Assassin's Simple/Beginner HTPC Buying Guide - Page 205 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

Forum Jump: 
 15Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #6121 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 11:50 AM
Senior Member
 
efotonik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 208
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by velillen View Post

Just comes down to features really. most of those are the same basic specs. IE supports DDR3 XXX, Supports CPU's XXX.

Its more the "extras" that differ. For instance those two gigabyte boards are pretty close to the same. The UD4 version offers esata for 6.0gbps. But has 1 less PCI express 1.0 slot. Adds in a Coxial spidf output.

Same witht hose asus. The pro just adds more ports really. For an htpc though unless you need those id just save myself the money personally

What matters is just what YOU need. Do you have any sata 6gbps drives? If not than you dont need the pro version. If all you have is a SSD than you just need one sata 6 which is on the cheaper model. if you need say 4 pci slots than you just have to find a board with that. you basically have to just look at what you want and look at the mobo with those features. For me all i cared about was just a basic motherboard with usb 3.0. So i was able to pick mine up for the 100 buck range

Appreciate the reply velillen!

I'm putting everything new into this system so what I currently 'have' isn't coming into play. I plan a SSD for boot and probably 2-2TB drives for storage for starters.

The last computer I built was over a decade ago before SATA, SLI, SSD, etc. While I completely understand only I can know what I 'need', I'm finding it difficult to anticipate my needs as I don't know what some of these things are anymore

I only need PCI-e for graphics cards, correct?
PCI is for say an aftermarket sound card or cable tuner?
  • I would like the option for discrete graphics if the integrated aren't cutting it.
  • I plan to add a cable tuner in a couple of months, need a spot for that.

I'm not asking much of the mobo I don't think, I just don't know which features are nice to have on there. I don't want to miss something useful to save $10, you know?
efotonik is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #6122 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 11:54 AM
Senior Member
 
rwpritchett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SLC
Posts: 385
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by efotonik View Post

I only need PCI-e for graphics cards, correct?

PCI-e is also used for TV tuners, network cards, controller cards, and some sound cards. Most of the 'good' TV tuners use PCI-e so try to have at least one spare PCI-e 1x slot on your board.
rwpritchett is offline  
post #6123 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 12:29 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by efotonik View Post

Appreciate the reply velillen!

I'm putting everything new into this system so what I currently 'have' isn't coming into play. I plan a SSD for boot and probably 2-2TB drives for storage for starters.

The last computer I built was over a decade ago before SATA, SLI, SSD, etc. While I completely understand only I can know what I 'need', I'm finding it difficult to anticipate my needs as I don't know what some of these things are anymore

I only need PCI-e for graphics cards, correct?
PCI is for say an aftermarket sound card or cable tuner?
  • I would like the option for discrete graphics if the integrated aren't cutting it.
  • I plan to add a cable tuner in a couple of months, need a spot for that.

I'm not asking much of the mobo I don't think, I just don't know which features are nice to have on there. I don't want to miss something useful to save $10, you know?

The PCI-e can be used for graphics, wireless card, tuner card, expansion cards, etc.

Even if you don't have any internal card spots open you can add the HD Homerun anywhere on your network. It doesn't even need to be physically attached to your HTPC.

Otherwise it is really impossible for us to tell you which one to get because as you yourself don't know your exact needs its pretty hard for us to tell you what to get.

Usually for my recommendations there is only about $30 between the lower board and the upper tier board. So if you want to spend that $30 or so to have more options than you really need to give you a little more peace of mind its probably worth it.
assassin is offline  
post #6124 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 08:27 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
netarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry for the dense question, it's been a few years (Er, like 7 since I've put together a system.

Just got my components today, dry fitting so far shows no issues. Re: the intel 2100 CPU & stock cooler - didn't come with a packet of thermal goo ... Ok to use without? The cooler looked like it may have a thermal pad (?) preinstalled, is that the case?

