ReplayTV 5xxx Power Supply Repair - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 25 Old 09-11-2011, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have a list of Radial Electrolytic Capacitors on the ReplayTV power supply circuit board?

Seems to be the most common part to fail. I believe I have three units that failed all at the same time and it appears the capacitors (at least one is bad). All the smaller ones seem to be OST capacitors. I can take them off one by one and identify them but if someone already has a list it would save some time.

Any suggestions on the best place to get the CapXon and OST Radial Electrolytic capacitors?

Thanks,
Scuba Steve

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post #2 of 25 Old 09-26-2011, 03:43 AM
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You might contact Mikeyboy. He is the most likely to have done this sort of repair. Not sure why you would have had three different power supplies so close together from the caps. Perhaps an external event?

However, if the capacitors have simply failed due to age - This could be the "lifetime" limiting components. Electrolytic caps are often replaced in industry critical applications at around 10-years. This style cap also ages "on-the-shelf" and does not need to be powered up.
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post #3 of 25 Old 02-13-2012, 01:13 AM
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I have 13 RTV 5000 series between two homes so I've gotten pretty resourceful at keeping them all alive. I bought some of them on ebay just to keep for parts but keep them all plugged in and working. Today one of them stopped though. The blue light was on but there was no video.
Rebooted - not even the blue light.

As had happened on another unit, I suspected a power supply problem. Popped the hood and sure enough, the 2200uf 10volt cap had blown - exactly the same one as in the other machine. Replacing the cap brought it back to life.

For those who don't know the difference between an electrolytic cap and a baseball cap allow me explain. The power supply board is in the front left corner of the unit and has the power cord plugged into it. The cap in question is one of the round black cylinders on the right side of the board. This specific cap is next to a coil and is located 1" in from the right side and 1.25" in from the front side of the board.

So how did I immediately know the cap had blown? You'll notice that all the caps have a flat top with an X scored on the top. The purpose of the scoring is to provide a weak point for the cap when it pops. You may notice some dirt and/or a small hole and/or a bulge in the top of the cap.

If you're handy with a soldering iron you can remove and replace the cap in about 5 minutes once you've unplugged the unit and removed the board from the chassis. When installing an electrolytic cap you MUST OBSERVE POLARITY! One side of the cap will be marked with a stripe with a "-" sign. That side goes into the shaded, rearward hole on the board.

If you're not comfortable soldering, any electronics repair shop can do it for you. The cap itself is less than $2. If you don't have an electronics supply store nearby you can order from Radio Shack or Jameco (the better choice).

Hope this helps someone out there in ReplayTV Land!
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post #4 of 25 Old 02-17-2012, 01:57 AM
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In my internet searches I found help for capacitor issues.

Great discussion, fixes, sources, etc.

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/index.php

Enjoy!

O==wrench==C
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post #5 of 25 Old 02-17-2012, 08:08 AM
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Just thinking out loud....
Are there any voltages supplied from the OEM Replay PSU that a standard $25 computer PSU doesn't provide?

Thinking hack here....

Standard computer PSU supplies +12v, +5v, +3.3v, -12v

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post #6 of 25 Old 02-17-2012, 05:14 PM
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I've been running my ReplayTV 3000 on a PC power supply for probably 8 years or so! Only issue is if it is an ATX power supply you'll need to add a jumper so it turns on.

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post #7 of 25 Old 02-18-2012, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reden View Post

I've been running my ReplayTV 3000 on a PC power supply for probably 8 years or so! Only issue is if it is an ATX power supply you'll need to add a jumper so it turns on.

Thanks Reden,

As I thought, a easy cheap fix!

$18 including shipping... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817170014

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post #8 of 25 Old 12-16-2012, 04:09 PM
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I have a minimal amount of electronics, but I was wondering what would one do to use the PC power supply to step down to the rainbow voltages and by-pass the failed replay power unit?

