Mitsubishi HC6000 - Page 7 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #181 of 655 Old 12-07-2007, 10:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
starscomeout's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 1,125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullybeef View Post

Also wondering where i could order a Stewart Studiotek 130

AVS quoted me the best price I have ever seen for a Stewart Studiotek 130.

Don
starscomeout is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #182 of 655 Old 12-08-2007, 02:19 AM
Member
 
daron73m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Phoenix ,Az
Posts: 125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by starscomeout View Post

AVS quoted me the best price I have ever seen for a Stewart Studiotek 130.

Don

found an audio store out of utah online that advertised on ebay that sells all stewerts for 25% MSRP I dont know how they do it but I got my 114" g3fh for 2100. Everywhere else was 2700. Delivered to door in 2 weeks.
daron73m is offline  
post #183 of 655 Old 12-08-2007, 09:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
starscomeout's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 1,125
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by daron73m View Post

found an audio store out of utah online that advertised on ebay that sells all stewerts for 25% MSRP I dont know how they do it but I got my 114" g3fh for 2100. Everywhere else was 2700. Delivered to door in 2 weeks.

I think you would have been very surprised at the AVS price.

Don
starscomeout is offline  
post #184 of 655 Old 12-08-2007, 11:38 PM
Member
 
Bullybeef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 29
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Awesome!!!! Thanks for the tip guys......I'll make the phone call this week for the quote for both the hc6000 and studiotek 130. Can't wait for the set up esp. for the holidays. I wish they have the white hc6000 available to match the ceiling, but i just can't wait till feb.
Bullybeef is offline  
post #185 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 08:12 AM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just installed this little gem in my demo room. It was actually the second unit I have gotten from Mits. The first one was a real dud. I thought about posting on here but decided to not pass judgement until they got me a new unit. Boy I am glad I did. The new unit is much brighter has much better gamma/grayscale tracking and just plain looks better. Anyway, I will be very interested in seeing Ekkehart's review and how it compares to my findings. I am an experienced calibrator and have worked closely with BenQ in helping develop some of their firmware updates for their DLPs. I really never thought I would be able to confidently sell LCDs until the Panny 1000 and now this Mits. I really liked the Panny and the Mits has replaced it in this demo room. I looked at the Panny 2000 but decided to go this way instead. The Panny does have a color management system, which in my book, is the Mits's biggest downfall. But other than that, the Mits beats the new Panny in every area IMO (brightness, contrast, sharpness, noise level, scaling, etc). So you get to live with a bit overblown green and yellow. All other colors are very very close to the HDTV 709 standards if not right on. Anyway, after a quick calibration, I was able to get my unit to track D6500K from 30-90IRE at a DE less than .05. That is amazing results. Gamma is very agressive in the lower IREs. I had to increase gamma on the low end to +3 and achieved a gamma of 2.36 in Cinema mode. Do not use Auto here as it really blows out the image. I think this was the main issue in the German shootout from pics I saw. These guys obviously did not have their unit calibrated properly. Ultimately I measured On/Off contrast (at the lense) at nearly 7000:1. The bulb has about 10 hours on it and I will go back and readjust everything again at 100. I like to do early calibrations just to check on the unit's performance and also I can't have a potential customer looking at a unit not performing at its best. Another amazing contrast fact is I measures ANSI at over 400:1. This number is usually lower for me. I have calibrated some of the same units Greg Rogers has and I ususally come in below of his numbers due to my restrictions on equipment and room variables. This really excites me because we are getting into DLP territory here. This also proves what I have been preaching for a long time. Panels are not the ultimate reason for good contrast. Optics, irises and implementation mean more in this case. How do you think Sharp and Marantz achieve so much better ANSI with the same chip that Optoma and others are using. Mits's use of the "Ultra" tweaks pay real world benefits and do a much better job than if say they had just dropped the D7 panels into the old HC5000 chasis. Anyway, the higher ANSI really shows itself in the image of the PJ. Finally, I need to comment on the HQV prosessing. I am very impressed. I have the DVDO products and the image I am seeing and comparing it at or near the same level. SD scaling and deinterlacing is as good as I have seen from a PJ without a scaler. HD is outstanding as well. Noise is very low and the only thing it could use is some mosquito noise control and MPEG artifact softening in the controls. I know the Reon has them but Mits chose not to offer the consumer the option to work with them. Ultimately I am impressed beyond what I thought I would be. I know many are waiting on the Epson and I will have a chance to get one in if i chose. I will be going to an Epson demo in the new year put on by one of my suppliers. I would expect the Epson to be a very good PJ as well but ultimately I am willing to bet it will not be "better" than the Mits. The "ultra" tweaks are going to keep this unit ahead of the pack IMO.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #186 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 09:35 AM
AVS Special Member
 
