The X-Meridian 7.1 Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 2138 Old 03-26-2007, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBSCIX View Post

ABout plugins, so what do you guys think? Does Audioburst give you the best sound? becasue or the resampler or do you prefer Kernal streaming instead? actually Audio burst sounds the best to me so far...What's the opinions of the thread?

I've been screwing around with the plugins as well and have not heard anything better than the AudioBurst one. The Izotope Ozone is nice when you want to listen at very low levels but anything louder than that I turn it off completely.
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post #542 of 2138 Old 03-26-2007, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBSCIX View Post

ABout plugins, so what do you guys think? Does Audioburst give you the best sound? becasue or the resampler or do you prefer Kernal streaming instead? actually Audio burst sounds the best to me so far...What's the opinions of the thread?

I just listened to it (Audioburst). Technically its probably the most accurate as far as the math is concerned. It was very hard for me to tell any differences listening compared to the Windows Vista internal mixer. I would say that you cant go wrong with the Audioburst plugin. It was jabbing my CPU for 70% while playing a lossless WMA file. (of course I had the accuracy set to 64bit floating.. lol - overkill for sure).
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post #543 of 2138 Old 03-26-2007, 10:31 PM
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I have a hard time hearing the difference between winamp audioburst (24/192) and foobar2000 (asio/no src) when playing flac. However, mp3's sound significantly better (smoother) to me playing with audioburst. I don't know why that's the case to my ears.

My previous attempts at using secret rabbit on foobar2000 yeilded bad results compared to no src, so I don't resample on foobar. Asio didn't like 192khz, while 96khz yeilded a high pitched background that made listening unbearable.
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post #544 of 2138 Old 03-26-2007, 11:13 PM
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Must be doing something wrong here. When I use audioburst in vista, I see nothing happening. The graph doesn't move, changing the dials does nothing either where when I am in vista, I see tons of stuff happening. Am I missing something here?

O, and I did the cap bypass surgery, will review it a bit later. Suffice it to say, the 'veil' is now gone. Heck everything is so bright now that I am now totally focused on treating the room acoustically. Pickup the panels and bass traps tomorrow. Will report back once built. As my denon has the tube mod, I suppose now I am just trying to keep the accuracy of the xm while maintaining the 'warm' feeling I got from the denon. This card is now just so crystal clear that I can't stand it anymore and have to treat the room... can we say 'to bright'? lol

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post #545 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 02:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Nor22 View Post

With digital passthrough via S/PDIF, KMixer doesn't have an effect. His listening tests were with CD audio files where he was trying to determine if the modded XM sounded better than the DACs in his Pioneer receiver.

When playing the DD or DTS track from a DVD using his computer with a modded XM's analog outputs, it would not need to go through the sample rate conversion of KMixer because DD and DTS are already at 16bit 48KHz. In this case the comparison would be between the modded XM's DACs and the Pioneer receiver's DACs.

Ok so DD or DTS stream thru SPDIF bypass Kmixer at least avoid resampling.
But what about jitter ? On my old M-Audio delta audiophile there's a separate clock on card to avoid jitter. There's also one on Xmeridian ??
I mean , the stream could be bit-perfect over SPDIF, but also timings (jitter) must be accurate.

bye
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post #546 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dreamhost View Post

Must be doing something wrong here. When I use audioburst in vista, I see nothing happening. The graph doesn't move, changing the dials does nothing either where when I am in vista, I see tons of stuff happening. Am I missing something here?

O, and I did the cap bypass surgery, will review it a bit later. Suffice it to say, the 'veil' is now gone. Heck everything is so bright now that I am now totally focused on treating the room acoustically. Pickup the panels and bass traps tomorrow. Will report back once built. As my denon has the tube mod, I suppose now I am just trying to keep the accuracy of the xm while maintaining the 'warm' feeling I got from the denon. This card is now just so crystal clear that I can't stand it anymore and have to treat the room... can we say 'to bright'? lol

LOL.. Fortunately I already had 12 acoustic panels up in my room. The mod'd XM will be very harsh if the environment permits. Certain recordings also will make your ears bleed.
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post #547 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamhost View Post

Must be doing something wrong here. When I use audioburst in vista, I see nothing happening. The graph doesn't move, changing the dials does nothing either where when I am in vista, I see tons of stuff happening. Am I missing something here?

