Optoma H78DC3 & H79 Bulb Data - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 90 Old 05-29-2007, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
 
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In hopes of further sussing out this bulb problem, I'd like to get as many examples as we can of bulb numbers for these projectors.

In the bulb carrier you have to take out 3 of the 4 screws holding the reflector in the carrier, because the numbers we want are on the screw-base side.

What good does this do? I suspect the bulb and reflector come as a unit from Philips, which likely does not sell in small quantities, and Optoma has abandoned us. I think alot of people are affected by the bulb fiasco and would like a discounted bulb, so maybe I can arrange a bulk-buy. But first we need to know what to get.

So whether you have an old bulb or new, strap one on for the cause, and take out some screws to give us some numbers. Mine are attached.
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post #2 of 90 Old 05-29-2007, 09:19 PM
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There was a survey poll (here) of Optoma 77,78,79 bulb life in 2005 you should read those results.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=optoma+poll

Also there was some discusion of actually just replaceing the lamp in the reflector and a guy was importing them just for this purpose. You can pick up on the discussion here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10579665

I have the 79.
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post #3 of 90 Old 05-30-2007, 01:47 AM
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Considering the absurdity of the litigation culture in the US, I am surprised that many contributers on this forum seem resigned to accepting that a bulb that is advertised with 2-3k hours life expectancy, will actually die before 500 hours! First and foremost, our purchase contract is with the projector manufacturer (Optoma) and we should not concern ourselves with Philipps etc, it is Optoma who chose to source the bulb and they have implemented it in their projector.

Anyway, back to my rant. As someone who has suffered bulb failure and complete projector failure after 20 hours, it is astonishing that we are amusing ourselves with finding out how whether this is a bad batch or not. It is clear from reading these forums that there is a serious manufacturing flaw. Now hopefully some ambitious lawyer should be considering whether there is some mileage in a class action worlwide against Optoma for selling projectors which contain parts they know will probably fail well before a reasonable use period.

Furthermore, has anyone sent their pristine project to Optoma only to find that it comes back from the workshop scratched, damaged and with finger prints on the bulb. What kind of workshops are they operating?

For the record, my projector was bought in France and has been to Optoma three times now in the space of 3 months. The reasons:

1. no thread on baseplate fixings to accept ceiling mount - doh!
2. bulb died after 4 films
3. projector dead, no life, does even power on (oh and workshop had decided to ram the power socket halfway into the box - maybe why it is dead)

I made the mistake of buying the projector prior to finishing my home cinema so it was a number of months before I even opened the box and encountered these problems, so I lost the opportunity to send it back to the shop. Anyway, it is still under guarantee and happily spending its life in the workshop instead of my home cinema.
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post #4 of 90 Old 05-30-2007, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantumstate View Post

I suspect the bulb and reflector come as a unit from Philips, which likely does not sell in small quantities, and Optoma has abandoned us.

The bulb comes from Philips. I've checked my bulb's and they all are like the one in your picture. I think it was even mentioned in the Optoma brochures that UHP bulb is from Philips.
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post #5 of 90 Old 05-30-2007, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
 
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BIGmouthinDC, thanks for the link. Part of this is I am trying to figure out what is actually the part number. So if anyone can enlighten us as to what the numbers mean on the bulb, please step up. If you don't, we are all equally ignorant.

lavarenne, personally I do not believe we have a "litigation culture", and I do not think litigation is absurd. It is an equalizer for when big corporations abuse their position of trust, as we see in this case. However unfortunately two years or so ago, Republicans made class-action suits just about impossible to certify, in order to protect big corporations from us small fry. That doesn't stop us from Small Claims Court though, which would actually be far more expensive for Optoma, and far less money would go to lawyers if enough of us did it. Unfortunately though most of us have been trained to be frightened of that.

Big Lebowski, I don't know what you mean by "all are like the one in your picture". What we would like to do is figure out the numbers, so what are the numbers on your bulbs? Anyone who can check, is helping. Also, what I was saying above is that I suspect the envelope and reflector come as one unit, rather than separately.
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post #6 of 90 Old 05-31-2007, 02:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantumstate View Post

Big Lebowski, I don't know what you mean by "all are like the one in your picture". What we would like to do is figure out the numbers, so what are the numbers on your bulbs?

I ment the numbers, they are all same except the one that is under the "Made in Belgium" text, which I believe is the serial number.

I think model number is TOP 222, but I may be wrong.
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post #7 of 90 Old 05-31-2007, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Big Lebowski, but it doesn't make sense that the number in the upper-right is the same as mine. I'm thinking that might be a rev number.

Also I think it's possible that the laser-engraved numbers could be the serial number, although it would be surprising if they serialize these.
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post #8 of 90 Old 05-31-2007, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantumstate View Post

Thanks Big Lebowski, but it doesn't make sense that the number in the upper-right is the same as mine. I'm thinking that might be a rev number.

