Originally Posted by limulus
More on camera settings: I've discovered that my manual ISO (Nikon D50 DSLR) can only be set as low as 200. However, there are lots of available settings above that. On another note, (I know this is common knowledge for better photographers) I have also discovered that I can bring out the background much more using a higher F setting.
you should use the lowest ISO that is available on your camera.
W.r.t the F number this is an important factor for two reasons1. Sharpness
Every lens has a sharpness sweetspot at a particular focal length and a particular F number. This is my basic assumption. Someone can correct me if I am wrong. I am no professional photographer. In my lens I get max natural sharpness at 35-45 mm and at F 7.1 to F 9.
So to capture a sharp screenshot - sharpnes as close to as you see use the sweetspot area.2. F number and image depth
If your PJ image has good depth and 3D quality, your camera can be tricked while shooting at low or high F numbers. Consider this.a. To shoot a object in focus and rest out of focus
Shoot at a real object in low F number opening the aperture - say a Flower with some background, the camera will focus the flower and defocusss the background creating a bokeh. Here the camera understands the perspective due to the 3D nature of real objects and can create this effect with the low F number. Don't use this for screenshots
if your PJ offers a 3D image as it may change the detail you see all around the screen. I noticed this problem of the camera being tricked at low F number after looking at some of my old shots and since then always shoot at F7.1 or F8.
Examplea. To shoot a specific object in focus and rest in the frame also in focus
. This is what we need to do in case of screenshots. To capture exactly what is on screen / wall.
Shoot at a real object in high F number closing the aperture say a Flower with some background, the camera will focus the flower and the background showing all detail you can see in real. Remember this is real what you see. Bokeh is not real when looking from a distance.
So when shooting screenshots use a higher F number to bring all objects in your projected image as you see. if the projected image itself has bokeh, you will see as it is and the camera won't add any further.Testing Depth of Image
Now the interesting part, How good 3D effect your PJ image produces? to test your projected image's depth of 3D effect you can use a lower F number to see if the camera can be tricked. For this you must frame your shot covering the entire image
and no adjacent places.
If your PJ produces a 3D like image with lot of depth, the camera may think that as a 3D in real and not just a 2D projected image and will create a bokeh around the primary object in focus. If your projected image is flat and depthless you won't see any bokeh produced or the effect will be much less. This is fun.
For more reading you can use this - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F_number
The images are taken from there.
They are looking really nice specially the shadow details. If you can keep the EXIF info on your images, I can have a look and comment. But your images are looking great anyway