O, and I did the cap bypass surgery, will review it a bit later. Suffice it to say, the 'veil' is now gone. Heck everything is so bright now that I am now totally focused on treating the room acoustically. Pickup the panels and bass traps tomorrow. Will report back once built. As my denon has the tube mod, I suppose now I am just trying to keep the accuracy of the xm while maintaining the 'warm' feeling I got from the denon. This card is now just so crystal clear that I can't stand it anymore and have to treat the room... can we say 'to bright'? lol

What graphs are you referring to? I don't have any graphs when I use AudioBurst. Are you sure you're not talking about the other plugin, Izotope Ozone?
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post #548 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 06:07 AM
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Thought I'd share my experiences here aswell.

Got the X-meridian last week. My hopes were to use the DTS-encoding for hometheater gaming and the analog outputs with my headphones (Beyerdynamic DT-880). Moving from a seperate headphone amplifier (Corda Aria) to the analog outputs of the X-meridian, on of the main things I immideately noticed was the bass, which was so much weaker and that really disappointed me; maybe I was expecting a mere soundcard to do a bit too much.

Well, after reading about swapping the op-amps, I started looking for stores where I could get them to Finland from with reasonable prices. I was unable to locate any of the praised LM4562 from any stores from Finland, but Burr-Browns OPA2134 were available at about 4 euros each from ELFA. After reading about the good headphone driving capabilities of these op-amps on few websites, I decided to give them a chance, even though they weren't actually praised as being much of an upgrade on some forums.

Finally the OPA2134s arrived. Installed them and was eventually very positively suprised by the result. The bass was there again, quicker and more powerful than with the original op-amps. While it still might be a bit behind the reproduciton of the Corda Aria, for 35 euros (total cost with shipping) it's pretty damn good.
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post #549 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVOpus View Post

LOL.. Fortunately I already had 12 acoustic panels up in my room. The mod'd XM will be very harsh if the environment permits. Certain recordings also will make your ears bleed.

On a sobering note, if the treble is that bright, there is something wrong with the card or speakers since it is not recorded that way on most disks.

More is not always better

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post #550 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post

On a sobering note, if the treble is that bright, there is something wrong with the card or speakers since it is not recorded that way on most disks.

More is not always better

- Rich

I know that I'll definitely have to do the crossover mods on my Klipsch RF-7's now to bring down the brightness. It's incredibly clear.
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post #551 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dbossa View Post

I know that I'll definitely have to do the crossover mods on my Klipsch RF-7's now to bring down the brightness. It's incredibly clear.

Really? Are you sure the tail is not wagging the dog

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post #552 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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@Pace, if your looking for some Opamps that have a nice bass response. Check out the OPA2227's. They are in the same family but have a better bass repsonse IMO. Most people say the same thing. All the BurrBrown apps have that laid back tubby type of bass sound but the 2227's it is alot more controlled and musical. I would suggest you look for a set of those. I think you wil like those better then the OPA2134's, I know I did.
AS for plugins, I personally haven't heard a better output plugin the the Audioburst one. The samll free one. I also use the MAD decoder for a input plugin aswell.
The Ozone is supposed to simulate analog characteristics. it needs to be set properly. Although the XM doesn't need much in the way of enhacing plugins....IMO
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post #553 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Really? Are you sure the tail is not wagging the dog

- Rich

Klipsch are bright. Pretty much every model I have heard. Still.. I don't know if I would modify a more expensive component to fit the characteristics of a less expensive one.

Curious Rich, what meterial are the tweeters on your Revels made from?
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post #554 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 10:33 AM
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ROBSCIX, thanks for the tip. At the moment though, I'm pretty doubtful if I'm going to get any more op-amps, because these are so very good driving my headphones. Have you used headphones when comparing the op-amps, and which headphones?

I'm just curious, because I think that headphones are probably much more demanding to the op-amp; and thus different op-amps may rank differently. I've been led to this conclusion due to the fact that some have said that OPA2134 only do subtle improvements compared to the original op-amps; however, in my case the differences are not that subtle, the bass just has a lot more power.
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post #555 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post

On a sobering note, if the treble is that bright, there is something wrong with the card or speakers since it is not recorded that way on most disks.

