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Old 03-17-2009, 09:05 PM
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Forgive the pq, due to non calibration



















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Old 03-17-2009, 10:08 PM
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the PQ of what?
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Old 03-17-2009, 10:28 PM
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You guys have really posted some nice shots. I've realized there is a lot of work that goes into taking screen photos. First, you have to find the shot you want. Then fine tune it by advancing frame by frame on pause. Then adjust the camera settings.

Matts, I think you posted your photo method that was semi-manual. I've tried to find that again, but now I can't. If you see this would you run that by me again. I've been using Anirbana's method and I know I can perfect my images if I put the time into it. But that's just it...when I do have the time, I'm too lazy

I'll post my latest attempts:

Cars BD
FPJ1/RS-2
Pioneer BDP-51FD blu-ray player
110" 1.2 gain
























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Old 03-17-2009, 10:33 PM
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The Italian Job, Standard Definition - upscaled by Pioneer BDP-51FD
FPJ1/RS-2
Pioneer BDP-51FD blu-ray player
110" 1.2 gain








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Old 03-17-2009, 11:03 PM
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Here are some more from my 6500UB.

Still calibrating...

All shots are from a wall.


Let me know what you think.

I hope you enjoy.


Casino Royal - BD


















































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Old 03-18-2009, 03:39 AM
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Ethenolas, do you work for projectorreviews.com?
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADOBHuK View Post

Ethenolas, do you work for projectorreviews.com?

I was just about to ask the same
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Old 03-18-2009, 08:02 AM
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I was thinking about using these for my interview. What do you think???
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:26 PM
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

You guys have really posted some nice shots. I've realized there is a lot of work that goes into taking screen photos. First, you have to find the shot you want. Then fine tune it by advancing frame by frame on pause. Then adjust the camera settings.

Matts, I think you posted your photo method that was semi-manual. I've tried to find that again, but now I can't. If you see this would you run that by me again. I've been using Anirbana's method and I know I can perfect my images if I put the time into it. But that's just it...when I do have the time, I'm too lazy


Basically I use the manual shutter speed option on my camera. That allows me to dial in the correct exposure for each shot. I then set the ISO to 100. From there I use the camera auto focus, which usually dials in the focus pretty well. I may sometime use the auto focus to get a general focus, and then use the manual focus just to dial it in a little tighter. From there I use a tripod and put my shutter release on a 10 second timer. That way the camera remains perfectly still when the shutter opens and closes. Even the slightest bit a movement, just your finger pressing the shutter release button, can cause a slight amount softness in the shot. Basically I use Anirbana method, all though I think she uses a remote to release the shutter, which is even better.

If you don't have a tripod handy you can set your shutter speed to its fastest setting and just hold the camera as still as you can. All though I wouldn't go much slower than 1/40th sec. without a tripod.
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matts View Post

Basically I use the manual shutter speed option on my camera. That allows me to dial in the correct exposure for each shot. I then set the ISO to 100. From there I use the camera auto focus, which usually dials in the focus pretty well. I may sometime use the auto focus to get a general focus, and then use the manual focus just to dial it in a little tighter. From there I use a tripod and put my shutter release on a 10 second timer. That way the camera remains perfectly still when the shutter opens and closes. Even the slightest bit a movement, just your finger pressing the shutter release button, can cause a slight amount softness in the shot. Basically I use Anirbana method, all though I think she uses a remote to release the shutter, which is even better.

If you don't have a tripod handy you can set your shutter speed to its fastest setting and just hold the camera as still as you can. All though I wouldn't go much slower than 1/40th sec. without a tripod.



Thanks Matts,
I actually have a very nice tripod which I have been using. I think I need to just work on my fine tuning. I've never checked the ISO setting, but based on what I remember from shooting film, I would think a higher ISO setting than 100 for dark shots would be better. I have not been using the timer. I will from now on.

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Old 03-18-2009, 04:45 PM
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matts View Post

Basically I use Anirbana method, all though I think she uses a remote to release the shutter, which is even better.

That would be a He...LOL I don't fancy myself as a she... not even in my wildest dreams...:grin:

Remote shutter is definitely useful and ISO at 100 or lower is good because you get less / no noise in image apart from what is there in picture already.
Please feel free to ask me anything on camera settings.

Some more shots..Enjoy








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Old 03-18-2009, 06:46 PM
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Matts: Thanks for posting the awesome shots with the 11-S2. It's on my short list of PJ's for my upgrade. Any chance you could post a sports shot (like NCAA or something) and maybe PS3/360 video game shot? I do a lot of gaming and sports viewing and I would love to get a preview.

