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post #1 of 4253 Old 12-17-2007, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I just got my RS2 up and configured somewhat and seeing how there are other discussions on other threads about setup, I figured it would be good to have one place to talk about how we are all configuring our new projectors.

So here we go:

I upgraded from a Dilard'ized G11/Panamorph/9ft wide Firehawk to the RS2/Panamorph UH380 w/M380 transport/10ft wide 2.40 SMX AT screen.

The only thing I've done so far is set the focus and made one red pixel adjustment. Pixel perfect now. Wow, what a great image!

Here's the first thing I noticed on setup. The image zoom, now automatic vs. manual on the RS1, zooms from the center outwards in all directions. In all directions equally; unless that is, you have the pj mounted higher than the center of the screen. Then it zooms differently on the top vs. the bottom because the image is being thrown on a downward angle. This should not be an issue if you plan on setting up your image to the top of the screen initially and thereafter use the V-Stretch mode/anamorphic lens combo to do widescreen material.

My setup:

Projector is 100" off the floor, center of lens.

Top of screen is 87" off the floor.

Projector is 18 ft back from screen.

Panamorph lens/sled mounted in front of the projector with the included support plate. It is a little tedious to mount the Panamorph system but well worth it. IMO, you must use the chain supports for this setup for proper weight load balance. See picture below. EDIT: All motorized Panamorph systems now come with a thicker mounting plate so the support chains are no longer needed. Nice.

Having everything as perfectly level as possible results in almost perfect image geometry with the lens in the light path.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

With this combo of distances, this is about the max you can go with the pj being higher than the top of screen. There is almost no more adjustment with the manual lens shift downward. You can give the the pj a little downward tilt in front, but you will lose perfect image geometry.

Starting from a full zoom in position and moving to a full zoom out position, the image moved UP 13" on the top and DOWN 54" on the bottom because of the downward light path.

The saving grace, and thank you Shawn Kelly from Panamorph for helping me get this straight, is that when using the Pannie setup I should rarely, if ever, have to adjust lens shift or zoom. With the new 'V-Stretch' scaling in the RS2, enabling that and having the lens motor'ifically slide into place to expand the image to the full 2.40 screen width, that keeps the image full screen at least top to bottom. Wow, that Shawn didn't cut no corners with his latest entry. When you take that stuff out of the box, you really feel like you got your monies worth. I've always been a huge supporter the the anamorphic lenses. Well done Shawn.

EDIT: 02-09-08

With 40 hours on the RS2, I finally had time to set levels with a test disc.

I used the Avia dvd first thru an Oppo970 upconverting player set to 720p and then a Toshiba A30. All measurements directly from the DVD players to the RS2. All settings in the dvd players at default.

First the Toshiba using HDMI, upscaled:

Gamma at 'normal', color temp 'middle'.

Contrast -1

Brightness -1

Color 0

Sharpness 0

Tint 0, tint is not adjustable on the RS2, I'm assuming because of the now individually adjustable RGB colors.

With Gamma at Theater 1, color temp 'middle'.

Nice to see there was little need for adjustments vs. the factory 'normal'.

Contrast -0

Brightness -2

Color 0

Oppo player using HDMI, upscaled to 720p:

Gamma normal

Contrast 5

Brightness 0

Color -2

Gamma Theater 1

Contrast 5

Brightness -1

Color -2

EDIT: Feb. '09. 250 hrs. on the bulb

Settings using DVE BR disc thru a PS3, HDMI direct to the RS2:

Gamma 2.4 with the 5 point bump up at 5% IRE, color temp middle

Contrast -3

Brightness 1

Color -3

The resulting image is outstanding. Contrast and image depth is fantastic. Color levels seem to be a little strong, maybe too much for some, but to me with a couple ticks less saturation, they look great. There is a lot of user adjustability in the menus. Very nice!

This is one fine projector. I can't imagine anyone not being extremely satisfied with it.

Edit 4-19-11

At 638 hrs. on the bulb I had Jeff Meier do a full calibration. The results:

Initial light level 3.0 fl in 2.35 mode. Final light output 3.3 fl and 4.5 fl in 16:9 mode. 170 lumens at 638 hours.

Pre on/off contrast ratio 5078, post cr 13052.

Pre gamma 2.02, post gamma 2.21

Color temp, gamma curve and gray scale RGB ratios were reasonably close pre cal and spot on post cal.

I happen to have had the new Panamorph lens, the DC1 in my possession during the cal as well as my regular lens, the UH480. We did a light loss comparison with both in and out of the light path.