Too, if I later add thermal goo, does one still scrape off what's under the cooler, clean with isopropyl and add thin layer goo?
netarc is offline  
post #6125 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 08:32 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by netarc View Post

Sorry for the dense question, it's been a few years (Er, like 7 since I've put together a system.

Just got my components today, dry fitting so far shows no issues. Re: the intel 2100 CPU & stock cooler - didn't come with a packet of thermal goo ... Ok to use without? The cooler looked like it may have a thermal pad (?) preinstalled, is that the case?

Too, if I later add thermal goo, does one still scrape off what's under the cooler, clean with isopropyl and add thin layer goo?

Correct. You will be fine with just using the stock compound. It will "melt" and consolidate into one area once it gets hot.

Alternatively you can scrape it all off and add something like Arctic Silver. Or you can add Arctic Silver to the stock compound.

I have done all three and all work. Intel i3 HTPCs don't get all that hot. Mainly I just use the stock compound and it works well.
assassin is offline  
post #6126 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 08:54 PM
Member
 
ngsm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So, I'm setting up my system using your paid guide.

I also have an ASRock H67M mobo like in your guide. I have a single HD (2TB Samsung), and I do NOT have an optical drive. I followed directions elsewhere on formatting a USB thumb drive to boot from, with Win7 on it.

So, I had selected under the storage options, AHCI... and when I went to boot options all I saw was my samsung. So I tried to boot with the USB in, and it would not work. So I changed the storage options back to IDE, and it picked up with BOOT USB and I installed Win7.

So, have everything setup. I tried to change the storage back to AHCI, and that messed it all up, Windows will not boot.

What do you recommend?

EDIT: So I got back into the BIOS, and changed the storage configuration for the sata back to IDE mode. Now I boot fine, can you please tell me the difference and what I did wrong if possible. Thanks for your help!
ngsm13 is offline  
post #6127 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 08:56 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
netarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thx, Ben ... btw, I ended up using the ISK300-150 after all, even though I ordered/received the inwin 655. Even though the inwin was really nice, I'd already ordered a slim BD, and the lesser width pf the Antec gave it enough pf an edge in my application.
netarc is offline  
post #6128 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by netarc View Post

Thx, Ben ... btw, I ended up using the ISK300-150 after all, even though I ordered/received the inwin 655. Even though the inwin was really nice, I'd already ordered a slim BD, and the lesser width pf the Antec gave it enough pf an edge in my application.

Ben is my business partner.
assassin is offline  
post #6129 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsm13 View Post

So, I'm setting up my system using your paid guide.

I also have an ASRock H67M mobo like in your guide. I have a single HD (2TB Samsung), and I do NOT have an optical drive. I followed directions elsewhere on formatting a USB thumb drive to boot from, with Win7 on it.

So, I had selected under the storage options, AHCI... and when I went to boot options all I saw was my samsung. So I tried to boot with the USB in, and it would not work. So I changed the storage options back to IDE, and it picked up with BOOT USB and I installed Win7.

So, have everything setup. I tried to change the storage back to AHCI, and that messed it all up, Windows will not boot.

What do you recommend?

Did you connect the USB to the USB 3.0 port by chance? If so the USB 3.0 port won't work until you install the drivers (after Windows is installed).

As you have found out you can't freely change from IDE to AHCI after you have installed one or the other.

If you have just started I would try to re-install Windows using the USB 2.0 slot this time and use AHCI.

Otherwise you can use the IDE mode. It should be fine (and is more important if you have an SSD).
assassin is offline  
post #6130 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 09:04 PM
Member
 
ngsm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

Did you connect the USB to the USB 3.0 port by chance? If so the USB 3.0 port won't work until you install the drivers (after Windows is installed).

As you have found out you can't freely change from IDE to AHCI after you have installed one or the other.

If you have just started I would try to re-install Windows using the USB 2.0 slot this time and use AHCI.

Otherwise you can use the IDE mode. It should be fine (and is more important if you have an SSD).

Alright, at first I did have it hooked up to the USB3.0 slot, but then switched it and tried again and it still would not boot from the USB.

