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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread

541K views 4K replies 391 participants last post by  DataModel 
#1 ·
I just got my RS2 up and configured somewhat and seeing how there are other discussions on other threads about setup, I figured it would be good to have one place to talk about how we are all configuring our new projectors.


So here we go:


I upgraded from a Dilard'ized G11/Panamorph/9ft wide Firehawk to the RS2/Panamorph UH380 w/M380 transport/10ft wide 2.40 SMX AT screen.


The only thing I've done so far is set the focus and made one red pixel adjustment. Pixel perfect now. Wow, what a great image!


Here's the first thing I noticed on setup. The image zoom, now automatic vs. manual on the RS1, zooms from the center outwards in all directions. In all directions equally; unless that is, you have the pj mounted higher than the center of the screen. Then it zooms differently on the top vs. the bottom because the image is being thrown on a downward angle. This should not be an issue if you plan on setting up your image to the top of the screen initially and thereafter use the V-Stretch mode/anamorphic lens combo to do widescreen material.


My setup:


Projector is 100" off the floor, center of lens.


Top of screen is 87" off the floor.


Projector is 18 ft back from screen.


Panamorph lens/sled mounted in front of the projector with the included support plate. It is a little tedious to mount the Panamorph system but well worth it. IMO, you must use the chain supports for this setup for proper weight load balance. See picture below. EDIT: All motorized Panamorph systems now come with a thicker mounting plate so the support chains are no longer needed. Nice.


Having everything as perfectly level as possible results in almost perfect image geometry with the lens in the light path.


IMPORTANT NOTE:


With this combo of distances, this is about the max you can go with the pj being higher than the top of screen. There is almost no more adjustment with the manual lens shift downward. You can give the the pj a little downward tilt in front, but you will lose perfect image geometry.


Starting from a full zoom in position and moving to a full zoom out position, the image moved UP 13" on the top and DOWN 54" on the bottom because of the downward light path.


The saving grace, and thank you Shawn Kelly from Panamorph for helping me get this straight, is that when using the Pannie setup I should rarely, if ever, have to adjust lens shift or zoom. With the new 'V-Stretch' scaling in the RS2, enabling that and having the lens motor'ifically slide into place to expand the image to the full 2.40 screen width, that keeps the image full screen at least top to bottom. Wow, that Shawn didn't cut no corners with his latest entry. When you take that stuff out of the box, you really feel like you got your monies worth. I've always been a huge supporter the the anamorphic lenses. Well done Shawn.


EDIT: 02-09-08


With 40 hours on the RS2, I finally had time to set levels with a test disc.


I used the Avia dvd first thru an Oppo970 upconverting player set to 720p and then a Toshiba A30. All measurements directly from the DVD players to the RS2. All settings in the dvd players at default.


First the Toshiba using HDMI, upscaled:


Gamma at 'normal', color temp 'middle'.


Contrast -1


Brightness -1


Color 0


Sharpness 0


Tint 0, tint is not adjustable on the RS2, I'm assuming because of the now individually adjustable RGB colors.


With Gamma at Theater 1, color temp 'middle'.


Nice to see there was little need for adjustments vs. the factory 'normal'.


Contrast -0


Brightness -2


Color 0


Oppo player using HDMI, upscaled to 720p:


Gamma normal


Contrast 5


Brightness 0


Color -2


Gamma Theater 1


Contrast 5


Brightness -1


Color -2


EDIT: Feb. '09. 250 hrs. on the bulb


Settings using DVE BR disc thru a PS3, HDMI direct to the RS2:


Gamma 2.4 with the 5 point bump up at 5% IRE, color temp middle


Contrast -3


Brightness 1


Color -3


The resulting image is outstanding. Contrast and image depth is fantastic. Color levels seem to be a little strong, maybe too much for some, but to me with a couple ticks less saturation, they look great. There is a lot of user adjustability in the menus. Very nice!


This is one fine projector. I can't imagine anyone not being extremely satisfied with it.


