, I always preferred by far the colors and tones balance offered by the Xenon lamp.
But I may finally change my mind for the successor of the VPL-VW95, rumored for mid-2013... smile.gif

Thank you kind sir!

Looks like the Sleeve Ferrite Clamp will be the easiest to spot. I figure I don't have much to lose in taking it apart. I have the full service manual now to show me how. If it does not have that ferrite clamp then I'll might order the kit. I can't afford a new $2000-4000 projector right now and I've already invested in a new lamp...

Thanks again; I'll keep you all posted...
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post #383 of 387 Old 01-21-2013, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
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Looks like the Sleeve Ferrite Clamp will be the easiest to spot.
Yes, but don't neglect the possibility of a lazy repairman who may not have replaced all the parts in the kit, just to save time (or money :-(.
I agree the ferrite clamp is among the fastest parts to upgrade, but once you have opened the Ruby, it will not take you much more time to check a few other upgraded (or not) parts.
That should give you a better security on "the final diagnosis" (sadly, Arthur Hailey never wrote on the semi-conductor industry : not enough glamor or too much material to research ? wink.gif).
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post #384 of 387 Old 01-26-2014, 11:03 AM
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Just a collective thanks to all that contributed info about the lamp swap--process, pictures, experieinces and warnings. I have had a hard starting Ruby and finally got around to installing a new lamp that I'd ordered two years ago. PJ would no longer light at all so it was time. At any rate, took less than an hour and for the first time since I've had it, my Ruby turned right on--no repeated pops, no delay, no drama. Cycled on/off a few times and all good. Thanks for saving me time and money!
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post #385 of 387 Old 01-27-2014, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Weisner View Post

I have had a hard starting Ruby and finally got around to installing a new lamp that I'd ordered two years ago. PJ would no longer light at all so it was time.
If you read the whole thread, you should know that although some old/new bulbs are more susceptible to the "hard start issue" than others, it mostly comes from the Ruby itself for those with S/N lower or equal to 2005136.
For those, the only guaranteed solution is the "Hard Start Mod Kit", which considering its price and the Ruby's age, may be a poor alternative to a new projector...
Enjoy your Ruby !

PS : 8 years later, I was finally thinking about switching to the VPL-VW500ES, but considering the number of worrying early production issues I see in the forums, I will likely continue to use my Ruby for 6-12 months more biggrin.gif.
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post #386 of 387 Old 04-18-2014, 03:15 AM
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Advice Needed...

 

I have the VW100 and have replaced the lamp with housing (heat sink) several times. Now I am confused.

I understand the VW100 and VW200 use the same bulb. However, some of the pictures I see of the bulb have a differently shaped housing. I isn't the same as the unit in my 100 and I don't know why it is being listed as the replacement for it. (See the pictures.)

 

Can someone explain, please?

 

Thanks in advance!

--Jim

 

This is what I have:

 

 

This is the one listed as a replacement:

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post #387 of 387 Old 04-19-2014, 10:40 PM
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The complete LMP-H400 housing is an assembly of metal and plastic parts.
Your top picture is the full metal+plastic assembly; your bottom picture is only the central metal part.
See pictures in this post in the same thread.

Note that by buying only the naked bulb and installing it yourself into your current lamp assembly, you would save about $400.
Only a dozen screws involved, about 30mn of work being very careful not to mix parts.
There is currently one on sale on ebay for $420 : search for Replacement Lamp LMP-H400 for Sony modules.
I used 3 of those without any problem.
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