FremontRich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,806
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

I just installed this little gem in my demo room. It was actually the second unit I have gotten from Mits. The first one was a real dud. I thought about posting on here but decided to not pass judgement until they got me a new unit. Boy I am glad I did. The new unit is much brighter has much better gamma/grayscale tracking and just plain looks better. Anyway, I will be very interested in seeing Ekkehart's review and how it compares to my findings. I am an experienced calibrator and have worked closely with BenQ in helping develop some of their firmware updates for their DLPs. I really never thought I would be able to confidently sell LCDs until the Panny 1000 and now this Mits. I really liked the Panny and the Mits has replaced it in this demo room. I looked at the Panny 2000 but decided to go this way instead. The Panny does have a color management system, which in my book, is the Mits's biggest downfall. But other than that, the Mits beats the new Panny in every area IMO (brightness, contrast, sharpness, noise level, scaling, etc). So you get to live with a bit overblown green and yellow. All other colors are very very close to the HDTV 709 standards if not right on. Anyway, after a quick calibration, I was able to get my unit to track D6500K from 30-90IRE at a DE less than .05. That is amazing results. Gamma is very agressive in the lower IREs. I had to increase gamma on the low end to +3 and achieved a gamma of 2.36 in Cinema mode. Do not use Auto here as it really blows out the image. I think this was the main issue in the German shootout from pics I saw. These guys obviously did not have their unit calibrated properly. Ultimately I measured On/Off contrast (at the lense) at nearly 7000:1. The bulb has about 10 hours on it and I will go back and readjust everything again at 100. I like to do early calibrations just to check on the unit's performance and also I can't have a potential customer looking at a unit not performing at its best. Another amazing contrast fact is I measures ANSI at over 400:1. This number is usually lower for me. I have calibrated some of the same units Greg Rogers has and I ususally come in below of his numbers due to my restrictions on equipment and room variables. This really excites me because we are getting into DLP territory here. This also proves what I have been preaching for a long time. Panels are not the ultimate reason for good contrast. Optics, irises and implementation mean more in this case. How do you think Sharp and Marantz achieve so much better ANSI with the same chip that Optoma and others are using. Mits's use of the "Ultra" tweaks pay real world benefits and do a much better job than if say they had just dropped the D7 panels into the old HC5000 chasis. Anyway, the higher ANSI really shows itself in the image of the PJ. Finally, I need to comment on the HQV prosessing. I am very impressed. I have the DVDO products and the image I am seeing and comparing it at or near the same level. SD scaling and deinterlacing is as good as I have seen from a PJ without a scaler. HD is outstanding as well. Noise is very low and the only thing it could use is some mosquito noise control and MPEG artifact softening in the controls. I know the Reon has them but Mits chose not to offer the consumer the option to work with them. Ultimately I am impressed beyond what I thought I would be. I know many are waiting on the Epson and I will have a chance to get one in if i chose. I will be going to an Epson demo in the new year put on by one of my suppliers. I would expect the Epson to be a very good PJ as well but ultimately I am willing to bet it will not be "better" than the Mits. The "ultra" tweaks are going to keep this unit ahead of the pack IMO.


Eric, when you wrote "Do not use Auto here as it really blows out the image." did you mean auto iris?
FremontRich is offline  
post #187 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 09:59 AM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Auto Gamma. Auto Iris is fine.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #188 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 10:21 AM
Member
 
Jr Flyers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just purchased a HC 6000 and going to buy a blue ray or HD DVD. Just curious as I need a 25 foot cable as whether I need to spend $300 from Ultralink or Monster or will the HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated) for $42 from Monoprice work just as good. Thanks
Jr Flyers is offline  
post #189 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 10:23 AM
AVS Special Member
 
FremontRich's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,806
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

Auto Gamma. Auto Iris is fine.

