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post #1 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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The Official RS1 / HD1 Calibration Thread

The purpose of this thread is to provide tips and tricks for getting the best performance out of the RS1.

PLEASE KEEP THIS THREAD ON TOPIC! All discussions should be specific to calibration and video PQ related settings of the RS1/ HD1. Before posting anything, please ask yourself if your post pertains directly to this topic.

Questions such as Is the RS1 bright enough for my screen? and How many hours do I get from the bulb are examples of OFF TOPIC matters. If your question does not pertain directly to calibration or other such picture quality adjustments, please post it in the RS1 Owners thread here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=813550 or elsewhere.

If you post measured lumens and/or ftL, please be sure to include: your throw distance, hours on the bulb, diagonal screen size, screen type and gain, and whether you are at D65.

NOTE: I am NOT a professional reviewer or calibrator, nor do I play one on TV! These are just my findings and opinions and YMMV. Before making any decisions please consult a professional.

So without further ado I will get us started with my preliminary findings from several days of experiments. Having had the RS1 for less than a week, keep in mind this is a work in progress. I hope you will chime in with your own findings, clarifications or any calibration related questions you have.

For reference these measurements were taken with 2-20 hours on the bulb, from just under mid throw (2.02:1 to be exact). I have a 106 1.3 gain Firehawk screen (throw about 15.5 feet). Results were taken using ColorFacts and the SpderTV meter trained to an EyeOne beamer. This approach combines the accuracy of the EyeOne with the low level light reading capabilities of the SpyderTV meter, allowing accurate readings down to 5 IRE. Note however that it also means that any color shift introduced by the Firehawk is accounted for in this calibration - if you have a different type of screen this may have a slight impact on your results.

ABOUT THE OUT OF THE BOX (OOTB) SETTINGS
The OOTB settings with the lamp on Normal measured fairly close to D65, despite a greater variance in dE than I prefer. The Middle color temp measured a bit cool. I measured 10-100 IRE between 6825 - 7042 with a dE from 5-10 through the range. This is a bit cooler than I've read others have measured, but this could be a variance in the bulb.

Despite the deviation from D65, relative to this cooler color temperature the grayscale was rather flat (all measurements were within a dE of 5 in its own range). Therefore you should see very little error when viewing a grayscale test pattern.

In particular here are the measurements OOTB on Normal lamp with Middle color setting in conjunction with the Firehawk screen:

IRE CT dE
10 7042 10
20 6996 9
30 6856 5
40 6863 5
50 6989 7
60 6934 7
70 6918 6
80 6904 6
90 6829 5
100 6825 5

A NOTE ABOUT HDMI LEVELS
It is important that you set the RS1's HDMI Level to Standard or Enhanced according to your source. Normally with video such as from your STB or HD DVD player the Standard setting for HDMI would be the right choice; with Enhanced the right choice when feeding the RS1 from a PC or most external processors such as a Lumagen.

Here is a quick test you can do to determine if you have chosen the right source for your HDMI Level, With your RS1 contrast and brightness set at 0 and HDMI Level set to Standard, display a 0 IRE pattern or fade-to-black scene from a movie. Then switch the HDMI Level on the RS1 to Enhanced. If the Standard setting is indeed the correct one, you should see the black level rise significantly when switching to Enhanced. If not then enhanced is probably the correct setting.

SETTING CONTRAST AND BRIGHTNESS
Before adjusting the grayscale it is important to set the correct HDMI level as described above, and to also adjust contrast and brightness as needed.

I found that generally speaking a setting of 0 was correct for both the brightness and contrast of my STB and HD DVD sources. Just one click higher in contrast caused the -1% line in contrast patterns to clip, so there is indeed NO headroom to work with here.

I am using 0 for contrast to be as aggressive as possible with on/off CR, dynamic range and overall brightness. However without looking to hard I did find a scene where whites were clipping a tad at 0. Dropping this to -1 resolved the matter and provides a little headroom.

On the Brightness control I am using 0, but this is also a bit too aggressive as there are some fine details I noticed that get crushed at this setting. The challenge however is that raising this above 0 also raises the entire absolute black level. Raising this to +1 helps for the most part, but to eliminate most of the crush a setting of +2 would be more preferable. Currently I am adjusting this on a movie by movie basis, typically leaving it at 0. Certain scenes from Phantom OTO just looked a bit too dark in the details and +2 on brightness resolved this. Perhaps a custom gamma curve could help here. Unfortunately no such option is available.

