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post #4051 of 5196 Old 03-08-2009, 06:50 PM
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I am wondering if I can have both the HDMI and component video active at the same time on my time warner scientific atlanta explorer 4250hdc?

Reason: want to watch live TV via HDMI from the 4250 and then watch recorded TV (also via HDMI) from my HTPC.

Thoughts?
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post #4052 of 5196 Old 03-08-2009, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by horowitzadam View Post

I am wondering if I can have both the HDMI and component video active at the same time on my time warner scientific atlanta explorer 4250hdc?

Reason: want to watch live TV via HDMI from the 4250 and then watch recorded TV (also via HDMI) from my HTPC.

Thoughts?

I'm not sure about 4250, but I can tell you that I use both HDMI and component video outputs on my SA 8300HD. When I'm recording something, I use the pass-through connection (component video), and for watching live TV, I keep my Hauppauge box off and use the HDMI connection instead.
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post #4053 of 5196 Old 03-08-2009, 10:58 PM
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I've been trying to burn an AVCHD disc with TotalMedia Extreme, but right when I get to the actual "Burn" part, the program crashes, I get a Dr Watson warning and it freezes up.

Any help would be appreciated, am I missing a codec or something?
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post #4054 of 5196 Old 03-09-2009, 10:23 AM
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This may not be the best place for it but did anyone see this new Hauppauge product?

Hauppauge Working on HD version of MediaMVP

http://www.cnet.de/videos/trends/410...n+streamen.htm

If the Component option is an input like with the Hauppauge HD PVR 1212, I think I would be interested in getting one. Its probably an output though.
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post #4055 of 5196 Old 03-09-2009, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok here some info
This is a Sigma 8654 based box.
Component Video, S-Video, Composite and HDMI output
Left audio, Right audio and Toslink Digital Optical audio output
Lan Network input
Linux and Samba based.
USB on front for playing local media and who know maybe even a Keyboard.
It can be a standalone (it does not need a PC to boot like the previous MediaMVP did).
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post #4056 of 5196 Old 03-09-2009, 01:10 PM
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Thanks for the info.

Not sure how I would use this if I had it. It might be a good companion product for the Hauppauge HD PVR 1212.
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post #4057 of 5196 Old 03-09-2009, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Octavean
It make good companion product that would something like the SageTV HD200 Extender dose
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post #4058 of 5196 Old 03-09-2009, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonaldR View Post

I'm not sure about 4250, but I can tell you that I use both HDMI and component video outputs on my SA 8300HD. When I'm recording something, I use the pass-through connection (component video), and for watching live TV, I keep my Hauppauge box off and use the HDMI connection instead.

Interesting. I don't have my Hauppauge box yet. When you shut it off to watch live TV via HDMI, does it know when to come back on to record something?
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post #4059 of 5196 Old 03-09-2009, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by horowitzadam View Post

Interesting. I don't have my Hauppauge box yet. When you shut it off to watch live TV via HDMI, does it know when to come back on to record something?

I usually record stuff to my DVR (8300HD) first, and then play it back and transfer it to the PC, via the Hauppauge box. Sometimes, I record directly, as I watch TV. In both cases, I turn HD PVR 1212 on manually, before I start recording. Otherwise, I keep it off, and watch TV through HDMI. I guess my point is that, for timer recordings, I use the SA DVR, and transfer those recordings to my PC later.
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post #4060 of 5196 Old 03-10-2009, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bakerja View Post

Yahoo...that's what I was waiting for. Tax and all $180.25. unfortunately the estimated delivery date is 3/26/2009.

Got mine yesterday. It appears that the Dell delivery date is a worse case thing. Can't wait to get it hooked up.

Has anyone experimented with these files and TIVO streaming? I've been playing with "Streambaby" for TIVO and am hoping that the HD PVR files will stream through without recoding. If so, this is going to be a GREAT investment.
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post #4061 of 5196 Old 03-10-2009, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DM2006RI View Post

I've been trying to burn an AVCHD disc with TotalMedia Extreme, but right when I get to the actual "Burn" part, the program crashes, I get a Dr Watson warning and it freezes up.