More is not always better

- Rich

How do you know, were you at the studio? I have a lot of recordings (mostly rock) where the quality is certainly suspect. It's these that sound harsh to me. Typically these are mixed for a mass market and with consideration of the targeted audience (NOT audiophiles) . Frankly, when listening to music if you compare what you typically hear with music from most speakers to how bright the instruments sound live. Most speakers are laid back compared to actually "being there". I am exposed to live music on a regular basis and actually used to play guitar live in college. If I hear that platic film over the sound, it takes away from the realism for me. It's the nuances that makes it sound real to me and I can only hear those on an ultra resolving output. The trick is balance. I don't think I have the balance I want yet. This might be a speaker limitation or one presented by my source electronics. One thing I am positive about though is that the smooth sound that some prefer just isn't real. It's an easy test for me. I pick up my guitar and pluck a string. If it sounds like my speaker playing the same note. I'm good. If it sounds like its coming through a blanket.. back to the drawing board.
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post #556 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVOpus View Post

Klipsch are bright. Pretty much every model I have heard. Still.. I don't know if I would modify a more expensive component to fit the characteristics of a less expensive one.

Curious Rich, what meterial are the tweeters on your Revels made from?

Here is the Revel midrange and tweeter info

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In the upper enclosure, the important mid-range frequencies are faithfully reproduced by a 4-inch high-performance driver that is endowed with a high-performance neodymium magnetic motor system. It is equipped with an inverted titanium dome which is both very stiff as well as very light, providing true linear pistonic performance over its operating frequency range along with freedom from dynamic compression.
High frequencies are effortlessly reproduced by the primary 1.1-inch aluminum alloy dome tweeter, a proprietary unit that provides shimmering high-frequency response to above 30kHz. A smaller 3/4-inch rear-mounted tweeter provides additional high-frequency augmentation, optimizing the in-room response and imparting a smooth and airy quality over the treble range. Three high-frequency tuning controls provide for proper in-room balancing according to each listening room's particular acoustics, and each control features precision 0.5dB increments via multiple fixed resistors for optimum tuning accuracy.

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post #557 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVOpus View Post

How do you know, were you at the studio? I have a lot of recordings (mostly rock) where the quality is certainly suspect. It's these that sound harsh to me. Typically these are mixed for a mass market and with consideration of the targeted audience (NOT audiophiles) . Frankly, when listening to music if you compare what you typically hear with music from most speakers to how bright the instruments sound live. Most speakers are laid back compared to actually "being there". I am exposed to live music on a regular basis and actually used to play guitar live in college. If I hear that platic film over the sound, it takes away from the realism for me. It's the nuances that makes it sound real to me and I can only hear those on an ultra resolving output. The trick is balance. I don't think I have the balance I want yet. This might be a speaker limitation or one presented by my source electronics. One thing I am positive about though is that the smooth sound that some prefer just isn't real. It's an easy test for me. I pick up my guitar and pluck a string. If it sounds like my speaker playing the same note. I'm good. If it sounds like its coming through a blanket.. back to the drawing board.

I completely agree with the source material quality. For me, that makes it harder to start modifying your speaker crossovers.

I am not a musician, but I have a preference for non-amplified live music. Very few recordings can come close to this. I have not tried many DVD-A's primarily because they are such a pain in the butt to play.

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post #558 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I completely agree with the source material quality. For me, that makes it harder to start modifying your speaker crossovers.

I am not a musician, but I have a preference for non-amplified live music. Very few recordings can come close to this. I have not tried many DVD-A's primarily because they are such a pain in the butt to play.

- Rich

True, and maybe what I am trying to achieve is actually not the "true" recording. There are obvious colorations during the recording process that lend more to an amplified sound and I think I am trying to achieve a sound which is more of a "real" experience as opposed to one of listening to the artist through a pair of speakers. Unfortunately the only way to hear what the artists were hearing when recording is to be in the same room they were in listening to the same monitors. This is what they intended. Anything else is just individual preference.

Looking at your tweeter specs its obvious to me that my the silks on my Swans are not going to be as extended as yours (30k ! ). The metallic alloy designs also tend to be a bit brighter. Additionally, I can't say that these speakers were not designed to bring out the same level of detail that the XM/OpAmps are revealing. It's just with your setup that you might be getting a double dose of detail (ouch!). I would be willing to argue though that when both components (speakers and source electronics) are completely flat in their reponse without a loss of ANY high frequency detail that the sound would be "bright" compared to what most are used to hearing. Whether or not this is what was intended by the artist or wheter or not their equipment was more laid back is another issue. Who really knows the answer to this. I just compare the sound to "life" to determine accuracy on my own. This will be different for each person and their equipment.
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post #559 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVOpus View Post

