Sharp XV-Z20000 initial impressions and numbers - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 392 Old 04-05-2007, 03:42 PM
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Just joined the 20K club today. I should be getting mine on Saturday. My wife is asking for screenshots to get an idea of what I just spent our tax refund on. Can you guys post some and help a man with the ever important WAF?

Thanks!
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post #182 of 392 Old 04-06-2007, 08:05 AM
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My Sharp XV-Z2000 show a strage behavior. Everytime I turn it on it keep it's Iris Open even if it's supposed to be in High contrast mode. I need to click on medium or high brigthness and then go back to high contrast to get it to close like it supposed to. Anyone else have that problem? Anychance that a firmware upgrade fix this? Is this a known problem?

Bruno
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post #183 of 392 Old 04-06-2007, 09:03 AM
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Sounds like a defect to me... sorry.

Every time I would fire up my projector, it would clamp down the iris to the last position I left it, which in my case was High Contrast mode. It might take a second or two to do it, but it always did it.

Phil
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post #184 of 392 Old 04-06-2007, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Same here, no problems.

Bruno, you've had some bad luck with this thing.

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post #185 of 392 Old 05-13-2007, 02:48 AM
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Hi, I know that's a flawed question I'm going to ask about recommended settings, as they depend on the source(s), room specific issues etc. So with this mia culpa to begin with, any recommended 'generic' settings? I have the XV-Z20000 feeding from a Crystalio 2 3800. Which in turn receives video from a Denon DVD-A1XVA, an HTPC, a PS3, an Xbox360 and a local cable network. I'm using the HDMI input on the Sharp, and the C2 switches the different sources. I tried setting things up to my best 'bare hands' or better yet 'bare eyes' ability, but I'm looking for something better, more natural skin tone for example. I would gladly pay for an ISF calibration (my second display also feeding from the C2 is a Pioneer FHD 50" that would also benefit from a proper calibration), but I found no ISF calibrators in my region (Israel). I'm mainly looking for recommended settings (or advice) for my HTPC source for the Sharp as the majority of my HD content is viewed from it.
Let me just add that this thread was one of my key reasons for getting the Sharp, thanks a lot for the great review and excellent feedback you all put in it.
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post #186 of 392 Old 06-08-2007, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Set the Color Temp to 6500K and dial back Red saturation 5 ticks, Yellow and Green saturation 10 ticks in the CMS. That will get you fairly close.

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post #187 of 392 Old 06-08-2007, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally got my hands on the new HD DVD and Blu-ray versions of the HQV Benchmark test discs today. These discs are the first commercially available test patterns I know of that offers a way to test a display's ability to properly process 1080i video and film sources.

The results confirmed my earlier assessment that the 20K has excellent processing. The disc has tests for
  • HD Noise Reduction
  • HD Video Resolution
  • Jaggies (diagonal processing)
  • HD Film Resolution

With the HD DVD player and Blu-ray player set to output 1080i, the 20K easily passed ALL of the tests. The 20K was set to Auto in the Film Mode sub-menu in the Advanced section of the Picture menu. Selecting 3D Fast or 3D Slow didn't seem to make much difference to the the HD Video Resolution test. With either setting the 20K passed. I also set the DNR and MNR Noise Reduction settings On but to their lowest point, which did not result in any loss of resolution that I could see.

The only glitch I saw was with the HD Film Resolution test. The test requires you to look at squares of evenly-spaced horizontal and vertical lines while the entire test pattern bobs back and forth horizontally. A deinterlacer that correctly applies inverse telecine to 1080i sources without any loss of resolution will be able to cleanly resolve even the single-pixel lines in these squares without flashing or distortion as the pattern moves. I noticed that the test areas were rendered quite cleanly, except every tenth bob the squares would flash. I originally thought that this indicated some flaw in the 20k inverse telecine processing. However, this phenomenon persisted even after I switched the HD DVD and Blu-ray players to 1080p output, thereby bypassing the 20K's processing. I decided that the pattern was just looping every tenth bob and the processor momentarily lost a lock on the cadence.

BTW, these tests confirm something Greg Rogers noted in his review of the 20K. This projector does a better job with inverse telecine processing for 1080i sources than it does for 480i sources. The 20K fails the film resolution test on the SD DVD version of the HQV Benchmark Test disc.

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post #188 of 392 Old 06-08-2007, 05:13 PM
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I did the same tests with mine Tom. And my Sharp handle a 1080i signal even better than my Anthem D2 with it's Gennum chip.
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post #189 of 392 Old 06-17-2007, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgosselin View Post

I did the same tests with mine Tom. And my Sharp handle a 1080i signal even better than my Anthem D2 with it's Gennum chip.

