MSI 7411 Motherboard Sneak Peek (share your thoughts!) - Page 82 - AVS Forum
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post #2431 of 3490 Old 07-08-2009, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Schismal View Post

Are your ends soldered to prevent wire fraying?

No they aren't. I haven't yet finished the media room setup so it's just temporary.
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post #2432 of 3490 Old 07-09-2009, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonTHB View Post

The manual does not say that the Diva supports hot plugging of SATA drives and NCQ is not that useful for HTPC (or desktop) use. To keep things simple, because people have reported excessive CPU utilization using AHCI and/or RAID, I suggested that AHCI not be set in the BIOS. The SB700 has support for six SATA ports of which two can be reserved for eSATA. The motherboard only has four SATA ports. I find this very telling.

What mode to use then, Sata "Native IDE" or "Lagacy IDE" ?
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post #2433 of 3490 Old 07-09-2009, 08:29 AM
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Odd. My Diva was set to IDE mode all this time. Who ships a MB in IDE mode? I can't switch it, cause Win7 freaks out. I thought they had fixed the 000007b errors with Vista, but apparently not.
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post #2434 of 3490 Old 07-09-2009, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java Jack View Post

You have the molex power connected to the card and the speaker terminal block seated properly?

I would not suspect the amp card. In all the systems I have done, I have not had 1 amp card have any issues. In fact, of all the systems I have heard about, I can only think of 1 person that had an amp card issue. However, with that said, you might check the tall cap on the power stage (near back end of amp card) and the inductor coil (wire wrapped magnet) on the amp card. The inductor coil should be secured down with RTV (kinda like hot glue gun stuff). Make sure those are both securely in place on the amp card. If those are both OK, then the amp card is probably fine...I have really beat the crud out of these amp cards and they have always worked fine for me.

This really sounds like a config/set up issue. That high density termnial block can be a little tricky. Make sure the wires are not shorting out against each other. Make sure you have the polarity correct.

Regards,
Java

again, thank you for your replies on this. i made a list of things i should take a look at and checked them I still didn't see any difference.

- Sound settings in control panel. this is where i am trying to configure it from the start. all levels are at 100 but the volume is still too low. normal conversations in the movies can't be heard. if i watch the green sound indicator in the "Volume Mixer" it wont go over 35.

- speaker connector. polarities are correct and it is securely plugged in to the card.

- speaker wires. i cut down the speaker wires that came with the JBL SCS 145.5. made sure the length is just enough to connect to all speakers thinking it may be affecting the impedance.

- checked the cap and the inductor. the cap in the card looks ok but the inductor you meditioned is not securely fastened into the board. one side is loosely glued into the board but it doesn't look like to be an issue.

-speaker. i did not have a chance to test it with other speaker set. someone mentioned that my speaker set has a 86db sensitivity rate.I am not sure if that is way below the ave. but it looks like it's not the speakers.


i haven't owned an actual receiver/amp but i really think there is a problem current volume i am getting. considering the reviews and feedback i read regarding the capacity of this amp.

I will do some more testings but im ready to RMA this just to be sure .
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post #2435 of 3490 Old 07-10-2009, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrux View Post

What mode to use then, Sata "Native IDE" or "Lagacy IDE" ?

Native.
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post #2436 of 3490 Old 07-11-2009, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Java Jack View Post

I think everyone that has had a failure was running 95W parts. I am wondering if the combo of 95W parts and limited airflow across the VRs might be what is causing some of the failures. If the VRs overheat, the board will fail pretty quickly.

I have not seen any failures with 65W parts in them in all my builds.

Just for the record. I was using a 45W 4850e dualcore CPU when my board died.

As I was one of the first users to report a "fatality" I'll provide you with a small follow-up. I RMA's the dead Live Diva + 5.1 Amp card to my retailer (Alternate) that itself sent it onwards to MSI to "repair" the board that then went back to the retailer and eventually into my mailbox last week. All in all it took a bit over 2 months to finally get a replacement (At least it came with the upgraded nothbridge heatsink and the correct bracked for the amp card.).
After some minor initial setbacks (The setup wouldnt boot at first, red & green lights only kind of like when the board died, and I was about to throw thing out of the window for good when I recognized I forgot to plug the CPU power cord into the board...) my HTPC is once again up and running.
To increase longlivety I attached a huge 12cm fan to the cpu cooler that conveniently blows over the northbridge heatsink (the cpu stays cool to the touch anyway) and an additional 8cm fan sucks fresh air into the case.