I'll try to start from scratch again tomorrow with AHCI, as I do plan on getting an SSD in the future (next 6months)...

So, should the USB drive show up in the BIOS as a boot option? Also, how do I go about doing this again, will it automatically reformat my entire drive and start from scratch if I install Windows again?

Thanks.
ngsm13 is offline  
post #6131 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsm13 View Post

EDIT: So I got back into the BIOS, and changed the storage configuration for the sata back to IDE mode. Now I boot fine, can you please tell me the difference and what I did wrong if possible. Thanks for your help!

Absolutely.

Here is a pretty good in depth comparison of AHCI vs IDE: http://expertester.wordpress.com/200...ark-advantage/

Quote:


These extensive benchmarks clearly show to us, AHCI (NCQ) definitely could improve computer system responsiveness, transfer rate, number of IO per second and the list goes on. Enough to say, it will make your hard disk more efficient (and indirectly reduce it wear and tear).

assassin is offline  
post #6132 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 09:17 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
netarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

Ben is my business partner.

doh! sorry
netarc is offline  
post #6133 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 09:37 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
netarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
BTW, unless I'm mistaken it appears the ISK300 case comes with a slim SATA power cable which looks like it fits right into a slim 5.25" OD, so no LP4/SATA to slim SATA/power adapter is required - might be worth updating the first post to mention that?
netarc is offline  
post #6134 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 09:55 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
ilovejedd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,785
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Liked: 67
Quote:
Originally Posted by netarc View Post

BTW, unless I'm mistaken it appears the ISK300 case comes with a slim SATA power cable which looks like it fits right into a slim 5.25" OD, so no LP4/SATA to slim SATA/power adapter is required - might be worth updating the first post to mention that?

Mine didn't come with one. Maybe a recent development?
ilovejedd is offline  
post #6135 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 11:28 PM
 
lildimsum7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
im curious about the lite-on BD drive. im split between building an HTPC or buying a blu ray player that can play mkvs. only thing holding me back is the video playback quality of an HTPC vs blu-ray player. can an HTPC be a replacement for a standalone bluray player (blu ray quality-wise)?
lildimsum7 is offline  
post #6136 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 11:42 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
netarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
rats ... well, had to give up on the Antec ISK300 case ... the mobo power cable wouldn't reach the power input on the Intel H67 mobo?!? those cables from that 150w power supply are *super* short

Packing up the Antec case, going to see how the inwin bp655 plays out, hopefully better!
netarc is offline  
post #6137 of 15974 Old 06-29-2011, 11:43 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
netarc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
oh, btw the Antec ISK300 case came with these little brown hard-stock paper cards, two of them, ~2.5" x 4" with holes in the corners. No mention in the manual of what these are for, anyone know?
netarc is offline  
post #6138 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 05:50 AM
Member
 
ngsm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

Absolutely.

Here is a pretty good in depth comparison of AHCI vs IDE: http://expertester.wordpress.com/200...ark-advantage/

Thanks!

I notice in the article it states this:
Quote:


Many SATA controllers can enable AHCI either separately or in conjunction with RAID support. Intel recommends choosing RAID mode on their motherboards (which also enables AHCI) rather than the plain AHCI/SATA mode for maximum flexibility, due to the issues caused when the mode is switched once an operating system has already been installed.

Am I able to choose RAID mode, even though right now I won't be using RAID. I've never used a RAID array before, but I have a general understanding of what it is. Within this year, I plan to add an SSD of my OS and another matching 2TB HD... should I select RAID if I plan to use it in the future or will this not work/cause problems?

Thanks!
ngsm13 is offline  
post #6139 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsm13 View Post

Thanks!

I notice in the article it states this:


Am I able to choose RAID mode, even though right now I won't be using RAID. I've never used a RAID array before, but I have a general understanding of what it is. Within this year, I plan to add an SSD of my OS and another matching 2TB HD... should I select RAID if I plan to use it in the future or will this not work/cause problems?