CORRECTING FOR D65
Despite the very good calibration OOTB, those seeking the reference standard of D65 will need to make adjustments to lower the CT a bit and to minimize the dE. It is often recommended one should try to have a maximum dE of 3, as typically errors cannot be readily noticed by eye until the dE begins to rise higher.

To customize your grayscale you will need instrumentation and calibration software. For those without these tools, it MAY be possible to copy other peoples recommended settings and get similar results. I say may because due to pj and bulb variances it is possible one person's numbers do not yield ideal results on another unit.

Start by selecting the User 1 setting for the color temperature within the RS1 menu. Once selected, you will have the ability to reduce red, green, and blue by significant amounts using the RGB controls.

When you select User 1 you'll notice the color temp will rise significantly. I did not measure, it but suspect it is about 9000K in this mode before adjustment. Note the limiting color within the RS1 is red. You therefore will need to drop the green and blue significantly until they are at the same level as red. This is what causes lumens to be lost as a result of calibrating to D65 (as it applies to all calibration not just the RS1).

To reach D65 in the Normal lamp setting I had to reduce green to -32 and blue to -55 using the RGB controls (see below for setting with High lamp). It took some experimenting to find the right balance between all the different IRE levels, as there is no control for lower IREs and higher IREs as is traditionally provided through gain and offset/bias controls.

This resulted in a calibration of 6414 - 6648K with a dE of 1-3 across the range except a dE of 4 at 10 and 40 IRE. 5 IRE had a dE of 14 compared to the 20 dE OOTB setting at 5 IRE. Although these results are acceptable to me I would much prefer LUT access and the ability to truly flatten out the grayscale. It may also be possible with more time and tinkering to get the grayscale from 10-100 IRE a bit flatter and hopefully a dE from just 0-3.

LUMENS, ON/OFF Contrast and ANSI CR
Since previews of the RS1 / HD1 starting appearing months ago we've seen a fairly large divergence in reported lumens and ON/OFF contrast. Some are measuring much higher than others. And this is after taking into account how the lumens are affected by throw distance.

Post calibration I measured 380 lumens in Normal mode and about 20% higher in High lamp mode from MID throw using the AEMC CA813 light meter. This is about 30% lower than what some others are reporting.

However when measuring the ftL directly off the screen with ColorFacts and the EyeOne sensor, I measured 17.09 ftL in Normal mode and 21.3 ftL respectively. Assuming a 1.3 gain on the Firehawk, this translate to 436 lumens in Normal mode and 535 in High. This still puts my measurements on the lower end of the spectrum, but not as much so as with the CA813 meter.

For ON/OFF Contrast I measured 11,880:1, Initially I had read about 9,500:1, but after moving the sensor from 20 of the lens to just 6 and using some black felt behind the meter the readings improved as noted. This is lower than the 13,500:1 and higher that others have reported at this throw.

As I write this we have some new RS1 owners reporting in with lower lumens and some with higher. Currently it remains a bit of a mystery what is causing this divergence in readings, and I certainly look forward to us eventually figuring out what is going on.

On the bright side (no pun intended) I measured 300:1 ANSI CR from the pj lens. This was about a 15-20 better reading than what had been reported earlier, and a nice surprise.

HIGH LAMP MODE
When switching between Normal lamp mode and High I was surprised to find that in High mode there was more Red in the bulb available. This means that in High mode it is not necessary to adjust green and blue quite as far down as in Normal mode. The result is a D65 calibration that enables you to drive the brightness about 5% higher - not accounting for the 20% or so higher than the High bulb makes prior to calibration. This was a welcome bonus. In particular I set green at -26 and blue at -49 (compared to -32 and -55 respectively in Normal lamp mode).

Regarding the Normal vs. High lamp mode, I don't really have a preference as the two look quite similar. A 20-25% increase in lumens does not translate visually to as much of a difference as one might think.

In fact if someone left the room for a moment and the lamp was changed from Normal to High or vice-versa, I doubt most people would even notice when returning to the room, except for the higher fan noise.

Currently the ftL I'm getting in Normal mode is plenty bright for my tastes. So my plan is to continue to use it on Normal mode for a few hundred hours until the bulb drops say 20-30%, then bump it up to High.

As a side note, it may be my imagination but I seem to feel that the brighter corners issue is more subtle for some reason in High lamp mode. For those truly bothered by this affect they may find the High mode more preferable in this regard.

