Help with Cooling fans & 12v trigger information - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 07-01-2010, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure if this is the right area, so if not, I apologize in advance.

I in about a month I am moving and setting up a brand new home theater for my living room. I will be running a Panasonic VT25 Plasma TV and underneath I have a TV Console ; and I've attached what I think is an ok layout for all of the gear within the TV console - please see attached jpg image. Eventually I may add a small HTPC and/or a Sonos, but those have very small footprints too.


there is plenty of room, the tv console is 65'' w x 27'' h x 20'' d. however, it has AWFUL ventilation.

So the question is - adding cooling fans, and should I drill a small hole or two somewhere in the bottom or back wall of the TV Console?

I have tried to research how 12v triggers work, but I am still getting a bit confused. I know there are USB Fans, but those will only work if that device with the USB slot is on, right? I would also prefer to not use the front facing USB ports for a fan, since then you'd always see a USB plug in there, and it just does not look very clean.

From my research:
Onkyo NR708 - has a 12v trigger out
Panamax MX-5300 - has a 12v trigger in and out as well as a front facing USB port
DVD Player - has 2 USB ports (1 front, one back)
Cable Box - has a USB port on the front
Wii - two USB ports on the back

Any advice would be great. From here, I am just about lost! The 12v trigger on the AVR is in the "Zone 2" area, so not sure if that is only a Zone 2 feature or if it can be used to turn on a fan anytime on the AVR is on. If the Panamax is "always on" since its a surge protector, if I plugged a fan into that 12v trigger, wouldn't the fan always be on? That may be overkill, no? Maybe just 1 fan is needed? You can see my headaches and confusion!

I saw cooler guys have small fans to place on top of a component plus the larger ones that you can put between components, I would be ok with either design.

Sorry for the long rambling post, but I could use an education!
LL
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-02-2010, 08:42 PM
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Don't quote me on this but if I understand you correctly you want use the 12v trigger to power the fan itself. From my understanding you cannot do this. You would think 12v out and a 12v fan it would work but the trigger has a low amp that is not meant for running fans and more for low volt low amp relays in a device that will trigger the power supply to the fan. From the options you displayed I would try the usb fans and see how they work but I would say they would not be able to keep up with the heat produced by a onkyo and a ps3.

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post #3 of 15 Old 07-03-2010, 12:18 AM
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ezlotogura,

I think TheCableMan may be correct and there are other ways to get AV fans to turn off and on automatically.

Here are a couple or threads on the subject. The second one is pretty long but, it has very good info and pictures. - Try wading thru it and you'll know a lot more when you finish.

For info on surge protectors, power strips and UPSs with Master socket and Controlled by Master sockets :
Looking for creative way to switch on A/V Cooler

DIY AV cooling info:
Add Cooling Fan to A/V Cabinet

More info:

I've been using one of these: Coolerguys Thermal Fan Controller Note in the description that you must also buy their AC-DC adapter.
(This method works fine but, for various reasons, I'm about the go the Master Controlled by Master route.)

This review could be helpful in choosing a fan: Xbit Fans Roundup

You might want to start with the graphs on page 28 one of which is: Flow & Noise

A lot depends on how hot your cabinet might get, how much room you have and whether the back is open, closed or semi-open.

"So the question is - adding cooling fans, and should I drill a small hole or two somewhere in the bottom or back wall of the TV Console?"
I'm not sure what you're asking. Are you talking about creating intake holes?

Later,
Dave
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-03-2010, 07:45 AM
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The 12v trigger on your Onkyo 708 is active when Zone2 is on--it's so you could trigger an external amp to turn on only when Zone2 is in use.

Does your cable box have a switched outlet on the back of it? If you go with smaller fans, you could plug your fan power supplies into the back of that.
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-04-2010, 12:25 AM
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I just edited/corrected two bad links in my previous post. No need to go back; here's the corrected part:

This review could be helpful in choosing a fan:

Xbit Fans Roundup

You might want to start with the graphs on page 28 one of which is: Flow & Noise
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-04-2010, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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yes, my cable box does have a switched outlet: instruction book found here

Again, since I am not an expert. If my cable box is plugged in (so the clock is on) but it is in the off mode (can't change channels, see any cable programming, etc), then the fans will not go on? What if I am using my DVD player and AVR to watch a movie, or using my AVR to listen to music for a few hours, etc? The fans will never click on since my cable box will still be in off mode?

Another option perhaps - I will be getting a Panamax MX-5300.

There are 4 outlets that are "always on". I am thinking of getting the Thermal Fan Controller you suggested or a programmable thermal fan controller and plugging that into one of the 4 "always on" outlets on my panamax, then plugging 2 fans into the thermal controller unit? This way, it will always have power to it, but the fans won't start to spin until it gets to a pre-determined temperature. Is this logical? Would this work?

