Viewsonic Pro8100 1080p Projector - Page 285 - AVS Forum
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post #8521 of 9210 Old 02-26-2012, 07:55 PM
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Horizontal shift is 0. I will try to go full direction one way and then see if it will move down anymore.
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post #8522 of 9210 Old 02-27-2012, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Rider View Post

smithsonga, try turning the auto-iris to off and see if the flickering goes away. Have you done the firmware update and switched the iris to mode 3?

Where in ATL are you located BTW? If you're local enough to me (Alpharetta), and so inclined, I'll offer up calibration services for beer/food I seldom turn down the opportunity to talk Home Theaters with other enthusiasts, and it's the least I can offer for another local Pro8100 owner.

woo! I live in Cumming...Windermere up at exit 14. PM me or email/# and I will certainly take you up on that offer! Much appreciated.

I have had this projector for some time, so I am trying to remember what I have done. I definitely did the firmware update and I have it on a timer so it shuts down for a few hours each night. I dont recall if the iris is mode 3.

thx

Jim
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post #8523 of 9210 Old 02-27-2012, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by smithsonga View Post

woo! I live in Cumming...Windermere up at exit 14. PM me or email/# and I will certainly take you up on that offer! Much appreciated.

I have had this projector for some time, so I am trying to remember what I have done. I definitely did the firmware update and I have it on a timer so it shuts down for a few hours each night. I dont recall if the iris is mode 3.

thx

Wow, you are close indeed! Just sent you a PM with my contact info/availability.

You can check the Iris mode by doing the following:

Access the Iris Menu by inputting the following commands on your remote: up-down-left-right-down-up-down-up-menu
Select Setting: 3 using left right arrows
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post #8524 of 9210 Old 02-27-2012, 08:32 PM
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Dark Rider, I tried the " move lens shift all the way in other direction" and then back again, but it did not help. It did move the image completely on the ceiling though! It's not a big problem, I have adjusted the mount downward two inches and that fixed the keystoning. A black velvet border for the screen and I will be finished withe the install! I do have one other question if you think you might have an answer for me: I have a Dish Network satellite box that I use to watch TV. It has options to send 480p,720P or 1080i to the projector. I keep reading that the Pro8100 has a excellent Reon upscaling processor. If that is the case, what should I have the Dish box set output to? I think the model# of the box is Vip612. Thanks again for your help.
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post #8525 of 9210 Old 02-28-2012, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Dark Rider, I tried the " move lens shift all the way in other direction" and then back again, but it did not help. It did move the image completely on the ceiling though! It's not a big problem, I have adjusted the mount downward two inches and that fixed the keystoning. A black velvet border for the screen and I will be finished withe the install! I do have one other question if you think you might have an answer for me: I have a Dish Network satellite box that I use to watch TV. It has options to send 480p,720P or 1080i to the projector. I keep reading that the Pro8100 has a excellent Reon upscaling processor. If that is the case, what should I have the Dish box set output to? I think the model# of the box is Vip612. Thanks again for your help.

My Dish receiver (722K) is set to 1080i and works great with my Pro8100. Your 612 should perform the same.

Yer welcome.....

Ed
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post #8526 of 9210 Old 02-28-2012, 12:34 PM
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If there is an option to turn off scaling/upconversion and pass only the native resolution of the souce, then that's what I'd choose. However, if that'ts not an option and you cannot vary based on source resolution, then Ed's recommendation is the way to go.
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post #8527 of 9210 Old 02-28-2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Dark Rider, I tried the " move lens shift all the way in other direction" and then back again, but it did not help. It did move the image completely on the ceiling though! It's not a big problem, I have adjusted the mount downward two inches and that fixed the keystoning. A black velvet border for the screen and I will be finished withe the install! I do have one other question if you think you might have an answer for me: I have a Dish Network satellite box that I use to watch TV. It has options to send 480p,720P or 1080i to the projector. I keep reading that the Pro8100 has a excellent Reon upscaling processor. If that is the case, what should I have the Dish box set output to? I think the model# of the box is Vip612. Thanks again for your help.

According to the User's Manual, you should be able to adjust the vertical shift +/- 75% of the vertical image and horizontal by +/- 5% of the horizontal image.

Hope you enjoy the PJ.

In space, no one can hear you scream . . .
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post #8528 of 9210 Old 02-28-2012, 08:34 PM
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Shark, I can shift the image at least 75% vertically, but not in the direction I needed to go. There may be a problem that the lens is not centered in the travel, but it was easily fixed by moving the mount down two inches. The projector is displaying such a great image I am not going to complain about a small mounting inconvenience. I don't think my satellite box has a "Native" setting for the display output. I will try the 1080i setting, I think I may have it at 720p. My blu-ray player though has an option to up-scale regular DVD's I may turn that off and let the projector do the upscaling.
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post #8529 of 9210 Old 02-28-2012, 10:11 PM
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Since it's +/- 75%, then you should be able to 1.5 times the vertical total. But sounds like you've got it licked now.

