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post #1 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 04:33 AM - Thread Starter
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what are desireable & undesireable internal PC temps. like for
1.CPU

2.system temp.

3.PCH temp.

4.CPU fan speed.

edit 1 is checking temps in the BIOS sufishant?

edit 2 how long should the PC be turned on and being used before checking temps.?

Thanks STB

 

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post #2 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 05:51 AM
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With all your specifics....there is no answer. There is no one size fits all answer due to the myraid of parts and configurations and environments etc.

For HTPC use, desirable temp = simply being within spec, even if it's on the warm side. There is no point at all in making the computer sound like a vacuum cleaner simply to get internal temps as close to ambient temps as possible like what seems to be popular with gaming systems. Name if the game here is getting the computer as quiet as possible while still remaining within operating spec.

Undesireable temp = whatever it takes to overheat the particular system at load, and again it depends on the parts and configuration as different cpu's have different top operating temps. So basicly if you can run it at full load and it doesnt exceed the max temps for your components, it's good. If you do exceed the max temps, then you should correct that.



Checking temps through BIOS...mixed bag. Some are reasonably accurate, many are not. In my experience with past stuff I have had, BIOS seems to read way on the high side. This particular computer for example the BIOS shows about 10c higher then any other utility I run in windows.
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

what are desireable & undesireable internal PC temps. like for
1.CPU
lower is better...
but as long as your cpu isn't throttling (if it supports that feature, or blowing up/melting down if it doesn't) within your operational ambient temp range you are ok.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

2.system temp.
lower the better... but much less important than CPU & PCH... you just don't want to boil any electrolytic caps... ie keep it under 80C in your operational ambient temp range
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

3.PCH temp.
depends on your PCH, but lower is better...
you should try and keep the PCH Junction Temp lower than the rated max within your operational ambient temp range.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

4.CPU fan speed.
fan speed is irreverent, it should be whatever it needs to be based on you fan/heatsink/load/etc at that exact point in time... with a good heatsink or case you may be able to get by without a fan...
from a noise point of view, slower (or none) is preferable...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

edit 1 is checking temps in the BIOS sufishant?
I don't think so... there is no load at that point...
I prefer to use an intel thermal tool that is only available by talking nicely to your local intel rep...
of course that only works with intel chipsets...
other people like other tools...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

edit 2 how long should the PC be turned on and being used before checking temps.?
it should be turned on and doing what you expect it to be doing (or running a set load) for long enough for the temps to stabilize/max out, then you should measure your ambient so you know what your starting point is... really there is nothing more useless then someone who says my X temp is Y degrees C when you don't know what their ambient was...
ie my X is 50C could mean that if they took that measurement at 0C amb they have a 50C temp rise, which would kind of suck... at an amb of say 40C, they would be running 90C... (note, I just picked these numbers as the math was easy... not that they are at all likely)
anyway, stating temp measurements as either Temp rise above ambient or xC @ yC amb is just much more informative...

of course no one else here ever mentions what their ambient is... so the choice is yours... just seems so pointless/meaningless without a reference though...

NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 06:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C17chief View Post

With all your specifics....there is no answer. There is no one size fits all answer due to the myraid of parts and configurations and environments etc.
For HTPC use, desirable temp = simply being within spec, even if it's on the warm side. There is no point at all in making the computer sound like a vacuum cleaner simply to get internal temps as close to ambient temps as possible like what seems to be popular with gaming systems. Name if the game here is getting the computer as quiet as possible while still remaining within operating spec.
Undesireable temp = whatever it takes to overheat the particular system at load, and again it depends on the parts and configuration as different cpu's have different top operating temps. So basicly if you can run it at full load and it doesnt exceed the max temps for your components, it's good. If you do exceed the max temps, then you should correct that.
Checking temps through BIOS...mixed bag. Some are reasonably accurate, many are not. In my experience with past stuff I have had, BIOS seems to read way on the high side. This particular computer for example the BIOS shows about 10c higher then any other utility I run in windows.
what is w/in spec.?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Somewhatlost View Post

lower is better...
but as long as your cpu isn't throttling (if it supports that feature, or blowing up/melting down if it doesn't) within your operational ambient temp range you are ok.
lower the better... but much less important than CPU & PCH... you just don't want to boil any electrolytic caps... ie keep it under 80C in your operational ambient temp range
depends on your PCH, but lower is better...
you should try and keep the PCH Junction Temp lower than the rated max within your operational ambient temp range.