Thanks

Robert
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post #9 of 25 Old 12-17-2012, 09:03 AM
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No need to step down any voltages from a computer PSU, everything is already there that the Replay needs... +3.3, -3.3,+5,-5, +12, -12, Ground, etc..
You just have to cut the leads from the OEM Replay PSU identify the correct voltage for each lead- then splice in the computer PSU.

Here's a standard 24 pin atx PSU pinout: http://powersupply88.com/atx-power-supply-pinout.html

Here's a page with the pinouts for the ReplayTV- look about 1/2 way down the page for the photo of the actual connector voltages:
http://www.replaytvparts.com/5000or5500powerproblems.html

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post #10 of 25 Old 12-17-2012, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by replayrob View Post

No need to step down any voltages from a computer PSU, everything is already there that the Replay needs... +3.3, -3.3,+5,-5, +12, -12, Ground, etc..
You just have to cut the leads from the OEM Replay PSU identify the correct voltage for each lead- then splice in the computer PSU.
Here's a standard 24 pin atx PSU pinout: http://powersupply88.com/atx-power-supply-pinout.html
Here's a page with the pinouts for the ReplayTV- look about 1/2 way down the page for the photo of the actual connector voltages:
http://www.replaytvparts.com/5000or5500powerproblems.html

There's no -3.3 output from a computer PSU. Old PC supplies had -5V, but most don't now.

Mark Lloyd

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post #11 of 25 Old 12-17-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlloyd View Post

There's no -3.3 output from a computer PSU. Old PC supplies had -5V, but most don't now.
Yeah, my mistake no -3.3 (minus 3.3) volt output on computer PSU.
Good thing is the Replay doesn't need -3.3v it needs +3.3v

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post #12 of 25 Old 12-17-2012, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for all the quick responses. That is an easy (and Cheap!) alternative. I saw ebay was wanting around $100 for a replay PSU.

Robert
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post #13 of 25 Old 12-18-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgntna9 View Post

Thanks for all the quick responses. That is an easy (and Cheap!) alternative. I saw ebay was wanting around $100 for a replay PSU.
Robert
You could probably use one of the Mini ITX PSU's- it would fit right inside the Replay case with heavy duty velcro to hold it in place:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104080

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post #14 of 25 Old 12-18-2012, 06:34 PM
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SUBJECT: Repair or Replace? confused.gif
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgntna9 View Post

I have a minimal amount of electronics, but I was wondering what would one do to use the PC power supply to step down to the rainbow voltages and by-pass the failed replay power unit?
.
IMHO, I'd look for BULGED electrolytic caps on the ReplayTV P/S and replace them *BEFORE* I'd pop in a PC P/S... {thinking}
[*IF* you have a voltmeter (digital or analog) and can solder! eek.gif ]

There are PLENTY of PHOTOS with VOLTAGE CHECK INFO available if you SEARCH. rolleyes.gifwink.gif
. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Next, I'd look for 'less than' ~$20 LOCAL (i.e. *NO* SHIPPING! biggrin.gif ) USED ReplayTVs, working or not, for SPARE PARTS. smile.gif
.
Good Luck! smile.gif

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post #15 of 25 Old 12-19-2012, 02:38 AM
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Another option for those would like to have the power supply repaired. You can send them to me and I will replace the caps, test it and return it like I am doing with the Channel Master cm-7000.

I there is an interest, I will pull one of mine to determine what all the caps are and find replacements to determine the cost of this service.
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post #16 of 25 Old 12-21-2012, 03:06 PM
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I have a 5xxx power supply that just died. I would like it repaired. I see no tops popped but on a 0320 barrel (not the big ones and not the small ones), black, there appears to be a hole and an almost solder-like material bridged from it to the biggest heat sink bolt. When I say heat sink, I mean the longest and thinnest, and seems to be the biggest heat sink. It is definitely the power supply because there is a slight burnt mark on the power connector and it smells...and it doesn't boot up and the blue on light stays on unless I unplug it. Is the 0320 a capacitor and can you fix/replace it? If so how do we connect/hook up? Thanks.
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post #17 of 25 Old 12-21-2012, 06:51 PM
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Well you maybe able to use a pc power supply for a 3000 (I have seen one), but it is not going to work for a 5000/5500.