Any help would be appreciated, am I missing a codec or something?




See post 508 in this thread......fixed the same problem for me.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...055232&page=17
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post #4062 of 5196 Old 03-11-2009, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bakerja View Post

Got mine yesterday...Has anyone experimented with these files and TIVO streaming?

Got a file to successfully stream to PS3 by merely changing the file extension to .mp4. Hoping to eventually get it to the TIVO. Advise in the TIVO forum suggesting remuxing to mp4 container. I have no experience in that but am looking in to it now. Any tips would be appreciated.
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post #4063 of 5196 Old 03-11-2009, 04:50 PM
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Hello: I just got this yesterday from the recent Dell deal. Its a D2 model, has vents on the bottom.

I want to use this to archive recordings from my DirecTV HR20. For now, I have installed the new driver, installed the ArcSoft software on a C2Duo XpPro 32 bit laptop , done some initial recording tests and things seem fine. I am keeping the PVR on all the time. Some questions I have ( I have read up a bit on this forum, and also read arogan's blog):

a)Last night I setup a recording using the Arcsoft software to record a 3+ hour program. I checked after approx. 30 minutes or so, and saw that the Xp had locked the user. I logged in, and saw that the Arcsoft Preview window was still showing the program to be recorded, and the record light on the PVR was on, but I didnt see the file on the disk grow any. I left it for the night, and in the morning today checked that while the PVR was still streaming fine, the file recording was only approx. 30 minutes long. I know the PC is not supposed to sleep during the recording. Is that what happened in this case? I will try this again tonight?

b)My RPTV is 6+ years old and has component video inputs. So I am using the component out of the DirecTV HR20, and passing that through the PVR. But instead I am thinking of concurrently using both the HDMI out, and the component video outs on the HR20, and sending one directly to the TV, and feeding the other into the 1212 PVR. This way my TV watching experience via DirecTV will not be impacted by the 1212 PVR in anyway ( as I am only planning to use the 1212 to archive). So is there an easy way to go from HDMI->component. I have found this at monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

and know that hdmi->dvi cables/adapters exist. Would this combination work?
I also saw the HDFury2, but don't really understand what that gives me if the above works?

c)Is there a better standalone virtual remote application that can let me control the HR20 so I have it go to list of recordings, and pick a certain recording etc? As I said in my case, because I am using this as an archive, it would be nice to be able to do that.

Thanks in advance
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post #4064 of 5196 Old 03-11-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:

Fom their knowledgebase:

"Question: Will this cable allow me to connect my Component source device (DVD, Cable Box, etc) to my DVI computer monitor?
Will this cable allow me to connect my DVI source (computer) to my televisions Component input?
Answer: No."

So it doesn't work for our kind of gear in either direction. I don't get why they even make this cord or who would use it, frankly.

Conversion from A to D or D to A always needs some electronics in action, as far as I can tell, like the HDFury, for example. Component video is analog, HDMI and its soundless cousin DVI you'd have are both digital. Just a wire won't convert it, sorry.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4065 of 5196 Old 03-11-2009, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SHS View Post

This is a Sigma 8654 based box.

Hi SHS are you certain or is that information from the German web sites?

Martin
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post #4066 of 5196 Old 03-11-2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

Fom their knowledgebase:

"Question: Will this cable allow me to connect my Component source device (DVD, Cable Box, etc) to my DVI computer monitor?
Will this cable allow me to connect my DVI source (computer) to my televisions Component input?
Answer: No."

So it doesn't work for our kind of gear in either direction. I don't get why they even make this cord or who would use it, frankly.

The linked monoprice page lists an example use: "This cable is primarily used for connecting video projectors with Component-in capability through it's DVI-I port. It can only function with a DVI port that is either able to recieve or transmit Component signals (Y, Pr, Pb)."

