Any alternative to Winegard AP8275 PS-1403 splitter...they are no good! - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 06-21-2013, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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So I am cutting the cable...actually in about 10 minutes I will be calling DirecTV and telling them goodbye. Anyhow, I made a Mclapp antenna and it works really well for a free device with parts laying around. However, I was missing a few channels after I hooked up all 3 tvs to it so I installed an AP8275, a Winegard pre-amp. I got it from a guy who had it laying around for several years but never used it...was still in original box and packaging. I hooked it up with 2 tvs initially and it worked very well. I picked up all the channels in my market on both. Well, i hooked up the third and final TV today and I noticed that a couple of the channels werent coming in, but went to work and when i came home, there were more channels not working. Upon inspection, I discovered the light on the PS-1403 splitter was off and was no longer working, which would explain the problems.

In looking on the internet for replacements and that part has low low reviews everywhere. Does anyone know of replacements I could use instead for the Power supply? I like the pre amp bc it works very well. thanks!
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post #2 of 18 Old 06-21-2013, 07:31 PM
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Online reviews by people who don't know what they're talking about should be considered useless.

The WG PS1403 inserter and power supply have been around for almost two decades and have proven they're quite robust in everyday use.

Get another and you should be fine as long as you don;t have any other faults in your system.
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post #3 of 18 Old 06-22-2013, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelzmike View Post

I got it from a guy who had it laying around for several years but never used it...was still in original box and packaging.

Electrolytic capacitors can “dry out” if they are not used for a long period of time. They may show open (low or no capacitance) or they may short out. In either case the circuits they are used in will no longer function properly. Not saying this is what happened in your case, just saying it could happen.
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post #4 of 18 Old 06-22-2013, 09:03 AM
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Take it to a TV Repair Shop and have them replace the electrolytic capacitors. That's assuming you can't do a little shopping at Radio Shack, and a little soldering, yourself.
Pretty simple task.

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post #5 of 18 Old 06-22-2013, 09:36 AM
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Buy this on eBay for $9.99 with free shipping and use just the power inserter. I know it's a bargain basement grade product, but so what? I installed one just like it in the headend of a Ramada hotel, a decade ago and it is still working.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMERSON-10dB-DIGITAL-TV-SIGNAL-BOOSTER-AMPLIFIER-AMP-FOR-INDOOR-OUTDOOR-ANTENNAS-/271225935624?pt=US_Signal_Amplifiers_Filters&hash=item3f26535708
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post #6 of 18 Old 06-22-2013, 10:53 AM
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Are you sure that the Walwort Power Supply is outputting DC Voltage??
And the coax cable connecting it to the PS-1403 Power inserter doesn't have a short??
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post #7 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 12:18 AM
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I agree with ProjectSHO89; buy another power supply and power inserter:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=ps-1403&d=winegard-ps1403-power-injector-/-inserter-for-pre-amp-18-volt-(ps-1403)&sku=615798399382

I also agree with holl_ands; there might be a coax short.

The power injector/power inserter looks like a splitter, but it doesn't work like a splitter. Even Solid Signal incorrectly calls it a splitter. The purpose of the power injector is to allow the coax to carry the DC power up to the preamp AND to send the signals down to the TV.

If you are feeding more than one TV, then you must also be using a splitter. The splitter should be between the power injector and the TVs. If you have the splitter between the preamp and the power injector, it might cause a short that would make the power injector hot and fail.

http://www.pctstore.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/pct-bema-xx%20and%20pct-ma-b_instruction%20sheet.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005Y12UH6
note that it's an add-on item that can only ship with other items

also here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCT-POWER-INSERTER-DIGITAL-COAX-PCT-MPI-1G-TAP-5-1002Mhz-24VDC-MAX-BRAND-NEW-/190841169617?pt=US_Splitters_Combiners&hash=item2c6f0526d1

