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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread

541K views 4K replies 391 participants last post by  DataModel 
#1 ·
I just got my RS2 up and configured somewhat and seeing how there are other discussions on other threads about setup, I figured it would be good to have one place to talk about how we are all configuring our new projectors.


So here we go:


I upgraded from a Dilard'ized G11/Panamorph/9ft wide Firehawk to the RS2/Panamorph UH380 w/M380 transport/10ft wide 2.40 SMX AT screen.


The only thing I've done so far is set the focus and made one red pixel adjustment. Pixel perfect now. Wow, what a great image!


Here's the first thing I noticed on setup. The image zoom, now automatic vs. manual on the RS1, zooms from the center outwards in all directions. In all directions equally; unless that is, you have the pj mounted higher than the center of the screen. Then it zooms differently on the top vs. the bottom because the image is being thrown on a downward angle. This should not be an issue if you plan on setting up your image to the top of the screen initially and thereafter use the V-Stretch mode/anamorphic lens combo to do widescreen material.


My setup:


Projector is 100" off the floor, center of lens.


Top of screen is 87" off the floor.


Projector is 18 ft back from screen.


Panamorph lens/sled mounted in front of the projector with the included support plate. It is a little tedious to mount the Panamorph system but well worth it. IMO, you must use the chain supports for this setup for proper weight load balance. See picture below. EDIT: All motorized Panamorph systems now come with a thicker mounting plate so the support chains are no longer needed. Nice.


Having everything as perfectly level as possible results in almost perfect image geometry with the lens in the light path.


IMPORTANT NOTE:


With this combo of distances, this is about the max you can go with the pj being higher than the top of screen. There is almost no more adjustment with the manual lens shift downward. You can give the the pj a little downward tilt in front, but you will lose perfect image geometry.


Starting from a full zoom in position and moving to a full zoom out position, the image moved UP 13" on the top and DOWN 54" on the bottom because of the downward light path.


The saving grace, and thank you Shawn Kelly from Panamorph for helping me get this straight, is that when using the Pannie setup I should rarely, if ever, have to adjust lens shift or zoom. With the new 'V-Stretch' scaling in the RS2, enabling that and having the lens motor'ifically slide into place to expand the image to the full 2.40 screen width, that keeps the image full screen at least top to bottom. Wow, that Shawn didn't cut no corners with his latest entry. When you take that stuff out of the box, you really feel like you got your monies worth. I've always been a huge supporter the the anamorphic lenses. Well done Shawn.


EDIT: 02-09-08


With 40 hours on the RS2, I finally had time to set levels with a test disc.


I used the Avia dvd first thru an Oppo970 upconverting player set to 720p and then a Toshiba A30. All measurements directly from the DVD players to the RS2. All settings in the dvd players at default.


First the Toshiba using HDMI, upscaled:


Gamma at 'normal', color temp 'middle'.


Contrast -1


Brightness -1


Color 0


Sharpness 0


Tint 0, tint is not adjustable on the RS2, I'm assuming because of the now individually adjustable RGB colors.


With Gamma at Theater 1, color temp 'middle'.


Nice to see there was little need for adjustments vs. the factory 'normal'.


Contrast -0


Brightness -2


Color 0


Oppo player using HDMI, upscaled to 720p:


Gamma normal


Contrast 5


Brightness 0


Color -2


Gamma Theater 1


Contrast 5


Brightness -1


Color -2


EDIT: Feb. '09. 250 hrs. on the bulb


Settings using DVE BR disc thru a PS3, HDMI direct to the RS2:


Gamma 2.4 with the 5 point bump up at 5% IRE, color temp middle


Contrast -3


Brightness 1


Color -3


The resulting image is outstanding. Contrast and image depth is fantastic. Color levels seem to be a little strong, maybe too much for some, but to me with a couple ticks less saturation, they look great. There is a lot of user adjustability in the menus. Very nice!


This is one fine projector. I can't imagine anyone not being extremely satisfied with it.


Edit 4-19-11


At 638 hrs. on the bulb I had Jeff Meier do a full calibration. The results:


Initial light level 3.0 fl in 2.35 mode. Final light output 3.3 fl and 4.5 fl in 16:9 mode. 170 lumens at 638 hours.


Pre on/off contrast ratio 5078, post cr 13052.


Pre gamma 2.02, post gamma 2.21


Color temp, gamma curve and gray scale RGB ratios were reasonably close pre cal and spot on post cal.


I happen to have had the new Panamorph lens, the DC1 in my possession during the cal as well as my regular lens, the UH480. We did a light loss comparison with both in and out of the light path.


Light loss for the DC1 was 0.6% and 1.7% for the 480. Not bad at all. Those numbers were much lower than I expected and definitely not noticable between the two.