Oh that one, it is probably a rev number like you suggested. I never thought it would be important. On second thought I think that model number also include UHP 250W 1.35.
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post #9 of 90 Old 05-31-2007, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Agree. I suspect that 1.35 might have to do with the starting timing or striking voltage, which determines which driver it will work with.

But if I'm understanding you, that long number at bottom is different on every one of your bulbs, and different from mine? And the rev number is different on all? What about the rest of the numbers? Exactly the same?

And all your bulbs are for the H78DC3/H79?
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post #10 of 90 Old 05-31-2007, 10:40 PM
 
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The H 77 78 and 79 all use the same exact lamp as these 3 Pj's are all basicly the same machine with small differances suposidly in the DLP chip.


I had my H77 blow its 1st lamp at 1300 hours not even close to 3000 hours. I had my H79 customer blow his lamp at 600 hrs. I ran my 77 in low power he ran his 79 in high.

Just do what I do now....DONT BUY or SELL OPTOMA there a buch of fools over there that cant make a decent projector. They can make them just last till its gets out of warrenty then your S O O L and they tell you a bunch of BS.

I will never sell another OPTOMA I dont care if they make one as good as an RS one for 1/2 the price. They screwed me too many times, now I will help screw them if there is a class action law suit. I know a bunch of people that will join in that!
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post #11 of 90 Old 06-01-2007, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantumstate View Post

But if I'm understanding you, that long number at bottom is different on every one of your bulbs, and different from mine?

Yes, I just checked my failed lamp and that long number at bottom is different from yours. Other bulb is in my projector but I remember checking those numbers when I installed it and long number at bottom was different.

Quote:


And the rev number is different on all?

I never really paid so much attention to that number so I never wrote it down, and my failed lamp is back in the assembled condition, so I cannot see the rev number.

I never really paid so much attention to these two numbers you are talking about, since I was under the impression right away when I looked at the bulb that "TOP 222 UHP 250W 1.35" are the ones that matter.

Quote:


What about the rest of the numbers? Exactly the same?

Rest of the numbers shown in your first photo are exactly same on my bulbs.
Quote:


And all your bulbs are for the H78DC3/H79?

My bulbs are H78 (euro). It is the same bulb in all H77, H78, H78DC and H79 projectors.
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post #12 of 90 Old 06-01-2007, 05:59 PM
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I did the upgrade on Artur's PJ a few weeks ago and he had just changed just the bulb part with the Top 222 250w 1.35. I tested the brightness of his bulb and it was right at the numbers of all the PJ's I've tested with new bulbs. Right at 16ft candles in bright mode.

Seems the replacments do work.

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post #13 of 90 Old 06-02-2007, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
 
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OK, I am working on an upgrade for the shabby design Optoma gave us. The basic problem is there is not enough cooling, so one of the newer more efficient lamps must be used. BTW, 1.35 in the number is the electrode gap, and is huge by today's standards.

Basically I have in mind one of the new advanced lamp+driver systems, which I could do upgrades for ~$650. Of course this would void your Optoma warranty and wouldn't prevent the color-wheel shattering-to-pieces problem, but it would give you the bulb life we thought we were supposed to get and much better.

But before I can move forward I need some detail on the internals of the projector, or else I can't match the equipment. Is there a source for reliable technical information on these projectors, like DMD panel, light-engine specs etc?
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post #14 of 90 Old 06-02-2007, 07:32 PM
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Some members were thinking the bulb case in the HC2000 has different cooling channels that could be why there weren't many bulb complaints with the model.

Noboby ever had the service manual on the H7x projectors, I've had enough of them apart though. You'll be surprised how well the inside looks, looks pretty well made. If you want details on how to open it up I can help.

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post #15 of 90 Old 06-03-2007, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Thanks Tom, but I've had it apart to the point of snapping the attached. That's the lamp driver, underneath the mainboard and inside the plenum.

I need at least minimal technical details like the type & size of DMD, type & speed of color wheel, etc, so I can match one of the modern lamp systems to them. The more info, the better.
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post #16 of 90 Old 06-03-2007, 09:58 AM
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Ok next week I'll see what kind of data they could send me.

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post #17 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
 
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OK, I was right originally, that TOP means that that side of the reflector must be on top during operation. It is not part of the designator. Neither is 222, which is the Customer Type Number. I know what the rest of the numbers mean now too, but nobody cares.

I am suspicioning that 90% of us run the projector upside-down. I for one, will rotate the reflector 180º before I run it much longer. The correct burning position is with TOP, up, dammit.

The best switching cycle is no less than 2 hours on and at least 15 minutes off. Switching cycles of 10 minutes on and/or 10 minutes off are guaranteed to reduce lamp life.

Never touch the envelope or reflector with bare hands. I was skeptical about not touching the reflector, but Philips says you must not do it so I believe it.

Why is it always me who has to figure everything out? I nailed the cooling issue too. I guess because I always work these things out, no one else has to. Better hope I don't die.