Looking at your tweeter specs its obvious to me that my the silks on my Swans are not going to be as extended as yours (30k ! ). The metallic alloy designs also tend to be a bit brighter. Additionally, I can't say that these speakers were not designed to bring out the same level of detail that the XM/OpAmps are revealing. It's just with your setup that you might be getting a double dose of detail (ouch!). I would be willing to argue though that when both components (speakers and source electronics) are completely flat in their reponse without a loss of ANY high frequency detail that the sound would be "bright" compared to what most are used to hearing. Whether or not this is what was intended by the artist or wheter or not their equipment was more laid back is another issue. Who really knows the answer to this. I just compare the sound to "life" to determine accuracy on my own. This will be different for each person and their equipment.

In an ideal world, there would be such a thing as all components delivering accurate and untainted sound and then we would still have to deal with the room itself. I once listened to a $25K pair of Avalon's in a $50K room. The Avalon's were very nice (although a bit deficient on the low end) but the room was unbelievable. Wow, did it sound great.

The XM/LM4562 sounds very dynamic on my system with great detail, speed, and a taught low end. I find nothing missing there. It does however, create a different sound to the mid-range and some emphasis of the high end that I am not as used to. I prefer the mid-range of the X-FI, but for music, the X-FI is not performing well and is outclassed by the XM. Since Creative drivers are kind of crappy for Vista, I am still holding out hope for software, solution because I cannot believe that this card is as lackluster as it sounds on my system.

Movie playback is another matter. I have a hard time distinguishing the performance of the two cards, but then again the cards are dealing with a vastly different source in LPCM/DD+ etc. If the XM has a good compressed/night mode for HD audio, I have not found it. This is must have feature for me to watch movies while the kids are sleeping.

Still deciding what to do, but as it stands right now, I will probably sell the XM, because I can also just send the digital steam to my preamp for CD's.

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post #560 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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BASically digital will sound simialr on alot of cards becasue it's the receiver that is decoding and producing the sound. -If I am understanding you correctly.

On another note, who here is using the EQ on the XM and if so what are you setting it to?
I understand it's dependandt on the system of course but I am curious. What I want to do is do a frequency sweep through my speakers record it and then EQ my system from this point. Wouldn't this be the proper way to EQ your system? I have been looking forever for info on the proper way to do this I believe I have the proper gea to do it correctly but am unsure of the procedure so if anybody knows where I can find this info please let me know.
AVOpus, Jim? you guys have a opinion on this? is it a waste of time or a good idea if done properly?
I was reading about it on another site and founs the idea intriguing.
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post #561 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 04:46 PM
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Most of this post is a crosspost from the accoustic thread that I posted. I figured that I would add it here, as it really does 'kinda' show the lengths I am going to in order to get this card sounding as good as possible.

After changing the opamps, and doing the cap removal to the card, it has really, really opened up on me. I am in a very small room 12x11 and yet this card was putting out a pretty decent soundstage. It also really brightened up on me, and to my ears at least sounded a bit harsh. Solo's were a bit to far forward for me, but yet maintained decent focus. I say decent, not perfect there. I noticed the vocals were completely overpowering the rest of the mix on just about all the jazz albums I own, well except for patricia barber which imho has way to much bass.

Part of my problem may be that I was very used to the sound of the tubes in my dvd player, and this is a totally different sound alltogether. In the long run, I am going to look into a good tube amp to replace the denon 5800. Maybe, just maybe the combination of this card and a good tube amp setup will hit audio nirvana for me. Accuracy and warmth... mmmmmm

Well here's the crosspost portion:
Well I ran out today and purchased 50 of the 2x4 2" 6lb '705' panels to see if they would help out or not. Wish they had at least some 1" in stock but no luck there so I bought what I could get my hands on.

I figured that before taking the time to build/stain and cover the panels that I would try setting them around the room first to see if they made any difference. First I started by placing 8 panels around the room, listened for awhile, wasn't exactly blown away by the change so I made some changes.

I read about people cutting them into triangles and stacking them into a corner. So a few hrs later I had one big pile ready. Really only having one corner in the room available I decided to start there.

The sound change wasn't really all that evident. I wonder If I should continue all the way up the wall or not. Takes a lot of time and energy cutting these suckers, so if people here believe it wont help I'd like to hear before going through the motions.