Edit 4-19-11


At 638 hrs. on the bulb I had Jeff Meier do a full calibration. The results:


Initial light level 3.0 fl in 2.35 mode. Final light output 3.3 fl and 4.5 fl in 16:9 mode. 170 lumens at 638 hours.


Pre on/off contrast ratio 5078, post cr 13052.


Pre gamma 2.02, post gamma 2.21


Color temp, gamma curve and gray scale RGB ratios were reasonably close pre cal and spot on post cal.


I happen to have had the new Panamorph lens, the DC1 in my possession during the cal as well as my regular lens, the UH480. We did a light loss comparison with both in and out of the light path.


Light loss for the DC1 was 0.6% and 1.7% for the 480. Not bad at all. Those numbers were much lower than I expected and definitely not noticable between the two.


That's about it. I haven't had much time to do any serious viewing yet but initially the image looked pretty darn good after the calibration. I'm considering going to a Seymore screen material to replace my SMX material to pick up a little more brightness. I have a sample of it and it's a bit whiter than the SMX material.


Issues:


Lens shake:


Many have experienced a shaking of the image during deep or strong bass passages, myself included. The easy fix is to use the pink foam that came packed around the lens and fit it snugly back in around the lens.



VStretch IR:


There is no 'one touch' IR command for VStretch on the early RS2's. See note below. You will need to go into the menu to engage/disengage VStretch or do an IR macro to do it. I use a macro and it works perfect. The RS2 is very quick in handling IR commands. The only catch is that when you do your macro, you must include commands that back you all the way out of the menu to the start. Otherwise, you will not be in the starting position of the menu the next time you engage/disengage VStretch.


I will try to compile pics and links from the pages of this thread as pertinent info comes up:


Projector Overview:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/f...l_id=MDL101733


Reviews posted on the JVC website:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/a...&feature_id=09


Throw Distance Calculator:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-...calculator.htm


For those interested in a true widescreen experience using all the RS2 has to offer, an anamorphic lens is a must have. Check out the Panamorph system. I have it and it rocks! Click on the screen to watch the video.

http://www.panamorph.com


Lamp Replacement:


Follow the links to the lamp and DIY method. Several owners have done this with great results.


toddius' excellent how to post(#4068) w/pics:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/957044/rs2-pro-fpj1-owners-setup-discussion-thread/4050#post_22476884


Lamp hour counter reset:


In standby mode.


Press Exit, Enter, Hide then hold Arrow down for 2 seconds or more.


Standby indicator will flash for 3 seconds and then go back to standby.


Once turned back on counter should be back to Zero.


Link to the Osram bulb many are using:

http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html


Quote from Alan Gouger on page 12:


"Guys try running the RS2 with Gamma set to 2.4


Then go in and bump 5 IRE 5 points. Set contrast to + 10 and brightness + 3.


The picture is incredibly CRT like. The projectors black level is able to handle the lower CRT gamma curves.


My experience with these settings any BD or HD DVD title that previously showed banding and posturization is now just as clean and solid as CRT. Amazing.


This is quite the projector."


I personally use this gamma and it is fantastic. My C & B ended up being a little lower than +10 and +3 based on the DVE HD/Avia disc and my personal taste, but to each his own.


Neutral density filters:


"Hi for all concerned. My ND Filter is a B+W 82mm ND 0.6 -2BL 4x Filter.


It screws straight into the front lens using the existing thread. There is no light reflection that Greg Rogers tells you to watch out for. It works bloody well." Thanks to Badas for that one. Do a Google search for many results.


And thank you to Badas for this one:


"A couple of weeks ago we were having a big discussion on ND Filters. I have always used them on my projectors. It takes away that raw digital effect. I had discussed using a 0.3 ND filter instead of a 0.6 ND as the lamp loses power. My Lamp is at 1280 hours and the light output was getting a lot lower.


I took my advice and got a 0.3 ND filter. I am happy to report that this trick works very well. It has let more light on screen but has retained that analoge look that ND filters produce. So when I have a new lamp I will use a 0.6 ND filter. When the lamp Dims (about 1000 hours) I will use the 0.3 ND Filter. If you are using a 0.6ND and find your lamp dimming try a 0.3ND.


