mini HTPC build (Habey EMC-800B, i3-2100T, SSD, etc.) - KEEPING IT SIMPLE - Page 2 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 364 Old 06-04-2011, 08:45 AM
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Well I finally got around to building my htpc.

I can't get this thing to power on. I had no trouble whatsoever putting together the one for work, which uses pretty much the same setup. I get a quick cpu fan movement, a flash of light on the front button, then nothing. I have done the following:

Taped the stand offs on the case with electrical tape.
Pulled out the memory.
Pulled out the hard drive.
Pulled out the cpu.
Checked 100 times that the 24 pin + other 4 pin connector is plugged in.
Taped standoffs below power supply.

The power supply has a steady blue light, and the motherboard has a steady green light. What am I missing here?

Thanks
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post #32 of 364 Old 06-05-2011, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Can't say, though I've seen a couple of Intel motherboards (DH55TC) come through my office recently that were DOA with the symtoms you describe. Fan spins for a moment, then nothing. Replacement motherboard powered right up.

We contacted Intel and were told to RMA the boards. Not good, hoping this won't become a trend.

You might check to be sure the CPU you're using is compatible with your motherboard. Perhaps a BIOS upgrade is needed.
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post #33 of 364 Old 06-06-2011, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Boulanger View Post
Can't say, though I've seen a couple of Intel motherboards (DH55TC) come through my office recently that were DOA with the symtoms you describe. Fan spins for a moment, then nothing. Replacement motherboard powered right up.

We contacted Intel and were told to RMA the boards. Not good, hoping this won't become a trend.

You might check to be sure the CPU you're using is compatible with your motherboard. Perhaps a BIOS upgrade is needed.
Thanks for the reply,

Turned out to be the power supply. Brought the htpc to work today, plugged in a different one and it booted right away.

Thanks
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post #34 of 364 Old 06-07-2011, 05:46 PM
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I've got an Atom 330 board that has the same symptoms. Tried different power supplies, no luck. Too old to RMA.

Mike, what's the final decision on the case fan? Can't decipher if your using one or not and if so, is it exhaust or intake?

Thanks!
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post #35 of 364 Old 06-07-2011, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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I ended up going with a single exhaust fan in my build.

Hope to build my 2nd box (similar components) tomorrow.
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post #36 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 05:40 AM - Thread Starter
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I finished my new master bedroom HTPC build last night. Here is the component list I went with:

Habey EMC-800B Mini-ITX Chassis
Intel DH67CFB3 Mini-ITX Motherboard
Intel 2.5 GHz i3-2100T Processor
Kingston KVR1333D3N9K2/8G 2x4GB DDR3 1333
Kingston SSDNow V+ SVP100S2/96G 96GB SSD
Samsung SN-S083F/BEBE Slim DVD-RW Drive
Evercool EC5010M12CA 50mm x 10mm Case Fan
Internal IR Receiver w/CIR Cable

I went with the Kingston 96GB because there was a good rebate going on and the extra capacity might be helpful in the master bedroom where my wife is more likely to make local recordings (though I'm going to advise against it!). Performance is still real good compared to a 7200rpm hard disk, but doesn't seem as snappy as the Crucial in my kitchen build (just based on casual observation). In any case, it's certainly more than fine (as long as it's reliable).

My kitchen HTPC sits in a cabinet, so an external IR receiver is pretty much unavoidable, but this build is sitting on top of our bureau. I decided to order and mount an internal IR receiver, since the Intel motherboard I'm using supports one, to try and get rid of our bulky external USB IR receiver.

I went with this receiver:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...E:L:OC:US:1123
(search eBay for "CIR IR Receiver MCE" and you should find it)

I don't plan on using the included remote, but for the price I can't complain. It's hard to explain, but the IR receiver itself doesn't really protrude much from the board which made me nervous about reliability. I drilled a hole in my Habey and mounted the receiver at an angle (to get the IR receiver into the hole as much as possible) with double-sided adhesive. I added some hot glue for added security. I was pleasantly surprised! Even though the Habey case metal is fairly thick, making the IR receiver is recessed quite a bit, IR reception is flawless from even heavy angles. It works at least as well as the external receiver!