If it is worth it, was thinking about leaving the rear speaker there, filling in the sides, and just continuing up the wall until I reach the ceiling. Of course if it does sound better, then I will build enclosers and wrap them to make it look right.

I also tried laying a few across the front to see if there was an effect

I may only be imagining things but it does seem to help a little bit with the harshness. It's not a huge change like I was hoping for, but there is a little. One thing I noticed was that on some albums I am loosing my 'vocal focus' in the soundstage. It's like I can tell the voice is coming from 2 speakers instead of enter imaged from the 2 speakers. Not sure how else to explain it.

Also, do you guys think it would help if I rebuilt my screen so that I could place this stuff behind it as well?

If I can find a scenario where this stuff really helps the room out, then I will build 1x2 frames for them, router edges, and stain them, probably deep mohogany. Will use french cleats on the back so that they are sticking about an inch out from the walls.

My 'theater for 2' mini setup
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post #562 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 04:46 PM
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Still deciding what to do, but as it stands right now, I will probably sell the XM, because I can also just send the digital steam to my preamp for CD's.

- Rich

If I had your preamp I would probably do the same thing. Although I didn't prefer the X-Fi for movies as you do. The XM modded gives me a level of audio quality that is probably over my budget if I were going to buy seperates that would compete. You going to use the X-fi for the lossless multichannel stuff ?
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post #563 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVOpus View Post

Klipsch are bright. Pretty much every model I have heard. Still.. I don't know if I would modify a more expensive component to fit the characteristics of a less expensive one.

Curious Rich, what meterial are the tweeters on your Revels made from?

The RF-7's were known to be very bright speakers. The brightness has been at an acceptable level up until now. Now that the 'veil' has been removed it is obvious that it's time to do this. The stock crossovers are more than sufficient for the majority of people buying them. However, Dean Wescott (aka Dean G), has created some fantastic crossovers for the RF-7 and the general reviews are that it brings the speaker to a world class level. Just Google his name and you'll see for yourself. One of the main benefits are that it brings the brightness under control. He does crossover work for several types of speakers but seems to specialize with Klipsch from what I've heard. He quoted me $290 to mod my pair which I found was quite acceptable.

If anyone here has never heard about crossover upgrades, this is what Dean G has to say about them:

Why do this?

Speaker manufacturers build to price points, and Klipsch is no exception. The parts utilized in the stock networks perform adequately, but compared to thick filmed high quality polypropylene types -- they sound gritty and constricted. High SPL listeners tend to get their ears pinned back, and casual listeners lose low level detail. The stock capacitors don't sound as open either, so soundstaging suffers. In short, mediocre parts are exchanged for very good ones -- resulting in substantial improvement to this already wonderful speaker.

In spite of being a great speaker right out of box, the RF-7 has some ringing from the underdamped cones, and shrillness in the treble response due to the horn's resonant peak not being brought down low enough. The combination of the better parts and a small value adjustment to a single resistor in the notch circuit in the HF section alleviates both problems and brings the RF-7 to a world class level.

What I do:

I desolder the parts, remove all of the old solder with braid, clean the boards with denatured alcohol, and then replace the capacitors and resistors. I use Kimber capacitors in the HF section, Jantzen Audio in the HF notch circuit, and Solen in the LF section. The junk resistors are replaced with Mills non-inductives.

What you get:

What you will hear is an increase in clarity, openness, and smoothness. The transients are cleaner, and there is more dimensionality to the soundstage. There will be a reduction in hash and grain at low level listening, and a very noticeable reduction in high frequency ringing and other artifacts during high SPL listening. I personally believe upgrading the quality of parts in a loudspeaker network is on the same level as any other component upgrade. In fact, the full potential of the gear behind the speaker will not be realized with the use of mediocre parts in
the network.
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post #564 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 05:17 PM
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Most of this post is a crosspost from the accoustic thread that I posted. I figured that I would add it here, as it really does 'kinda' show the lengths I am going to in order to get this card sounding as good as possible.

It's great that you are trying things. One thing I found out is that blocking the reflections on the side walls seemed help the most. Do the "mirror trick" where you sit where you want to listen to the music and have someone move a mirror on one of the side walls until you can see the speaker. Put 2 panels on each wall that line up with both the left and right speaker. That will block the first order reflections from each speaker off the side walls at least. This helps imaging. Also, you might have moved your speakers some. Speaker positioning is VERY important. I played for about a week till I got it the way I wanted. Moving them away from the walls is always a good start and then play with the angle they are canted towards you (if at all). One thing you can do is take a tape measure and attach one end to your listening position and then run the tape to your speaker. Measure this distance and then try to make the other speaker the same distance.