Okay, thanks... but I'm a little dumb on calibration techniques. I presume auto gamma means pre-set gammas in the menu? So you recommend setting the gamma/s manually with test instrument/s then? I'm really interested in the HC6000 as the reviews seem to indicate it's quite an improvement over the HC5000.
FremontRich is offline  
post #190 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 11:45 AM
yvv
Newbie
 
yvv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Eric,Did you see any convergence or colour uniformity issues? I'm choosing between this one and the Black Pearl and each one has it's own positive sides. Was the black level and shade detail really good from a CRT guy point of view? Having had a CRT PJ for 8 years I'm still sceptical about this side of digital projectors. But then my room is a living room with white ceiling. Nevertheless I wouldn't like grey bars while watching a Cinemascope movie? What is your opinion on the subject?
yvv is offline  
post #191 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 04:59 PM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by FremontRich View Post

Okay, thanks... but I'm a little dumb on calibration techniques. I presume auto gamma means pre-set gammas in the menu? So you recommend setting the gamma/s manually with test instrument/s then? I'm really interested in the HC6000 as the reviews seem to indicate it's quite an improvement over the HC5000.


No problem. Set the unit to Cinema Gamma. This will yield a gamma around 2.5 which is the standard for digital cinema. It is a bit dark for my tastes in the lower IREs (or dark scenes). I did set up a custom gamma in User 1 using the Cinema mode and ended up with Low at +3. This brought gamma up to 2.35 and made the darker scenes have more shadow detail.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #192 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 05:04 PM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by yvv View Post

Eric,Did you see any convergence or colour uniformity issues? I'm choosing between this one and the Black Pearl and each one has it's own positive sides. Was the black level and shade detail really good from a CRT guy point of view? Having had a CRT PJ for 8 years I'm still sceptical about this side of digital projectors. But then my room is a living room with white ceiling. Nevertheless I wouldn't like grey bars while watching a Cinemascope movie? What is your opinion on the subject?


I am a Sony dealer and my main gripe about the orignal Pearl was the lense was basically crap. It was their major cost cutting area. The new Black Pearl is a different animal though. I do not know if they improved the lense but they did something to help with convergence and sharpness. The Mits 5000 and 6000 always have had the best lense to date on a LCD PJ. My unit is as good as I have ever seen in a 3 panel device (JVC, Sony, Panny, etc). My first unit was not as good as this one but still better than most Pannys I have seen. As for the cinemascope bars, you are not going to find any digital close to your CRT. The Mits still has grayish bars although they are better than any LCD I have seen. Not as good as the JVC or Sony but very very close.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #193 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 05:11 PM
Senior Member
 
70MM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

No problem. Set the unit to Cinema Gamma. This will yield a gamma around 2.5 which is the standard for digital cinema. It is a bit dark for my tastes in the lower IREs (or dark scenes). I did set up a custom gamma in User 1 using the Cinema mode and ended up with Low at +3. This brought gamma up to 2.35 and made the darker scenes have more shadow detail.

I had to set the Input to Enhanced to get the lower IREs in. Do you have yours on Normal? Can you expalin further how to get the lower IRE's in when its set to Normal, I tried everything but couldnt! Using PS3, Oppo DV-980HD
70MM is offline  
post #194 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 07:24 PM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 70MM View Post

I had to set the Input to Enhanced to get the lower IREs in. Do you have yours on Normal? Can you expalin further how to get the lower IRE's in when its set to Normal, I tried everything but couldnt! Using PS3, Oppo DV-980HD

Not sure what you mean here. There is a "setup" for video levels. I turned that to off. I did not see an "Enhanced" or "Normal" in the menu. I will check again when I get a chance. I am running only HDMI, BTW.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #195 of 655 Old 12-09-2007, 07:59 PM
Senior Member
 
70MM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

Not sure what you mean here. There is a "setup" for video levels. I turned that to off. I did not see an "Enhanced" or "Normal" in the menu. I will check again when I get a chance. I am running only HDMI, BTW.