The 5000/5500 power supply has 5 voltages: +2.5V, +3.3V, +5.0V, +12.0V, +34.0V. The pc power supply does not have the 2.5V or 34V supply voltages.
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post #18 of 25 Old 10-21-2013, 08:03 PM
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I have a 5500 that seems to have a power supply problem - I see some "browning" where the orange wires go into the connector. I have a second replay that I don't use, I think it's a 5000. Can I swap out the power supply? And are there any instructions out there? I mean, I can probably unscrew and unplug and replug and rescrew... but maybe there are some subtleties, like how to unplug that 12 pin connector? Is there a catch?

Thanks for any advice! I love my old Replay.
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post #19 of 25 Old 01-02-2014, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brobin View Post

For those who don't know the difference between an electrolytic cap and a baseball cap allow me explain. The power supply board is in the front left corner of the unit and has the power cord plugged into it. The cap in question is one of the round black cylinders on the right side of the board. This specific cap is next to a coil and is located 1" in from the right side and 1.25" in from the front side of the board.

Thanks brobin, this helped me confirm I found the culprit for my RTV 5040 that was slowly failing. It would frequently reboot, get stuck during reboots, report a fan lock error, claim there was no video signal and when it failed hard, the blue light wouldn't come on. The 3.3V on the yellow wires was measuring 2.1V. When I removed the capacitor it measured only between 1400-1600uF (but looked fine - no signs of bulging or crowning).

Here's a photo showing the location of C41 (the one brobin described above).


GB
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post #20 of 25 Old 01-02-2014, 12:54 AM
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When replacing the cap go with a 16 volt instead of a 10 volt and it shouldn't fail again. I buy the caps on ebay really cheap - like $4.25 for a 5 pack delivered.
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post #21 of 25 Old 01-02-2014, 11:28 AM
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It may be too late. I ordered several different ones from badcaps.net. The caps are about 72 cents each but the shipping is relatively high (so I bought a bunch since I have 6 replayTVs). I'll see if I can call them and add or change the order. They have a 2200uF 16v Rubycon PX series that are the same diameter (I can't pretend I know what the series differences are). Or I can order the larger 16v ones and also use them for the other 2200uF 16v cap on the power supply.

GB
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post #22 of 25 Old 01-02-2014, 06:54 PM
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Replacing with a 16v verse 10v may no make a difference in how long it lasts. The cap did not fail because it was a 10v cap, if failed because of the ESR increased over time. ESR is the the equivalent series resistance, effective a resister in series with the capacitor. The higher the ESR valve, the more heat it produces inside the capacitor, the heat leads to increasing the ESR which leads to a higher temperature. Also the higher the ESR the less effective the capacitor is at filtering ripple current, especially high frequencies.

Replacing the part with a 10v low ESR part is better than using a 16v part with a higher ESR. In the modern day switching power supply, it is all about using low ESR parts intended for high frequency switching power supplies.
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post #23 of 25 Old 01-02-2014, 11:39 PM
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Thanks for that additional information. I'll stick with my current order then. It should be fine.

GB
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post #24 of 25 Old 02-12-2014, 03:35 PM
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So, GB, how did that repair go?
One of my Replays is having the same symptoms you described, and the 3.3V line is low, at around 2.5 to 2.7 V.
I took out the C41 capacitor and measured it but it was in the 1900's which seems OK for a nominal 2200 uF.
So what next do you start taking the caps out one by one until you find one that is low?
How did you narrow it down to C41 did you measure all of them?
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post #25 of 25 Old 02-12-2014, 05:38 PM
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Most cap failures are not due to the capacitance being lower, it is due to a increase in the ESR (equivalent series resistance). To really determine which caps should be replaced requires pulling each cap and measuring not just the capacitance but also the ESR. Make sure any replacement caps are name brand low ESR type.
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