fan speed is irreverent, it should be whatever it needs to be based on you fan/heatsink/load/etc at that exact point in time... with a good heatsink or case you may be able to get by without a fan...
from a noise point of view, slower (or none) is preferable...
I don't think so... there is no load at that point...
I prefer to use an intel thermal tool that is only available by talking nicely to your local intel rep...
of course that only works with intel chipsets...
other people like other tools...
it should be turned on and doing what you expect it to be doing (or running a set load) for long enough for the temps to stabilize/max out, then you should measure your ambient so you know what your starting point is... really there is nothing more useless then someone who says my X temp is Y degrees C when you don't know what their ambient was...
ie my X is 50C could mean that if they took that measurement at 0C amb they have a 50C temp rise, which would kind of suck... at an amb of say 40C, they would be running 90C... (note, I just picked these numbers as the math was easy... not that they are at all likely)
anyway, stating temp measurements as either Temp rise above ambient or xC @ yC amb is just much more informative...
of course no one else here ever mentions what their ambient is... so the choice is yours... just seems so pointless/meaningless without a reference though...
guess I'll use my initial mearsurements w/ PC located in open area. then compare to new mearesurments after relocating PC.

when I started w/ HTPC the PC was located in a open area (hence previous temps) I have since relocated the PC directly behind the Plazma TV. see images.

I checked the BIOS temps are as follows since relocating PC to confined area w/ about 6 hours of recording high definition TV. recording 2 shows simlutaniously.
CPU 31 previous 22

sys temp 49C 120F previous sys.temp. 37 C/98F

PCH temp 66 previous PCH temp 59

CPU fan speed 1445 RPM did'nt record previous FS

so w/ the PC relocated I thought it to be a good idea to install a sys case fan?
I must have a decent fan because I don't hear it at all even w/ audio muted (BTW:I have excellent hearing)

more images of PC relocated to a confined area
acerback2.jpg
By stevethebrain at 2012-08-10
acerdack.jpg
By stevethebrain at 2012-08-10

image of newly installed case fan.
acerfan.jpg
By stevethebrain at 2012-08-10

I will evalueate the need for a intake fan after I mearsure the new and hopefully improved temps.
however I don't think this case I have is designed to have a intake fan
maybe I can install a fan then drill holes in the front of case and add a fliter?
image of inside front of case.
acerfintake.jpg
By stevethebrain at 2012-08-10

Thanks STB

I will monitor the temps w/ new fan later today and post up results.

edit what is GPU temp and doe's the BIOS display it?
Thanks STB



here's a image of the front of PC relocated directly behind the Plazma TV
acerfront.jpg
By stevethebrain at 2012-08-10

 

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post #5 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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additionale info: on inside of PC
this PC did'nt come w/ a sys. case fan, I have added a PCI type full sized TV tuner,

CPU has orginalle fan CPU is I3 550 at 3.2 GHz

3 RAM stick each 2GB

the PSU has it's own fan.

recently installed a sys. case fan

? my new fan has 3 wires red 12V blk ground and yellow to monitor speed however I'm not seeing it's speed displayed in the BIOS?

edit: room temp is usalley around 79-82 degrees farinhite.

the wooden cabinet it about 1" from the wall.

in addition to the top square hole exposeing the front of PC I have drilled a row of holes at the where the bottom of case would normalley draw air in.
STB

 

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post #6 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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additionalle infor on the inside of PC
I3 CPU has orginale fan, PC did'nt come w/ a sys. case fan, one 1 TB internal HDD, one PCI full sized TV tuner card.