Noise is more of an issue on this build since it is in our bedroom and sitting right on the bureau so I left the BIOS fan controls to start at 20/30% (default) and it's pretty much silent. Heat is less of a concern because it's not in a cabinet. Even at these fan levels temperatures were close to my kitchen build, which I'm fine with.

I do have to say however that the blue LED is bright for a bedroom and might bother some. Doesn't really bother me or my wife (we can sleep through anything), but I might look at trying to dim it somehow or perhaps even disconnect it completely.

Attached is a pic of my new build - you can see the IR receiver to the bottom left of the DVD drive.
LL
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post #37 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 11:31 AM
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I just finished my build to replace a Mac Mini. I seem to have significantly higher temperatures than you (as reported by the Intel Desktop Utilities). I was getting ~60 degrees for the CPU with the case top on and high hard drive temperatures so I have left the top off until I get a case fan. It has been pretty hot outside and in the house but this was with the CPU mostly at idle so I hope a case fan will help.

By the way, as you said they do supply a slotted CD bay cover that is white plastic! I guess they were going for the Nike look but it doesn't look very good. I need to find a solid black cover...
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post #38 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Are you using the same motherboard as me? If so, be sure to update to the latest BIOS and check the fan speed and CPU temp settings. By default if the CPU isn't running real hot the fan will stay at a pretty low speed (20% I believe). In the BIOS you can up your minimum fan speed a bit and set your processor temp goal down.

Intel doesn't seem to be overly concerned about 70 degree CPU temps by default with this motherboard.
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post #39 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 11:58 AM
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I do have the same motherboard and the first thing I did was update to the latest firmware (0122). I can't believe that they shipped it with firmware that causes the CPU fan to run at full speed all the time!

In any case, I'm not sure if the CPU fan will ever speed up by default since even at ~60 degrees it runs at the same slow speed. I did try to bump up the minimum speed in the BIOS to 50% and it did run faster but didn't really do anything for the temperatures (in fact, almost seemed to make it worse)?
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post #40 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I have found that it's surprisingly difficult to get the temps up OR down using additional fans, different configurations, etc. on this build. I guess it pretty much is what it is. I did see a small drop when bringing the fans up to 50-60% (both CPU and exhaust).

You can also set the target CPU temp (I think defaulted at 85) so the system will spin the fans up if the processor gets too hot for your liking.

Are you using an SSD?
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post #41 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Boulanger View Post

Are you using an SSD?

I'm using a standard 2.5" hard drive and its temperature is what concerns me the most as it is close to 50 degress which is in the "yellow" zone of the Desktop Utilities.
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post #42 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Can you provide a link for the Desktop Utilies you downloaded?
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post #43 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 12:50 PM
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http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...es%22&lang=eng

I think it also might be on the motherboard CD.
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post #44 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Boulanger View Post

I do have to say however that the blue LED is bright for a bedroom and might bother some. Doesn't really bother me or my wife (we can sleep through anything), but I might look at trying to dim it somehow or perhaps even disconnect it completely.

This seems to be the new design standard. Not sure who decided mini-ITX cases should come with an airplane landing light for a power indicator.

I had similar problems with a few different cases. In once circumstance that was only slightly too bright I pulled apart the front panel and colored the front of the LED with a Sharpie. For another more significant problem I put a small peice of electrical tape directly on top of the LED so only a small portion of the light emmited through the power button.
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post #45 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 03:31 PM
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What voltage are you running the case fan at? Generally 50mm are obnoxious and I couldn't have one anywhere near my bedroom. I'm surprised yours is not bothersome. Maybe it's just going really slow at 5v and that's why you aren't hearing it?