Let's hope that's enough cooling for some more months of HTPC love :-)
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post #2437 of 3490 Old 07-11-2009, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daetty View Post

Just for the record. I was using a 45W 4850e dualcore CPU when my board died.

As I was one of the first users to report a "fatality" I'll provide you with a small follow-up. I RMA's the dead Live Diva + 5.1 Amp card to my retailer (Alternate) that itself sent it onwards to MSI to "repair" the board that then went back to the retailer and eventually into my mailbox last week. All in all it took a bit over 2 months to finally get a replacement (At least it came with the upgraded nothbridge heatsink and the correct bracked for the amp card.).
After some minor initial setbacks (The setup wouldnt boot at first, red & green lights only kind of like when the board died, and I was about to throw thing out of the window for good when I recognized I forgot to plug the CPU power cord into the board...) my HTPC is once again up and running.
To increase longlivety I attached a huge 12cm fan to the cpu cooler that conveniently blows over the northbridge heatsink (the cpu stays cool to the touch anyway) and an additional 8cm fan sucks fresh air into the case.

Let's hope that's enough cooling for some more months of HTPC love :-)

It is unlikely they repaired the board and sent it back. I suspect they just replaced the board.

Hopefully, MSI is running FA (failure analysis) on the board to determine what failed and why.

Regards.
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post #2438 of 3490 Old 07-11-2009, 09:10 AM
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I was running a 65W 9350e when my board went up in a flash of smoke and flame. I had good front to back airflow with 120mm intake an exhaust fans. The replacement board has run well enough with the same hardware for a couple months now. I'd give it a 'C' for stability. Perhaps with the newer NB heatsink I'd have fewer freeze ups/loss of video. I realize I could easily replace the heatsink. But if I stick with this board, I'll also have to get a different tuner to watch and record simultaneously - due to the capacitor issue. I just don't know if I want to go that far with this board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daetty View Post

Just for the record. I was using a 45W 4850e dualcore CPU when my board died.

As I was one of the first users to report a "fatality" I'll provide you with a small follow-up. I RMA's the dead Live Diva + 5.1 Amp card to my retailer (Alternate) that itself sent it onwards to MSI to "repair" the board that then went back to the retailer and eventually into my mailbox last week. All in all it took a bit over 2 months to finally get a replacement (At least it came with the upgraded nothbridge heatsink and the correct bracked for the amp card.).
After some minor initial setbacks (The setup wouldnt boot at first, red & green lights only kind of like when the board died, and I was about to throw thing out of the window for good when I recognized I forgot to plug the CPU power cord into the board...) my HTPC is once again up and running.
To increase longlivety I attached a huge 12cm fan to the cpu cooler that conveniently blows over the northbridge heatsink (the cpu stays cool to the touch anyway) and an additional 8cm fan sucks fresh air into the case.

Let's hope that's enough cooling for some more months of HTPC love :-)

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post #2439 of 3490 Old 07-11-2009, 02:09 PM
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Found a deal on 65Wcpu

Newegg has AMD Phenom X4 9150e 1.8 GHz Socket AM2+ 65W Quad Core Processor for $109 - $30 coupon EMCLVML32 = $79 with free shipping.
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post #2440 of 3490 Old 07-12-2009, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java Jack View Post

It is unlikely they repaired the board and sent it back. I suspect they just replaced the board.

Obviously, as I got the back the newer revision with the taller heatsink. I just wanted to state that I was waiting 9 weeks for a new board as my retailer didn't want to send me a replacement board before they got the RMA'd one back from MSI. And I kind of sucks to get back to standard TV after four years of Media Center PC's :-) (I was using a Shuttle XPC running XP MCE before switching to Live Diva).

Speaking of the new heatsink. After 2h of TV + HD recording Speedfan reports: T1 38°, T2 34°, T3 47° and Core 18°C. T3 can go up as high as 55°C at times and the CPU temp measured by CoreTemp is around 33-36° for both cores. Hopefully cool enough to last for more than another 8 weeks...
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post #2441 of 3490 Old 07-12-2009, 09:15 PM
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Hi everyone,

I'm using Windows 7. How are you guys setting your subwoofer crossover frequency? Also, when you "configure" your speakers in the control panel, there is an option for having full range or satellite speakers. What frequency does this crossover?
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post #2442 of 3490 Old 07-12-2009, 09:54 PM
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I am very interested in this board, but after reading the user reviews at Newegg I am unsure if this board is reliable. Most of the reply's have been very negative. Some have had to RMA the board 2 or 3 times to get a good one.

