Time to get this thread back on the first page
I got some issues doing calibration of my 1080UB unit (TW-2000) using an i1 meter.
Have run thru a couple of calibrations now (using Curt's guide), but most of the times I end up with a very distinct red (especially when showing brightness and contrast test patterns (the flashing bars is redish) from a REC 709 HDDVD test disc).
This is using low brightness mode. Have done both with and without iris. With iris it's a pain to get it correct. Slightly easier to get it "correct" without iris.
Correct according to HCFR and the i1... but always with the redish flashing bars.
In my RGB settings I usually end up with a fair amount of Offset and Gain on the red in order to get my grayscale correct, which I would presume give me the redish flashing bars.
Typically I would expect these to be flashing greying bars.
I see that under the RGBCMY settings I also in many instances must go to the +/- extreme in order to get to the defined xy-parameters, if at all.
Typically this also involves reducing saturation. Doing this the Y goes down drastically, and I have tried to compensate with increasing brightness.
I feel a bit awkward when I reach the extremes, as it don't feel right...
Is my assumption about increasing brightness to compensate for reduced saturation correct? (Curt's guide do not say anything about it, rather he says that if the Y goes down drastically, let it be)
My initial starting point is:
HDMI video range extended
Epson superwhite off
Wrt gamma it seems that I need to set it to 2.4 or custom in order to get it anywhere close to 2.22.
The best fit I get using a custom gamma.
Which lead me to another question. When is it correct to adjust gamma?
Prior to everything? After greyscale? or?
I found an Epson document online describing how to do a ISF cal. using a VP and initial settings for that.
That document had the following initial settings:
Epson superwhite on
Can't explain why.
One last thing.
In curt's guide a typical value for a front PJ is ftL 12-16. I get nowhere close to that. Typically I can get up to ftL 7. Tried various positions/angles etc on the i1.
My screen is a few years old now, I think it is a whitish type with gain 1.1.
Brand might be Projecta or similar.
Any inputs are welcome.