M8 threaded floor spikes. M6 to M8 thread inserts? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-23-2009, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I've purchased floorspikes in the wrong size from OregonDV.

They're great looking spikes, but they don't fit the Swans -- and the price jump to the proper thread size is more than I expected, so I'm looking for an alternate solution.

Anybody know where to find M8 to M6 threaded inserts?

Anybody have a lead on inexpensive M8 sized spikes?
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-05-2009, 07:53 AM
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I found these adapters at a local hardware store (like an ACE or Do it Best not Home Depot or Lowes), they are a stud that has M6 on half and M8 on the other half. I have also tapped the M6 (on the spike) to M8 with a tap set then used M8 Studs to mount the spikes to the speakers. I did this with spikes from OregonDV and Kef Ref 205 speakers.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-05-2009, 10:26 AM - Thread Starter
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How did you enlarge the spike threads from M6 to M8?

Thank you for the reply and info - the studs will work fine if I can find 'em!
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-07-2009, 02:21 PM
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I used a hand tap set and cutting oil (you can buy these at any hardware store). Make sure you get the correct pitch, here is a link to what they look like: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...0Tools-_-1E003

Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-04-2013, 09:20 PM
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4 years later, and I have a similar problem.

I purchased a set of speaker stands that come with M8 size spikes that are ugly, like, just plain ugly.

The spikes I purchased for the stands are M6 size so they have too small of thread size. They are designer spikes and I want them to fit on my speaker stands because they look much nicer.
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/speaker-cabinet-accessories/speaker-spikes/dss3-bc-black-chrome-spike-set-4-pcs.html


Would a part from this website or a similar website work for the conversion if I don't want to tap stuff and cut things?

Basically, I think I just need a little conversion piece that could plug into the speaker stand M8 holes and make a smaller M6 hole that I could put my M6 spikes into.

I was hoping Amazon might have something since I've never ordered from thorlabs before.

http://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=1745


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post #6 of 8 Old 06-05-2013, 09:00 AM
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I've ordered from Thorlabs before and they are a very legit outfit (but on an admittedly very quick scan, I don't actually see the specific M6/M8 adapter that you need).

One issue you may have is that any adapter probably isn't deep enough to allow your M6 threaded portion to be recessed to the depth it needs to be. The Dayton install diagram shows the threaded rod coming up completely through the enclosure base - all the adapters I've seen only have a 1/4 - 3/8 "pocket" for you to screw the spike into; you would then be left with either a too tall spike assembly (looks bad and probably doesn't have the required rigidity to provide a solid coupling) or you'll have to cut down the rod (which you're trying to avoid doing).

I'd be tempted to drill offset holes into the stands adjacent to the existing foot locations and to install the spikes as recommended by the manufacturer - you don't need to move too far away from the original locations and popping a 5/16" hole into the wooden base is pretty straightforward (and saves you having to mess with creating a new thread).

Edit: I just saw your stands in your profile - I was originally assuming that they were made of wood, or some other composite material that could be drilled to take the insert; is this the case? If not, maybe you could completely drill out the existing thread insert and use a suitable length M6 rod with a chromed "dome" nut (for aesthetics) + maybe a suitable washer on the upper surface of the stand, to attach the spike to?

.....then apparently you can sit back and enjoy ".....dramatically improved clarity, stereo imaging, and bass response"......what's not to like? smile.gif
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-05-2013, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGF View Post

I've ordered from Thorlabs before and they are a very legit outfit (but on an admittedly very quick scan, I don't actually see the specific M6/M8 adapter that you need).

One issue you may have is that any adapter probably isn't deep enough to allow your M6 threaded portion to be recessed to the depth it needs to be. The Dayton install diagram shows the threaded rod coming up completely through the enclosure base - all the adapters I've seen only have a 1/4 - 3/8 "pocket" for you to screw the spike into; you would then be left with either a too tall spike assembly (looks bad and probably doesn't have the required rigidity to provide a solid coupling) or you'll have to cut down the rod (which you're trying to avoid doing).

I'd be tempted to drill offset holes into the stands adjacent to the existing foot locations and to install the spikes as recommended by the manufacturer - you don't need to move too far away from the original locations and popping a 5/16" hole into the wooden base is pretty straightforward (and saves you having to mess with creating a new thread).

Edit: I just saw your stands in your profile - I was originally assuming that they were made of wood, or some other composite material that could be drilled to take the insert; is this the case? If not, maybe you could completely drill out the existing thread insert and use a suitable length M6 rod with a chromed "dome" nut (for aesthetics) + maybe a suitable washer on the upper surface of the stand, to attach the spike to?

.....then apparently you can sit back and enjoy ".....dramatically improved clarity, stereo imaging, and bass response"......what's not to like? smile.gif

Hey DGF.

Thanks for the info. I read the part you mentioned about possibly having too tall of a spike assembly.

I'm actually hoping to gain a little height, perhaps an inch or more by adding the spikes.

Also, the stands will be on a carpet, so it's my understanding that I will be defeating the purpose for using spikes, however, I think the looks of the spikes are so good compared to the regular ones, that I'm willing to sacrifice the clarity, etc. The way it will look would be Carpet, discs, spikes, stands.

Which makes me wonder, do spikes really make that much of a difference just on surround speakers which have small amounts of bass?

I'm just really liking the looks of some of the spike sets I've been browsing. I think they look very nice. My sub is on an Auralex Gramma but I was hoping that the surrounds would not benefit that much from being on a proper spike set-up. Any thoughts on that?

Also, good to know about that site in case I end up finding a part from there.

Something like this almost seems like what I need:

http://www.multibrackets.com/4487.shtml


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post #8 of 8 Old 06-06-2013, 11:11 AM
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The adapters look good! I still think that potentially having part of the spikes' threaded rod on view might look a little funky, but then again I'm just guessing on the length of the rod. The Dayton diagrams also don't show how deep the spike itself is internally threaded, so I'm really only speculating that the spike/spike-cone won't be flush with the base of the adapter (If the install diagram is to scale, they look to be about 1 1/4" long). If it looks bad, either buy a shorter M6 threaded rod (Ace/Lowes/HD/etc.) or take a hacksaw to it!

The whole purpose of spikes is to get a rigid coupling to the floor, so I agree with you, if you use a disc you're defeating the audible reasons for doing it, but they always do look kinda cool! I'd be tempted to do a comparison between using the spikes on discs or letting them push through the carpet into the subfloor - my suspicion is that you won't really be able to tell the different in sound quality......and if you're anything like me, I spend ages on tweaking my system only to get completely immersed in the experience once a movie starts - I'm sure the subtle difference between using spikes or spikes + discs or leaving everything alone will quickly disappear!

Even if there is no audible difference, but they look good, I'd say Go For It!

Dave
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