PSU has it's own fan.

wooden cabinet is 1" away from wall.
the bottom of TV w/ stand is about 3" above the bottom of cabinet, top of TV has 1/8" opening sides of TV are inclosed.
usalley room temp is 78-82 degrees farinhight.
STB

 

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post #7 of 18 Old 08-11-2012, 08:10 AM
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your temps look fine as such... at the point in time that you took the measurement... it probably cooled off a bit(aka a lot) from when it was working to when you checked it in bios... I would try to find some sort of temp checker that runs in windows so you can check while the cpu is hot/doing something...

but if you consider the readings you got, assuming amb ~ 27C (ie ~80F) so you CPU was 31C, that is only a 4 deg C raise over amb, so you can now extrapolate that out to say amb=40C (104F, lets say your air conditioner broke or something) your CPU would only be about 44C... most intel desktop CPU's are happy till somewhere in the 80-90C range... so all good... at least when you are in bios...
even if your 31C was really 67C in real life/use, you would then have a 40C raise over amb , so if your AC broke and the amb was 40C then the CPU would just be hitting 80C, and it might start to throttle, but so what? at that point you really should be busy fixing the AC and not watching a movie anyway...
(note: you can do the math for the other temps... if you search intel for your PCH/cpu they have the datasheet, and it lists max temp for your actual chips...)

FWIW, not all tach wires (yellow fan wire) are created equal...open collector, open emitter, internal pull up (or down), no internal pull up (or down), sometimes it is even just a rotor locked/fan fail signal... anyway, it just may be your MB is expecting one type of tach, and your fan has a different type... or there is some switch in bios that you didn't flip/set... hard to tell...

NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 06:42 AM - Thread Starter
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http://www.support.acer.com/acerpanam/Manuals/acer/2010/ServiceGuides/SG_Aspire_M3910_Book_03272010.pdf

On page 52 I have the new sys. fan plugged into location 19.

When I start ripping BD I forsee a need for more storage there are two additionalle spots for internal HDDs total of 3 HDD, so I would like to add two 2TB HDDs w/ this extra heat I'd like a intake fan. A very Knowlegdable member here has recommended against fully populating w/ 3 HDDs because of poor ventalation maybe a intake fan the case's ventilation would be improved?

1.is there a location on the MB for a intake fan? or will a intake fan have to connected directly to the PSU?

2.page 20 displays the BIOS health note that
sys. fan is N/A can this be enabled? I'm thinking it's N/A because the PC did'nt come w/ a sys. fan.

3. doe's W7 have a program to monitor PC temps? or will I need a 3rd party SW? if yes please recommend SW.

4. w/ the addition of a sys. & intake fan plus two more HDDs should the orginale 300watt PSU require upgrading?

edit: did'nt get a chance yesterday to monitor temps w/ the new sys. fan will do that today.

Thanks STB

 

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post #9 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 07:21 AM
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A quick look out on the acer site didn't turn up any utilities to show the systems temps, etc., under windows. You might check with Acer support to see if they have any suggestions as to here you might locate one. If your knew the motherboard maker and model you could check their site. W7 does not have a program that does this.