Regarding the fan noise, I find the noise acceptable in Normal mode. It is not great and certainly noticeable during silent or very quiet portions of the movie. Keep in mind the pj is mounted directly about 5 feet above my viewing position.

COLORS
No doubt the RS1 is oversaturated. Green in particular measured practically off the chart. Overall I much prefer this over the standard Rec 709 specification. However there are occasions when the over saturation proves a bit distracting. One example is the foliage during LOST - it's a bit too neon-ish looking in the sunlight. As another example someone in a movie I was watching had on a magenta shirt, and it looked like the shirt was glowing.

Here is a shot of our the primaries and secondaries measured on my RS1 for the Rec 709 space via 1080p HDMI:


The green measurement is fairly extreme, a bit more so than what cine4home measured. This may be a measurement error with my instrumentation, or a difference in the units perhaps.

To understand that the RS1 has oversatured colors, one only needs to glance at the CIE chart. Blue and Red are a bit oversaturated but pleasingly so IMO. Red is not quite as oversatured as with the Ruby. The Hue for Magenta could use a little shift toward Red. The Hue for Yellow could use a little shift toward Red. Both Cyan and Magenta could benefit from a touch of desaturation.

If I had my druthers I'd like to pull green down closer to its Rec 709 target. Before getting too "freaked out" about the large shift in green, keep in mind that out of all the colors green is the least sensitive to such wide deviation in the target. In other words, if you took blue or red and moved it that far away from its target it would look awful. With green the actually color change visually is not as much as the chart would suggest. That being said, certainly it is oversaturated.

Unfortunately the color control is of little help IMO to try and adjust for this. The primary area that needs adjustment is the saturation of the colors. However the Color control on the RS1 only affects the Lightness (Y) of each color and has little or no impact on its saturation or hue.

Therefore the video purist I'm sure will take great issue with this. However those the prefer a more vivid palette will enjoy it in most cases, and only find certain scenes distracting if at all. Since the RS1 has no color management system, an external processor such as the Lumagen may be helpful in adjusting the colors as may be preferred by the viewer.

SHARPNESS
The sharpness of the RS1 is very good IMO, especially for a three chip projector. It was very interesting to note that raising the Sharpness control from its default of 0 added no ringing to the image. Even when cranking this up all the way to 30 little or no ringing was detected.

I've been using the Sharpness control at 12 - 15. While this may be technically incorrect (a frowned upon thing to do by the experts), it seems to add a slight sharpening affect to the image without much if any downside.


More updates will be coming as we receive feedback from expert and other calibrators in the forum. Please feel free to chime in with your input or questions. As a reminder please keep all posts in this thread strictly on the topic of calibration related matters.
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post #2 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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post #3 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 05:56 PM - Thread Starter
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post #4 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 06:04 PM
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Excellent. Thanks for starting this Ric. I'll post my CT's once I've measured them too.
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post #5 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 07:02 PM
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Well, if calibration/tweaks are going to be discussed here and not the owner's thread, I see myself spending much more time here than the owners thread (once I get the dang thing)!
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post #6 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 07:37 PM
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Thanks a bundle for posting your measurements/info especially with your settings for the user1 colour temp. Yes I know I will have different values but it is nice to get a starting point of where to set blue/green in relation to being closer to accurate thank the obvious maxed out values and it won't be hard to adjust my levels from your values so I can slap those in and go from there. I am happy to see someone else report that their middle colour temp was on the cool side since mine is as well.

I do not have the software to report on my CR or lumen output but I would think based on looking at the screen I have a lamp producing a good amount of lumens on the normal mode with my 106" 1.1 gain dalite HCCV and while comments on brightness without numbers is subjective, I would say based on reports of those who say theirs is dim that mine is brighter than what they are seeing but am sure my full field/screen black level is higher than theirs since my lamp is brighter.

On my RS1 the contrast setting needs to be at about -3 at the most before some clipping starts to happen. I have mine set at -5 just to give the thing a tad more headroom. My brightness setting is at +1 even though 0 could also work but there'd be a bit of lost detail at 0. I believe the best setting would be +0.5 but since we can't do that I am going with +1 for the icnreased detail. Anything +3 and above and the black level brightens up big time so the range on my RS1 is between 0 and +2 although +2 is a bit too high.