I figured the best way to find out would be here. So can everyone confirm that this board is worth the price?

I read most of the 80 some pages on this topic, and only saw a few complaining about the quality, but since I am going to have to talk my wife into me building this, I really do not want her to tell me "I told you so".


I asked this same question at MSI's forums, and it was deleted. Go figure!
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post #2443 of 3490 Old 07-12-2009, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clayc View Post

Hi everyone,

I'm using Windows 7. How are you guys setting your subwoofer crossover frequency? Also, when you "configure" your speakers in the control panel, there is an option for having full range or satellite speakers. What frequency does this crossover?

You have control over the x over. Under the properties tab, there is an "advanced" button that allows you to set the x over freq. I think default is around 80 hz if I recall, but as mentioned, you can set it to whatever you like.

Regards.
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post #2444 of 3490 Old 07-12-2009, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paratwa View Post

I am very interested in this board, but after reading the user reviews at Newegg I am unsure if this board is reliable. Most of the reply's have been very negative. Some have had to RMA the board 2 or 3 times to get a good one.

I figured the best way to find out would be here. So can everyone confirm that this board is worth the price?

I read most of the 80 some pages on this topic, and only saw a few complaining about the quality, but since I am going to have to talk my wife into me building this, I really do not want her to tell me "I told you so".


I asked this same question at MSI's forums, and it was deleted. Go figure!

Since this is the first board of its kind for the HTPC market, there are some "teething" issues. I have been lucky that my board was one of the later revisions with the larger northbridge heatsink, so I have not had any problems. I think those who had issues with the board were the early adopters and had to deal with the pain. Most people right now are looking for fmore firmware updates, especially for the AMP/pre-AMP board.

Anyway, good luck.
M
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post #2445 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paratwa View Post

I am very interested in this board, but after reading the user reviews at Newegg I am unsure if this board is reliable. Most of the reply's have been very negative. Some have had to RMA the board 2 or 3 times to get a good one.

I figured the best way to find out would be here. So can everyone confirm that this board is worth the price?

I read most of the 80 some pages on this topic, and only saw a few complaining about the quality, but since I am going to have to talk my wife into me building this, I really do not want her to tell me "I told you so".


I asked this same question at MSI's forums, and it was deleted. Go figure!

Aside from the early heatsink problem, most of the board problems are probably self inflicted....too much processor, too little ventilation, dont even think about a low profile case, this is a 500 Watt amplifier you are putting in there!
I've been running a 4850e in a Silverstone LC17 case (2x80cm fans @ 1000rpm) with a Seasonic 340W supply with no problems for a couple of months now. Does Blu Ray and HD TV faultlessly and sounds fantastic.
Remember you only get the failures on here.....put any figure you like on the good to bad ratio but its got to be 50-1.
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post #2446 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 05:21 AM
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@paratwa

Ah, yes; the Wife Acceptance Factor (you'll actually see some posters abreviate it as "WAF"). Especially if you have a joint checking account!

The only issue that I'm having--still ongoing--is getting stutter free blu-ray playback on a 1080i RCA LCD television. Everything my wife uses runs rock solid: Live TV, DVR functions, DVD movie libraries on hard drives, music playback. My last HTPC was hooked into my 5.1 receiver and did work very well... but it's nice having one less remote control around, since I was able to set my receiver into storage rather than adding one more box to the entertainment rack.

Mine was an early motherboard model with the small heat sink and tall amp bracket. So long as you take care to choose a roomy case with plenty of ventilation--and don't destroy your airflow by allowing for cord clutter as you do your build (zip ties are like gold here), I don't see overheating as being much of a problem.

If you do decide on ordering this board, here's a small list of snags I encountered that you might look out for.

1) If you get a board with foam padding on the backplate, remove that foam before trying to install your board. I'm not sure what MSI had in mind, but it makes it close to impossible to get your motherboard to align with your mounting standoffs--and the foam's not really needed. DO NOT FORCE the motherboard into a case; all you have to hold onto are components that are soldered on the board... you really don't want to damage any of these, and it's easy to crack a trace by applying force to a component. You especially don't want the bottom of your motherboard scraping against the standoffs creating damage you won't see while you do your install. Easy does it.

2) A couple of rubber washers come in handy if your amp card backet is too high. Place them between the head of the screw and the lip of the bracket to give the screw something to tighten against. I made my own "washers" using pieces of the foam padding mentioned above--they stick in place, giving you one less thing to hold onto and align, and you can cut your pieces using the sections that have screw holes in them. It's better to do something like this than it is to try bending the bracket and risk damaging your amp card.