There is no difference in HDMI cables. If you can see the picture without visible dropouts or sparklies, the cable is working at 100%. No other cable will display a better version of that picture. You're simply wrong if you think there is a better digital cable than one that is already working. (Oh, and plasma didn't die because of logistics problems, nor does OLED ship in big boxes because it comes from Korea.)
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post #46 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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What voltage are you running the case fan at? Generally 50mm are obnoxious and I couldn't have one anywhere near my bedroom. I'm surprised yours is not bothersome. Maybe it's just going really slow at 5v and that's why you aren't hearing it?
It's hooked to the motherboard controller and very quiet. I have the motherboard set to run it at 30% for my bedroom HTPC unless there's a temp issue (which I don't think there would be under normal use).

Even at full stream there's no annoying whine - though you can definitely hear it. It's probably the quietest 50mm fan I've owned, though can't say I've owned too many.
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post #47 of 364 Old 06-09-2011, 10:20 PM
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I very much doubt I could tolerate what you can in this regard, which has me leaning toward getting the Apex MI-008 and a picoPSU. It's hard to know, but expensive to test, whereas with the Apex, I can just buy the parts, run a 120mm fan at 5v and know it's going to be effectively inaudible.

There is no difference in HDMI cables. If you can see the picture without visible dropouts or sparklies, the cable is working at 100%. No other cable will display a better version of that picture. You're simply wrong if you think there is a better digital cable than one that is already working. (Oh, and plasma didn't die because of logistics problems, nor does OLED ship in big boxes because it comes from Korea.)
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post #48 of 364 Old 06-13-2011, 04:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I very much doubt I could tolerate what you can in this regard, which has me leaning toward getting the Apex MI-008 and a picoPSU. It's hard to know, but expensive to test, whereas with the Apex, I can just buy the parts, run a 120mm fan at 5v and know it's going to be effectively inaudible.

Who knows, but it really is very silent at those fan levels and an SSD installed. I can't hear it unless I put my ear right near it, certainly not from my bed.


Quote:
I just finished my build to replace a Mac Mini. I seem to have significantly higher temperatures than you (as reported by the Intel Desktop Utilities). I was getting ~60 degrees for the CPU with the case top on and high hard drive temperatures so I have left the top off until I get a case fan. It has been pretty hot outside and in the house but this was with the CPU mostly at idle so I hope a case fan will help.

I installed the Desktop Utilities and oddly enough the processor temp its reporting is lower than the BIOS. After some playback the software was reporting:

Processor: 41
PCH: 56
Memory DIMM: 36
VR: 40

Processor Fan: 3013RPM
Chassis Outlet Fan: 5273 RPM

All green. No entry for hard drive temp that I could see.

At these fan levels the system does put out some noise, but because they are in a kitchen cabinet the noise is not very noticeable to me. I would not run those fan levels in my bedroom however.

I rebooted and went right into the BIOS and noticed the processor temp was listed at about 54 degrees there.
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post #49 of 364 Old 06-13-2011, 12:19 PM
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i am very impressed with low power consumption. I really need to get that processor and replace my e8400/g35 htpc. i will be keeping this thread in my favorites to guide me in the future. thank you for all the great info guys
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post #50 of 364 Old 06-13-2011, 02:30 PM
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Prolimatech Samuel 17 does not fit in that case?

http://www.prolimatech.com/en/produc...id=422#showtab

Heatsink Dimension (L)121.2mm X (W)120mmX (H)45mm

The latest intel MB regulate the rpm of the fans too high, too much voltage.

Visit my blog on HTPC
Blog H T P C
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post #51 of 364 Old 06-13-2011, 06:02 PM
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So I got my replacement power supply, finally got my unit up and running.

I was surprised to see your comments earlier on the fan noise. From the get go I was impressed with the lack of noise, probably because I was expecting it to be loud. I guess that mobo update really did you good!