Thanks!

There is no real need to use RAID. Just choose AHCI and connect your SSD and 2TB drive in a normal fashion.
assassin is offline  
post #6140 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 06:18 AM
Member
 
ngsm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

There is no real need to use RAID. Just choose AHCI and connect your SSD and 2TB drive in a normal fashion.

Thanks.

After some research, I may be able to do this to fix my problem without having to start over!

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976
ngsm13 is offline  
post #6141 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 06:39 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
CountryBumkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,176
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsm13 View Post

So, I'm setting up my system using your paid guide.

I also have an ASRock H67M mobo like in your guide. I have a single HD (2TB Samsung), and I do NOT have an optical drive. I followed directions elsewhere on formatting a USB thumb drive to boot from, with Win7 on it.

So, I had selected under the storage options, AHCI... and when I went to boot options all I saw was my samsung. So I tried to boot with the USB in, and it would not work. So I changed the storage options back to IDE, and it picked up with BOOT USB and I installed Win7.

So, have everything setup. I tried to change the storage back to AHCI, and that messed it all up, Windows will not boot.

What do you recommend?

EDIT: So I got back into the BIOS, and changed the storage configuration for the sata back to IDE mode. Now I boot fine, can you please tell me the difference and what I did wrong if possible. Thanks for your help!

When you say the computer would not boot with the USB in, do you mean the computer will not load the OS from the USB drive, or that you just get a blank screen?
The normal way to load the OS from a USB drive is to setup your BIOS with the hard drive as your first boot device (in AHCI), plug the USB in, then when the machine starts to post, hit F12 to give you boot options. You will see "Hard Drive" with a "plus" in front of it, then click on that to open and show your hard drive(s) and USB drive. Select the USB drive and you're on your way.
Sorry if I misundertaood your problem.
CountryBumkin is offline  
post #6142 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 07:03 AM
Member
 
ngsm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryBumkin View Post

When you say the computer would not boot with the USB in, do you mean the computer will not load the OS from the USB drive, or that you just get a blank screen?
The normal way to load the OS from a USB drive is to setup your BIOS with the hard drive as your first boot device (in AHCI), plug the USB in, then when the machine starts to post, hit F12 to give you boot options. You will see "Hard Drive" with a "plus" in front of it, then click on that to open and show your hard drive(s) and USB drive. Select the USB drive and you're on your way.
Sorry if I misundertaood your problem.

I'm pretty sure I tried hitting the function key to go to boot options, and it came up to a black screen that said something like select valid boot disk or something, basically it wasn't detecting the USB as a boot option.

I used this if it matters:
http://www.intowindows.com/how-to-in...working-guide/

Then mounted the Win7 x64 ISO using Virtual Drive, and copied all the files over to the USB flash drive. Maybe the flash drive is just a POS, I may just steal an optical drive from an old desktop, burn the win7 ISO to a DVD, and try it from there...
ngsm13 is offline  
post #6143 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 07:46 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
CountryBumkin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,176
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsm13 View Post

I'm pretty sure I tried hitting the function key to go to boot options, and it came up to a black screen that said something like select valid boot disk or something, basically it wasn't detecting the USB as a boot option.

When you see the "select (or insert) valid boot disk" that means you missed the F12 boot option selection, and your copmputer went on to loading the OS (which it couldn't find). I usually keep "tapping" the F12 key (or DEL key if I want to get into the BIOS) once I power on until the proper screen appears.

In case you didn't know, Microsoft has a program that will copy the OS (ISO) onto a USB and do the formatting/setup of the USB thumb drive for you. You can't just drag the ISO onto the USB (it has to be setup as a boot disk). The link you included also works but it's a lot harder than using the Windows USB app.
CountryBumkin is offline  
post #6144 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 07:55 AM
Member
 
ngsm13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 180
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryBumkin View Post

When you see the "select (or insert) valid boot disk" that means you missed the F12 boot option selection, and your copmputer went on to loading the OS (which it couldn't find). I usually keep "tapping" the F12 key (or DEL key if I want to get into the BIOS) once I power on until the proper screen appears.

