HTPC build - not starting out well - little help? - AVS Forum
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Just started a new build, my first in a long time.

I bought Assassin's guides and read them and got to work.

My setup: Origenae M10 case, ASRock z77e-itx board, Core i3 2125, stock intel cpu cooling fan, small case fan (included), OCZ Vertex 4 SSD, adata ram (2x4 GB, box is downstairs but I can get if necessary).

So, I thought I put everything together correctly, but apparently I did not.

When I plug it in and hit power, the front led illuminates and both fans (case and cpu) begin to spin, but that's it. No 'beep', or any other signs of life. Plugging it into a monitor gets me a "no signal" indication from the monitor.

My first thought is that I may not have pushed the CPU into the socket hard enough. I was afraid of doing something stupid, so I didn't push very hard. Could this be a culprit? Any other suggestions of where to start would be appreciated.

I did some searching on the forums but most people got farther than I did to start. And frankly, it is after midnight and I am getting tired so I thought I would ask the experts.

Thanks for any help
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfordb View Post

Just started a new build, my first in a long time.

I bought Assassin's guides and read them and got to work.

My setup: Origenae M10 case, ASRock z77e-itx board, Core i3 2125, stock intel cpu cooling fan, small case fan (included), OCZ Vertex 4 SSD, adata ram (2x4 GB, box is downstairs but I can get if necessary).

So, I thought I put everything together correctly, but apparently I did not.

When I plug it in and hit power, the front led illuminates and both fans (case and cpu) begin to spin, but that's it. No 'beep', or any other signs of life. Plugging it into a monitor gets me a "no signal" indication from the monitor.

My first thought is that I may not have pushed the CPU into the socket hard enough. I was afraid of doing something stupid, so I didn't push very hard. Could this be a culprit? Any other suggestions of where to start would be appreciated.

I did some searching on the forums but most people got farther than I did to start. And frankly, it is after midnight and I am getting tired so I thought I would ask the experts.

Thanks for any help

Do you have the 12V cpu (4 pin or 8 pin) PSU connector attached to the motherboard?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:32 PM
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Also you say the fans begin to spin. Do they stop? If so how long do they spin?
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Old 05-22-2012, 10:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

Do you have the 12V cpu (4 pin or 8 pin) PSU connector attached to the motherboard?

Ah. No I did not. Thank you.

I did that and I get more life. Now the fans turn on for about 10 seconds then off for 4, then the cycle continues.

EDIT: Also, the front LED turns on and off with the fans.
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Old 05-23-2012, 04:54 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfordb View Post

Just started a new build, my first in a long time.

I bought Assassin's guides and read them and got to work.

My setup: Origenae M10 case, ASRock z77e-itx board, Core i3 2125, stock intel cpu cooling fan, small case fan (included), OCZ Vertex 4 SSD, adata ram (2x4 GB, box is downstairs but I can get if necessary).

First step - unplug the SSD .

Quote:


So, I thought I put everything together correctly, but apparently I did not.

Or you have bad part(s).

Quote:


When I plug it in and hit power, the front led illuminates and both fans (case and cpu) begin to spin, but that's it. No 'beep', or any other signs of life.

Likely issues - RAM, MB and CPU.

Quote:


Plugging it into a monitor gets me a "no signal" indication from the monitor.

That fits.

Quote:


My first thought is that I may not have pushed the CPU into the socket hard enough. I was afraid of doing something stupid, so I didn't push very hard.

You shouldn't need to push very hard. That is why they call CPU sockets "Zero Insertion Force".

In many cases the CPU falls into place when correctly oriented and then you can latch it in place with the locking lever. You did raise the locking lever before you tried to insert it, right?

I suggest that you remove the CPU and inspect it for bent pins. Bent CPU pins are far more rare, but still exist. They can often be straightened using a mechanical lead pencil with the lead removed. The bore of the tip of the mechanical lead pencil is the right size to use as a wrench.

I would also check the seating of the RAM chips. Generally you can at least get some life out of a system with 2 RAM chips with only one chip installed at a time.