Your power supply should be fine for the added HDDs and fan given your current system contents. There might be a BIOS setting to enable fan monitoring...
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

http://www.support.acer.com/acerpanam/Manuals/acer/2010/ServiceGuides/SG_Aspire_M3910_Book_03272010.pdf
On page 52 I have the new sys. fan plugged into location 19.
that looks right... no clue if it will be happy or not, but it looks ok...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

When I start ripping BD I forsee a need for more storage there are two additionalle spots for internal HDDs total of 3 HDD, so I would like to add two 2TB HDDs w/ this extra heat I'd like a intake fan. A very Knowlegdable member here has recommended against fully populating w/ 3 HDDs because of poor ventalation maybe a intake fan the case's ventilation would be improved?
personally when it comes to storage like that, if it requires more than 1 large HDD, I prefer to move the storage off to a NAS/Server of some sort... then you can let the storage be as loud as it needs to be to keep it cool and happy... also you can start doing some sort of redundancy (ie unraid or flexraid,etc) so as to protect against a drive failure, as physical size/space are less of an issue if all the HDD's have their own case...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

1.is there a location on the MB for a intake fan? or will a intake fan have to connected directly to the PSU?
no/yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

2.page 20 displays the BIOS health note that
sys. fan is N/A can this be enabled? I'm thinking it's N/A because the PC did'nt come w/ a sys. fan.
could be... or its greyed out because it didn't detect a valid tach signal....
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

3. doe's W7 have a program to monitor PC temps? or will I need a 3rd party SW? if yes please recommend SW.
just a quick googling, but Core Temp looks cool... and it is free, so might as well give it a try...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

4. w/ the addition of a sys. & intake fan plus two more HDDs should the orginale 300watt PSU require upgrading?
I don't think so...
it may require upgrading because it is crap (just guessing here, but lots of OEM PSU's are crap, not sure on your exact one...), but 300W is plenty...

NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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post #11 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 08:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Somewhatlost View Post

that looks right... no clue if it will be happy or not, but it looks ok... not sure what you mean by the fan being happy I know I'll happy if it improves cooling.
personally when it comes to storage like that, if it requires more than 1 large HDD, I prefer to move the storage off to a NAS/Server of some sort... then you can let the storage be as loud as it needs to be to keep it cool and happy... also you can start doing some sort of redundancy (ie unraid or flexraid,etc) so as to protect against a drive failure, as physical size/space are less of an issue if all the HDD's have their own case...as far as redundancy for when a HDD fails I use DVDs and soon the BD-R discs. maybe I'll stick w/ external HDDs a have a WD my book elite I believe it has it's own cooling fan builtin plus I have plently of room in my cabinet this Acer case is real big would kindof prefer to have internals HDDs
no/yes
could be... or its greyed out because it didn't detect a valid tach signal....
just a quick googling, but Core Temp looks cool... and it is free, so might as well give it a try...
I don't think so...
it may require upgrading because it is crap (just guessing here, but lots of OEM PSU's are crap, not sure on your exact one...), but 300W is plenty...
the PSU is a concern of mine because if it fails it will ruin alot of other componets I would like to upgrade for piece of mind not exactly sure on type ideally I would like to leave all the currnet PSU wiring attached just unplug at the unit and replace the unit.

edit I looked for the PSU in device manager did'nt see anything how do I determine if my OEM PSU is a turd?

other responses above in bold.

Thanks STB

 

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post #12 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 09:59 AM
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unraid/flexraid/etc that give you redundancy aren't a backup as such... you are right that your actual DVD/BR disks make a great backup... it is more of a convenience... when one drive fails with redundancy, you can just pop in a new drive and it will rebuild on its own (ie ~5minutes of your time, and x amount of rebuilding time that you can be doing other things...)... without redundancy you have to re-rip... at about 15 minutes per DVD and 40 minutes or more per BR that can be a lot of time you are actively involved...
no biggie though, personal preference is everything when it comes to HTPC... there is no "One Right Way(TM)"... if it works for you it is by definition Right/Good/Happy...
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

the PSU is a concern of mine because if it fails it will ruin alot of other componets I would like to upgrade for piece of mind not exactly sure on type ideally I would like to leave all the currnet PSU wiring attached just unplug at the unit and replace the unit.
edit I looked for the PSU in device manager did'nt see anything how do I determine if my OEM PSU is a turd?
other responses above in bold.
Thanks STB
the PSU wont show up in device manager...
as for how to tell... it is not that simple really... you just need to "know"
in general, if you take two supplies of similar output (ie 300W in your case), the one that weighs more has a much higher likelihood of being a good supply... but even this isn't 100%... mostly you need to just have faith in the manufacture... if that manufacture is someone like corsair it is somewhat easy to have faith in them, alternately if the manufacture is Bobs no name discount supplies, it isn't so easy...
if you can find the actual manufacturer, you can try and do a search and see if they tend to blow up more than average...