Quote:
Conversion from A to D or D to A always needs some electronics in action, as far as I can tell, like the HDFury, for example. Component video is analog, HDMI and its soundless cousin DVI are both digital. Just a wire won't do it, sorry.

Wrong. The DVI-A specification supports only analog signals, and the DVI-I specification includes both analog and digital signal capability via the same connector. (You are correct that HDMI is digital-only, but it's wrong to say "DVI is digital".)

Still, the answer to rajeshh is the same ("No"), and can also be found from the same monoprice website page he posted:
Quote:
This cable will not convert digital signals to analog or visa versa.

Just because you can plug some cables together and end up with a Frankencable with an HDMI plug on one end and a component video pigtail on the other doesn't mean you've got an HDMI-to-component video converter in your hand...
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post #4067 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mvallevand View Post

Hi SHS are you certain or is that information from the German web sites?

Martin

I got my information from Hauppauge
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post #4068 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jruhnke View Post

Wrong. The DVI-A specification supports only analog signals, and the DVI-I specification includes both analog and digital signal capability via the same connector. (You are correct that HDMI is digital-only, but it's wrong to say "DVI is digital".)


It must keep you up at nights knowing that the 'D' in 'DVI' stands for "digital", huh?

I was speaking in regards to his situation, dude, relax. His proposed HDMI to DVI conversion inorder to attempt to use that monoprice cord would very much be a digital signal.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4069 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jruhnke View Post

The linked monoprice page lists an example use: "This cable is primarily used for connecting video projectors with Component-in capability through it's DVI-I port.

For somebody that doesnt have such an equipment, I don't even know what that means. Why would one connect a DVI-port on a projector to its own component video input if that's what it means.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jruhnke View Post

Just because you can plug some cables together and end up with a Frankencable with an HDMI plug on one end and a component video pigtail on the other doesn't mean you've got an HDMI-to-component video converter in your hand...

Take it easy! The HDFury2 looks very similar to your description above but claims to do the same, doesn't it?
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post #4070 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 01:29 PM
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DVI-I integrates the digital and analog signals together in one connector. The four pins around the center "spade" connector are the analog signal pins, R-G-B-Sync. This cable utilizes those pins for an analog component signal to input analog RGBS or YPbPr into, as referenced, a display/projector that may have a DVI-I input with such a capability.

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post #4071 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 01:34 PM
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I'm a little lost on the component/hdmi discussion, what is the purpose and what are we trying to accomplish, the tv only has component inputs, but the HTPC only has hdmi? Could we get the details of what equipment is involved and what inputs/outputs all the equipment has?
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post #4072 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeshh View Post

The HDFury2 looks very similar to your description above but claims to do the same, doesn't it?

The HDFury2 would work but a less expensive and easier solution to your problem of the HR20 only having one set of component outputs is multiply the singular output with a "splitter", well actually it is called a distribution amplifier. I saw one at Radio Shack that had one in and four outs (even though you really only need two outs for your situation) for a mere $49.95.

There is a very slight chance it may have an issue (like not passing all resolutions, perhaps, or having an insufficient bandwidth to carry all resolutions without slightly softening the image) in which case you'd need to find a better quality ditribution amp from a company like Gefen or Audio Authority, for example, but I still think you'll be saving money instead of getting the HDFury2.

According to this it will carry all resolutions and the bandwidth is 60 MHz which should cover your needs (albeit just barely) for even the highest resolutions. Keep the receipt, just in case.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4073 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

The HDFury2 would work but a less expensive and easier solution to your problem of the HR20 only having one set of component outputs is multiply the singular output with a "splitter", well actually it is called a distribution amplifier. I saw one at Radio Shack that had one in and four outs (even though you really only need two outs for your situation) for a mere $49.95.

There is a very slight chance it may have an issue (like not passing all resolutions, perhaps, or having an insufficient bandwidth to carry all resolutions without slightly softening the image) in which case you'd need to find a better quality ditribution amp from a company like Gefen or Audio Authority, for example, but I still think you'll be saving money instead of getting the HDFury2.

