The lens is among the most flexible I have ever seen. Its throw is 1.4-2.8x screen widths, which is a huge range. The vertical offset is +/- 80% of screen height, and horizontal offset is +/- 36% of width. To figure out if it will work, simply start by taking the viewable width of your screen (16:9) and multiply that by 1.4 and 2.8. The resulting numbers are the range the lens can be placed from the screen. For the shifts, simply take the height or width (depending on if you are doing vertical or horizontal) and multiply that by the appropriate offset percentage. That resulting number is then the amount the lens can be away from the center point of the screen. That will tell you if you can make it work in your setup. The lens is fully manual, so zoom, focus, and shift are all done on the unit itself with knobs and by turning the lens rings. I would have liked to have seen motorized, but 99% of us set it and forget it anyways, so it is not a big deal. I should mention that I see why the lens protectors are shipped with it. The knobs for v/h shift are very easily rotated, almost feeling a tad loose. I don't feel this will affect the performance in anyway as the lens quality itself is very good, and in my playing around the lens didn't move at all unless I rotated the knobs.
I got it all hooked up to my test gear first, and fired it up. The fan started up on it and was a sounded as a low drone. I would say it was comparable to the average projector on the market today (not the quietest I have heard, but with normal audio going during a movie, it would blend into the background very easily). I adjusted the image using the focus/zoom rings and the shift knobs (for my testing I centered the horizontal) but lifted the vertical. Before I would do any testing, I decided to take a look at the menu. It is a well laid out transparent gray color. I found it easy to navigate and it had about everything you would need right in the main menu. I found a pixel adjustment setting and was very excited. The actual panel on the RS1 is a few pixels bigger than 1920x1080. This allows them to digital move the image up, down and side to side by 1 pixel increments. Very slick for stacking and the occasional misconvergence. Speaking of that, I check my convergence very closelyI had about 1/3 pixel shift red down on the top of the screen. This is actually very good and was not noticeable beyond about 4 feet. It's just too bad the pixel adjustment feature only works in 1 pixel increments.
The uniformity was excellent, near perfect, so that is a plus as well. The main menu did have grayscale adjustments. One thing that is peculiar is that that gain and offset adjustments for the grayscale are under 2 separate menus. So you have to go into the 1 menu called Color Temp and adjust the gain. Then you have to exit that and go into another menu called Offset and adjust the bias. It works, but I thought it was a strange way of doing it. In addition, I was not able to simply tweak the Middle color temp. I had to start from scratch on a user setting, so that made it a bit more work. Moving on. I took some measurements of the primary/secondary colors and the grayscale. I used the Natural preset and Middle for color temp. The unit, as advertised, was near perfect D65 (slightly below on my test sample). This is excellent for those who don't want to get a calibration done. In fact, I messed with it to see if I could get it any better and really I could only achieve various subtle differences in the calibration, but never really got it better than it was out of the box. I will probably play with that more when I get a permanent demo unit and have more time. The colors were very good as well. Red, Magenta and Blue were very close to the CIE standard chart. Green, Yellow and Cyan were a bit oversaturated but not too bad (Green was the most noticeable). I would have liked to have had adjustments for this, but the unit doesn't have that capability currently. I went an adjusted the standard adjustments to get it to where it needed to be (i.e. Contrast, sharpness, etc). I should mention there is gamma and DNR built in. The gamma was subtle between the settings. I personally found the default Normal the best. When poking around the menu, I did find that out of the box it was in Normal mode for the lamp output. This was good and bad. I was able to put it into High to really get some pop, but, as with anything, there was a downsidefan noise. It went up a decent amount. I would venture to say that if one does want this run in high mode all the time, you might consider a hush box (or with the flexible lens, putting into an adjoining room with a hole for the light to come through). If like most of us, you are planning to only use high for daytime/sports/etcI don't think it is a concern.
Onto the measurements. As of late I have been taking measurements at both the long and short end of the throw to help adjust for changes in aperture. I did the same for this review. I only did the measurements with the vertical lens shift adjusted so that the image bottom and lens were equal (50%). Most of my readings are done below, but I have to talk about the contrast. Remember, this unit does not use a DI to aid in the contrast. At one of my settings, I was able to achieve over 18000:1 on/off contrast! Now that is impressive. To date, I have not tested a projector that comes even close to this level (in fact, the closest I got to this before was less than ½ that result). The unit has good brightness as well. I was able to achieve as high as 632 lumens (at D65 remember) from the RS1. Though not considered a light-cannon, this is plenty of output for most theater applications.
Alright, now it was time to put in some source material and fire up an image. In a wordgorgeous. The first thing anyone will notice is the deep black levels. They are black. In fact, when I was measuring for contrast I had to get my meter very, very close to the lens to even get it to take a reading. This translates directly to the image. This is the first projector I would comfortably put up against a CRT in this arena. Yes, the black levels are that good. This in turn aids in making the colors absolutely pop. All the colors were extremely rich and saturated, but not to the point of being cartoonish. They still remained very natural looking. The unit is capable of excellent sharpness. In fact, this is by far the sharpest projector in this general technology class (DILA, LCOS, SXRD, and LCD). I do find that DLP still has a tad of an edge in this regard, but not by much anymore and the gap I'm sure will close with future versions of this. I tested this on my 103 Vutec Silverstar, and the image just jumped off the screen. The pictures don't do it justice at all. I would say this most definitely will benefit from a white/silver screen with some gain. I think that in a higher ambient light situation, a gray screen will work, but if possible, stay away from it (my opinion of courseconsult your dealer for recommendations on your own room). The image was very clean as well. I only used the HDMI output of my HD DVD player to feed itno video processing. The internal VXP processor does an amazing job at up converting and cleaning up the image. Even standard DVD's (like the Cars pictures), looked stunning.