Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Franklin, WI US
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Been using a home theater PC since my first HDTV in 1999, but this is the first time now I've used a receiver as an HDMI switch.
I have an Alienware X51 with the GTX 660 in it, and it works great to TV directly, but when I go through the Yamaha, I lose the signal when it's been on another input for too long.
Computer runs Windows 8 Pro and media center, also is my Logitech Alert system so it never sleeps, it's on 24/7.
Initially I had it set to never let the display sleep either, but my first attempt to combat this was to set the monitor to sleep after an hour. I thought maybe the movement of the touchpad on my mini keyboard would "wake" it up and force it to renegotiate the connection.
For a bit that seemed to work but I think it was working more due to other timing, not this setting.
I can switch back and forth in short periods of time and not lose the signal, but if I sit with it at my Uverse input and have my son watching some shows for a while, it won't come back short of a reboot, so for now I've got a Wemo power switch that the computer plugs into, so at least I can just hard power it off and back on with my phone when I need to. But being in IT, I hate hard powering off a windows machine, I've seen what that can do... So this is not an optimal solution. Only upside is I have an SSD in this so the boot time is quick.
I remember reading years ago about people having similar issues and buying an HDMI switch to put inline, to persist the "connection" for the computer, but in my searching and digging, I'm not finding any examples on google the last few weeks I've looked. May be because those threads were from so long ago.
Oddly enough, when I have the Yamaha powered, I have overscan on my TV (Samsung 55" LED), but when I power off the amp and let it do passthrough instead, then I get perfect sizing at the default 1920x1080 the computer is set to. But either way I have the signal loss. Powering the receiver on and off doesn't resolve it, only the PC.
I don't mind picking up a switch if it'll solve this for me, but I don't know which ones are good for this particular need. I'd rather not go through three or four with Amazon, returning them until I find one that works, so if someone can point me to a unit that will do the trick, or has another idea for this particular hardware combination, I'd appreciate it.