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post #8 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 03:24 AM
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As mentioned above, if you are using the usual Cable TV type RF Splitter in between Power Inserter and the Preamp, it will either BLOCK the DC Voltage, or (rarely) short it out. SATELLITE type RF Splitters nearly always have DC PASS on one or both ports to pass DC Voltage from SAT Receiver to LNB's on Dish....that's what WILL pass DC from Power Splitter to Preamp.
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post #9 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 03:44 AM
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Holland has splitters with one port power pass which is what I use. I use the 3 port version which passes power to the preamp on one port. I use DC voltage blocks on the other 2 ports as backup protection. The power pass port goes down to the TV connected to the power supply.
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post #10 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 03:52 AM
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Also Holland remote power supply is on sale from MCM for $2.99 when you use source code SC32AB. And the Holland 15db dist amp is $14.99 with that code, and can be used as a preamp with the remote power supply. And they also have the DC voltage blocks on sale. But the power specs on the Holland power supply may be a bit different from the Winegard, but should still work. I use a Motorola power supply in place of a Winegard at my sister's house, and it works fine with the AP-4800 preamp.
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post #11 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerSC View Post

Also Holland remote power supply is on sale from MCM for $2.99 when you use source code SC32AB.

Is that for the power supply or just the remote power inserter for someone who has a power supply already?

FWIW, most cable TV amplifier power supplies are 12 VDC, whereas I think the Winegard preamp supplies are 18 volts. With most some (edit) amplifiers, the amplifier gain is less at 12VDC than at 18VDC. I can readily observe that when I flip the 13v/18v switch on my portable spectrum analyzer that I use when peaking an antenna. Most people don't need the full gain of the Winegard high gain model and so if they still use a circuit design where gain varies with voltage, a user may actually be helped by the lower gain at 12VDC.
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And the Holland 15db dist amp is $14.99 with that code, and can be used as a preamp with the remote power supply. And they also have the DC voltage blocks on sale. But the power specs on the Holland power supply may be a bit different from the Winegard, but should still work. I use a Motorola power supply in place of a Winegard at my sister's house, and it works fine with the AP-4800 preamp.

I've been using 10, 15, and 20 dB cable TV amps as mast mounted preamps for over a decade now. I've installed somewhere between fifty and a hundred and never had a problem with them in that application. TVC in Pennsylvania had to get rid of a few thousand of the one way preamps and I bought a slew including power supply and power inserter, for an average price of $10 each on eBay. They were using the name Home-something-Supply. Unfortunately, those are all gone and they aren't coming back.
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post #12 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 09:02 AM
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For the OP: As others have stated a splitter should be AFTER the power inserter. If it must be before the power inserter then make sure that you use the DC pass port on the splitter to connect to the power inserter block as shown below (click or double click image for larger view or download to your computer).

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post #13 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntAltMike View Post

Is that for the power supply or just the remote power inserter for someone who has a power supply already?

FWIW, most some cable TV amplifier power supplies are 12 VDC, whereas I think the Winegard preamp supplies are 18 volts. With most some amplifiers, the amplifier gain is less at 12VDC than at 18VDC. I can readily observe that when I flip the 13v/18v switch on my portable spectrum analyzer that I use when peaking an antenna.

I just checked the only Winegard amp I have on my truck, an HDP 269, 12dB gain model, and it developed the same strength output whether I fed it 13 volts or 18 volts.

I also looked at more than half a dozen of the industry-standard configuration wall-wart-with-F-female-terminal power supplies and all but one was 12 volts. The other was 15 volts but I don't know what product it came with..

FWIW, I remember that Winegard used to use AC to its preamps when I started in this business in the 1970s, but it is dangerous for me or anyone to generalize based on our lifelong observations because they are not comprehensive, we do not know if there is a bias to our informal "sample" and we might not even be mentally tallying our observations accurately
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post #14 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 12:56 PM
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Winegard Preamps, e.g. HDP-269, AP-8700, 8275, 3800, 4800, 2870, 8780, 8800, 4700, 2880 & 3700 use 78M08 Voltage Regulator chip with 10.5 VDC minimum input (see "line regulation"):
http://doc.chipfind.ru/motorola/mc78m08ac.htm
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?p=1616634
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?p=1598506

Channel Master CM-0265DSB Spartan Preamp uses Infineon TLE4276GV10 Voltage Regulator with 10.5 VDC (Vq+0.5 v) minimum input (P/N per schematic posted by uhmgawa):
http://doc.chipfind.ru/infineon/tle4276gv10.htm
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/showthread.php?p=1285455

I don't have any interior photos or schematics for other Channel Master Preamps....perhaps someone can point to one????
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post #15 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 02:14 PM
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One thing to keep in mid when "documenting" Channel Master preamps is that they are now using completely different preamps sporting the old familiar and trusted part numbers.