3) Remember this board is meant for HTPC use. Gaming memory with special timings isn't a good idea, nor is that 195W processor you might have your eye on. It's all overkill even if the board did support it. 1.8V memory and a 95W--or under--processor gets 'er done.

4) If you're using speakers left over from a surround sound system you might already have, make sure that subwoofer's power supply doesn't depend on the amp it's connected to. Even if it has a power button on the sub, doesn't mean it's truely a powered sub. You'll need one that has its own power supply and an RCA connector for this motherboard. Trust me, this was an "oh, man!" moment for me--it's the one thing... the ONE thing... I didn't research before ordering my Diva; I assumed I already had what I needed. You know what they say about assuming!

That's pretty much all I've got for you!
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post #2447 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 07:13 AM
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So I'm still having issues with my digital input not working on first try, but now I have a new issue that has cropped up a few times. (This is with Win7 RC) I'll come back to my TV after a few hours and find that the TV reports, "unsupported format". Typically I left the TV in mid video and paused. Sometimes I can fix the problem by pulling out the keyboard and pressing ctrl-alt-delete (and then just hitting cancel leaves me back at the movie). Other times it doesn't want to display video no matter what I do. I know the system isn't locked up because I can unpause the video with the remote....so close to perfection. Stuff like this, while acceptable to me, are a serious problem for secondary users of the htpc.

Speaking of tech-unsavy, has anyone else had to explain repeatedly that the power button on the htpc remote was not supposed to be touched? I swear my roommates are dumb as bricks sometimes.
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post #2448 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 08:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmerPete View Post

So I'm still having issues with my digital input not working on first try, but now I have a new issue that has cropped up a few times. (This is with Win7 RC) I'll come back to my TV after a few hours and find that the TV reports, "unsupported format". Typically I left the TV in mid video and paused. Sometimes I can fix the problem by pulling out the keyboard and pressing ctrl-alt-delete (and then just hitting cancel leaves me back at the movie). Other times it doesn't want to display video no matter what I do. I know the system isn't locked up because I can unpause the video with the remote....so close to perfection. Stuff like this, while acceptable to me, are a serious problem for secondary users of the htpc.

Speaking of tech-unsavy, has anyone else had to explain repeatedly that the power button on the htpc remote was not supposed to be touched? I swear my roommates are dumb as bricks sometimes.


What s/w do you have installed on the HTPC? I had seen something similar when I was running Win 7 (ver. 7201) + CCC 9.6 drivers + TMT 3 Platinum. When I would run 7MC as administrator, the problem went away.

I recently did a complete reinstall and rolled Win 7 back to 7100 (RC) and the problem went away.

As for strange power issues, I ran into one over the weekend. Logitech sent me a DiNovo Edge for testing so I brought it home to test in real world scenario (blog coming on remotes, keyboards/mice soon). Decided to plug in the base station close to my couch. The plug that I used in my wall is controlled by the light switch in the room. I found that while the keyboard is plugged into the base station (charger) and the light switch is on, I can't put the HTPC to sleep. If I remove the keyboard from the charger, unit goes right to sleep. If I move the charger to any other plug in the room, the HTPC will operate correctly. Somehow, the act of charging the keyboard immediately wakes the HTPC as soon as it goes to sleep.

Strange.

Regards.
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post #2449 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java Jack View Post

What s/w do you have installed on the HTPC? I had seen something similar when I was running Win 7 (ver. 7201) + CCC 9.6 drivers + TMT 3 Platinum. When I would run 7MC as administrator, the problem went away.

I recently did a complete reinstall and rolled Win 7 back to 7100 (RC) and the problem went away.

As for strange power issues, I ran into one over the weekend. Logitech sent me a DiNovo Edge for testing so I brought it home to test in real world scenario (blog coming on remotes, keyboards/mice soon). Decided to plug in the base station close to my couch. The plug that I used in my wall is controlled by the light switch in the room. I found that while the keyboard is plugged into the base station (charger) and the light switch is on, I can't put the HTPC to sleep. If I remove the keyboard from the charger, unit goes right to sleep. If I move the charger to any other plug in the room, the HTPC will operate correctly. Somehow, the act of charging the keyboard immediately wakes the HTPC as soon as it goes to sleep.

Strange.

