Hello Z5xx Diehards,
I have followed everyone's posts here for several years, as a reference source of sorts whenever I am perplexed looking for solutions with each generation of Z's I have (Z555, Z558, Z560, & Z565). Thank-You all for your trial & error to solution details which improve our z's performance & longevity. Now I need to reach out to you Gurus for some fine tuning.
In post 1119, Amazing DJ in reply to Arden Prinz in reply to Sean denotes the wiring to the front panel display. I have purchased a 300 Watt power supply and am wondering if the color coded values are industry standard voltages, meaning just pair up like color wires & tap / splice together. What throws me off is the "Grey=> Power Good", as what does power good mean? Is this connection to check for power, just like if a fan is disconnected or memory not secure in place, the Z will not start up? And after some thought, I believe connecting the P-6 wires to a 24 pin wire motherboard extension is better than directly onto the new power supply, as you do this once and it's always ready to go instead of soldering or crimping with each new power supply. The store (Fry's) had both an 6" & 12" extension for under $10 each. I also purchased T connectors, which will crimp in line with the 24 pin wire extension with the P-6 parallel together (sold in package of 6 / had to buy 2 packages @ $3 each / everything under $60). Please excuse my novice terminology & computer know how, however, I've swapped out these Hipro power supplies so many times, I've got it down to about 15 minutes each transplant (might have done well on an assembly line somewhere ... no, forget that!). I plan on improvising anchoring the power supply down with cable ties, secure, yet a snip will free it if need be. I also like the AC power connector is where the Hipro exhaust fan was, so easy to connect. The new power supply exhaust fan positioning looks best pointed toward inside of cabinet, however, if the cover is left off or a section above the power supply is cut open, up with the exhaust & out of the interior is best, as heat is the number 1 enemy with boards, overheating & blowing out capacitors as I have experienced on a Z555. I found leaving the cabinet cover off and using a 6 inch stand-up office desk fan attached to a Craftsman automatic power switch (model #24031
) which circulates cooler air over the entire open cabinet works very well versus the high end internal fan noise within a closed cabinet. So just match up wire colors & splice together?
Originally Posted by ArdenPrinz View Post
After replacing the power supply 3 times in my z558, I followed your lead and bought a larger power supply with a higher wattage rating and located it outside of the cabinet (behind my z558). Moving the power supply out of the cabinet opens up some space where the old power supply was located... perhaps room for another internal hard disk drive?
I salvaged the connector and wires from the old failed power supply and spliced it into the wires leading to the 24-pin main motherboard connector.
The wire colors / signals for that other connector (which is labeled P6) are:
Purple => +5 VDC Standby
Black => Ground
Red => +5VDC
Black => Ground
Yellow => +12 VDC
Black => Ground
Grey => Power Good
Thanks ArdenPrinz. You nailed the power supply swap. A stock HIPRO power supply now costs about $200. My HP Z560 has gone through 2 of them already, even though I am plugged into a good UPS. The last one failed while I was doing a normal power-up of the HP Z560. So I went for the $35 Seasonic power supply as a replacement.
Here is a video showing the Seasonic's relative size, and how to splice the daughterboard "P6" wire pigtail into the Seasonic.
As you can see, I didn't purchase or use an extender pigtail. I spliced directly into the big connector wires, using the color scheme you indicated. There are only 7 wires to solder. Simply "T" the P6 pigtail wires into the existing power supply wires. Done! My unit is back up and running. It is quieter and cooler than ever.
Connecting analog VHS & 8mm video to inputs-
I have video tapes I would like to convert to digital via inputs on cabinet. How do I enable to recognize real time video & record it on the hard drive? I can't get the RCA or S-video input function to work, but I can get the RF input to work when tuned to channel 3/4; what gives? I believe changing the signal around degrades it with each translation. Also, if I play my tapes directly on my tv, they fill the screen vs through the Z's RF input, the resolution or scaling has the right and left areas on the screen black. If a direct RCA / S-video solution is not known here, how would I go about adjusting what I have with RF input in the control panel display settings to have full screen image the same as when connected directly to the tv? I would love to upload videos onto YouTube or at least DVD 'em for future use.
Keyboard & Trackball-
Who else has trackball problems? I've taken the ring off & cleaned the contacts, roughened up the ball with fine sandpaper, even found exact size metal bearings & eventually roughened them up with short lived results. I'm ready to dab some STP oil treatment on the rollers to have them stick as an experiment, as in my youth, dabbing slot car wheels with STP would have them grip the track quite well. Any thoughts on this or STP stickiness equivalent? How wonderful these keyboards would be if the ball area was replaced with a touchpad, or left/right click buttons & touchpad areas were interchangeable snap-in controls between left & right sides for left or right handed (or handicapped) people's choice of which side tracking & clicking more comfortable with. And why not have a built in keyboard recharging cradle on top of cabinet, where the keyboard is always at 100% ready for use, perhaps USB to update if necessary. Likewise, hand held remote
I'm not yet going to "jump ship" & abandon this fine design, but I do have my eyes on Channel Master DVR+ in it's 1st generation & reviews thereof (mixed with positive bias). Perhaps 2nd generation will lure me, but there is nothing I am aware of that can beat this family of Z's all around usefulness.