Im using HDMI, Input settings is in the advanced settings.
70MM is offline  
post #196 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 02:08 AM
yvv
Newbie
 
yvv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

As for the cinemascope bars, you are not going to find any digital close to your CRT. The Mits still has grayish bars although they are better than any LCD I have seen. Not as good as the JVC or Sony but very very close.

Thanks Eric, excellent answer. Seems to me The VW60 is a better option to replace my G70. I hate those greyish bars on my plasma TV. I don't expect real black from any digital projector but the blacker the better. I've seen the RS-1 and though the blacks were acceptable the colour accuracy wasn't good at all.
yvv is offline  
post #197 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 05:25 AM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by yvv View Post

Thanks Eric, excellent answer. Seems to me The VW60 is a better option to replace my G70. I hate those greyish bars on my plasma TV. I don't expect real black from any digital projector but the blacker the better. I've seen the RS-1 and though the blacks were acceptable the colour accuracy wasn't good at all.


Bear in mind that all of these PJs with the irises are going to have varying levels of black on your letterboxing depending on scene brightness. The Sony and Mits both are pretty black in the darker scenes. The RS-1 is going to be the best in this area though. Neither the Sony or the JVC can match the Mits on ANSI contrast that I measured. It is at the level of the 2nd generation DC2 chip DLPs.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #198 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 08:35 AM
Senior Member
 
gshipley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 276
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr Flyers View Post

Just purchased a HC 6000 and going to buy a blue ray or HD DVD. Just curious as I need a 25 foot cable as whether I need to spend $300 from Ultralink or Monster or will the HDMI 1.3a Category 2 Certified CL2 Rated (In-Wall Installation) Cable (22AWG) - 25ft (Gold Plated) for $42 from Monoprice work just as good. Thanks

I would go with bluejeans cable.... but you do not need monster.

Follw.IT HTPC Social Integration
http://www.follw.it
gshipley is offline  
post #199 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 09:02 AM
yvv
Newbie
 
yvv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: London, UK
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

Bear in mind that all of these PJs with the irises are going to have varying levels of black on your letterboxing depending on scene brightness. The Sony and Mits both are pretty black in the darker scenes. The RS-1 is going to be the best in this area though. Neither the Sony or the JVC can match the Mits on ANSI contrast that I measured. It is at the level of the 2nd generation DC2 chip DLPs.

After all it's posible to mask the bars which quite eliminates the problem. I actually missed you point about the higher ANSI contrast in the original post. That's very important. The higher ANSI point should in theory translate into the more 3D look, more pop, which is very unusual for LCD/LCOS projectors, they look more flat and dull in compare with CRT and DLP. I'm very RB sensitive so DLP is not an option. So you are saying I wouldn't loose much in the blacks department if I choose the Mits and I will have better sharpness, ANSI, no bright corners, no misconvergence,better scaling?
And it's quiter and smaller in size which is very important in a living room. What are the downsides? Dust blobs? The HC5000 was prone to them but Mitsubishi made a double filter for the HC6000 which should prevent dust getting inside.
The only thing that the VW60 does better seems to be on/off contrast. Am I missing something here?
yvv is offline  
post #200 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 09:05 AM
Member
 
SPLawren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

Bear in mind that all of these PJs with the irises are going to have varying levels of black on your letterboxing depending on scene brightness. The Sony and Mits both are pretty black in the darker scenes. The RS-1 is going to be the best in this area though. Neither the Sony or the JVC can match the Mits on ANSI contrast that I measured. It is at the level of the 2nd generation DC2 chip DLPs.

Eric,

Thanks for that info - two questions:

1) For the gamma, you used "cinema" as the reference and did the +3 on the low curve for all three RGB together, or did you have different settings for each color? Did you adjust the mid or high curves at all?

2) Did you do any other adjustments to contrast, brightness, color, tint, color temp, etc.? Do you feel like posting all of your settings?

I'm doing my own calibration and it always helps to have more info to compare.