I have my colour setting at -5 which is what spydertv pro said to set it at. I do not find the oversaturation to be an issue while watching hddvd, dvd or bluray (I do have Lost season 1 on dvd here via rental so I can check it out on the RS1 this weekend) via hdmi but when watching hd cable via component it is clear to see the colours are oversaturated. Possibly with more movie viewing I will see the saturation issue come into play but really, right now it doesn't seem to have obvious oversaturated colours with those HDMI sources.

Forgive my ignorance but what is dE and how does the different values for it affect the image?

Thank you for starting this thread as it is exactly what I have been waiting for.

ROB
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post #7 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 08:13 PM
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My HP screen hasn't arrived yet, but I've done Brightness and Contrast settings with the RS1 showing on my offwhite wall (amazing how good it looks even this way!) I connect a Comcast 3416 stb and a Pio 59avi dvd player both by HDMI (through an HDMI switch, so both cable tv and the dvd go into the same HDMI input on the RS1); the RS1 is right near min throw (~12.5 ft), projecting a 126" diag 9x16 pic (which is what my HP screen will be).

If I set Br and Cst in the standard way--i.e., so that the blackest bar in DVE (on the dvd player), and that in the INHD Tune Up pattern, just blends into the black background--this give a Br setting of ~ -8 to -10. But I actually find this too dark for me, and move it up to ~ -5; seems to be a better balanced pic. And Contrast is doesn't merge the whitest white panels until ~ + 5 or so, but I back it off to ~ 0.

I will re-do these and report when I get my screen set up.
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post #8 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

[b]
COLORS
No doubt the RS1 is oversaturated. Green in particular measured practically off the chart. Overall I much prefer this over the standard Rec 709 specification. However there are occasions when the over saturation proves a bit distracting. One example is the foliage during LOST - it's a bit too neon-ish looking in the sunlight. As another example someone in a movie I was watching had on a magenta shirt, and it looked like the shirt was glowing.

Unfortunately the color control is of little help IMO to try and adjust for this. The primary area that needs adjustment is the saturation of the colors. However the Color control on the RS1 only affects the Lightness (Y) of each color and has little or no impact on its saturation or hue.

Therefore the video purist I'm sure will take great issue with this. However those the prefer a more vivid palette will enjoy it in most cases, and only find certain scenes distracting if at all. Since the RS1 has no color management system, an external processor such as the Lumagen may be helpful in adjusting the colors as may be preferred by the viewer.

Ric, how do the primaries in the RS1 compare to your Ruby in terms of saturation? Also, how do the controls over color in the Ruby (CMS?) compare to the RS1?

If this is off topic, let me know and I will delete this post and we can take it to PM's.
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post #9 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reio-ta View Post

Delta Error (delta-E): A measurement of color difference. In theory, delta-E is the smallest color change someone with normal color vision can detect.

"Under ideal viewing conditions a Delta-E of 1 represents a just perceptible colour difference to the human eye although in less than ideal lighting values of between 2 or 3 can be considered as equivalent. "

Perceptibility will vary significantly with the amount of motion in the image. The more motion, the less perceptible the color error. The rule of thumb is that you want it under 4 throughout the heart of the grayscale. However, some people/reviewers use other, related measures of color error (e.g., dC*), but still report it as dE*. See the calibration forum for more info.

I'm in wave 3, so the RS1 should be about completely scoped out by the time I get mine. That being said, I am VERY interested to know if we can convince JVC to let us have access to more calibration controls (e.g., the traditional gamma tables they use). It would be even better if we could access it via serial control...

Bill

Color accuracy evangelist and CalMAN insider
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post #10 of 983 Old 03-15-2007, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

Just think of a dart board and the center is D65. Delta E (dE) is the distance from the center (error). A Delta E of 3-4 is generally detectable by the human eye. dE, while being an error, it doesn't tell you what direction the error is, you will need the x/y coordinates.

A little more info --- dE is the normalized distance from D65 in CIE u',v' coordinates rather than CIE x,y coordinates. That makes the value of dE (distance from D65) more perceptually uniform in all directions from D65. In other words, dE = 3 in a direction toward red, should be about as noticeable as a dE = 3 in a direction toward green. But in the x,y plane they would be at different distances from D65.

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post #11 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 02:50 AM
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What Gamma setting are people using? I tend to use 'A' for DVDs and a mixture of 'A' and 'normal' for HD DVDs. The 'A' setting with DVDs seems to give background details a bit more depth and a more natural look. With some HD DVDs 'normal' seems to give the image a bit more 'pop'. Just my take on it.