According to this it will carry all resolutions and the bandwidth is 60 MHz which should cover your needs (albeit just barely) for even the highest resolutions. Keep the receipt, just in case.

What is the problem with using the pass through of the HDPVR unit?
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post #4074 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:32 PM
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What is the problem with using the pass through of the HDPVR unit?

You have to leave it turned on constantly for the pass-through to work. I know at least that's why I don't use the pass through on mine as I'm uncomfortable with how hot it gets; he may have other reasons though.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4075 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

You have to leave it turned on constantly for the pass-through to work. I know at least that's why I don't use the pass through on mine as I'm uncomfortable with how hot it gets; he may have other reasons though.

I guess, mine is on 24x7, for 6 or 7 months straight, I've even got one of the C2 earlier models, it's slightly warm, but not much else, funny it was pretty warm when I first got the unit, but now it's lukewarm at best. They probably get warmer when recording, but I don't think they really use much if any power when just passing through. That's been my experience.
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post #4076 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:51 PM
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It's not just a heat thing, actually. Some people just don't feel comfortable leaving appliances they hardly use turned on 24/7. I don't care if it only uses a few pennies of electricity per month, that's not the issue.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4077 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

It's not just a heat thing, actually. Some people just don't feel comfortable leaving appliances they hardly use turned on 24/7. I don't care if it only uses a few pennies of electricity per month, that's not the issue.

But, you recommended a powered splitter?
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post #4078 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 10:22 PM
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He could use a passive A/B switch box (in "reverse", one in, A or B out) if he prefers; they cost even less and are just as effective, assuming he doesn't need to watch the signal his HD PVR is archiving simultaneously on his big screen. [I know I don't, at least, I'm looking at my preview screen of my computer to verify the signal coming in is good.] Are you trying to play "gotcha" because I recommended a (very low) powered accessory? Give it a break. The guy wants a secondary component video out on his sat box and I'm just trying to help him out.

If you feel comfortable leaving all your toys powered up and turned on 24/7, go right ahead. Some of us don't feel that way.

If he were to go the Radio Shack distribution box way he'd be consuming 80% less electricity from a box designed to run 24/7 from the get go, generating much less heat, have two extra outputs for possible expansion, and if he ever does burn it out from the 8760 hours of use/year he has to replace a $49 product, not a $249 product.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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post #4079 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

If you feel comfortable leaving all your toys powered up and turned on 24/7, go right ahead. Some of us don't feel that way.

How many devices do really turn off these days, when you press a "power off" button"? Quite often it's just some kind of standby mode. Essentially everything that can be turned on via a remote control isn't really switched off. OK, the hdpvr cannot be switched-on via remote (which is an issue of its own), but what's really difference, whether the blue light is on or off? It definetly doesn't get hot this way, it only gets warm/hot, when you actually record something.
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post #4080 of 5196 Old 03-12-2009, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rico66 View Post

How many devices do really turn off these days, when you press a "power off" button"? Quite often it's just some kind of standby mode. Essentially everything that can be turned on via a remote control isn't really switched off. OK, the hdpvr cannot be switched-on via remote (which is an issue of its own), but what's really difference, whether the blue light is on or off?

Feel the top with your hand (and also the AC power transformer box, AKA "wall wart":

Recording a signal: hot
On but not recording: warm
Off but plugged in: dead cold.

The heat represents both power consumption and whether the circuits are active or dead.

What I find really annoying is that I own another device with HD component video pass through that works even when unplugged from the AC so I know Hauppaugge could have done this if they set their mind to it.

In A/V reproduction accuracy, there is no concept of "accounting for taste". We don't "pick" the level of bass any more than we get to pick the ending of a play. High fidelity is an unbiased, neutral, exact copy (or "reproduction") of the original source's tonal balance, timing, dynamics, etc..

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