Given the way that parts prices have steadily declined, I'd expect that any preamp designed in the last decade has an onboard voltage regulator chip. And at some point, linear power supplies in wallwarts will be ancient history. I remember back around 1980, seeing a couple of electrical engineers ridiculing the first switching power supply they had ever seen because its filter capacitor was, by their estimates, way too small. It could be that all the new ones are switching. I have no way of knowing because I have no reason to break one open. My time is too valuable to repair one so if I ever do, it will only be under duress.

Are there any modern (i.e., designed in this century) wallwarts with the slip in plugs that have positive sleeves? My Drake TSM1000 meter had one, and when the charging jack wore out, Drake had to cut a 1" hole in the chassis and pop rivet a piece of fiber circuit board to support the replacement jack because the chassis was negative but Drake didn't have any panel jacks with the outer conductor insulated from the threaded mounting body..
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post #16 of 18 Old 06-23-2013, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntAltMike View Post

One thing to keep in mid when "documenting" Channel Master preamps is that they are now using completely different preamps sporting the old familiar and trusted part numbers.

I think it was oldteddy who started a thread comparing the present CM7777 and 7778 to the original ones, and while i don't remember if any current units of Spartan or DSB preamps were analyzed (do they even make them anymore?), I would expect them to be completely different animals than the originals, too.

But regardless of how crappy the newed 7777s and 7778s are compared to the earlier models, they surely have onboard chip regulators in them.
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post #17 of 18 Old 06-24-2013, 07:41 PM
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The newer Channel Master preamps have a totally different power supply and a completely different internal design circuitry. But they are apparently well designed with a low noise figure of around 2.7, 2.8. Perhaps a similar design to the PCT/Channel Master dist. amps, which are very good performers. The 7778 with a gain of 16db is probably more than adequate for most applications, whereas the 7777 with 30db gain is only suited for deep fringe applications. But Channel Master made a mistake of bad marketing when they released the new versions, as so many folks were fans of the originals with the reported low noise figure. The new versions are apparently a good product, but they would have been smarter to have created a new model number and better advertising.
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post #18 of 18 Old 06-28-2013, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow! Such interesting and helpful responses...not sure why I didn't subscribe to this thread when I posted it initially and I had assumed no one responded till now (which is highly unusual for this forum so I should have known). Now, to address some of the points. For starters, I had thought that perhaps the cable was shorted out but I am fairly good at making them myself and I made this one and it should be fine, but it is worth another check honestly with another cable though now that I said that I might have already done that. Will do again in case I didn't.

It very well could be the electrolytic capacitors as it had been sitting for a long time in a very hot warehouse for years. I will have to check that out. While I have never done it myself specifically I could probably take this on myself. I do need to test it with a multimeter though, which I have just not had time to do. It did seem to happen the day after I plugged in all the TVs at one time so that may have blown something perhaps?

As far as how I have it hooked up, it is the following:

Antenna -> Preamp and then the ps-1403 has one connection to the power adapter, one coming from the preamp and then the output line going into a splitter that then splits to the rest of the TVs. As far as I gather from the above posts that is how it needs to be.

Now, if I am understanding correctly, are you saying that I can use my old DireTV power inserter even though it might be less volts? I just didn't know so I didn't even try that.

However, I was able to talk with the guy and he gave me an extra ps-1503 he had lying around. I did some research and found that this should work as the ps-1403 actually replaced the ps-1503 so even though it is an older model it should still work somewhat right? I can at least use it till I need something else so long as it works. I know that it is 15v instead of 18v like the ps-1403 but that shouldn't make too much of a difference?

Mike
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