Yea, I tested and Anthem AVM50 the other night and it failed the film resolution test, though it passed the video resolution test and picked up 3/2 pulldown fine. I wonder what's going on there?

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post #190 of 392 Old 06-17-2007, 01:46 PM - Thread Starter
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I am at 670 hours on the lamp and I have lost about half of my original brightness. That puts me at about 9.5 fL, so it's time for a new bulb. This is the cost of doing business with this PJ.

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post #191 of 392 Old 06-17-2007, 02:14 PM
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What gain screen are you using Tom? I am finding the image extremely satisfying, when paired with a 119" diagonal High Power, and my bulb is getting up there as well. I positioned the projector perfectly to take advantage of the 2.8 gain of the screen, and the image is amazingly punchy for such low lumens.

Phil
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post #192 of 392 Old 06-17-2007, 03:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


What gain screen are you using Tom?

A 100" StudioTek 130. I understand that with a higher gain screen I could go longer without replacing the bulb, but I really like the quality of the image I get from the StudioTek.

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post #193 of 392 Old 06-17-2007, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

I am at 670 hours on the lamp and I have lost about half of my original brightness. That puts me at about 9.5 fL, so it's time for a new bulb. This is the cost of doing business with this PJ.

Tom:

When Chuck Williams calibrated my XV-Z20000, he suggested that I await approximately 100 hours on the bulb. It was right about there when he did his work early last month.

Is there any reason I should expect that, when I eventually need a new bulb, any further calibration will be necessary? I'm assuming not, but thought I'd check.

Thanks,

Nick
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post #194 of 392 Old 06-17-2007, 06:49 PM
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Tom,

I'm at about 1200 hours on my bulb, High Contrast, Eco mode, and on a 110" High Power it's still very satisfying. I had a Stewart Firehawk before and it definitely had a sheen, but this HP has none. It's a beautiful image! I don't know if I'll make it to almost 3000 hours before it gets too dim, but here's the thing - with the cost of 20k lamps, you could pretty much pay for an HP screen with the money you save on lamps. Of course, you have to be able to sit in the HP "cone" to realize the gain, but if you can do that, there's really no down side to the screen in terms of image quality.

BTW, I had my ISF calibration, and the natural skin tones are striking. Love this projector.

Joe Clark

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post #195 of 392 Old 07-03-2007, 12:45 AM
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Can anyone tell me if any of the video modes allow the use of a lense for a 2.35 scope screen without the use of an outboard scaler? Can not tell from the manual or find any references in this thread. Thanks in advance.
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post #196 of 392 Old 07-03-2007, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by video_bit_bucket View Post

Can anyone tell me if any of the video modes allow the use of a lense for a 2.35 scope screen without the use of an outboard scaler? Can not tell from the manual or find any references in this thread. Thanks in advance.

Unfortunately you need a scaler. That is from what I remember when I looked into the sharp 4 months ago

Joe.T
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post #197 of 392 Old 07-03-2007, 07:26 AM
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I've seen the Sharp several times (with Blu Ray/HD-DVD) a while back, but recently saw it again playing an excellent HD feed (some cop/monster show) on a Stewart Firehawk screen. What an unbelievable picture. The color, contrast and clarity are so amazing for a projector and the clarity/sharpness gave up nothing to the plasmas. Wow! (As I always say, too mad I see "rainbows" with single chip DLP).
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post #198 of 392 Old 07-03-2007, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Is there any reason I should expect that, when I eventually need a new bulb, any further calibration will be necessary?

I made some minor changes to the gray scale when I put the new bulb in, but they were really small. The CMS setting didn't change at all.

BTW, putting in a new bulb took me from 9.5 fL in Bright mode to 13.5 fL in Eco mode. To be quite honest, the difference was almost imperceptible. I could have easily gone another couple of months before changing bulbs. This experience causes me to re-evaluate what amount of brightness I consider minimally acceptable.

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post #199 of 392 Old 07-03-2007, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

I made some minor changes to the gray scale when I put the new bulb in, but they were really small. The CMS setting didn't change at all.

BTW, putting in a new bulb took me from 9.5 fL in Bright mode to 13.5 fL in Eco mode. To be quite honest, the difference was almost imperceptible. I could have easily gone another couple of months before changing bulbs. This experience causes me to re-evaluate what amount of brightness I consider minimally acceptable.

Thanks, Tom. This projector continues to deliver superbly in every aspect, and it makes me happy that I have it instead of my Qualia '004. The latter was also great, but, when I consider that I paid under $6,000 for a brand new XV-Z20000--with an additional warranty (two years) from Sharp, to boot--I feel a lot more financially flexible for the next new great thing that comes 'round the pike.