I am just using the Windows 7 RC. The only software I have installed were the ATI drivers (9.6), drivers for the remote/lcd (Antec Fusion Remote black case), Media Portal (not using it since it doesn't like my Hauppage 2250), Firefox, Hulu Desktop, DVD Decrypter, and some 7MC addins (Media Browser, Heatwave, and emucenter). I also have two apps for tagging movies/dvds. I haven't had any odd issues with power like that. Like I mentioned, the computer is working fine...It just is apparently outputting in a format that my TV doesn't like (Phillips 42" LCD). I am running as Administrator. I left UAC at it's default settings.
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post #2450 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmerPete View Post

I am just using the Windows 7 RC. The only software I have installed were the ATI drivers (9.6), drivers for the remote/lcd (Antec Fusion Remote black case), Media Portal (not using it since it doesn't like my Hauppage 2250), Firefox, Hulu Desktop, DVD Decrypter, and some 7MC addins (Media Browser, Heatwave, and emucenter). I also have two apps for tagging movies/dvds. I haven't had any odd issues with power like that. Like I mentioned, the computer is working fine...It just is apparently outputting in a format that my TV doesn't like (Phillips 42" LCD). I am running as Administrator. I left UAC at it's default settings.


You might try rolling the drivers back to 9.4 and see if that has any impact.

When you launch 7MC (just media center not booting the OS), are the menus scrolling smoothly or are they quick jumps from one icon strip to the next? With mine, I noticed that I would have the problem when I could see that the menus in media center were not animated. When I would exit 7MC and then right click on the 7MC icon in the start menu and run it as admin, everything worked correctly. This is not the same as having the User Account logged in as admin. I mean you need to manually force 7MC to run as administrator. For example, click on your win start button and scroll up to an application (does not really matter which app, then right click on that app, you should see an option of Run as Admin.

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post #2451 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java Jack View Post

What s/w do you have installed on the HTPC? I had seen something similar when I was running Win 7 (ver. 7201) + CCC 9.6 drivers + TMT 3 Platinum. When I would run 7MC as administrator, the problem went away.

I recently did a complete reinstall and rolled Win 7 back to 7100 (RC) and the problem went away.

As for strange power issues, I ran into one over the weekend. Logitech sent me a DiNovo Edge for testing so I brought it home to test in real world scenario (blog coming on remotes, keyboards/mice soon). Decided to plug in the base station close to my couch. The plug that I used in my wall is controlled by the light switch in the room. I found that while the keyboard is plugged into the base station (charger) and the light switch is on, I can't put the HTPC to sleep. If I remove the keyboard from the charger, unit goes right to sleep. If I move the charger to any other plug in the room, the HTPC will operate correctly. Somehow, the act of charging the keyboard immediately wakes the HTPC as soon as it goes to sleep.

Strange.

Indeed strange, but you only need to charge your diNivo about once every two months .

Although I have some problems too, sometimes the mouse / keyboard freezes and I have to do powerdown / powerupp of the keyboard. It's by the way a great keyboard with the integrated mousepad ...

Currently I think Logitech hasn't released any Win 7 drivers that might solve these isuues.

Read more about my HTPC Plus project
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post #2452 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 11:24 AM
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Thanks for all your input! I will post in a few to see what you think about what I have selected for my build.
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post #2453 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 11:28 AM
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Sorry about this post, I wanted to post links to the components I wanted to use, but I did not have 3 posts yet.

I humbly apologize! But I do need your input badly, I do NOT want to make any mistakes on this because of the wife factor (WF). I like that WF alot, thanks for letting me know there is an abbreviation for all us men to use that the wife's will not catch on to.
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post #2454 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 11:31 AM
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Once again, thanks for the input! It makes me feel more secure about getting it. I did not know that there was a later version of this board that corrected some of the early problems, so thanks for that info.

I have been waiting until a board like this one came around to build a HTPC. I want this to be as uncomplicated to use as possible. My wife has a huge problem with any kind of tech. So it has, HAS to be easy to use.


Just to let you know I have built a couple of dozen systems over the years for myself and family and friends. So I am pretty well versed in trouble shooting and building. I can not remember the last time I actually called a tech support person. Besides, whatever the information they give you is usually wrong.

I will be using this to watch dvd/bd, tv, and store movies and music. I might not even hook this up to my network, since running a cat5 cable for it would be a major pain. And I hate wifi with a passion. It's way to slow for me, and just not secure enough. I will use a 1394/usb external HD for transfering any files I need to it. Or my 16 gb usb key.

Can I use this as just a stand alone HTPC without A internet connection?