Your best debugging tool is a similar working PC that you can swap parts into one at a time. I'd start with the new PC's power supply.

A friend who knows what he is doing is a very good thing to have at this time. ;-)
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:55 AM
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The fact that you didn't have the 12v CPU power plugged in tells me that you may have overlooked something simple during the build and that is causing the no post issue. I'm not trying to be ornery, just being honest. The good thing is you very well might be able to get this going with some solid troubleshooting.

The first thing you should do is go through the instructions for every component very carefully to make sure everything is connected as it should be and then check that all power connectors are pushed firmly into the proper plugs. Make sure the stock cooling fan is applied correctly and is making firm contact with the CPU. Follow the advice you have already received to make sure your RAM sticks are inserted firmly and make sure they are in the right slots. See your MB instructions for this. Make sure the graphics card is inserted firmly. Don't just push the RAM sticks and graphics card in -- take them out and reseat them firmly.

If you do all this and you still get no love, turn the power off with the switch on the back of your CPU. Then use the jumper to reset your CMOS. Leave the jumper in the reset position momentarily and then remove the battery that is attached to the motherboard. Press the reset switch on your computer and hold it in for about 10 seconds to remove all voltage from capacitors and then replace the battery. Remove the CMOS jumper and turn the PSU switch back to the ON position. Now try to restart your system.

If these things don't get you going, you will have to remove your motherboard and put it on a non-conductive surface like the cardboard box it came in. Connect nothing but your graphics card, one RAM stick, and your PSU. Make sure your graphics card, RAM stick, and all power connectors are seated firmly. Connect to your monitor and try again. If you still get no POST, remove the RAM stick and insert the other one. Try again.

If you still have no POST, you likely have a bad part and it can be a real pain trying to figure out which part it is. Like the advice you have already received, I always start with an alternate PSU. I hope you have one available in another system -- although I know it won't be much fun having to tear another system apart to get the parts you need. As much of a pain as this is, it's far better than trying to RMA parts one at a time as part of the troubleshooting process. After trying an alternate PSU, try a different RAM stick and a different graphics card.

If you do get to POST when you have the MB on a cardboard box, this may mean something on the back of the MB was making contact with your case somewhere and causing a short. Make sure you have all case/MB standoffs inserted in the right holes and make absolutely sure that you don't have any standoffs screwed into a hole that does not apply to your kind of MB. Your case should have little stamped indicators for your kind of MB, but also do a visual scan to determine that all of the mounting holes have an appropriate standoff inserted in the case and that there are no standoffs in holes where they shouldn't be.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:48 AM
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Also take a few pics and post them. People here might be able to spot something.

On my first build I forgot the CPU power as well. Don't worry, it happens.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:12 AM
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A while back I was working on an old pc and I failed to get the CPU cooler connected to the CPU correctly and it caused similar behavior to what you describe.

Another thing you might check is to insure that the memory is securely seated in its slots.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Fixed!
Pulling the SSD did the job. Thanks.

As soon as I pulled that out, it gave an output to the monitor and I am able to access the BIOS.

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:28 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfordb View Post

Fixed!
Pulling the SSD did the job. Thanks.

As soon as I pulled that out, it gave an output to the monitor and I am able to access the BIOS.

Thanks for all the help.

Frankly, that suggestion was just based on good troubleshooting technique (simplify, simplifiy, simplify) and no special insight at all. I'm totally surprised.

I wonder if formatting it would make a difference?

Is it just plain dead?
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

Frankly, that suggestion was just based on good troubleshooting technique (simplify, simplifiy, simplify) and no special insight at all. I'm totally surprised.

I wonder if formatting it would make a difference?

Is it just plain dead?

I don't know yet. I had to go to work. Glad I kept the receipt!
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Old 05-23-2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

I suggest that you remove the CPU and inspect it for bent pins. Bent CPU pins are far more rare, but still exist. They can often be straightened using a mechanical lead pencil with the lead removed. The bore of the tip of the mechanical lead pencil is the right size to use as a wrench.

Just an FYI but the Intel i3/5/7 series chips do not have CPU pins. The pins are in the socket.