fwiw, you don't need a big wattage PS...
your CPU probably maxes out at like 65watts or so(I am just grabbing a generic i3 here, yours may be more or less... ), a modern HDD (big or small, it is all the same) maybe maxes out at 10-15W, add maybe another 10W for PCH/other piddly crap/fans/etc... so your total watts needed worst case scenario would be 120W... now double that, just to be paranoid, and your are at 240W.... so 300W is more than plenty... actually, running like a 1000W PSU with a 120W load (and probably much, much less 90% of the time) would be really inefficient.. big wattage supplies are designed to pump out lots of watts, they tend to have a hard time with light loads...

NOTE: As one wise professional something once stated, I am ignorant & childish, with a mindset comparable to 9/11 troofers and wackjob conspiracy theorists. so don't take anything I say as advice...
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post #13 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 10:21 AM
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Also with power supplies there is really only a few OEM's who actualy produce them. Brands like Corsair just slap their branding on.

So at times you can have a line of psu's from one company. Where the 400w is a great unit but the 600 is not, because of different OEM's. Not
common but I have seen it in the past.

Heres a list of some popular power supplies.
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
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post #14 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevethebrain View Post

what are desireable & undesireable internal PC temps. like for
1.CPU
2.system temp.
3.PCH temp.
4.CPU fan speed.
edit 1 is checking temps in the BIOS sufishant?
edit 2 how long should the PC be turned on and being used before checking temps.?
Thanks STB

You missed what may be the most important point - the temperature of the hard drive.

So no, checking temps with the BIOS is not sufficient. Check hard drive temps by running a program that displays SMART information for you hard drives.

Do it on the hottest day of the year after the computer has been running forever.

Acronis drive monitor is one such program and it is free.

Beyond that, the fan speeds are causes, not results and they need to be whatever it takes to keep things cool enough.

IME the alarm temp defaults for most monitoring programs are pretty reasonable.
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post #15 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 08:22 PM
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Power supplies are one of the items where mfgs can really cut costs.  The cpus, hard drives, and for the most part sdram, are going to be the same in a pre-made or build-your-own. But the PSU?  Those $15 power supplies that you (hopefully) would never buy for your system are exactly what Dell and HP and Acer and Lenova are putting in their boxes, and the cheaper the box, the cheaper the PSU.

 

You can be confident that it's junk.  Yeah, it may work, but that's due to luck and not being heavily taxed primarily.

 

Go read Assassin's hardware guide, and JohnnyGuru.com, and Tom's hardware, for solid info and reviews about power supplies.  Pay absolutely no attention to Newegg reviews.  None of those people have torn their psu apart, examined the internals, and tested the components.  Their comments are of zero value.

 

The absolute best buy in a power supply you're going to find right now is the Corsair CX-430 v2 that Newegg has been selling for $25 after rebate.  Read about it here -  http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=239

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post #16 of 18 Old 08-12-2012, 09:16 PM
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There are a couple of software tools that can be used to monitor system temps:

Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
Generally recommended as the most accurate and is probably the most widely used. I've never use it as I haven't been able to get it two work

Core Temp - http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Pretty good tool and is the next most commonly used tool after Real Temp.

CPUID Hardware Monitor - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Shows all system temps including hard drives. I've found the CPU temps vary by a couple of degrees from Core Temp.

Speedfan - http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Monitors all system temperature sensors plus enables you to customise fan speeds and control responses.