I will not be using this as a gaming machine at all. I have a system built that fills all of my gaming needs on a 23 inch Samsung LCD. It has a i7 920 with a ATI 1g 4870, 650 gig WD HD and 4 gigs of ram.

I will be hooking it up to a Samsung 46 lcd tv that has 3 hdmi inputs and many others.

Here is the system I am thinking about building, Any input from the people here would be greatly appreciated.

nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum panel & Steel HTPC 1000B Micro ATX Media Center
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811204030

nMEDIAPC PRO-LCD Media Center Programmable LCD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811996003

MSI Media Live DIVA 5.1 AM2+/AM2 AMD 780M HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130206

Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 Dual TV Tuner / Encoder 1229 PCI-Express x1 Interface
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815116037

PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS420X 420W ATX12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817703017


AMD Phenom 9150E 1.8GHz Socket AM2+ 65W Quad-Core Processor Model HD9150ODGHBOX
I am thinking about using the stock cooler unless someone has a quieter/better cpu cooler in mind
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103287


Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (maybe 2 of these as pure storage and not in a raid)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136317

LITE-ON Black BD-COMBO SATA Model ihes108-29
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827106300

Patriot Extreme Performance 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220174

I will be using windows 7 rc 64 until I get the full version which I have already pre ordered.


I will also be using my Logitech 550 universal remote for controlling it. Will that work?

And is there any where to purchase a IR receiver for this system by it's self?


Thanks again for any input and for all your help!
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post #2455 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paratwa View Post

Once again, thanks for the input! It makes me feel more secure about getting it. I did not know that there was a later version of this board that corrected some of the early problems, so thanks for that info.

I have been waiting until a board like this one came around to build a HTPC. I want this to be as uncomplicated to use as possible. My wife has a huge problem with any kind of tech. So it has, HAS to be easy to use.


Just to let you know I have built a couple of dozen systems over the years for myself and family and friends. So I am pretty well versed in trouble shooting and building. I can not remember the last time I actually called a tech support person. Besides, whatever the information they give you is usually wrong.

I will be using this to watch dvd/bd, tv, and store movies and music. I might not even hook this up to my network, since running a cat5 cable for it would be a major pain. And I hate wifi with a passion. It's way to slow for me, and just not secure enough. I will use a 1394/usb external HD for transfering any files I need to it. Or my 16 gb usb key.

Can I use this as just a stand alone HTPC without A internet connection?

I will not be using this as a gaming machine at all. I have a system built that fills all of my gaming needs on a 23 inch Samsung LCD. It has a i7 920 with a ATI 1g 4870, 650 gig WD HD and 4 gigs of ram.

I will be hooking it up to a Samsung 46 lcd tv that has 3 hdmi inputs and many others.

Here is the system I am thinking about building, Any input from the people here would be greatly appreciated.

nMEDIAPC Black Aluminum panel & Steel HTPC 1000B Micro ATX Media Center
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811204030

nMEDIAPC PRO-LCD Media Center Programmable LCD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811996003

MSI Media Live DIVA 5.1 AM2+/AM2 AMD 780M HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130206

Hauppauge WinTV-HVR-2250 Dual TV Tuner / Encoder 1229 PCI-Express x1 Interface
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16815116037

PC Power & Cooling Silencer PPCS420X 420W ATX12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817703017


AMD Phenom 9150E 1.8GHz Socket AM2+ 65W Quad-Core Processor Model HD9150ODGHBOX
I am thinking about using the stock cooler unless someone has a quieter/better cpu cooler in mind
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819103287


Western Digital Caviar Green WD10EADS 1TB SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive (maybe 2 of these as pure storage and not in a raid)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136317

LITE-ON Black BD-COMBO SATA Model ihes108-29
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827106300

Patriot Extreme Performance 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220174

I will be using windows 7 rc 64 until I get the full version which I have already pre ordered.


I will also be using my Logitech 550 universal remote for controlling it. Will that work?

And is there any where to purchase a IR receiver for this system by it's self?


Thanks again for any input and for all your help!

I am running almost that same system. I would suggest ditching the LCD display for the following reasons:

1) Displays get hard to read once you are 10' away. I had a few different chassis with different LCD, VFDs, LEDs, etc. Once I am on the couch, I can't really read them so the value is diminished.
2) The LCD is a greenish color and does not really match the aesthetics of the chassis. For example, the LED around the power button on that chassis is blue while the display is yellow/green. Not really a match.

Other differences between what you are spec'ing out and what I have.