I have to check temps and power usage and I will report back. I just bought another kill-a-watt unit.

One bit of upsetting news, I was reading recently that the i3 2100t and my cpu, the basically watered down version, the Pentium G620t, can be seen as a waste of many. You can underclock the i3 2100 and the Pentium G620, save yourself a few bucks and get the same results. Oh well.

How do you like your internal IR receiver? Your custom install there looks real nice, I drilled a bigger hole and you can see more silver metal...I went with the internal receiver that HDplex offers. It is hard to setup for use with media center, but does offer the ability to turn off your HTPC by remote AND turn it on from full power off, which is cool.
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post #52 of 364 Old 06-14-2011, 05:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Prolimatech Samuel 17 does not fit in that case?
I'm not certain, but there is not very much clearance over the stock i3-2100t cooler in my Habey chassis. I have read that the i3-2100 stock cooler will not fit. I could be wrong, but I thought I read somewhere that the stock i3-2100t cooler was ~30mm high.


Quote:
I was surprised to see your comments earlier on the fan noise. From the get go I was impressed with the lack of noise, probably because I was expecting it to be loud. I guess that mobo update really did you good!
Huge improvement. Not sure how I missed that the first time around.


Quote:
One bit of upsetting news, I was reading recently that the i3 2100t and my cpu, the basically watered down version, the Pentium G620t, can be seen as a waste of many. You can underclock the i3 2100 and the Pentium G620, save yourself a few bucks and get the same results. Oh well.
I read that as well. If accurate, it's still not a waste for me because I need the low profile i3-2100t cooler for the Habey anyway.


Quote:
How do you like your internal IR receiver? Your custom install there looks real nice, I drilled a bigger hole and you can see more silver metal...
Absolutely perfect so far. I do wish the IR receiver was flush with the case, but it's really a non-issue as it's really not noticeable.


Quote:
I went with the internal receiver that HDplex offers. It is hard to setup for use with media center, but does offer the ability to turn off your HTPC by remote AND turn it on from full power off, which is cool.
With these builds I've decided to leave them up and running 24/7, but that receiver sounds cool. Will have to check that out!
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post #53 of 364 Old 06-19-2011, 09:38 PM
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Wow, first post and I joined 4 years ago. A few questions on my end here.

First, great HTPC build, it's the EXACT build that I have been planning for an HTPC for quite some time now. I've seen the same parts listed (case, cpu, small SSD, etc) on numerous sites and forums for HTPC builds, so, this must be the "standard" HTPC build for 2011, hahaha!

Anyway, on to my questions:
1. Do you think that a Scythe Big Shuriken would fit in this case? Let's say that one does not use an optical disk drive.

2. How about cutting an exhaust hole in the top and adding a slim 120/140mm/180mm fan?

3. From your experiences with different cooling variations with this build, just how loud is the overall setup at its loudest, 20dB? 30? Fans included, etc.

4. What's the performance limit of this build? What such tasks cause this type of build to stutter, or "hit a brick wall?"

Thank you all, and happy HTPC planning and building!

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post #54 of 364 Old 06-20-2011, 03:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow, first post and I joined 4 years ago. A few questions on my end here.

First, great HTPC build, it's the EXACT build that I have been planning for an HTPC for quite some time now. I've seen the same parts listed (case, cpu, small SSD, etc) on numerous sites and forums for HTPC builds, so, this must be the "standard" HTPC build for 2011, hahaha!

Anyway, on to my questions:
1. Do you think that a Scythe Big Shuriken would fit in this case? Let's say that one does not use an optical disk drive.

Not sure, but I would say no. I'm not 100%, but I remember reading that the i3-2100t stock cooler is about 30mm high and that barely fits. Unless I'm misremembering, removing the optical drive doesn't free up much of any space because you still need the bracket installed to hold the 2.5" hard drive and the cooling fan. Unless you modify the bracket I guess.