That's about it. I haven't had much time to do any serious viewing yet but initially the image looked pretty darn good after the calibration. I'm considering going to a Seymore screen material to replace my SMX material to pick up a little more brightness. I have a sample of it and it's a bit whiter than the SMX material.


Issues:


Lens shake:


Many have experienced a shaking of the image during deep or strong bass passages, myself included. The easy fix is to use the pink foam that came packed around the lens and fit it snugly back in around the lens.



VStretch IR:


There is no 'one touch' IR command for VStretch on the early RS2's. See note below. You will need to go into the menu to engage/disengage VStretch or do an IR macro to do it. I use a macro and it works perfect. The RS2 is very quick in handling IR commands. The only catch is that when you do your macro, you must include commands that back you all the way out of the menu to the start. Otherwise, you will not be in the starting position of the menu the next time you engage/disengage VStretch.


I will try to compile pics and links from the pages of this thread as pertinent info comes up:


Projector Overview:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/f...l_id=MDL101733


Reviews posted on the JVC website:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/a...&feature_id=09


Throw Distance Calculator:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-...calculator.htm


For those interested in a true widescreen experience using all the RS2 has to offer, an anamorphic lens is a must have. Check out the Panamorph system. I have it and it rocks! Click on the screen to watch the video.

http://www.panamorph.com


Lamp Replacement:


Follow the links to the lamp and DIY method. Several owners have done this with great results.


toddius' excellent how to post(#4068) w/pics:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/957044/rs2-pro-fpj1-owners-setup-discussion-thread/4050#post_22476884


Lamp hour counter reset:


In standby mode.


Press Exit, Enter, Hide then hold Arrow down for 2 seconds or more.


Standby indicator will flash for 3 seconds and then go back to standby.


Once turned back on counter should be back to Zero.


Link to the Osram bulb many are using:

http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html


Quote from Alan Gouger on page 12:


"Guys try running the RS2 with Gamma set to 2.4


Then go in and bump 5 IRE 5 points. Set contrast to + 10 and brightness + 3.


The picture is incredibly CRT like. The projectors black level is able to handle the lower CRT gamma curves.


My experience with these settings any BD or HD DVD title that previously showed banding and posturization is now just as clean and solid as CRT. Amazing.


This is quite the projector."


I personally use this gamma and it is fantastic. My C & B ended up being a little lower than +10 and +3 based on the DVE HD/Avia disc and my personal taste, but to each his own.


Neutral density filters:


"Hi for all concerned. My ND Filter is a B+W 82mm ND 0.6 -2BL 4x Filter.


It screws straight into the front lens using the existing thread. There is no light reflection that Greg Rogers tells you to watch out for. It works bloody well." Thanks to Badas for that one. Do a Google search for many results.


And thank you to Badas for this one:


"A couple of weeks ago we were having a big discussion on ND Filters. I have always used them on my projectors. It takes away that raw digital effect. I had discussed using a 0.3 ND filter instead of a 0.6 ND as the lamp loses power. My Lamp is at 1280 hours and the light output was getting a lot lower.


I took my advice and got a 0.3 ND filter. I am happy to report that this trick works very well. It has let more light on screen but has retained that analoge look that ND filters produce. So when I have a new lamp I will use a 0.6 ND filter. When the lamp Dims (about 1000 hours) I will use the 0.3 ND Filter. If you are using a 0.6ND and find your lamp dimming try a 0.3ND.


I got mine from Amazon: Tiffen 0.3ND 82mm."


If you are considering the ND filter, make sure you check out Badas' comments on page 111 regarding filters and zoom range.


Quote from Matt Natale:


"Good News and Bad news.


Your RS2's main version must be 229 for these commands to work. There is no way to upgrade.


New RS-232 commands:


V-Stretch ON: 21 89 01 5653 31 0A


V-Stretch OFF: 21 89 01 5653 30 0A


New IR commands:


V-Stretch ON: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D


V-Stretch OFF: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D"


What this means is that if you have a later build of the RS2, like the RS2X instead of the original RS2U, these codes for V-Stretch ON/Off will work without having to do menu macros.


The ir codes below are on a Word doc. Copy and paste these using an ir program, like Pronto Edit.


Chris




 


 

RS2 IR Codes.doc 62k . file







 
 

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#3,009 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP /forum/post/16877557


If one is trying to get good CMS you simply can not do it with the limited color controls on this projector. To get perfect gamut with this PJ you need and external VP, also many of the newer high end blu-ray players from Denon and Pioneer give you greater color control lattitude the this PJ. Now as far as greyscale my RS2 was as good as I could ever want out of the box.

All he said was that he did his grayscale and you said "you can't". None sense.

FPJ1 doesn't has NO control over color decoder why do keep saying it has limited control.


Which pioneer bluray player offers CMS? Can you elaborate?

No RS2/fpj1 Out Of Box has good grayscale. I am sure it was good enough for you but off by a good margin.
 
