Inside The Electroline EDA 2400 Amplifier - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-13-2009, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I've been suffering from bad reception for years due to too many passive splits. It was only last year when I decided to get a digital cable box did I discover how intolerant digital signals are to signal degradation.

So in steps the Electroline dropamp I split the cable off at the service entrance 3 ways one to my modem and the other two to the two 4 port drop amps on both the first and second floors of the house. Problem solved.

The horribly small pics of the insides of the Dropamp at Electroline's site weren't cutting it for me so here are some better ones.

I like to know what's inside the technology I rely on.

I tried keeping them as high res as possible. Without having too large a file size.

These amps are indeed built tough inside and out. The black gasket makes the enclosure water tight. The cast aluminum body isn't too shabby either!

The heart of the amp is the Electroline branded Gallium Arsenide IC.

U2 is the voltage regulator for the IC it's a +8 volt I believe.

The power supply section is isolated from the RF section (via that little dividing wall) in the enclosure to help block interference.
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post #2 of 7 Old 05-14-2009, 04:03 PM
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I had a problem with my EDA FT08100. In the wall-wart power supply, the electrolytic capacitor failed. Replaced it with a better cap and it is working fine. The bad capacitor was a Wisdom 2200 uF @ 35V 85C.

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post #3 of 7 Old 12-28-2009, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up!!

I cracked open both of the wall warts and low and behold Wisdom capacitors 1000uf 25V 85C in both of them. I replaced them preemptively. So if you have the 4 port amps I can confirm they do use this brand of bad cap.

These adapters get pretty hot and I guess those no name crap caps can't take the heat.

I used a Nippon Chemicon KMG 105C General Purpose cap as a replacement. Since we're dealing with 60Hz here there is no need for low ESR.

Be sure to use quality Japanese brand caps like Panasonic, Nippon Chemicon, or Nichicon.

I hate to bump an old thread but I had to confirm this.
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-31-2009, 06:06 PM
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I recently acquired a used EDA 2800 amplifier that is degrading rather than amplifiying the signal. I cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner which helped. I want to open it up to check inside but it does not want to pop open. Do you have any suggestions as to what the problem may be or how to open it?
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post #5 of 7 Old 05-21-2012, 09:11 PM
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I've got an EDA 2100 that quit amplifying the signal, which I am sure has mostly the same internals as the EDA 2400. The power adapter gets hot and when you shake it hot, you can hear the internals rattling around, which doesn't happen when cold.

I was wanting to use a switched-mode power supply with it for efficiency and stable voltage, but 15v is an odd voltage for these. I looked around on electroline's website and google, but all I can find besides this post is their recommendation a 15v 200ma adapter be used with it. I happen to have a 12v 2amp power supply. Since U2 is an +8 voltage regulator, does that mean the EDA 2100/2400 should work fine at 12 volts?

Sorry for resurrecting a dead post, but this seemed very relevant to my question.

Thanks.
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-01-2012, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colinnwn View Post

Since U2 is an +8 voltage regulator, does that mean the EDA 2100/2400 should work fine at 12 volts?

Looks like U2 is a 7808. It should have no problems running at +12V input. Not clear if the +12V is used anywhere else in the circuit. Perhaps you've already tried this, seeing as it's been about 10 days since you asked the question.

But, given that there are "internals rattling around", I'd wager that the power supply voltage is the least of your problems.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-01-2012, 07:34 AM
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Sorry wasn't clear. The internals of the power supply rattle around. The amplifier seems fine. I finally got my F to RCA adapter, and soldered a RCA plug on the new power adapter. I plugged it in and the amplifier lit up. I haven't got it wired in to see if it successfully passes the cable signal.

I believe with the old original adapter the light was also coming on, but it was blocking the cable signal instead of passing/amplifying it. Thanks for the info. If it doesn't work, I'll know it isn't low power, that the amplifier has something wrong internally with it.
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