Light loss for the DC1 was 0.6% and 1.7% for the 480. Not bad at all. Those numbers were much lower than I expected and definitely not noticable between the two.

That's about it. I haven't had much time to do any serious viewing yet but initially the image looked pretty darn good after the calibration. I'm considering going to a Seymore screen material to replace my SMX material to pick up a little more brightness. I have a sample of it and it's a bit whiter than the SMX material.

Issues:

Lens shake:

Many have experienced a shaking of the image during deep or strong bass passages, myself included. The easy fix is to use the pink foam that came packed around the lens and fit it snugly back in around the lens.


VStretch IR:

There is no 'one touch' IR command for VStretch on the early RS2's. See note below. You will need to go into the menu to engage/disengage VStretch or do an IR macro to do it. I use a macro and it works perfect. The RS2 is very quick in handling IR commands. The only catch is that when you do your macro, you must include commands that back you all the way out of the menu to the start. Otherwise, you will not be in the starting position of the menu the next time you engage/disengage VStretch.

I will try to compile pics and links from the pages of this thread as pertinent info comes up:

Projector Overview:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/f...l_id=MDL101733

Reviews posted on the JVC website:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/a...&feature_id=09

Throw Distance Calculator:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/JVC-...calculator.htm

For those interested in a true widescreen experience using all the RS2 has to offer, an anamorphic lens is a must have. Check out the Panamorph system. I have it and it rocks! Click on the screen to watch the video.

http://www.panamorph.com

Lamp Replacement:

Follow the links to the lamp and DIY method. Several owners have done this with great results.

toddius' excellent how to post(#4068) w/pics:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/957044/rs2-pro-fpj1-owners-setup-discussion-thread/4050#post_22476884

Lamp hour counter reset:

In standby mode.

Press Exit, Enter, Hide then hold Arrow down for 2 seconds or more.

Standby indicator will flash for 3 seconds and then go back to standby.

Once turned back on counter should be back to Zero.

Link to the Osram bulb many are using:

http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html

Quote from Alan Gouger on page 12:

"Guys try running the RS2 with Gamma set to 2.4

Then go in and bump 5 IRE 5 points. Set contrast to + 10 and brightness + 3.

The picture is incredibly CRT like. The projectors black level is able to handle the lower CRT gamma curves.

My experience with these settings any BD or HD DVD title that previously showed banding and posturization is now just as clean and solid as CRT. Amazing.

This is quite the projector."

I personally use this gamma and it is fantastic. My C & B ended up being a little lower than +10 and +3 based on the DVE HD/Avia disc and my personal taste, but to each his own.

Neutral density filters:

"Hi for all concerned. My ND Filter is a B+W 82mm ND 0.6 -2BL 4x Filter.

It screws straight into the front lens using the existing thread. There is no light reflection that Greg Rogers tells you to watch out for. It works bloody well." Thanks to Badas for that one. Do a Google search for many results.

And thank you to Badas for this one:

"A couple of weeks ago we were having a big discussion on ND Filters. I have always used them on my projectors. It takes away that raw digital effect. I had discussed using a 0.3 ND filter instead of a 0.6 ND as the lamp loses power. My Lamp is at 1280 hours and the light output was getting a lot lower.

I took my advice and got a 0.3 ND filter. I am happy to report that this trick works very well. It has let more light on screen but has retained that analoge look that ND filters produce. So when I have a new lamp I will use a 0.6 ND filter. When the lamp Dims (about 1000 hours) I will use the 0.3 ND Filter. If you are using a 0.6ND and find your lamp dimming try a 0.3ND.

I got mine from Amazon: Tiffen 0.3ND 82mm."

If you are considering the ND filter, make sure you check out Badas' comments on page 111 regarding filters and zoom range.

Quote from Matt Natale:

"Good News and Bad news.

Your RS2's main version must be 229 for these commands to work. There is no way to upgrade.

New RS-232 commands:

V-Stretch ON: 21 89 01 5653 31 0A

V-Stretch OFF: 21 89 01 5653 30 0A

New IR commands:

V-Stretch ON: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D

V-Stretch OFF: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D"

What this means is that if you have a later build of the RS2, like the RS2X instead of the original RS2U, these codes for V-Stretch ON/Off will work without having to do menu macros.

The ir codes below are on a Word doc. Copy and paste these using an ir program, like Pronto Edit.