All of this is a bit fanatical, but for dead on imagin its important. People thing I am lying when I tell them my center is not active, and I actually hear sounds to my direct left and right depeding on the soundtrack.
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post #565 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 05:27 PM
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It's great that you are trying things. One thing I found out is that blocking the reflections on the side walls seemed help the most. Do the "mirror trick" where you sit where you want to listen to the music and have someone move a mirror on one of the side walls until you can see the speaker. Put 2 panels on each wall that line up with both the left and right speaker. That will block the first order reflections from each speaker off the side walls at least. This helps imaging. Also, you might have moved your speakers some. Speaker positioning is VERY important. I played for about a week till I got it the way I wanted. Moving them away from the walls is always a good start and then play with the angle they are canted towards you (if at all). One thing you can do is take a tape measure and attach one end to your listening position and then run the tape to your speaker. Measure this distance and then try to make the other speaker the same distance.

All of this is a bit fanatical, but for dead on imagin its important. People thing I am lying when I tell them my center is not active, and I actually hear sounds to my direct left and right depeding on the soundtrack.

Tried the mirror approach, but as you can see in the following diagram I have a closet door, and doors to the balcony exactly at my reflection points, really sucks. Here's a diagram

each square is 12" so you can tell just how small an area I am working with. Totally sucks that a 7,000sq' house has no room that is good enough for my media, well there is the indoor pool, but no way giving that up, heck I'm contracting a retractable floor for that room, which def wouldn't work for a theater setup.

Having never messed with acoustic treatments before this is all new to me. I'm determined to get this card sounding as good as anything out there in my room. After researching and buying a tube amp the next step is the Audyssey room correction system.

My 'theater for 2' mini setup
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post #566 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 05:30 PM
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Tried the mirror approach, but as you can see in the following diagram I have a closet door, and doors to the balcony exactly at my reflection points, really sucks. Here's a diagram

each square is 12" so you can tell just how small an area I am working with. Totally sucks that a 7,000sq' house has no room that is good enough for my media, well there is the indoor pool, but no way giving that up, heck I'm contracting a retractable floor for that room, which def wouldn't work for a theater setup.

Having never messed with acoustic treatments before this is all new to me. I'm determined to get this card sounding as good as anything out there in my room. After researching and buying a tube amp the next step is the Audyssey room correction system.

I've actually been meaning to ask you guys all about that. How would the room correction utility in Windows Vista compare to something like the Audyssey?
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post #567 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 05:38 PM
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I pretty much just covered my side walls with em. The sledgehammer approach.







Vista's room correction does a pretty accurate job of controlling the timings for multichannel playback. I do not have a good enough mic to apply frequency correction (not sure if I want to). My guess is that this is a good system, not as advanced as the Audyssey system. The Vista RC doesnt take multiple sitting positions into account.
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I pretty much just covered my side walls with em. The sledgehammer approach.







Vista's room correction does a pretty accurate job of controlling the timings for multichannel playback. I do not have a good enough mic to apply frequency correction (not sure if I want to). My guess is that this is a good system, not as advanced as the Audyssey system. The Vista RC doesnt take multiple sitting positions into account.

Nice looking room there, AVOpus
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post #569 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 06:06 PM
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I pretty much just covered my side walls with em. The sledgehammer approach.







Vista's room correction does a pretty accurate job of controlling the timings for multichannel playback. I do not have a good enough mic to apply frequency correction (not sure if I want to). My guess is that this is a good system, not as advanced as the Audyssey system. The Vista RC doesnt take multiple sitting positions into account.

Great room! No one can doubt your enthusiasm

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post #570 of 2138 Old 03-27-2007, 06:10 PM
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If I had your preamp I would probably do the same thing. Although I didn't prefer the X-Fi for movies as you do. The XM modded gives me a level of audio quality that is probably over my budget if I were going to buy seperates that would compete. You going to use the X-fi for the lossless multichannel stuff ?

Yes. In all cases, I prefer the lossless stuff no matter which card I use. It is hard to quantify, it just sounds less processed. The X-FI with SVM enabled is the best I can do right now for multi-channel audio. It does a good job of preserving the frequencies, providing a bias toward the center channel without getting muddy.

If I could find that processing for the XM, I would stick with it.

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