HDD: I have the Seagate Pipeline. Either drive should work great though.
TV Tuner: I am using our TV Wonder 650 (x2). Works great and can watch/record multiple shows at one time.
PSU: I am using the corsair 450W. Basically the same PSU spec you are considering. Should work fine.
CPU: I started with a 9350e. Very similar to what you are looking at. Should work great.
Memory: I am using generic 677 memory. As long as the memory you want to use works with the board, sould be OK.
ODD: I am using the combo LG BD/HD DVD player.

Overall, it should make for a good solution for you. By the way, my wife is also tech challenged, she has adjusted fine to our transition from Sat to HTPC.

http://links.amd.com/AllIn

Regards.
Java

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post #2456 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 12:58 PM
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I will be receiving my 3rd Media Live Diva 5.1 board today. The last two died on me. First one died in 20 seconds. The second one worked perfect for 2 weeks and then died. This has been a 2 month process to get a working HTPC all through newegg. For the 2 weeks it was working I had 1080p and 5.1 surround sound working perfect. I will never buy anything but ASUS for a motherboard after this. I just wish they had a solution like this.

Here are my specs.
AMD Phenom 8750 Toliman 2.4GHz 3 core 95w
Onboard ATI Radeon HD3200
MSI Media Live Diva 5.1 plus the preamp soundcard
4 x 1 terabyte sata segate 7200.12 hard drives
4 case fans - 3 x ENERMAX UC-8EB 80mm; 1 x Scythe KAMA FLEX 92mm
Kingston 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
CORSAIR CMPSU-450VX 450W ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS
SILVERSTONE Black Aluminum front panel, 0.8 mm SECC body LC17-B ATX Media Center / HTPC Case
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post #2457 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flook View Post

I will be receiving my 3rd Media Live Diva 5.1 board today. The last two died on me. First one died in 20 seconds. The second one worked perfect for 2 weeks and then died. This has been a 2 month process to get a working HTPC all through newegg. For the 2 weeks it was working I had 1080p and 5.1 surround sound working perfect. I will never buy anything but ASUS for a motherboard after this. I just wish they had a solution like this.


I wish Asus had a board like this as well, since they are my favorites.

Did you ever figure out why the boards fryed? Cheap components?
MSI has always been one of my least favorite manufactures. One of the first systems I built was using a MSI board, ( I think it was a Pentium 133 system) it was a nightmare. But with Asus it has always been install and boot, never a problem.

Anyone heard yet if any other manufactures are going to go with this type of board? It sure would be nice if they did.



Java Jack, thanks for the heads up on the display. I was wondering, will those types of displays show the information like a radio station from the tuner card if I am listening to one? Showing up like 93.5 fm on the screen? Thats one of the main reasons I wanted one, just so that If i just want to listen to radio or music I don't need to turn on the tv.

Since my eyes are getting old I have a problem reading the display on my current stereo as well, but I still need the display on the stereo for what mode I am in and what fm station I am listening to.

EDIT: One more question, why is everyone using the LG drive instead of the Liteon? Is it quieter? I would figure the liteon would be better if for no other reason than it costs less. And really the x2 speed difference between the 2 on BD reading is not that much of a deal. Besides in a year or more these drives will be outdated and the new ones will be $60 for faster drives. Just like when cd, dvd first came out. The only reason I would consider the LG drive is if it is much quieter.
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post #2458 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paratwa View Post

I wish Asus had a board like this as well, since they are my favorites.

Did you ever figure out why the boards fryed? Cheap components?
MSI has always been one of my least favorite manufactures. One of the first systems I built was using a MSI board, ( I think it was a Pentium 133 system) it was a nightmare. But with Asus it has always been install and boot, never a problem.

Anyone heard yet if any other manufactures are going to go with this type of board? It sure would be nice if they did.



Java Jack, thanks for the heads up on the display. I was wondering, will those types of displays show the information like a radio station from the tuner card if I am listening to one? Showing up like 93.5 fm on the screen? Thats one of the main reasons I wanted one, just so that If i just want to listen to radio or music I don't need to turn on the tv.

Since my eyes are getting old I have a problem reading the display on my current stereo as well, but I still need the display on the stereo for what mode I am in and what fm station I am listening to.

EDIT: One more question, why is everyone using the LG drive instead of the Liteon? Is it quieter? I would figure the liteon would be better if for no other reason than it costs less. And really the x2 speed difference between the 2 on BD reading is not that much of a deal. Besides in a year or more these drives will be outdated and the new ones will be $60 for faster drives. Just like when cd, dvd first came out. The only reason I would consider the LG drive is if it is much quieter.