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post #8530 of 9210 Old 02-29-2012, 01:07 PM
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Now that I have my exact image size figured out (95") what can I do to dim the image a little. On some movies, sat programming, ect, it seems the image is a little too bright. Sometimes on a scene with snow or a white background, it is kind of uncomfortable. Do I just move the brightness setting down, or will that mess up most of the other values that I copied from Ranger's settings? The brightness does not need to be reduced much, just a little. I guess I would also like to keep one bright user setting, since I don't like to watch sports with my buddies in a completely dark room. They are too clumsy and spill stuff if they can't see! What would I do? Just copy the settings again, but put them in "User2" spot? Now I am not sure where the settings that I am using presently are stored, maybe in the default spot if there is one?
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post #8531 of 9210 Old 02-29-2012, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Now that I have my exact image size figured out (95") what can I do to dim the image a little. On some movies, sat programming, ect, it seems the image is a little too bright. Sometimes on a scene with snow or a white background, it is kind of uncomfortable. Do I just move the brightness setting down, or will that mess up most of the other values that I copied from Ranger's settings? The brightness does not need to be reduced much, just a little. I guess I would also like to keep one bright user setting, since I don't like to watch sports with my buddies in a completely dark room. They are too clumsy and spill stuff if they can't see! What would I do? Just copy the settings again, but put them in "User2" spot? Now I am not sure where the settings that I am using presently are stored, maybe in the default spot if there is one?

After about 100 hours, your lamp will dim ..

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post #8532 of 9210 Old 02-29-2012, 01:24 PM
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Hey DR, are the 2200 hour calibration numbers the ones you gave me/us not too long ago?
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post #8533 of 9210 Old 03-01-2012, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 257roberts View Post

Now that I have my exact image size figured out (95") what can I do to dim the image a little. On some movies, sat programming, ect, it seems the image is a little too bright. Sometimes on a scene with snow or a white background, it is kind of uncomfortable. Do I just move the brightness setting down, or will that mess up most of the other values that I copied from Ranger's settings? The brightness does not need to be reduced much, just a little. I guess I would also like to keep one bright user setting, since I don't like to watch sports with my buddies in a completely dark room. They are too clumsy and spill stuff if they can't see! What would I do? Just copy the settings again, but put them in "User2" spot? Now I am not sure where the settings that I am using presently are stored, maybe in the default spot if there is one?

I know it seems counterintuitive, but brightness actually controls you black level, and contrast controls your brightest scenes. You want to bump contrast down a few points, which shouldn't negatively effect the brightness overall, other than saving your retinas in those eye-seering scenes like snow or ice. If you want to save a brighter mode, switch over to vivid for picture mode and make adjustments to the basic settings. Since the calibration is not changing, everything else should remain intact.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjimmyjones85 View Post

Hey DR, are the 2200 hour calibration numbers the ones you gave me/us not too long ago?

Most likely. The biggest switch was the calibration to the preset 2.4 gamma point (closer to 2.3 measured), which improves contrast and black level about as far as it can go without sacrificing brightness. The settings can be found here: 2200 hour settings and I consider them to be my best to date. I likely will get a crack at smithsonga's unit in the near future, so if he has a newer build date (more similar to ranger's unit), I will try and get similar results using the same approach as I did to my 2200 settings and post those up as well. Ranger's settings proved to be better for newer build dates, since I have a first run Pro8100 that varied from the newer builds based on the ADC calibration. The bottom line is that unless you're willing to put a meter on it, or pay someone else too, then you're going to have to go by eye and determine what looks best for your environment.
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post #8534 of 9210 Old 03-01-2012, 01:43 PM
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Thanks, Dark Rider, I will try the contrast setting and also try Vivid for sports programming. MrDragon, I might wait to try these until my lamp has 100 hours. It is getting close, we have been watching the projector quite a bit. Movies in Blu-ray are like watching them for the first time again.
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post #8535 of 9210 Old 03-02-2012, 07:03 PM
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Are you using Eco mode for the lamp? That will be a little dimmer.

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post #8536 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 08:10 AM
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Never used one of these lamps, but $145 is a good deal..says "OEM Lamp with generic housing"....may just pick one of these up, as the lamp I am using has ~ 10K on it, and the old backup has > 5K on it.

http://www.apexlamps.com/index.php?m...FUMRNAodsi6X_g

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post #8537 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 08:16 AM
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"Generic" lamp available from MWave for 116.96.

As I have stated on here, that lamp is for multiple pjs, including the Mitsubishis.

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch...Number=RLC-032

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post #8538 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 08:56 AM
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BTW, the lamp I am using now came in a plain white box(generic) with a Viewsonic sticker on it that said "Projector replacement Lamp for Pro8100- RLC-032", I got it from Provantage and it cost me $312.
As I've stated, it has ~ 10K hrs on it.
Not sure I'm going to jump on one of those good deals on bulbs, but I am seriously considering it considering the unbelievably cheap prices.

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post #8539 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 02:10 PM
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Hopefully those that buy a bargain non-OEM bulb and have it blow early won't be too embarrassed to let us know.