#3,010 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM /forum/post/16878341


All he said was that he did his grayscale and you said "you can't". None sense.

FPJ1 doesn't has NO control over color decoder why do keep saying it has limited control.


Which pioneer bluray player offers CMS? Can you elaborate?

No RS2/fpj1 Out Of Box has good grayscale. I am sure it was good enough for you but off by a good margin.

I said "This projector does not have enough control for full calibration.", and

my greyscale was spot on out of the box by the way.
 
#3,011 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by EyalR /forum/post/16877603


Thanks Wayne,

How does your gamma look?

It follows a smooth curve but ColorHCFR says it's below 2.6. Didn't someone say in this thread somewhere that you have to plug in 1.9 if you want 2.2?


Images on screen are incredible with great shadow detail. No crushed blacks or whites. Nice bright image yet good contrast. Nothing appears washed out. I think the 2.8 gain of my High Power screen might be messing with the software/colorimeter or something when it comes to the gamma curve.


Wayne
 
#3,014 ·
Does it matter how you tune the greyscale or all that matters is the final result?

If I get a pretty good result with setting the offset and playing a lot with the gamma curve should I try to get a good result with playing with the color tempreture and offset first and try to tweak the gamma settings as little as possible?


BTW I see that you tweaked the green as well, on the greyscale for dummies they say not to touch it, is this projector an exception?
 
#3,015 ·
Yes, the Gamma WRGB settings should be a final fine tuning. The major change should come from the CT and or Offset controls. I've found that the best way to go about this is to work on the color that's out the farthest first. In my case, blue was the worst so I used that control to go into the minus area I think around 85 or so. Then I chose to adjust green. This is the first projector that I've touched green. With my BenQ W5000 it wasn't necessary and it also didn't have direct 0 to 100 IRE adjustments either, only Gains and Cuts.


However, even though the Guide states not to fool around with green, I found that with this projector I had to in order to get anywhere close to D65. After green was tweaked I lastly tuned in the red. One way you'll know if you're anywhere close to accurate with the CT/Offset results is when you go to the Gamma WRGB controls and start working in there. If you find that you have to move anything to where it's drastically removed from the stock number then you probably need to go back and revisit your earlier work with CT/Offset.


After many tries, I found out that the Gamma controls are meant for small fine tuning only. If you start to move any of the controls in Gamma up or down and don't see the color bar in the software move in response after a few seconds then try one of the other colors. If there's very little movement unless you change the numbers in a huge way, then you're going to be in for a very long and frustrating session.


I'm not sure if there are different ways to the same result or not. With my unit, it seems that unless I have the CT/Offset red near zero, green around 40 below it and blue about 40 below green, I don't get anywhere with my calibrating efforts.


One thing that is very frustrating is the fact that you can't save different Gamma settings for different sources the way you can save Memory1 for HTPC or Memory 2 for BD for instance. Because of this I leave the final tweaked Gamma settings alone once I have them set for one of my sources and then only do CT with the other Memory for the other source and get it as close as possible. It seems to not end up as good as the best tweaks for source number one but it sure beats going in to the Gamma controls and re-setting all of those numbers just for watching one movie with a different source.


By the way, I never touch the Gamma W control because I don't really know what to do with it.


Wayne
 
#3,017 ·
With digital pj it is actually the red that remains at max or near initially and eventually at the max. In long haul it become red deficient and need green/blue adjusted.

Some change the bulb early due to red deficiency.

WRGB tweaks the entire gray curve (rather than R-G-B) at 5% piont intervals in order to flatten the curve.
 
#3,018 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty /forum/post/16878599


What, in theory, would look better ( more vibrant) I dimmer projector on a HP screen 2.8 gain or a brighter projector on a 1.0 gain screen? Size under 100 inches. I recently found out that I am indeed a lumen fiend.

In another thread you said your main issue is in dark not bright clips.

If so that is not a lumen whereas calibration/set up issue.

If you don't have a calibrating disk get one and calibrate your black level with (brightness, gamma and wgamma) for best shadow detail.
 
#3,020 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMo /forum/post/16880108


Yes, one should be calibrating for RGBW but in order to calibrate Gamma W one must have the option to adjust for both X and Y values, something I would have to ignore on my own projector although the option is there.

In FPJ1 the X value are preset at 5% intervals and Y are user's adjustable.
 
#3,023 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by thegamer36 /forum/post/16880383


I am looking for a screen and was wondering what gain I should be looking at.

Projector is 18.5 feet from the screen and the sitting position is about 13 feet.

I would like to get a screen that is at least 120" diagonal.

Projector is the FPJ1.


Thanks for the help.

Depending on the money there aren't many gains to choose from.

Either unity gain or HP with 2.8. Now if you want stewart you have options.

For 120" unity gain might be on the dark side after the bulb get some hours.