Thanks in advance.
SPLawren is offline  
post #201 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 03:16 PM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by yvv View Post

After all it's posible to mask the bars which quite eliminates the problem. I actually missed you point about the higher ANSI contrast in the original post. That's very important. The higher ANSI point should in theory translate into the more 3D look, more pop, which is very unusual for LCD/LCOS projectors, they look more flat and dull in compare with CRT and DLP. I'm very RB sensitive so DLP is not an option. So you are saying I wouldn't loose much in the blacks department if I choose the Mits and I will have better sharpness, ANSI, no bright corners, no misconvergence,better scaling?
And it's quiter and smaller in size which is very important in a living room. What are the downsides? Dust blobs? The HC5000 was prone to them but Mitsubishi made a double filter for the HC6000 which should prevent dust getting inside.
The only thing that the VW60 does better seems to be on/off contrast. Am I missing something here?

I do not want you to misinterpret. I still think the 60 is a better overall PJ. ANSI is not going to be as quite as good on the 60. No bright corners. Dust should not be an issue on the new unit with a new external filter and an added internal filter. That being said, the 60 is goind to have 3-4 times the On/Off. When factoring that in, the ANSI starts to take more of a back seat as On/Off that high will really be noticeable. One more thing the Mits has that the Sony doesn't though is the Reon processor. This is worth alot to me. Also consider in the US the Mits is going for approximately $800 less. Also Mits just announced a $500 rebate on the 4900 so maybe we will see something on the 6000 soon to help it further.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #202 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 03:24 PM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLawren View Post

Eric,

Thanks for that info - two questions:

1) For the gamma, you used "cinema" as the reference and did the +3 on the low curve for all three RGB together, or did you have different settings for each color? Did you adjust the mid or high curves at all?

2) Did you do any other adjustments to contrast, brightness, color, tint, color temp, etc.? Do you feel like posting all of your settings?

I'm doing my own calibration and it always helps to have more info to compare.

Thanks in advance.

I am a professional calibrator and get paid for my work. I do not mind posting my settings sometimes but I really do not think the grayscale numbers will help at all. This is my second unit and the numbers were completely different than the first to reach D6500K. Also both of my sets of numbers were considerably different than the sets posted earlier in this thread. LCDs are much more picky than DLPs. I could post some settings for a BenQ W10000 and the would be very close for just about everyone. The only variable is the lamp and those are usually close. The color wheel and chips are really not factors. With LCDs you have variances from chip to chip x 3 and also variables in the lamp.

With all that said:

Contrast -1
Brightness +4
Color -2
Tint 0
Shaprnesss 0
Auto Iris 1
Gamma (All Colors) 0, 0, +3
Setup Off


Use these with the posted numbers from earlier in the thread and it will get you somewhere between 6500-6800. You will be happy.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #203 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 04:29 PM
Member
 
SPLawren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by awtryau89 View Post

I am a professional calibrator and get paid for my work. I do not mind posting my settings sometimes but I really do not think the grayscale numbers will help at all. This is my second unit and the numbers were completely different than the first to reach D6500K. Also both of my sets of numbers were considerably different than the sets posted earlier in this thread. LCDs are much more picky than DLPs. I could post some settings for a BenQ W10000 and the would be very close for just about everyone. The only variable is the lamp and those are usually close. The color wheel and chips are really not factors. With LCDs you have variances from chip to chip x 3 and also variables in the lamp.

With all that said:

Contrast -1
Brightness +4
Color -2
Tint 0
Shaprnesss 0
Auto Iris 1
Gamma (All Colors) 0, 0, +3
Setup Off


Use these with the posted numbers from earlier in the thread and it will get you somewhere between 6500-6800. You will be happy.

Eric,

Totally understand - about "getting paid" and the variance in calibrations. Thanks for the numbers that you gave. I am discovering small, but important differences myself in doing my calibration (particularly in reigning in "red" in the REC709 space and getting gamma better at low IRE), so I was trying to see if and how variance between units was affecting my results. This is very helpful.
SPLawren is offline  
post #204 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 05:48 PM
Advanced Member
 
awtryau89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Hoschton, GA
Posts: 928
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLawren View Post

Eric,

Totally understand - about "getting paid" and the variance in calibrations. Thanks for the numbers that you gave. I am discovering small, but important differences myself in doing my calibration (particularly in reigning in "red" in the REC709 space and getting gamma better at low IRE), so I was trying to see if and how variance between units was affecting my results. This is very helpful.


