Originally Posted by celamantia
It dies with a BIOS POST code of 52, but I can't find a POST reference for the MrBig BIOS. The case is fine.
Well, my thought was just to put the working parts into another Core2Duo system in an HTPC case; far out of date but perfectly fine for the media PC function. But you may be right; the tuner was the part I wanted to save most, as when I first got the system I couldn't even find CableCARD based tuners, but now there's a better selection. I have been keeping an eye out for XL3 motherboards, as I am certainly able to replace that, but haven't found any yet.
Ironic, as I just bought an external Blu-Ray drive for my laptop last month. Now I'm annoyed we were saddled with that soft button! LOL
The ATi CableCard Hybrid ATSC/NTSC TV tuner is USB, and can be used in a different pc.
Yes, just one less thing I have to buy for the next one.
My guest room PC and my arcade emulation cabinet are both still using 120G's so I'll get use out of them. I'll probably use a SSD for the next HTPC.
Well, you have me rethinking this now, but if I do part it I'll get in touch! Thank you!
Hmm, your "Code 52" comment has me thinking that it may be something quite simple ... as opposed to an unrecoverable failure ( such as a fried, un-repairable motherboard).
"Code 52" is typically a reference to the system's failure to verify a digital signature for drivers required for a device. If this is noted during boot, when the computer is in check phase confirming that everything is ok, a Code 52 error will typically result in system shutdown (or occasionally a blue screen crash). This can happen from something as simple as installing a 'Beta' video/graphics driver; which is not properly signed.
A recent hardware or software change (even an update installed automatically by Windows Update) might have installed a boot-critical file with incorrect signature, or a corrupted or damaged driver, ....OR ....
---[ queue the eerie music now ]
-- the system might have acquired malicious software/malware (boot sector worm, rootkit, etc.)
Before giving up I would first download a copy of "Windows Defender Offline", and burn a bootable CD then try to boot to CD and run the program on your system.
If you are able to boot to the "Windows Defender Offline" CD, then in all likelihood your major components including motherboard and other key hardware are fine (see this demonstration video):
Download "Windows Defender Offline" from Microsoft: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/what-is-windows-defender-offline
If "Windows Defender Offline" does not find malicious software/malware, I would next
try pulling the system OS hard disk drive, and install a fresh, empty hard drive (either HDD or SSD) and do a clean (aka: "custom") reinstallation of Windows, which will install all the correct digitally signed drivers. If the Code 52 error IS
related to a primary driver issue for a boot device, this would be the next most expedient workaround, if the system components are undamaged and functional.
*You can also try 'F8' boot to 'safe mode' or 'safe mode with networking', and if you can successfully boot, run a System Restore operation selecting a Restore point which you know was prior to
the date when your system failed.
*You can also create a bootable Windows Repair CD on another computer running the same OS, (or download from NeoSmart Technologies: http://neosmart.net/blog/2008/window...disc-download/
), and try repairing any corrupted boot and system files using the Repair CD.
I would also recommend closely examining all of the electrolytic capacitors on the motherboard and other printed circuit board devices. If you find expanded, domed or leaking capacitor(s), replace it/them or have it replaced by your local pc repair shop, or the Geek Squad guys at Best Buy.
I would wager that if you still have your old, failed OEM video/graphics card, 9 chances out of 10 the reason it failed is because of one or more failed capacitors (which are replaceable, and cost only pennies at Radio Shack or eBay).
Our motherboards have a couple of dozen of them, and there are several more on the other devices with printed circuit boards.
Now: Back to the question of parting out, or selling your VGX-XL3 "as is" (if it's not repairable), I would be very surprised if you couldn't get enough selling it intact, to a VGX-XL enthusiast .... to pay for a new HTPC case and all the new components for a HTPC homebuilt.
People keep and upgrade these old VGX-XL systems because they are beautiful, and unusual, not because they are still "relevant", HA! LOL
And some enthusiasts are still regularly paying $350-$400+ for presently non-functional VGX-XL3 systems in nice cosmetic condition, ... which would pretty much pay for all of your new homebuilt HTPC project components and case. Food for thought...
Chris, have you thought about buying a multi-tuner CableCard device for your home network router (which can be used by all your networked computers, your dlna streaming devices, and your networked Smart TVs, rather than using the ATi internal CableCard device in a pc.
There are several on the market (one example):
These frequently go on sale for less than $100.