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post #12 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 03:48 AM
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I found the settings for the different colour temps in the service menu. IIRC the "user" settings all default to "0" meaning you can't dial in from the existing presents and must start afresh. These values contained in the service menu provide a useful reference point.

Colour temp

"Low preset"
Red 0
Green -32
Blue -53

"Middle preset"
Red 0
Green -25
Blue -37

"High preset"
Red 0
Green 0
Blue 0

I guess the values will be potenially different for each unit.

Dazzer
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post #13 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 06:17 AM
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And the next question is .....
How does one get into the service menu ?

- Andy
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post #14 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

AFAIK, dE is used in error, since we typically don't measure x,y,Y values for grayscale, we should be talking about dC. dC is basically the same as dE when luminance is not used in the calculation.

Glen - dC* has a very significant, and underappreciated, influence from luminance (L*). Please read my old post on the subject here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6637132

To mitigate the effects of L*, we offer a "gamma corrected" dE measure, but you never completely eliminate the effects of L* on color error (no light, no color!). The rest of this discussion should probably go into the calibration forum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Lammer View Post

And the next question is .....
How does one get into the service menu ?

- Andy

Agreed!

Bill

Color accuracy evangelist and CalMAN insider
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post #15 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 07:51 AM
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If no one is willing to post how to access the service menu in a public forum (which is understandable), could someone at least post what settings are in there? So far, all I've heard is that they're fairly useless and all I've seen are the color temp settings posted by dazzerxxx.

Enjoy!

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post #16 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzerxxx View Post

Colour temp

"Low preset"
Red 0
Green -32
Blue -53

Dazzer

Very interesting - that is extremely close to my reported D65 calibration (green -32, blue -55). And judging from the Middle temperature, that would also indicate why I found that setting a bit too cool (6800-7000K).

Also interesting is that early on I recall Cine4home reporting that strangely the "Low" setting was the one for D65. Later he and others reported that Middle was the D65 setting. But based on this, I'm not so sure about that. At least with my unit.
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post #17 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Tomlin View Post

how do the primaries in the RS1 compare to your Ruby in terms of saturation?

I updated the COLOR section in the first post to include a screen shot of the CIE chart and some additional commentary.

Quote:


Also, how do the controls over color in the Ruby (CMS?) compare to the RS1?

If this is off topic, let me know and I will delete this post and we can take it to PM's.

See the additional commentary I added in the first post. Also check the cine4home review - he did a very nice job posting CIE charts side by side for the RS1 and Ruby to compare.
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post #18 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear5k View Post

Glen - dC* has a very significant, and underappreciated, influence from luminance (L*). Please read my old post on the subject here:.......

Since I am not qualified to give a full dissertation on the subject, covering all variables, etc. I withdraw my comments and have deleted my posts and will leave any further calibration comments to those who have absolute knowledge, I sure don't know it all.

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post #19 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzerxxx View Post

I found the settings for the different colour temps in the service menu. IIRC the "user" settings all default to "0" meaning you can't dial in from the existing presents and must start afresh. These values contained in the service menu provide a useful reference point.

Colour temp

"Low preset"
Red 0
Green -32
Blue -53

"Middle preset"
Red 0
Green -25
Blue -37

"High preset"
Red 0
Green 0
Blue 0

I guess the values will be potenially different for each unit.

Dazzer

So in 'User 1', for example, of the Color Temp menu, if I set Green = -25, Blue = -37, this is equivalent to choosing the 'Middle' preset? What then does the 'Offset', with its 3 color adjustments, do to this? They are presumably not doing the same thing, are they?
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post #20 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

So in 'User 1', for example, of the Color Temp menu, if I set Green = -25, Blue = -37, this is equivalent to choosing the 'Middle' preset?

Yes, assuming of course that your factory menu uses those same numbers for the middle preset (we do not have info yet as to whether these are individually set at the factory or standard settings).

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What then does the 'Offset', with its 3 color adjustments, do to this? They are presumably not doing the same thing, are they?

I did not use the Offset control. It seems it could be useful later to fine tune the RGB settings as the lamp drifts. This is because it lefts you use negative and positive numbers for R, G, and B unlike the RGB control. Also offset would be useful those those that wish to tweak the present modes.

One interesting thing to note about the service mode setting presets - if these do not have separate adjustments for Normal vs. High lamp, then switching to High lamp would have a negative impact on the factor preset calibration (since as noted in the initial post there is a good amount of additional Red available in the bulb when used in High mode).
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post #21 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeSRC View Post

If no one is willing to post how to access the service menu in a public forum (which is understandable), could someone at least post what settings are in there? So far, all I've heard is that they're fairly useless and all I've seen are the color temp settings posted by dazzerxxx.