Chris
LL

LL


 



 


RS2 IR Codes.doc 62k . file


LL

LL



 

Attached Files
File Type: doc RS2 IR Codes.doc (62.0 KB, 21 views)

My Home Theater is a work in progress.
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post #2 of 4253 Old 12-17-2007, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCLAY View Post

Here's the first thing I notice that had me scratching my head. The image zoom, now automatic vs. manual on the RS1, zooms from the center outwards in all directions. In all directions equally; unless that is, you have the pj mounted higher than the center of the screen. Then it zooms differently on the top vs. the bottom.

This changes because, I assume, in mounting the projector up high you are forced to employ the lens shift, hence the zoom changes characteristics.

Maybe it's because it's getting late, but I'm not sure why that is so. It's no doubt obvious but I'm missing it right now...

BTW, how do you find the image sharpness on the projector?
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post #3 of 4253 Old 12-17-2007, 11:13 PM
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If what you are saying is true, I am probably hosed. It looks like tomorrow night, I will be making some measurements. I need to up the priority of this because from my initial test, things were going to work fine. I guess the lens offset is going to kill me. If that is the case, I'm not sure what my plan B is going to be. If only the Radiance was HDMI 1.3 out of the box (for audio purposes).

Well I guess we shall see tomorrow hopefully.

-- Well I have really blown my budget now. --
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post #4 of 4253 Old 12-18-2007, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

This changes because, I assume, in mounting the projector up high you are forced to employ the lens shift, hence the zoom changes characteristics.

Maybe it's because it's getting late, but I'm not sure why that is so. It's no doubt obvious but I'm missing it right now...

BTW, how do you find the image sharpness on the projector?

Yes, when you shift the image down, the axis of the beam is now on a downward angle from the RS2 compared to the vertical screen. If the screen were tilted to be at a pure right angle to the beam, the zoom would be even on top and bottom. Nobody would do that of course, but I'm thinking that's the way it works. I need to take my pj down for the Panamorph mounting so I'll try to set the pj on my pony wall that is pretty close to center of screen and take more measurements.

Making a comment on the sharpness may be a moot point because I don't anything but my G11 to compare to and I've seen very few top end projectors in the last few years. Having said that, I've watched little bits of this and that, Fifth Element non HD, SW Attack of the Clones, MNF and some others stuff in HD. To me the sharpness is excellent.

Cameron, are you not planning on using an anamorphic lens? I'm not sure how your setup is going to be, but there is always the manual adjustments for up and down. For the most part, you would only have to adjust when going from a 16:9 image to a 2.35 image, right? All 4:3, 16:9 would stay at the top. 1.85 would be pretty close as well.

Chris

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post #5 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 11:43 AM
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Crap crap crap.

Well I hung the projector up and did some testing. The offset definitely dramatically changed the zoom. Switching from a 51" tall 16:9 image zoomed out to a 120" wide scope, the image was off 7". So that puts me back to the drawing board a bit.

-- Well I have really blown my budget now. --
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post #6 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 12:24 PM
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Thanks for reporting back Cameron. I'm sorry to hear it. Hopefully you'll work something out - I presume the RS2 is worth it.
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post #7 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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It would even be helpful if the RS2 had the vertical shift range built in to the software like the older DILA's, but the range now is very minimal using the remote.

Chris

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post #8 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CCLAY View Post

It would even be helpful if the RS2 had the vertical shift range built in to the software like the older DILA's, but the range now is very minimal using the remote.

Chris

I'm confused: Since the RS2 does not do lens shift via the remote, which "vertical shift" are you referring to when you say "the range now is very minimal using the remote."?

Thanks.
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post #9 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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On my G11, vertical/horizontal image shift is done thru the menu/remote. The shift on the RS2 is now done mechanically via the knobs with physical lens movement, right?. There is still, however, a v/h shift available in the menu system of the RS2, but the range of vertical(up/down) is quite small now compared to the G11. Horizontal shift doesn't really come into play because once you get your image centered, you really don't have a need to adjust it again.

The difference between the two ways, RS2 knobs vs. G11 menu, of shifting the image is that in using the knobs on the RS, the image shifts as a whole image up/down. The RS2 lens actually moves, as you know. On the G11, the image shifts up/down 'inside' the projected 4:3 panel you see on the screen and the lens doesn't move. Example, when I shift the image up on the G11, I will eventually lose the upper part of the image because it is moving outside the range of the panel. Same with down, left and right.

