HDMI handshake problem with switch - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-29-2012, 03:01 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been having an HDMI problem with my new build of an ECS mobo & Windows 7.

I use a 3-way HDMI switch because the HDTV has only 1 input. If there's any signal dropout the switch defaults to Input #1. The HTPC is connected to Input #3 & every few minutes the switch reverts back to the default #1 input for no obvious reason. One minute your watching the HTPC then all of a sudden your watching Input #1.

Initially I thought it could be the switch or a cable acting up. However I could have a window open such as Internet Explorer & it is not maximized but centered, and the HDMI switch jumps to Input #1. I then reset the switch to Input #3 and the browser window is now displayed shifted to the left side of the screen. A bad cable or switch should not cause this because they do not change the display signal coming out of the HTPC. Only the computer should control this. Or am I missing something on how the HDCP handshake works?
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-29-2012, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike99 View Post

I've been having an HDMI problem with my new build of an ECS mobo & Windows 7.

I use a 3-way HDMI switch because the HDTV has only 1 input. If there's any signal dropout the switch defaults to Input #1. The HTPC is connected to Input #3 & every few minutes the switch reverts back to the default #1 input for no obvious reason. One minute your watching the HTPC then all of a sudden your watching Input #1.

Initially I thought it could be the switch or a cable acting up. However I could have a window open such as Internet Explorer & it is not maximized but centered, and the HDMI switch jumps to Input #1. I then reset the switch to Input #3 and the browser window is now displayed shifted to the left side of the screen. A bad cable or switch should not cause this because they do not change the display signal coming out of the HTPC. Only the computer should control this. Or am I missing something on how the HDCP handshake works?

You might want to try a lower screen resolution or refresh rate on the PC.
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-29-2012, 07:02 AM
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Try turning the device connected to Input #1 OFF to see if it is somehow causing the switch to revert...
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-29-2012, 08:39 AM
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I've seen weird windows behavior like that before on work computers with a short in the video cable. Windows, for some weird reason, when it loses the monitor reverts to a lower resolution, and once the monitor connection is restored the windows have been moved.

I don't think yours is the cable though, I'm leaning towards the switch. Whether the switch has a signal or not, it should not change inputs on it's own. I've yet to see a switch or receiver change inputs simply because a signal is not found. That could make programming your remotes tougher because of simple power up order.

Try these things and see what happens:
1. Hook the PC straight to the TV. Does the PC still drop signal?
2. Place the PC on input #1 of the switch? Does the PC still drop signal? If not, does whatever is connected to input #3 drop signal now?
3. Try a different HDMI cable. Does the PC still drop signal?
4. Is there anything that could be controlling the switch, sending it to input #1? (script on the computer, neighbors remote, etc).
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-29-2012, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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The HDMI switch is the problem. First, there is no problem when the HTPC is connected directly to the HDTV. I tried several other connection variations & it does not matter if the device on Input #1 is turned on or off. But whatever is connected to Input #3, or #2, eventually gets switched off and I end up on Input #1.

I never noticed a problem before because Input #1 is used almost all the time & is the Dish DVR. But if I put the DVR on Input #3 or #2 after several minutes either of those inputs are switched off & I'm looking at Input #1.

I guess the switcher is experiencing an intermittent problem of some sort. I opened it up hoping to see something obviously wrong like a poor solder joint or leaky capacitor, but no such luck. I liked this switcher because it had a learning function & could learn your remote(s) on/off codes.

But I'm still curious how a loss of connection problem could cause a change in the way that Windows displays its screen. Could a breakdown in HDCP handshaking somehow affect this?
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-29-2012, 02:29 PM
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This is just a guess. I think Windows resorts to the lowest resolution when it loses signal, and when signal is restored it reverts to the original resolution. Unfortunately when this happens most everything gets moved (open windows and icons). You can simulate it by changing your resolution down and then back up.

Just a thought. If the switch loses power does it resort to input 1 when power is restored? Check the power connection in the switch and at the brick (I assume it uses an adapter of some sort). This is also assuming that if it has no power then input 1 is a pass thru to the TV.
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-30-2012, 04:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yraen View Post

This is just a guess. I think Windows resorts to the lowest resolution when it loses signal, and when signal is restored it reverts to the original resolution. Unfortunately when this happens most everything gets moved (open windows and icons). You can simulate it by changing your resolution down and then back up.