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Old 03-18-2009, 06:52 PM
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More on camera settings: I've discovered that my manual ISO (Nikon D50 DSLR) can only be set as low as 200. However, there are lots of available settings above that. On another note, (I know this is common knowledge for better photographers) I have also discovered that I can bring out the background much more using a higher F setting.

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Old 03-19-2009, 02:41 AM
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Sharp XV-Z20000, PS3, Oly E420 F/5.0 @ 25mm
















Hey Anirbana can you give me your thoughts on these ?
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

More on camera settings: I've discovered that my manual ISO (Nikon D50 DSLR) can only be set as low as 200. However, there are lots of available settings above that. On another note, (I know this is common knowledge for better photographers) I have also discovered that I can bring out the background much more using a higher F setting.

Limulus,
you should use the lowest ISO that is available on your camera.
W.r.t the F number this is an important factor for two reasons

1. Sharpness
Every lens has a sharpness sweetspot at a particular focal length and a particular F number. This is my basic assumption. Someone can correct me if I am wrong. I am no professional photographer. In my lens I get max natural sharpness at 35-45 mm and at F 7.1 to F 9.
So to capture a sharp screenshot - sharpnes as close to as you see use the sweetspot area.

2. F number and image depth
If your PJ image has good depth and 3D quality, your camera can be tricked while shooting at low or high F numbers. Consider this.

a. To shoot a object in focus and rest out of focus
Shoot at a real object in low F number opening the aperture - say a Flower with some background, the camera will focus the flower and defocusss the background creating a bokeh. Here the camera understands the perspective due to the 3D nature of real objects and can create this effect with the low F number. Don't use this for screenshots if your PJ offers a 3D image as it may change the detail you see all around the screen. I noticed this problem of the camera being tricked at low F number after looking at some of my old shots and since then always shoot at F7.1 or F8.

Example


a. To shoot a specific object in focus and rest in the frame also in focus. This is what we need to do in case of screenshots. To capture exactly what is on screen / wall.

Shoot at a real object in high F number closing the aperture say a Flower with some background, the camera will focus the flower and the background showing all detail you can see in real. Remember this is real what you see. Bokeh is not real when looking from a distance.

Example


So when shooting screenshots use a higher F number to bring all objects in your projected image as you see. if the projected image itself has bokeh, you will see as it is and the camera won't add any further.

Testing Depth of Image
Now the interesting part, How good 3D effect your PJ image produces? to test your projected image's depth of 3D effect you can use a lower F number to see if the camera can be tricked. For this you must frame your shot covering the entire image and no adjacent places.

If your PJ produces a 3D like image with lot of depth, the camera may think that as a 3D in real and not just a 2D projected image and will create a bokeh around the primary object in focus. If your projected image is flat and depthless you won't see any bokeh produced or the effect will be much less. This is fun.

For more reading you can use this - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F_number The images are taken from there.


Acta7,

They are looking really nice specially the shadow details. If you can keep the EXIF info on your images, I can have a look and comment. But your images are looking great anyway
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:04 AM
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Anirbana,
Thanks for the additional info. In the photo below, I discovered that the details of the windows in the background were not so visible at lower F settings of say 7.1 or 8. I think I used a very high setting of around 20 to get this image:


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Old 03-19-2009, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anirbana View Post

Every lens has a sharpness sweetspot at a particular focal length and a particular F number

I found on photoreview this Imatest resolution / f_number of my lens:




this means that my sweetspot is f/4,5 - f/5.0, right ?


Quote:
Acta7,

They are looking really nice specially the shadow details. If you can keep the EXIF info on your images, I can have a look and comment. But your images are looking great anyway

Thanks Anirbana, I' ll do
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:51 AM
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[quote=limulus;16075629]Anirbana,
Thanks for the additional info. In the photo below, I discovered that the details of the windows in the background were not so visible at lower F settings of say 7.1 or 8. I think I used a very high setting of around 20 to get this image:

limulus
No need to guess check the pic details - f10 was used at 1 second exposure. The more you shoot the better you will get hopefully, i am a lost case though.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

Anirbana,
Thanks for the additional info. In the photo below, I discovered that the details of the windows in the background were not so visible at lower F settings of say 7.1 or 8. I think I used a very high setting of around 20 to get this image:


Careful - changing the F-stop should not change the sharpness of different parts of the image. DOF refers to objects that are physically located at different distances (focal planes) from the lens. In the case of screenshots, the object is the screen. If you're taking a picture straight into the screen, everything on the screen is at the same focal plane and DOF doesn't apply. So if the windows appear out of focus compared to the car, that's because it's that way in the source (the artist intentionally created a shallow DOF effect) and not generated by your screenshot.