In case you didn't know, Microsoft has a program that will copy the OS (ISO) onto a USB and do the formatting/setup of the USB thumb drive for you. You can't just drag the ISO onto the USB (it has to be setup as a boot disk). The link you included also works but it's a lot harder than using the Windows USB app.

Alright, I'll try again. What is the program? I'll reformat my USB drive and try that. Thanks.
ngsm13 is offline  
post #6145 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 08:44 AM
Senior Member
 
efotonik's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 208
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwpritchett View Post

PCI-e is also used for TV tuners, network cards, controller cards, and some sound cards. Most of the 'good' TV tuners use PCI-e so try to have at least one spare PCI-e 1x slot on your board.

Thanks for the explanation of where most things fit, very useful!
Are the PCI-e 1x the shorter (about 1in long) slots?

Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

The PCI-e can be used for graphics, wireless card, tuner card, expansion cards, etc.

Even if you don't have any internal card spots open you can add the HD Homerun anywhere on your network. It doesn't even need to be physically attached to your HTPC.

Otherwise it is really impossible for us to tell you which one to get because as you yourself don't know your exact needs its pretty hard for us to tell you what to get.

Usually for my recommendations there is only about $30 between the lower board and the upper tier board. So if you want to spend that $30 or so to have more options than you really need to give you a little more peace of mind its probably worth it.

I appreciate your patience assassin, I realize it's probably a cake-walk to you doing this so frequently but as I said it's been a while for me and it's a different world of hardware now!

I think I will err on the safer side and spend a tad more to have the future-able features as long as it's a $20-40 difference, more than that I'd have to plan it out. Thanks again!
efotonik is offline  
post #6146 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 09:11 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Some pretty decent deals at newegg today: http://promotions.newegg.com/neemail...x-_-E0-_-click
assassin is offline  
post #6147 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 09:47 AM
Member
 
SLAYER6669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 184
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by ngsm13 View Post

Thanks.

After some research, I may be able to do this to fix my problem without having to start over!

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976

I originally installed Windows 7 with IDE enabled and then later did that regedit then changed the BIOS to AHCI and it seems to work fine.
SLAYER6669 is offline  
post #6148 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 10:11 AM
Senior Member
 
rwpritchett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SLC
Posts: 385
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by netarc View Post

rats ... well, had to give up on the Antec ISK300 case ... the mobo power cable wouldn't reach the power input on the Intel H67 mobo?!? those cables from that 150w power supply are *super* short

Packing up the Antec case, going to see how the inwin bp655 plays out, hopefully better!

You can purchase an extension cable if you still want to go with the Antec:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...CE&PageSize=20
rwpritchett is offline  
post #6149 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 10:13 AM
Senior Member
 
rwpritchett's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SLC
Posts: 385
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by efotonik View Post

Thanks for the explanation of where most things fit, very useful!
Are the PCI-e 1x the shorter (about 1in long) slots?

PCIe-1x is the short 1" version. You can plug a 1x card into the larger 4x, 8x, or 16x slots and it will still work.
rwpritchett is offline  
post #6150 of 15974 Old 06-30-2011, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Addicted Member
 
assassin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 51 Post(s)
Liked: 241
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLAYER6669 View Post

I originally installed Windows 7 with IDE enabled and then later did that regedit then changed the BIOS to AHCI and it seems to work fine.

You can definitely do this.

However if you are in the early stages of setting up your HTPC it could be safer to just re-do the install instead of changing the registry settings. If you have already spent many hours getting things setup then the registry edit may be worth the potential risk.
assassin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Home Theater Computers

Tags
Rosewill Windows Vista Certified Media Center Infrared Remote Control Rrc 126 , New Logitech Harmony One Keypad Touch Screen Advanced Universal Remote Control Infrared Display Lcd

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off