Quote:
2. How about cutting an exhaust hole in the top and adding a slim 120/140mm/180mm fan?

The optical drive blocks a majority of the top. Perhaps you could leave out the optical drive, modify the bracket and then cut an exhaust hole.

Quote:
3. From your experiences with different cooling variations with this build, just how loud is the overall setup at its loudest, 20dB? 30? Fans included, etc.

I don't have anything to measure noise output at the moment, but with the CPU fan and exhaust fan running 100% I'd say it's pretty loud.

Quote:
4. What's the performance limit of this build? What such tasks cause this type of build to stutter, or "hit a brick wall?"

I haven't test anything other that HTPC-related tasks. I haven't found performance lacking at all.
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post #55 of 364 Old 06-20-2011, 10:12 PM
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Excellent, thank you for the great responses, Mike.

I would not use the optical drive at all, thus, I would remove its bracket. This would free up room in the top for more cooling possibilities.

Also, the SSD would be fit somewhere inside, on the side of the case, perhaps next to the motherboard, velcroed to the chassis wall (is there enough room?).

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post #56 of 364 Old 06-21-2011, 06:33 AM - Thread Starter
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The SSD could perhaps sit on the left side but will likely block some ventilation holes on that side. You will likely want to provide some kind of filler for the optical drive, or at least paint the included white filter black. Even with the included filler there will be a slot where someone could accidentally insert a disc unless you somehow block it.

You could also check out the EMC-600B which does not include an optical drive mount but I have no experience with that chassis so not sure what kind of room there is in there.
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post #57 of 364 Old 06-21-2011, 10:47 AM
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Yea the EMC600B will most likely work with the scythe big shuriken.

I have a scythe big shuriken in my main HTPC. It's nice and all, but it is a pain to install. I am surprised that most people don't complain about the install.
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post #58 of 364 Old 06-21-2011, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Boulanger View Post

The SSD could perhaps sit on the left side but will likely block some ventilation holes on that side. You will likely want to provide some kind of filler for the optical drive, or at least paint the included white filter black. Even with the included filler there will be a slot where someone could accidentally insert a disc unless you somehow block it.

You could also check out the EMC-600B which does not include an optical drive mount but I have no experience with that chassis so not sure what kind of room there is in there.

I would use the EMC-800B because it's 3" tall, which would give some more room for the CPU cooler to fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FantaXP7 View Post

Yea the EMC600B will most likely work with the scythe big shuriken.

I have a scythe big shuriken in my main HTPC. It's nice and all, but it is a pain to install. I am surprised that most people don't complain about the install.

What can you tell us about the install?

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post #59 of 364 Old 06-21-2011, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanSmooth View Post

I would use the EMC-800B because it's 3" tall, which would give some more room for the CPU cooler to fit.



What can you tell us about the install?

http://www.proline.pl/pic/scy-big-shuriken_0.jpg

Take a look at that pic. What I didn't realize is how the push pins are well underneath the heatsink. It was a major PITA to get those things to push into the motherboard. You pretty much need to use needle nose pliers to grab then and push down...

I found it incredibly annoying. In fact, I don't think I got it right in the end.

Other than the install, it is a nice cooler.
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post #60 of 364 Old 06-21-2011, 03:10 PM
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I did a Google and Fanta, you're not alone. Most people find it a pain in the ass to install the Big Shuriken for that reason: Humans are not equipped to do this with their normal body parts. It's especially noteworthy when compared to say the Intel i3 stock cooler, which has to be about the easiest HSF to install in the modern era.

There is no difference in HDMI cables. If you can see the picture without visible dropouts or sparklies, the cable is working at 100%. No other cable will display a better version of that picture. You're simply wrong if you think there is a better digital cable than one that is already working. (Oh, and plasma didn't die because of logistics problems, nor does OLED ship in big boxes because it comes from Korea.)
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