But, the only time I would use that, and I did it often, is in going from one ratio to another. A 4:3 image is at the top of the screen, right? When I put on a 2.35 movie, the image is centered in the screen. Black bars on top and bottom. I would simply 'shift' the image up to the top and zoom out to fill my 2.35 screen. That simple. Even simpler, because I had Dilard, an automation program designed for the G series projectors, do it with one push of a button on my Pronto.

The bottom line for me is I would have a hard time getting up to lens shift my RS2 every time I change ratios. I wish they would have put more range into a software image shift.

With the Panamorph lens and motorized transport though, I shouldn't have to do much of that. The RS2 V-Stretch will take a 2.35 image and fill it to the top of the screen and the Pannie will stretch the image out to the sides. I'm still setting up but so far, so good.

Chris

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post #10 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 03:19 PM
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What settings is everyone using? I have a PS3 and Tosh A30 HD-DVD player and I'm not sure if I should be selecting enhanced black or standard on the RS2 or source devices. The black level doesn't seem as good as the local RS1 demo that I saw.
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post #11 of 4253 Old 12-19-2007, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't got that far yet.


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post #12 of 4253 Old 12-20-2007, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GScott View Post

What settings is everyone using? I have a PS3 and Tosh A30 HD-DVD player and I'm not sure if I should be selecting enhanced black or standard on the RS2 or source devices. The black level doesn't seem as good as the local RS1 demo that I saw.

Enhanced is for PC use. You should select Standard for DVD and HDDVD.
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post #13 of 4253 Old 12-21-2007, 09:17 PM
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Well I went though a lot of ideas to handle my setup problems. I made many pro/con spreadsheets for the various scenarios.

As of yesterday, I had designed a system to raise and lower my screen to match the zoom offset that occurs from my ceiling mount RS2.

After looking in to how to pull that off, I came across some of the posts regarding the exceptionally good priced Optoma/Panamorph lens kits.

I have decided to go with one of those and placed the order. At the sub $2500 price, this works best for me for now. I don't have to worry about zoom/focus position.

Now the only thing that would be really good is to know the ir or rs232 code to enable vstretch.

Anybody have any luck yet on finding this? I can do it with a macro, but I'm sure there is a code out there for that.

-- Well I have really blown my budget now. --
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post #14 of 4253 Old 12-21-2007, 10:37 PM
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So do I understand correctly the storyline: You were, like me, going to be using the "zoom" method for changing image size (ala CIH)? But lens off-set issue when mounting the projector on the ceiling has forced you to bite the bullet and buy an anamorphic lens.
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post #15 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 06:52 AM
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Those that have your projector setup what is your brightness and contrast settings? I set mine using DVE and ended up with a brightness of -1 and a contrast of -3. The problem is the black level is not all that great. I can easily see a 0 IRE screen and black space scenes do not look all that black. This wasn't the case with the local RS1 demo I viewed. I'm stumped because the RS2 should have twice the contrast and roughly half the black level of the RS1. I also have misconvergence issues on the right 1/3 and bottom 1/3 of the screen. The red is off by 1 line on the DVE convergence pattern and easily seen from 12' back.
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post #16 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 09:13 AM
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Rich,

That is exactly it. It helped to find the Panamorph with motorized sled for less than $2500.00. I did have a pretty cool implementation designed for raising and lowering the screen, I could have kept the cost on that under $500.00, but it woul have been a pain to implement.

I happen to have a 9' wide 16:9 Grayhawk, but it would have cost me $3500+ to go that route (replace with AT higher gain material) and then I wouldn't have a 10' widescreen scope screen.

I contemplated changing my center channel speaker to a horizontal mount (it is 3' wide by 8.75' high) and going with the full blown carada solution with the masking addon. That would have been pretty cool, but it was causing speaker placement problems with my subs etc. The sound is very important to me too.

So I'll stick with the 10' scope and deal with minor Anamorphic lens issues. I'm pretty sure I will be happy with this implementation. I will probably add a lumagen VP sometime next year too.

So what solution are you going with?

-- Well I have really blown my budget now. --
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post #17 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GScott View Post

Those that have your projector setup what is your brightness and contrast settings? I set mine using DVE and ended up with a brightness of -1 and a contrast of -3. The problem is the black level is not all that great. I can easily see a 0 IRE screen and black space scenes do not look all that black. This wasn't the case with the local RS1 demo I viewed. I'm stumped because the RS2 should have twice the contrast and roughly half the black level of the RS1. I also have misconvergence issues on the right 1/3 and bottom 1/3 of the screen. The red is off by 1 line on the DVE convergence pattern and easily seen from 12' back.