I got mine from Amazon: Tiffen 0.3ND 82mm."


If you are considering the ND filter, make sure you check out Badas' comments on page 111 regarding filters and zoom range.


Quote from Matt Natale:


"Good News and Bad news.


Your RS2's main version must be 229 for these commands to work. There is no way to upgrade.


New RS-232 commands:


V-Stretch ON: 21 89 01 5653 31 0A


V-Stretch OFF: 21 89 01 5653 30 0A


New IR commands:


V-Stretch ON: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D


V-Stretch OFF: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D"


What this means is that if you have a later build of the RS2, like the RS2X instead of the original RS2U, these codes for V-Stretch ON/Off will work without having to do menu macros.


The ir codes below are on a Word doc. Copy and paste these using an ir program, like Pronto Edit.


Chris




 


 

RS2 IR Codes.doc 62k . file







 
 

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#2,983 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM /forum/post/16829814


This is a fixed resolution panel projector meaning no matter what the input is it is always displyed as its native (1080p) resolution. Now with CRT it is a different story as they are multi scan devices.

That is correct!!!

1080i/60 is what the projector see's on the input. The output is always 1080P.
 
#2,988 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rravelo155 /forum/post/16836603


Has anyone used a 120" screen for this pioneer PRO FPJ1 projector?

Im using a 126" screen.. Love it!
 
#2,992 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw /forum/post/16836309


Not sure what you mean. It reports 1080p24 when it "sees" a 24 FPS signal from my Oppo. I thought I read that it projects it as 1080p 96hz, but could be mistaken.

Yes 1080p24 will result in 96hz not 48.
 
#2,994 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rravelo155 /forum/post/16836959


Can I ask how far back your projector is.


I only have 17ft and my screen is an optoma 1.8 gain 120"?

17 feet is plenty room to throw a 126" image.. My pj is about 12.5-13 feet from the screen.. Im sitting about 13.5-14ft from the screen. Perfect size for my viewing distance. Thats just my opinion.. Originally I was going with a 110" screen but it was to small for me.. 126" really gave me that cinema experience.
 
#2,995 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by rravelo155 /forum/post/16836603


Has anyone used a 120" screen for this pioneer PRO FPJ1 projector?

133" Da-Lite High power at 13'


I dont watch movies; I LIVE them. Everything else I've seen is a let down.


So glad I went bigger than "the norm" and am now set for wide screen if need be.


PS; I'm looking for a NIB FPJ1 after a friend ( or two ) "saw the light".

Anyone know of any decent deals ?
 
#2,996 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by lightguy /forum/post/16848450


133" Da-Lite High power at 13'


I dont watch movies; I LIVE them. Everything else I've seen is a let down.


So glad I went bigger than "the norm" and am now set for wide screen if need be.


PS; I'm looking for a NIB FPJ1 after a friend ( or two ) "saw the light".

Anyone know of any decent deals ?

I seen a couple for sale but I dont think there authorized dealer..


I do know of one here in the bay area. Its not NIB thought it was a demo. But the guy said he'd consider selling it.
 
#2,998 ·
As soon as my drill is fully charged I'm going to be opening up my masking system going from 42" high to 44". My DIY screen is limited at 104" wide, and since I created the masking frame specifically to accommodate 2.35/2.4:1 content, 44" is going to be as tall as I can go without making a new screen.


The nice thing about DIY though, is I only have $40 or so invested in the one I have, so making up a new, bigger one isn't going to bust my budget. And the masking system I have over it can be modified with just a couple hours work.


I remember it wasn't that many years ago when people like Guy Kuo were singing the praises of going a little smaller than average to tighten up the image. Since 1080p and HD players, you sure don't hear that P.O.V. expressed much anymore.
 
#2,999 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP /forum/post/16848651


Speaking of screen size, any dedicated 2.35:1 screens out there with an RS2/FPJ1 using an anamorphic lense and if so what size?

RS2/Panamorph Lens and Sled with an SMX 2.40 AT screen. 10ft wide and loving it.