Are AMD chips still with pins?
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:45 PM
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Glad to hear it was something simple, I'm planning a very similar build but tempted to use the mSATA socket on that board as the M10 case is so small and I wanted to minimise clutter. Would be interested in how you get on once the SSD issue is sorted and any photos would be cool.
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by gtmtnbiker View Post

Are AMD chips still with pins?

Yes.

In terms of LFE, size does matter!
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Old 05-26-2012, 02:57 AM
 
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Originally Posted by gtmtnbiker View Post

Just an FYI but the Intel i3/5/7 series chips do not have CPU pins. The pins are in the socket.

So then this picture is fictional?



Or are those just balls with no pins?

Quote:


Are AMD chips still with pins?

Yes.
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Old 05-26-2012, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

So then this picture is fictional?



Or are those just balls with no pins?

Yes, they are just balls. Furthermore it is not a zero insertion force socket, you feel some pressure when lowering the socket locking arm.
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Old 05-26-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

So then this picture is fictional?
Or are those just balls with no pins?

Intel chips haven't had any pins since they moved to a BGA (Ball Grid Array) connection.
The last socket to have CPU pins was Socket478 (Pentium 4).
LGA775 onwards have all been ball contacts.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ailean View Post

Glad to hear it was something simple, I'm planning a very similar build but tempted to use the mSATA socket on that board as the M10 case is so small and I wanted to minimise clutter. Would be interested in how you get on once the SSD issue is sorted and any photos would be cool.

Will try to get pics soon. I want to pretty-up my wiring first though.

The drive ended up working fine. I rechecked all connections, made sure everything was good to go and plugged in tight, and it fired up well. blu-ray burner should go in tonight, and I will set up WMC and MakeMKV (per Assassin's guide) and should be ready to go.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:59 PM
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Be interested in how you get on with CPU cooler noise/clearance and aligning the burner eject. Which drive did you go with? I've ordered my M10 first so I can measure/test some stuff before getting the other bits. From my last mini ITX build I can say cable tiding can be key to airflow/cooling, that case was smaller then the M10 but I got 5-10C off temps with a little bit of effort (although was back in the PATA days with ribbon cables ).
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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I went with the Sony Optiarc 5850H-01, a slim BluRay burner. The eject button seems to line up well. The issue I am having is that it seems the screw holes in the ODD holder force the drive so far forward that the eject button on the case doesn't have any travel. I am not able to eject a disc with the button. I need to find a way to move the drive back slightly.
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Old 05-30-2012, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfordb View Post

I went with the Sony Optiarc 5850H-01, a slim BluRay burner. The eject button seems to line up well. The issue I am having is that it seems the screw holes in the ODD holder force the drive so far forward that the eject button on the case doesn't have any travel. I am not able to eject a disc with the button. I need to find a way to move the drive back slightly.

Was having issues finding that one in stock anywhere in the UK, I may just go for the BD reader version. As to the eject, spotted someone else having the same issue and they just had to loosen the screws a little. I'm guessing adding some washers to the tray mounts should sort it. Still looking at cooling atm while waiting for the case to turn up, what's the connector on the case fan? Just normal motherboard 3 pin? I've got both the normal and low profile intel coolers sitting around but may look at the gelid slim I-plus if they prove too noisy, not much else seems to fit in this case/board combo.
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I will try putting some washers in there to see how it works. I am using the stock intel fans and from my couch I hear nothing.
I ordered the drive from Ebay and so far, so good... I will check the case fan connector tonight and get back to you
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Old 06-09-2012, 12:30 PM
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Made a start on my build now, alas I seem to have a different version of the case with the eject button on the left end of the slot, however it did come with a DVD drive that fits ( could use soft eject with the Sony I guess ).

One issue I'm having is the CPU fan stays on when the box is off. The power led is lit too so something odd going on, this is either shutdown or when turned on at the wall socket. I suspect there's an atx power pin that on/off when it should be the other. frown.gif
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Old 06-09-2012, 02:08 PM
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The Sony BC-5600S BD-ROM has the eject on the left and can be often found on eBay.

 

 

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