Something sounds wrong. Out of the box, my RS2 is clearly the "blackest" digital that I have seen. Is the black level looking bad on all sources?

The MC sounds pretty bad too. I think somebody else had their projector replaced for that very issue.

Now that I have heard two people with this problem, I think I need to use DVE to check my total convergence also.

-- Well I have really blown my budget now. --
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post #18 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 09:29 AM
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Cameron,

With my panamorph lens, and my very short throw 1.4-1.5x, I have insignificant distortion and very uniformed CA on the outer vertical lines of my screen.

Thats nice that you found the motorized sled Panamorph at that price .. via Optoma. Thankfully my 15S1 has the squeeze that makes my fixed placement a non-hassle, but it would have been nicer to have the sled option to get un-processed 16:9.
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post #19 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameron View Post


So what solution are you going with?

I still plan to use the zoom method. As I've mentioned with the projector in a cabinet behind the viewing sofa and employing a TV lift, I'll be able to have the projector pretty much centered with the screen. So, hopefully it will work out.
This HT project is already getting expensive so I have to cut corners somewhere. At least starting out with the zoom method is one way of keeping costs down. I was also going to get a Lumagen VP along with the projector, but
will most likely start with just the projector and see how it goes.
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post #20 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 02:20 PM
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I don't think you are cutting corners with your lift/zoom implementation. Having done the zoom with the projector centered. I was very happy with everything. I will probably get a bit of CA and distortion as my current throw is about 1.8ish.

Catdaddy,
I think there was somebody that was selling the motorized sled in the classifieds. I could be wrong, but it might be a good deal for you.

-- Well I have really blown my budget now. --
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post #21 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 02:24 PM
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I bet your CA and distortion will be negligible, Cameron. 8)

Ill check out the classifieds but unless its coming in at a few hundred, Im pretty good as it is. 8)
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post #22 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's the lens/sled setup. I'm in the process of getting up hopefully this weekend.

Chris
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post #23 of 4253 Old 12-22-2007, 10:01 PM
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Nice! Good luck getting it up and going. Post some tips/tricks when you are done.

I also like the granite.

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post #24 of 4253 Old 12-23-2007, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Cameron.

Will you be using the attachment plate? It makes the RS2, lens and motorized sled an 'all in one' affair. It's a great method, but for me I think it's too heavy for the space on my ceiling where I can mount the assembly.

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post #25 of 4253 Old 12-23-2007, 07:32 PM
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Yeah I need to pick one of those up from AVS. How much does the plate weigh? I am having a few technical concerns with my mount so far. I had contractors make a cross joist that didn't connect with the upper ceiling. It doesn't have as much strength as I would like. It was fine for the RS2 by itself, but I will have to see with all of the added Panamorph weight. It will probably be OK, but I am not 100% sure. I will be able to tell when everything arrives, but until then, it does worry me.

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post #26 of 4253 Old 12-23-2007, 11:12 PM - Thread Starter
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My solution as of now will be to mount the RS2 to the ceiling via the RPA mount and attach the lens/sled assy. to my light tray board directly in front of the pj unit.

Chris

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post #27 of 4253 Old 12-23-2007, 11:16 PM
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Yeah. Well I hope it works out for you. One thing I noticed is that the RPM mount that I have is not exactly balanced with the projector. This is a good thing for adding the extra weight of the panamorph. At least it will somewhat balance out the extra weight. I am really curious to see how it actually pans out.

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post #28 of 4253 Old 12-23-2007, 11:30 PM
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I've attached some pics of my RS2 convergence. Maybe I was expecting too much but coming from a CRT the misconvergence is easy for me to spot.
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post #29 of 4253 Old 12-25-2007, 12:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, my idea of mounting the lens/sled to the soffit board just won't work so I am back to the recommended installation of mounting the assy. to the attachment plate. It really is, in the long run, the better, more secure way to go. I will post some pics when I get it mounted.

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post #30 of 4253 Old 12-25-2007, 12:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GScott View Post

I've attached some pics of my RS2 convergence. Maybe I was expecting too much but coming from a CRT the misconvergence is easy for me to spot.

It's a little hard to see in your pics the degree of misconvergence. Do you see this as well on the green grid?

I had red off by one adjustment down and that was it. As far as I can see, keeping in mind I haven't thrown anything up yet except the green grid, everything else seems to be darn near perfect.

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