If you're shooting at an angle, then DOF starts to apply.

All other things being equal, a higher F-stop will tend to provide an overall sharper image, but if it's too high then lens diffraction and vignetting comes into play and starts to soften the image. The typical sweet spot is f8~f16 on most SLR lenses.

And just to open another can of worms, DOF depends on f-stop and the focal length of the lens. For example, background objects will look very out of focus for a telephoto lens (say 105 mm) @f2.0, while they'll look much sharper a wide angle (say 20mm) @f2.0.

For the most consistent screenshots, it's best to shoot in manual mode. Anirbana posted a great tutorial in post# 928. I would also add:

- manual focus: Don't try to focus on the screen image - it may be too dark to correctly judge in the tiny viewfinder. Instead, tape any paper with print on it on the screen and focus on that; make sure there's as much light on as possible. Once the focus is set, don't mess with it. You can remove the paper and turn off the lights.

- exposure metering: try to pick out a part of the screen image is 'middle' in brightness and tone. eg dirt, grass, wood, etc. Try to fill the viewfinder with the middle tone object as much as possible. It's ok if you need to get closer, but don't refocus - you don't need to be in focus to get a proper exposure reading.

- bracket around the suggested exposure. If the camera says shutter speed should be x sec, then take 5 shots: nominal-2, nominal-2, nominal, nominal+1, nominal+2.

As you get more experience, you'll get a better feel for the proper exposure and will need to bracket less.
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:15 AM
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ilsiu
You going to post some screenshots?
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Old 03-19-2009, 08:47 AM
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I just got my RS10 set up last night and decided to try taking some screen shots. These are the fist screen shots I've ever taken, and it's my fist projector. I am using a Grandview Screen, and a PS3 as my blu ray source.







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Old 03-19-2009, 09:47 AM
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:50 AM
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ilsiu,
Thanks for the info. What you said about shooting at a flat screen and depth makes sense. I've been shooting straight-on for the most part. I may try a little bit of an angle. For the record, I have been using Anirbana's method. I've also discovered quickly about setting the exposure on brighter parts of the screen. The paper thing is interesting and I'll give that a try.

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Old 03-19-2009, 09:55 AM
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vmayers,
I think you and Kevin will have a lot in common. I believe the RS 10 and HD 350 are the same. Also, your first shots look pretty darn good to me.

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Old 03-19-2009, 09:57 AM
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Kevin,
I'm still trying to figure out how you found my f setting and exposure. I know it has to be somewhere in the properties, but I don't see it



[quote=Kevin 3000;16075843]
Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

Anirbana,
Thanks for the additional info. In the photo below, I discovered that the details of the windows in the background were not so visible at lower F settings of say 7.1 or 8. I think I used a very high setting of around 20 to get this image:

limulus
No need to guess check the pic details - f10 was used at 1 second exposure. The more you shoot the better you will get hopefully, i am a lost case though.


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Old 03-19-2009, 10:39 AM
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[quote=limulus;16077243]Kevin,
I'm still trying to figure out how you found my f setting and exposure. I know it has to be somewhere in the properties, but I don't see it



Check post 898
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:37 AM
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I have started using manual focus and the way I do it is easy (or lazy) way and hence sometimes the focus is not as sharp.

What I do is pause the image on a scene or image with one central character or object that is very distinct. Set the camera to its position (on sofa now) and use autofocus. The moment it focusses, I change it to manual and the focus remains like that. This is a good method if you have a tripod. With my camera on sofa now, it is difficult to change the shutter speed keeping it static. Little pressure from hands can move the camera.

vmayers, very nice shots keep posting...do calibrate first to ensure you have the best image to capture.
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Old 03-19-2009, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

vmayers,
I think you and Kevin will have a lot in common. I believe the RS 10 and HD 350 are the same. Also, your first shots look pretty darn good to me.

Thanks limulus! I'm going to try taking some more pictures later and play around with the aperture a bit more these ones were taken at F22 with a 6 second shutter.

I do believe you are right with the RS10 and HD350 being the same unit. The only difference I'm aware of is the HD350 does not have the 12v trigger, which was something that I wanted.
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