Not a problem at all. I like to help out and will do so if I can. Of course, I would rather you ship me your PJ and a check and I will get it perfect. A couple of things: red is almost spot on the 709 triangle with color at -2. It also helps megenta a great deal in the secondaries. As for grayscale, this PJ has a good deal of red output. I could not understand how Mits was getting it without a compensating filter until I read Ekkehart's review. I highly recommend it. What they did by switching the Red and Blue on the prism is so simple I cannot believe no other manufacturer has done it before.

Eric Awtry
Dream Theater Consulting
awtryau89 is offline  
post #205 of 655 Old 12-10-2007, 07:10 PM
Member
 
SPLawren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Yeah, pretty smart to reverse the order and proximity of red and blue the light path - now I need to tame the red beast (sort of)! What "it" do you recommend - the filter or the light path change? (I assume you don't mean a filter for the HC6000, though I don't understand the soure and reason for the one Ekkehart quashed in the review, to fix the greens?). Speaking of which, weren't we going go see a new HC6000 review today or sometime soon from Cine4Home?
SPLawren is offline  
post #206 of 655 Old 12-11-2007, 12:59 AM
Senior Member
 
heja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 317
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLawren View Post

Yeah, pretty smart to reverse the order and proximity of red and blue the light path - now I need to tame the red beast (sort of)! What "it" do you recommend - the filter or the light path change? (I assume you don't mean a filter for the HC6000, though I don't understand the soure and reason for the one Ekkehart quashed in the review, to fix the greens?). Speaking of which, weren't we going go see a new HC6000 review today or sometime soon from Cine4Home?

Cine4home has the review up now:

http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projek...HC6000Test.htm
heja is offline  
post #207 of 655 Old 12-11-2007, 06:15 AM
Advanced Member
 
Eternal_Sunshine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 502
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
c4h liked the HC6000 a lot, just one small problem: occasional 24p judder!

HC6000 owners:
Do you have problems with 24p judder? Or is everything fine?

It would be very helpful if you could also say which source you use (which BR/HD player). c4h sadly only mentions the problem but not which source(s) they used...

FWIW, german "audiovision" magazine also had 24p problems, source was a Toshiba XE-1.
Eternal_Sunshine is offline  
post #208 of 655 Old 12-11-2007, 07:36 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Steve Dodds's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 1999
Location: San Francisco, now Australia
Posts: 2,883
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
I dunno. I think after that review I'd be crossing the HC6000 off my list. The native contrast is pretty low, and the lumens nothing special either.
Steve Dodds is offline  
post #209 of 655 Old 12-11-2007, 09:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Cine4Home's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,084
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternal_Sunshine View Post

c4h liked the HC6000 a lot, just one small problem: occasional 24p judder!

HC6000 owners:
Do you have problems with 24p judder? Or is everything fine?

It would be very helpful if you could also say which source you use (which BR/HD player). c4h sadly only mentions the problem but not which source(s) they used...

FWIW, german "audiovision" magazine also had 24p problems, source was a Toshiba XE-1.


Sony BDP-S1 / S300 which is the same as the Pioneer LX70, Toshiba XE1...
About the occasional judder: This happens maybe once / Minute and can only be seen if there is a steady movement going on. A good movie to test this is for example Ultraviolet as this movie has pans all the time.... It is like one frame is missing once in a while...

It is not a huge issue as many people actually dont see it, but a perfectionist might see it once in a while.

Regards,
Ekkehart
Cine4Home is offline  
post #210 of 655 Old 12-11-2007, 09:59 AM
Newbie
 
jksparky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Mits Owners

I've been reading some of the reviews and have a strong pull to purchasing this projector however im worried about the brightness for me setup.

I putting the projector in a large multi-purpose room in the basement - which i can control light levels in. The projector needs to throw 17.5 feet (from front of lens) to hit my 106" screen. I can only really move the projector forward a foot or so due to cable and plug placements. I believe that the 17.5 feet is the maximum the projector will allow according to the specs. Do you think this will be okay or should i look at something else like a panny? I.E will it be bright enough? Anybody else have the same setup?

Thanks for your guidance
jksparky is offline  
Reply Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off