The temperature sensors on Sandy and Ivy Bridge processors are less accurate at lower temps and get more accurate as the chip gets closer to the maximum temp.

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post #17 of 18 Old 08-13-2012, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteboy714 View Post

Also with power supplies there is really only a few OEM's who actualy produce them. Brands like Corsair just slap their branding on.
So at times you can have a line of psu's from one company. Where the 400w is a great unit but the 600 is not, because of different OEM's. Not
common but I have seen it in the past.
Heres a list of some popular power supplies.
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
OK thanks for link I'll look it over
looks like NG only offers one brand name in rear exhaust fan PSU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

You missed what may be the most important point - the temperature of the hard drive.
So no, checking temps with the BIOS is not sufficient. Check hard drive temps by running a program that displays SMART information for you hard drives.
Do it on the hottest day of the year after the computer has been running forever.
Acronis drive monitor is one such program and it is free.
Beyond that, the fan speeds are causes, not results and they need to be whatever it takes to keep things cool enough.
IME the alarm temp defaults for most monitoring programs are pretty reasonable.
are you saying that CPU and sys temps could be fine meanwhile the HDD in same case is being roasted?

Thanks STB

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zon2020 View Post

Power supplies are one of the items where mfgs can really cut costs.  The cpus, hard drives, and for the most part sdram, are going to be the same in a pre-made or build-your-own. But the PSU?  Those $15 power supplies that you (hopefully) would never buy for your system are exactly what Dell and HP and Acer and Lenova are putting in their boxes, and the cheaper the box, the cheaper the PSU.

You can be confident that it's junk.  Yeah, it may work, but that's due to luck and not being heavily taxed primarily.

Go read Assassin's hardware guide, and JohnnyGuru.com, and Tom's hardware, for solid info and reviews about power supplies.  Pay absolutely no attention to Newegg reviews.  None of those people have torn their psu apart, examined the internals, and tested the components.  Their comments are of zero value.

The absolute best buy in a power supply you're going to find right now is the Corsair CX-430 v2 that Newegg has been selling for $25 after rebate.  Read about it here -  http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=239http://www.support.acer.com/acerpanam/Manuals/acer/2010/ServiceGuides/SG_Aspire_M3910_Book_03272010.pdf

On page 40 instructions for removing the PSU
they only show two wired connections both to the MB does'nt the HDD,DVD have wires coming directly from the PSU?
The PSU you recommend looks good and priced right however my case is designed for a rear exhaust fan. do all Corsair PS have top exhaust fans?
how does this look
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371033
I was planning a PS upgrade for the PC and then use the orginale PS for a LED TV back light (I'm currently using a 9V wall wart hopefully the extra 3V will brighten things up)
Thanks STB

Quote:
Originally Posted by kesawi View Post

There are a couple of software tools that can be used to monitor system temps:
Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
Generally recommended as the most accurate and is probably the most widely used. I've never use it as I haven't been able to get it two work
Core Temp - http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
Pretty good tool and is the next most commonly used tool after Real Temp.
CPUID Hardware Monitor - http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Shows all system temps including hard drives. I've found the CPU temps vary by a couple of degrees from Core Temp.
Speedfan - http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php
Monitors all system temperature sensors plus enables you to customise fan speeds and control responses.
The temperature sensors on Sandy and Ivy Bridge processors are less accurate at lower temps and get more accurate as the chip gets closer to the maximum temp.
Thanks mate for the links STB

 

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post #18 of 18 Old 08-13-2012, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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update on fan
PC was'nt under heavy load like if it was recording 2 shows and playing another show on same HDD. it was on at idel for about 5 hours.

I should have mentioned that the single internal HDD is only being used for OS my recorded TV is stored on a extrenal WD my book.

CPU 30 previous 31

Sys. temp 44C /111F previous 49/120

PCH 59 previuos 66

CPU fan speed 1028 previous 1445

tack is working on new sys fan 1320
STB

 

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