Going HP has its compromises that need to be understood before purchase.
 
#3,024 ·
Wayne, I've tried your route but had to start tweaking the gamma a lot so I went back and tweaked my last settings.

Maybe the fact that my lamp is new (160 hours) makes it a lot different than yours. I'll measure it again in about 200 hours but for now I'm satisfied.


My only concern is that I've used my HTPC to play the AVS test disc and I watch movies mainly with my streamer. I'll have to check and see if there are differences.


Edit: it's the same.
 
#3,025 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mystery /forum/post/16879607


Yes, the Gamma WRGB settings should be a final fine tuning. The major change should come from the CT and or Offset controls. I've found that the best way to go about this is to work on the color that's out the farthest first. In my case, blue was the worst so I used that control to go into the minus area I think around 85 or so. Then I chose to adjust green. This is the first projector that I've touched green. With my BenQ W5000 it wasn't necessary and it also didn't have direct 0 to 100 IRE adjustments either, only Gains and Cuts.


However, even though the Guide states not to fool around with green, I found that with this projector I had to in order to get anywhere close to D65. After green was tweaked I lastly tuned in the red. One way you'll know if you're anywhere close to accurate with the CT/Offset results is when you go to the Gamma WRGB controls and start working in there. If you find that you have to move anything to where it's drastically removed from the stock number then you probably need to go back and revisit your earlier work with CT/Offset.


After many tries, I found out that the Gamma controls are meant for small fine tuning only. If you start to move any of the controls in Gamma up or down and don't see the color bar in the software move in response after a few seconds then try one of the other colors. If there's very little movement unless you change the numbers in a huge way, then you're going to be in for a very long and frustrating session.


I'm not sure if there are different ways to the same result or not. With my unit, it seems that unless I have the CT/Offset red near zero, green around 40 below it and blue about 40 below green, I don't get anywhere with my calibrating efforts.


One thing that is very frustrating is the fact that you can't save different Gamma settings for different sources the way you can save Memory1 for HTPC or Memory 2 for BD for instance. Because of this I leave the final tweaked Gamma settings alone once I have them set for one of my sources and then only do CT with the other Memory for the other source and get it as close as possible. It seems to not end up as good as the best tweaks for source number one but it sure beats going in to the Gamma controls and re-setting all of those numbers just for watching one movie with a different source.


By the way, I never touch the Gamma W control because I don't really know what to do with it.


Wayne

I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.


It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.
 
#3,026 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC /forum/post/16880887


I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.


It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.

Doe's not sound like it is something easy for the average bear to do just becuase they have a spyder.
 
#3,027 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP /forum/post/16881199


Doe's not sound like it is something easy for the average bear to do just becuase they have a spyder.

I would agree, I already have hours into it and not close to the tolerances I desire.
 
#3,028 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC /forum/post/16880887


I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.


It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.

Sounds like a bad optical engine too me if that is all they replaced created the tracking issue.

When you send a unit in need to keep fingers crossed.
 
#3,029 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM /forum/post/16881774


Sounds like a bad optical engine too me if that is all they replaced created the tracking issue.

When you send a unit in need to keep fingers crossed.

Problem is they put in a new engine and they will not put another one in, it's complicated when Japan is controlling things.
 
#3,030 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC /forum/post/16880887


I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.


It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.

Sounds like a royal pain Glen.
I've been scratching my head at all of the reviews I've read that stated the RS2 is so close to being accurate that a calibration is almost unnecessary. Maybe I'm picky but my unit although not horrible, was into the 7000 range OTB at the best combination of settings I could come up with. Again, could be far worse and it was very watchable but I don't like that 'Best Buy' look to in image with everything looking a tad on the blue side.


It's good to know that the RS2 can be corrected in home should something like what your customer experienced happen. Lots of time and patience though...


If you ever take a calibration tour anywhere near Michigan or NY State, pop over into Ontario and I'll make use of your expertise.
I'm only a two hour drive from Detroit.


Wayne
 
#3,031 ·
How long would a bulb last on high lamp?I am using blackout cloth for a screen right now and the picture does look nice and especially on bright scenes it looks amazing. But on scenes where the picture is darker or at night the picture quality looks a little to dim for me. Could this be because the PJ isn't calibrated? I am using STANDARD setting. I was thinking of switching to high lamp and the manual says it doesn't decrease the life of the lamp but I have read on here several times that it does.


Could the dim picture on darker scenes be because of the blackout cloth screen or because its not calibrated correctly? Any opinions would be great.
 
#3,032 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisx510 /forum/post/16885095


Could the dim picture on darker scenes be because of the blackout cloth screen or because its not calibrated correctly? Any opinions would be great.

Sounds like you are saying that the blacks are too dark...... Dark is supposed to be dark.... There are many issues, wrong gamma, wrong brightness......
 
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