I am using the LG drive because it was the only drive at the time capable of doing both HD DVD and Blu ray. All the other drives I was looking at were Blu ray only.

As for the display, they do show useful info, it just that I found it hard to read from 10 feet away and furthermore, I just never bothered to look at it since most of what I was doing required my TV to be on anyway.

As for the failures, I have asked MSI to look into the returns. It is hard to say what the issues might be, too much power through the VRs, inadequate cooling, etc. Without a full FA run, it is hard to determine root cause. As mentioned previously, I have been running this at home since Oct. of last year with no problem and moved to it as my only box under the TV back in mid Jan. Therefore, this has been used almost every day since Oct. and full time duties since Jan. without any issues. I installed a 2nd box in my bedroom around April and it has had no issues. Granted, the bedroom box does not get used as much as the LR box, but in both cases, I have had 0 issues (unless you count the self inflicted s/w issues anyway).

I am not saying this board (or any board for that matter) is the perfect design, only that my personal experience with this platform has been very positive. Even with all the demo boxes I have built, I have had very few h/w issues.

Regards.
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post #2459 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 04:54 PM
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After reviewing my parts list I changed the ram to WINTEC AMPO 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667. Mostly because of the voltages of the other ram I had picked, It was 2.0 volts and the new one is 1.8 volts. Thanks for the heads up on that, I would have missed that requirement.

Thats why I came here to the experts!

Ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820161241

Java Jack, thanks again for the info. Has MSI ever released the failure rate for this board? I know there are many variances on why it would fail, but how many returns have they had vs sales. I realize that is probably propriety information, and they would never release that to the public.

And, with out turning on the tv, what functions can you do with this without another display. Yes I know I could run some kind of visualization when I am just playing music, but what if I just want some music playing during a romantic evening by candle light. Having that bright tv turned on might be a bit distracting.

Another question. Anyone ever hooked up a phono amp to one of these HTPC's? I still have a large collection of vinyl records from my early days. (I am 49) and I still like listening to them. Some of them are not even available on CD.

And if someone has hooked one up, how did they do it?


EDIT: I just looked up a USB phono preamp and that looks like a viable way of doing it. Does it look like it would work with this HTPC? Can you think what it would entail to make it work with say MCE?
http://www.soundabout.net/phono_preamp_usb.htm

Another EDIT: If I were to use that usb phono preamp using MCE, would there be an option to name it as LP and be able to click on it as a source. Also it has toslink outputs, so, would I be able to use that instead of the USB port. I have never built a HTPC before, so I am really looking at a total one does all thing with it, thats why I am very interested in the motherboard in question. Can anyone see any problems off hand?
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post #2460 of 3490 Old 07-13-2009, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paratwa View Post

After reviewing my parts list I changed the ram to WINTEC AMPO 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667. Mostly because of the voltages of the other ram I had picked, It was 2.0 volts and the new one is 1.8 volts. Thanks for the heads up on that, I would have missed that requirement.

Thats why I came here to the experts!

Ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820161241

Java Jack, thanks again for the info. Has MSI ever released the failure rate for this board? I know there are many variances on why it would fail, but how many returns have they had vs sales. I realize that is probably propriety information, and they would never release that to the public.

And, with out turning on the tv, what functions can you do with this without another display. Yes I know I could run some kind of visualization when I am just playing music, but what if I just want some music playing during a romantic evening by candle light. Having that bright tv turned on might be a bit distracting.

Another question. Anyone ever hooked up a phono amp to one of these HTPC's? I still have a large collection of vinyl records from my early days. (I am 49) and I still like listening to them. Some of them are not even available on CD.

And if someone has hooked one up, how did they do it?


EDIT: I just looked up a USB phono preamp and that looks like a viable way of doing it. Does it look like it would work with this HTPC? Can you think what it would entail to make it work with say MCE?
http://www.soundabout.net/phono_preamp_usb.htm


The challenge here is at the end of the day, it is still a PC. Therefore, it is pretty hard to use without a display of some sort. I know that there are a few sideshow remotes out there, but those are somewhat rare.

You could also look at using a chassis with a touch screen display that would allow you to operate the HTPC without the TV on.

Personally, if all I want is music with no display, I just start a large playlist with the TV on, then just shut off the TV and let the music run. Come back later, turn the TV back on to put the system to sleep.

I have not tired a phono input so not sure what to suggest there.

Regards.
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