Mike

Not very much in there -

- Software version numbers
Main : 059
Sub : 0.19
Dd: 0c0f86
Osd: 012

- Pixel adjust option (appears the same as the user menu)
- Protocal = Cedia (not sure what this is maybe RS232 port ?)
- Colour temp preset adjustment (as posted)
- Test pattern options (some additional for MC)
- Factory reset option
- Info option (similar to user menu)

Dazzer
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post #22 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post


One interesting thing to note about the service mode setting presets - if these do not have separate adjustments for Normal vs. High lamp, then switching to High lamp would have a negative impact on the factor preset calibration (since as noted in the initial post there is a good amount of additional Red available in the bulb when used in High mode).

The values do not appear to change with "lamp" mode. Also the "colour adjust" menu option is only active when there is a source signal present.

There is also a "user1" and "user2" option. "user 1" is the same format as the presets i.e. highest level "0". However "user2" appears different with a centralised default setting of "-124" for each colour.

Dazzer
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post #23 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 09:45 AM
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Thanks dazzer. Sounds like the additional test patterns might be the only thing worthwhile for calibration. It will also be interesting to see if the software version changes in the next batch.

Enjoy!

Mike
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Contributing reviewer and THX calibrator, ProjectorReviews.com
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post #24 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 10:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSRC View Post

Sounds like the additional test patterns might be the only thing worthwhile for calibration.

Agree and was thinking the same thing. Its too bad there are no further calibration controls available in there. However this is not surprising given that motto that this machine does not need advanced calibration which seems to be what JVC has said or is implying. And which so far has proven incorrect. LUT access is sorely needed actually.

At any rate the additional MC test pattern sounds useful at least. Can this pattern be displayed while using the panel alignment option? Its a real PITA to have to break out the PC with DVI to feed a pixel perfect MC pattern to the RS1, so hopefully this will make that unnecessary.
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post #25 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Agree and was thinking the same thing. Its too bad there are no further calibration controls available in there. However this is not surprising given that motto that this machine does not need advanced calibration which seems to be what JVC has said or is implying. And which so far has proven incorrect. LUT access is sorely needed actually.

I'm glad to see others have the same feelings. Does anyone have any idea why they neglected to do this??? I'm going nuts trying to figure out how to get accurate colors out of this PJ w/o spending thousands on an external processor...
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post #26 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet1 View Post

I'm glad to see others have the same feelings. Does anyone have any idea why they neglected to do this??? I'm going nuts trying to figure out how to get accurate colors out of this PJ w/o spending thousands on an external processor...

To make you buy their thousand dollar processor they are coming out with?


JOKING! But seriously, would that not make sense?
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post #27 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Word is they are working on LUT access but not to expect it anytime soon. How a "reference series" projector aimed at the professional market does not have even basic calibration tools (such as SEPARATE gain and offsets) is puzzling.

BTW Wet1 LUT access would not help you with regards to oversaturation. You need a CMS for that and I'd say there is zero chance you'll see that added to the RS1. Maybe in the next gen unit...maybe.

That being said IMO the oversaturation is tolerable unless you are more of a purist and want reference colors. As mentioned several people myself included actually prefer the oversaturation. I would have at least preferred a color control that actually works to reduce saturation, however, to go along with it so it could be at least minimized to taste.

What the LUT access is really needed for is: 1) to truly flatten out the grayscale (my Ruby was much flatter), 2) to customize gamma curves, and 3) to adjust shading and uniformity.
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post #28 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 12:10 PM
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"Its a real PITA to have to break out the PC with DVI to feed a pixel perfect MC pattern to the RS1, so hopefully this will make that unnecessary."

Interesting point.

I was thinking a crosshatch from a DVD would be fine, but there's no guarranty that you won't get rows or columns of gray pixels.

But good enough, I guess? When people report on MC, what are you using?

Noah
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post #29 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

When people report on MC, what are you using?

Lumagen 1080p white crosshatch full screen test pattern.

Dazzer
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post #30 of 983 Old 03-16-2007, 12:20 PM
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Quote:


I was thinking a crosshatch from a DVD would be fine, but there's no guarranty that you won't get rows or columns of gray pixels.

Exactly. If they provided an internally generated white crosshatch, you would see the convergence errors clearer. Hmmm.
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