Just a thought. If the switch loses power does it resort to input 1 when power is restored? Check the power connection in the switch and at the brick (I assume it uses an adapter of some sort). This is also assuming that if it has no power then input 1 is a pass thru to the TV.

The HDTV is an "old" 1280x720 set and that's what the HTPC resolution is set at. When I change the HDMI switch back to Input #3 there usually, but not always, is a small message in the lower right corner of the screen stating Optimal Resolution Notification, and it wants me to change from 1280x720 to 1920x1080 which it says is the resolution of my display. But this is not correct. It does not automatically change the resolution & everything looks the same except an open window is shifted to the left side of the screen.

I'm not sure if it's a power interruption inside the switch or a part going bad that causes the unit to revert to Input #1. I never see the power indicator LED change or flicker. It does use a power adapter & I did check & it does supply +5V. I'll pull the plug & see what happens.
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-30-2012, 05:33 AM
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NEVER use a cable or satellite box on a HDMI switch. I have 3 setups that use them connected to the AVR. I have no problems on any of them as I only have the PC, Blu Ray, and HDDVD hooked up and they are off when not used. The tv boxes are allways ON even when no picture (for software updates and dvr recordings etc.). I have used Dish receivers hooked via component (only 1080i anyway-for the most part) and spdf to the receiver and the PQ and AQ was very good.
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-30-2012, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike99 View Post

The HDTV is an "old" 1280x720 set and that's what the HTPC resolution is set at. When I change the HDMI switch back to Input #3 there usually, but not always, is a small message in the lower right corner of the screen stating Optimal Resolution Notification, and it wants me to change from 1280x720 to 1920x1080 which it says is the resolution of my display. But this is not correct. It does not automatically change the resolution & everything looks the same except an open window is shifted to the left side of the screen.

I'm not sure if it's a power interruption inside the switch or a part going bad that causes the unit to revert to Input #1. I never see the power indicator LED change or flicker. It does use a power adapter & I did check & it does supply +5V. I'll pull the plug & see what happens.

If your display is 720p then feed it 720p.

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-30-2012, 11:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfbar1 View Post

NEVER use a cable or satellite box on a HDMI switch. I have 3 setups that use them connected to the AVR. I have no problems on any of them as I only have the PC, Blu Ray, and HDDVD hooked up and they are off when not used. The tv boxes are allways ON even when no picture (for software updates and dvr recordings etc.). I have used Dish receivers hooked via component (only 1080i anyway-for the most part) and spdf to the receiver and the PQ and AQ was very good.

I've been using a Dish DVR and a Blu-ray player with this HDMI switch for over a year & never had a problem. The last time I watched Blu-ray was about 2 months ago & it worked then. But not anymore. It's gets powered up every time I watch the HDTV, so maybe an internal part is starting to fail.
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-30-2012, 11:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

If your display is 720p then feed it 720p.

I do feed the display 720p. One advantage of this is that I can actually read text & use the HTPC when looking at this forum. The 1080 text is too fine & small. I know I can change text size, but it's easier to use the native 720p. And with 720p any open window is also larger.
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-02-2012, 12:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yraen View Post

Just a thought. If the switch loses power does it resort to input 1 when power is restored? Check the power connection in the switch and at the brick (I assume it uses an adapter of some sort). This is also assuming that if it has no power then input 1 is a pass thru to the TV.

If the switch loses power it resorts to Input #1 when power is restored. If there is no power then no video signal gets through.

Previously I did check for a loose power connection. The 5V power cable plug seemed a bit flaky so I carefully removed the molded on plug & re-attached & soldered it back on. My DVM indicated a solid power output at the 5V plug & I thought that would solve the problem, but it did not.

If the 5V plug was wiggled in the switch jack a certain way the power would cut out. I re-soldered the jack to circuit board connection just to make sure it was OK. But wiggling still caused the power to cut out. I presume this was just due to the looseness of the plug-to-jack connection. Again, this was difficult to.

This evening when playing with it the 5V plug now seemed very sensitive in regards to how it was rotated in the switch jack. After killing the power it was difficult to get it going again. I'll see how I feel next week about investing anymore time in trying to fix it or just buying another cheap switch.
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-02-2012, 02:40 AM
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I'm glad you found the problem, that will make the decision on how to fix it easier. You can probably pick up a new one at digi-key cheap unless it is one of those requiring bulk purchase.
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