Ready for that info Tom.
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post #18 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quantumstate View Post


I am suspicioning that 90% of us run the projector upside-down. I for one, will rotate the reflector 180º before I run it much longer. The correct burning position is with TOP, up, dammit.

Very interesting. I pulled my oldest bulb out of my drawer from a H79.

It looks like that rear shield will interfere with the rotation of the bulb. I also looked at rotating the shield and that can't happen because the air inlet will interfere with that position.

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post #19 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 08:57 AM - Thread Starter
 
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OK, so the next question is what is the purpose of that metal shield? I propose that it's to reduce damage in case of explosion. Then again, the only thing on that side of the bulb is the plenum.

That shield certainly reduces cooling efficiency. I notice there's a special vent which blows right on the contacts, which must not get above 250º, so the designer'sheart was in the right place. But the shield just retains air and allows heat to build up. (Er, doy)

I notice a temperature-sensing thermistor above the lamp receiver. (square silver can screwed to the frame) I am sure this controls the fans. Maybe bending this 90º to bring it closer to the reflector would encourage it to turn on the fan more.
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post #20 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 09:40 AM
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"OK, I was right originally, that TOP means that that side of the reflector must be on top during operation"

Did you get the info from Phillips? Could be crucial re the functioning of the bulb and wierd also. Once I had an H77 that would only work correctly straight up. Danielo or Bruno had a H77 that was cutting off or not going on and my suggestion to try it straight up fixed the problem. Makes you wonder is just turning the bulb postion would hv fixed it.

If so spinning would be a great idea as long as everything gells, no venting problems vs factory installation.

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post #21 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 10:34 AM
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So if you must run the H77 upside down and on a shelf, [open where controls are] is there anything you can do about the bulb situation? Guitarman do you do fixes for these things? I know you have worked on many of them.

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post #22 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 11:01 AM
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quantumstate is saying the projector is best run in a straight up position because that would put the word TOP on the bulb facing the direction it's meant to run at. It's all very unusual you would think the bulb could run normal at any direction.

I haven't altered any fans or cooling I'm still just doing the upgrade which is a speed up process to the Ti chip which fixes the panning issues.

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post #23 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
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"OK, I was right originally, that TOP means that that side of the reflector must be on top during operation"

Did you get the info from Phillips? Could be crucial re the functioning of the bulb and wierd also.

I have the information I gave above (and much more), because after Herculean effort and some good intel work I managed to get the lamp datasheet, as well as the SOP for assessment of the cooling system for it.

TOP means 'top'. Have no doubt. The electrodes are in a constant state of melting and redeposition, and I can see how they may have been formed to last longer with a certain orientation. This latter is only my theory though.

One thing's for certain: TOP means 'top', and we get crap performance with it on bottom. Rotate them lamps.
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post #24 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 01:24 PM
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Sorry I am having a little trouble following this, is a ceiling mounted projector (H78 in my case) already have the right orientation? Or can it vary depending on how they assembled them? I have about 1400-1500 hours on my bulb but have recently been getting the red led power down cycle. I sent an email to Optoma and did not get a reply asking specifically what the red led is signifying (what is the detection algorithm being used).
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post #25 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
 
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If the projector's feet are pointing down, the lamp is oriented correctly.
If they're pointing up, the lamp should be rotated 180º in its carrier.

The red light is a Bulb Fault. Classic failure, and you are lucky to have gotten that many hours out of it. Many of us haven't gotten more than 400-800.

If it faults all the time, you need to replace your lamp. If you're handy, buy just the lamp on EBay for ~$95. If not, buy the lamp carrier from one of the rebuilders for ~$250.

Or wait for Tom to get me the information I need, so I can upgrade these to an advanced lamp system.
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post #26 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 01:37 PM
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The word TOP on the bulb faces the top of the projector. So when you invert the projector the orientation of the bulb is not facing the way the bulb mfg meant it to be.
This is all very interesting and will take some good track record info to see how good it is. If things work for the better people should be inverting the bulbs in all these UHP lamps. At least if they ceiling mount. Credit would be do to quantumstate, nobody ever thought of this.

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post #27 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 01:38 PM
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The feet are up and I took out the lamp assy. and the glass rod still seemed to be in good shape, no malformation. I understand its a bulb fault, but what is the logic detecting that turns on the lamp fault led, an voltage fluctuation? It has to be sensing something.

Is any of the information like the lamp data sheet something you can share for those of us interested in learning more?
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post #28 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 01:40 PM
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Wouldn't it be nice if someone from Philips could look into this and share what they know instead of users having to dig out the info?
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post #29 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 03:16 PM
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If you are placing the project on a table or shelf, mak sure you are extending the legs to its max to ensure best airflow. Also make sure you as much space as possible behind the projector.
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post #30 of 90 Old 06-05-2007, 05:29 PM
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I'm on my third bulb for my H79. My last bulb developed a bubble in the back. It only lasted about 800 hours. FIrst bulb lasted about 1200 or so... SJ
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