Chris


Side note:

A buddy of mine and forum member Doug has a second home here in Havasu and has the RS2/Pannie combo with the new SMX curved screen/motorized masking system. WOW, is that nice! Masking off for any AR with a push of the button is SWEET.
 
#3,000 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCLAY /forum/post/16855464


RS2/Panamorph Lens and Sled with an SMX 2.40 AT screen. 10ft wide and loving it.



Chris


Side note:

A buddy of mine and forum member Doug has a second home here in Havasu and has the RS2/Pannie combo with the new SMX curved screen/motorized masking system. WOW, is that nice! Masking off for any AR with a push of the button is SWEET.

I was just curious on how wide I could go with this unit and still maintain a bright image. Did you ever find a way of switching to anamorphiv mode without going thru the menu system?
 
#3,001 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP /forum/post/16855682


I was just curious on how wide I could go with this unit and still maintain a bright image. Did you ever find a way of switching to anamorphiv mode without going thru the menu system?

To me it's plenty bright, but I'm 100% light controlled.


No, I still use a Control4 macro to switch to VStretch, but it's fast and works perfect every time.


Chris
 
#3,002 ·
Hi,

I've tried calibrating for the first time by following the grey scale for dummies guide and using the spyder2 meter.

My PJ has 160 hours on it. I've measured all color temperatures while using gamma 2.4 and found that the best looking RGB graph was on low temperature so I used it, tweaked the offset so I'll get closer and then played a LOT with the gamma settings.

I got a descent RGB measurements so far but for some reason the gamma stays screwy. What could be the reason and how Can I fix it?


Thanks!

 
#3,003 ·
You can't. This projector does not have enough control for full calibration. You need an external VP or a good blu-ray player that has the controls this projector is lacking. When you tweak the offset you really changing all the other settings as well, that is why you find it screwy.
 
#3,004 ·
Well it looks like this on all of the different measurements I took except from 80-100% where the red and blue were a little bit closer to the green (different temperatures and gamma settings and without touching the offset).

So I guess all I have to do is try to tweak it a little bit better and leave it at that.


Thanks.
 
#3,005 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP /forum/post/16874835


You can't. This projector does not have enough control for full calibration. You need an external VP or a good blu-ray player that has the controls this projector is lacking. When you tweak the offset you really changing all the other settings as well, that is why you find it screwy.

Are you confusing primery/secondary color with graycsale?

What bluray offers such control?!! None!


He has tweaked his gray scale and RS2/clone has enough control for that.
 
#3,006 ·
EyalR,


Take a look at my attachment. This is my latest attempt at calibrating using ColorHCFR and the i1 Lite colorimeter. I used to use the Spyder2 but I've found this to be more consistant, accurate and faster. I don't have anything other than the software and i1.


If I can get results this good, you can too.
Stick with it. I've had to monkey around with the settings a lot to get this far. On this particular calibration I chose to use the Memory1 setting and left Offset at 0 across the board. I decided on the best Contrast and Brightness settings based on the AVSHD Rec709 Disc. Then I used the software and colorimeter to determine the optimum settings for RGB Memory1 at 70IRE.


After that I went in to Gamma and tweaked the other IRE values. There's a lot of give and take and they all affect one another. It takes some time and patience. Once thing I found out is that if your original settings at 70IRE using Memory1 or 2 or the Offset isn't close to accurate, then no amount of tweaking in the Gamma area will do anything. You have to play around with it. I've used 60IRE and 50IRE as starting points as well.


Anyway, hope this helps.



Wayne

 

HP Laptop Rec709 July 21 09.doc 349k . file
 

Attachments

#3,007 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM /forum/post/16875233


Are you confusing primery/secondary color with graycsale?

What bluray offers such control?!! None!


He has tweaked his gray scale and for that RS2/clone has enough control for that.

If one is trying to get good CMS you simply can not do it with the limited color controls on this projector. To get perfect gamut with this PJ you need and external VP, also many of the newer high end blu-ray players from Denon and Pioneer give you greater color control lattitude the this PJ. Now as far as greyscale my RS2 was as good as I could ever want out of the box.
 
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