By the way, is it true that Sharp has discontinued this projector? If so, people should start to drool to snap them up at the likely discounts that will be around.

Thanks,

Nick
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post #200 of 392 Old 07-03-2007, 01:19 PM
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Still going strong in High Contrast/Eco mode on a Da-Lite High Power, with over 1300 hours on the lamp. And unlike my Optoma H79, I haven't had a single issue with the Sharp 20k.

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post #201 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I was wondering what iris setting other owners of the 20K use? I find that the high brightness mode unacceptably elevates the black level to the point that I wouldn't seriously consider this setting for HT use. What's odd is that the CR is around 1800:1, which isn't exactly horrible.

Although I see a difference between the high contrast and medium modes, the difference seems really small to my eyes. Furthermore, the increased brightness in medium is more noticeable to me than the very small subjective loss in contrast. Thus, I prefer the medium mode. I just don't perceive enough increased performance at high contrast to justify the loss of lumens.

I'm curious how others see this.

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post #202 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 08:55 AM
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I use high contrast mode. Since I have over 1600 hours on my lamp now, I switched to medium recently but I switched back, because the image seemed flatter. I'm still pretty happy with the brightness, so I think I'm probably good for a few hundred more hours before I'll have to switch out the lamp. I might even just order a new lamp and let this one fail, if it doesn't get too much worse (though I probably won't get much past 2000 hours). I'm using a High Power screen.

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post #203 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 10:06 AM
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High Contrast mode here too. High Brightness & Medium modes don't distinguish this pj from most other 1080 DLPs; HC is what makes this pj special...

However, I have a 100% light controlled environment, and I doubt HC would work in anything else.

To my eyes, the greatest difference is between HB & Medium. The difference between Medium & HC is slight, but I do feel the lumen loss justifies the better contrast on most images.
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post #204 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 10:30 AM
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HC mode pretty much exclusively. Sometimes at the end of the bulb life (speaking on my Sharp 12k -- the 20k bulb is still new), I'd bump up to medium, but just until I replaced the bulb. I can definitely see a difference between medium and HC in image depth (and I've tested this on unwitting friends as well).

I've had the 10k, then the 12k and now the 20k and I love the pic and how much better it's gotten with each generation. The colors in the 20k are much deeper (after calibration) than the 12k too.

I also have a 100% light controlled room and use a silverstar screen.
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post #205 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 10:43 AM
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I'm going to need a lamp for the 20k before too long. Anyone have a good source?

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post #206 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 10:51 AM
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anyone tried this with a Silverstar screen?

You are born with a gift. Life is all about understanding, nurturing and sharing it.

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post #207 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirby View Post

anyone tried this with a Silverstar screen?

2 posts up.

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post #208 of 392 Old 08-03-2007, 07:24 PM
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Originally posted by Nick:

Quote:
By the way, is it true that Sharp has discontinued this projector? If so, people should start to drool to snap them up at the likely discounts that will be around.

Where did you hear the 20000 is discontinued?

On the Canadian Sharp website they still list it under "new products"
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post #209 of 392 Old 08-05-2007, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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BTW, I recently took some extensive measurements of the 20K as a contribution to Mark Peterson's contrast project. I discovered a couple of interesting facts.

First, there is considerable variation in the performance of bulbs. I just replaced my bulb and I'm getting 20-25% less on/off contrast than I got with the original, both in their new state. ANSI seems about the same, though.

Second, in the High Contrast mode, the 20K not only returns better on/off contrast. It also returns better ANSI contrast, especially when you use one of Mark's 20 APL patterns, rather than the 50 APL pattern more commonly used for this test. This is important because 20 APL is around the brightness that most movies are filmed. Very few scenes go above 40 APL or below 10 APL.

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post #210 of 392 Old 08-05-2007, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

BTW, I recently took some extensive measurements of the 20K as a contribution to Mark Peterson's contrast project. I discovered a couple of interesting facts.

First, there is considerable variation in the performance of bulbs. I just replaced my bulb and I'm getting 20-25% less on/off contrast than I got with the original, both in their new state. ANSI seems about the same, though.

Second, in the High Contrast mode, the 20K not only returns better on/off contrast. It also returns better ANSI contrast, especially when you use one of Mark's 20 APL patterns, rather than the 50 APL pattern more commonly used for this test. This is important because 20 APL is around the brightness that most movies are filmed. Very few scenes go above 40 APL or below 10 APL.

Where did you get your lamp, Tom? I'm going to need one before long.

What were your measurements for on/off with the second lamp?

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