In space, no one can hear you scream . . .
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post #8540 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz View Post

BTW, the lamp I am using now came in a plain white box(generic) with a Viewsonic sticker on it that said "Projector replacement Lamp for Pro8100- RLC-032", I got it from Provantage and it cost me $312.
As I've stated, it has ~ 10K hrs on it.
Not sure I'm going to jump on one of those good deals on bulbs, but I am seriously considering it considering the unbelievably cheap prices.

How much those pro-advantage ones going for now?
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post #8541 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 10:56 PM
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Looks like about this.

Not much cheaper.

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post #8542 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 10:57 PM
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How much those pro-advantage ones going for now?

Just looked- $306

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post #8543 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 73shark View Post

Hopefully those that buy a bargain non-OEM bulb and have it blow early won't be too embarrassed to let us know.

The one from Apex says "OEM bulb with generic housing" The Mwave one just says Generic with "Pureglass" lamp

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post #8544 of 9210 Old 03-04-2012, 11:05 PM
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There was a post earlier re: OEM bulbs and how deceptive the write-up could be and make you thing you were getting a true "OEM" bulb when in fact you weren't. So I guess if it's much under $300, then it probably isn't a true OEM bulb. It's the old you get what you pay for. I've learned that lesson many times in life.

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post #8545 of 9210 Old 03-06-2012, 07:35 AM
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I see conflicting reports as to the max lumens of this model. Can anyone tell me if it can actually hit 1300 lumens? Thanks!
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post #8546 of 9210 Old 03-06-2012, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
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I see conflicting reports as to the max lumens of this model. Can anyone tell me if it can actually hit 1300 lumens? Thanks!

from Projector Centrals Review:

High lumen output. The Pro8100 is rated for 1000 ANSI lumens. After we adjusted color temperature, our test sample measured 750 lumens in high lamp mode. That's a very bright color-balanced picture for a projector rated at 1000 lumens. It is plenty of power for a 100" screen in moderate ambient light, or a much larger screen in a dark viewing room. Low lamp mode brings output down to 591 lumens, a 21% reduction. As always, these numbers are calculated using the widest angle (brightest) setting on the zoom lens. Using the Pro8100's 1.6:1 zoom lens in its maximum telephoto setting reduces lumen output a further 18% which is not much compared to most zoom lenses of this length which can cut light by twice this much. So the Pro8100 could be a good choice for installations that require more lumen output than you get from many 1080p projectors.

In a dark room with a smaller screen, 750 lumens is too much light, and it can cause eyestrain and headaches after extended viewing. However, the Pro8100's other image modes can reduce output to roughly 350 lumens, which is arguably perfect for a 100" diagonal screen without any ambient light present.

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post #8547 of 9210 Old 03-06-2012, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgkdragn View Post

from Projector Centrals Review:

High lumen output. The Pro8100 is rated for 1000 ANSI lumens. After we adjusted color temperature, our test sample measured 750 lumens in high lamp mode. That's a very bright color-balanced picture for a projector rated at 1000 lumens. It is plenty of power for a 100" screen in moderate ambient light, or a much larger screen in a dark viewing room. Low lamp mode brings output down to 591 lumens, a 21% reduction. As always, these numbers are calculated using the widest angle (brightest) setting on the zoom lens. Using the Pro8100's 1.6:1 zoom lens in its maximum telephoto setting reduces lumen output a further 18% which is not much compared to most zoom lenses of this length which can cut light by twice this much. So the Pro8100 could be a good choice for installations that require more lumen output than you get from many 1080p projectors.

In a dark room with a smaller screen, 750 lumens is too much light, and it can cause eyestrain and headaches after extended viewing. However, the Pro8100's other image modes can reduce output to roughly 350 lumens, which is arguably perfect for a 100" diagonal screen without any ambient light present.

Yea I have read all the prof. reviews, but I have seen reports in this thread of additional ouput above 1000 lumens. Didn't know if there was any consensus on that issue.
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post #8548 of 9210 Old 03-06-2012, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimShadler View Post

Yea I have read all the prof. reviews, but I have seen reports in this thread of additional ouput above 1000 lumens. Didn't know if there was any consensus on that issue.

My unit is pretty close to the review specs ..

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post #8549 of 9210 Old 03-06-2012, 02:38 PM
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I have my screen completed (with a velvet border!) and am very happy with the whole package. I would however, like to have the projector mounted closer to my 9' ceiling, and wondering if I were to go into the "Service" menu and see what the "Image Shift Limit) would do to help me get more image offset so I can move the projector up some. My offset is now maxed-out at 10" wigh a image size of 96". I don't see anywhere in the manual that it lists the offset specifications. If it is out of specs and it can't be fixed with the service menu, I am guessing that is why it was returned to Viewsonic and why it was in the refurbished channel. Otherwise, it has no horizontal or vertical banding and the image looks fantastic.
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post #8550 of 9210 Old 03-06-2012, 08:00 PM
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I guess I still don't understand your positioning problem. I don't remember what size screen you're using. But it seems that if it's mounted close to the ceiling (at least within the 75% range), then you should be able to mount the PJ close to the ceiling.

Mine is 110" w/ the top at the ceiling and the PJ is about 12" down to get under the I-beam.

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