The panamax also has 3 other banks with 2 switched outlets each, but the AVR would likely be paired up with my sub. Not sure what I'd pair up in a bank with the fans to make sure they are on when required.

The Wind - to answer your question, yes, I'd then have to likely drill holes, or as you more professional said, intake holes. The only hole on this TV unit is to allow cables go up to the TV for connection. It is big enough to run an HDMI cable up there and the TV power cable to my Panamax unit, but that is about it. So somehow, I need to create airflow in there, so I need to drill some holes. Where to drill, what size to drill, etc, that is where I could use some clarity. You provided a nice thread with about 18 pages, I can start using that as a springboard.

Thank for the links to the different ratings on fans too, very helpful!
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-07-2010, 12:20 AM
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I don't know how big intake hole(s) need be. Obviously, you want to let air in and let enough in so that your fans aren't being over taxed. Maybe someone else knows more?

Location of the intakes with respect to the fan(s)? - In most cases, the best location for the fan will probably be on the back of the cabinet, direcly behind the hottest component(s). My guess is that it might be best to have the intake as far away from the fan as possible while keeping them as close to on opposite sides of the cabinet as possible. You'll probably need to make some compromises though.

Fwiw: I have an undivided, 40 wide, closed back, wood cabinet. It has just one fan which I mounted very much like These. The only way air can effectively enter my cabinet is through the small slit where the two front doors meet. I thought a good approach would be to make a two, or three, inch diameter hole low, and toward front, on each side panel. (Then, finish the holes with a grommet plus a screen or faric or something.)

Because I'm getting a new satellite receiver/recorder soon and will have to rearrange the cabinet, I decided not to do anything yet. Instead, I just stuck a couple of decent sized rubber bumpers on the cabinet where the doors meet. This keeps the doors from fully closing and widens the slit to where I think things will be OK. The extra width of the slit isn't really noticeable.

Again, maybe others have good or even better ideas?
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post #8 of 15 Old 07-07-2010, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezlotogura View Post

I am thinking of getting the Thermal Fan Controller you suggested or a programmable thermal fan controller and plugging that into one of the 4 "always on" outlets on my panamax, then plugging 2 fans into the thermal controller unit? This way, it will always have power to it, but the fans won't start to spin until it gets to a pre-determined temperature. Is this logical? Would this work?

Yes, that's exactly how they're meant to be set up. - Don't forget the power adapter.
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post #9 of 15 Old 07-08-2010, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks for your help.

I spoke to the kind people at cooler guys, and they recommended this set up

Cabcool 1201-2 Two-Single 120mm Kits with Thermal Control

They also mentioned likely no need for other intake holes, etc. There will likely be a draft near the front glass doors, the sales rep said they are obviously not sealed, so air will get in there, so that should be enough to help with circulation.

I'll report back in a few weeks after everything is purchased, installed, etc.
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post #10 of 15 Old 07-14-2010, 11:39 AM
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I use one of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-011-_-Product
and wired like 15 high flow pc fans that were like $1-$3 each to cool my aquarium.

You'll be better off just getting a few and leaving them on 24x7 or you could easily connect the 12v trigger to a relay which'll send power to the fan power supply when the reciever is turned on.
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post #11 of 15 Old 07-23-2010, 01:18 PM
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Quote:


So the question is - adding cooling fans, and should I drill a small hole or two somewhere in the bottom or back wall of the TV Console?

I have tried to research how 12v triggers work, but I am still getting a bit confused. I know there are USB Fans, but those will only work if that device with the USB slot is on, right? I would also prefer to not use the front facing USB ports for a fan, since then you'd always see a USB plug in there, and it just does not look very clean.

This is what I did: I cut a hole in the back of my stand that has my AVR. It was getting so hot with that, my dish, and PS3 that the fake wood paneling was coming off because the glue was melting! I'm sure this is why my receiver eventually broke down. So I added a fan from radio shack and pluged it in on the switchable outlet. I put a dimmer in line to control speed and sound of the fan. This worked ok but my computer runs quieter and has 4 fans. So I bought a ac/dc converter 12v and wired up 3 fans 2 blowing out and one blowing in with an additional dust cover so I'm not blowing dust all over. I use a Ultra Smart 6-Outlet 6' Green Surge Protector and it has switched outlets i.e. when my TV turns on then my wii, avr, wd tv, baby monitor, acess point and ethernet splitter all turn on at once, and off etc. (PS3 will forget blue tooth if not left in standby and my dish needs to be on for DVR) your avr usually uses 65w on standby that is a light bulb 24/7/365! and $$
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post #12 of 15 Old 06-26-2011, 01:06 PM
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My projector (Mitsubishi hc9000d) has a 12v trigger output for power and I wonder if it would be possible to turn on a couple of fans I have setup it. The projector is on a small closet room with a couple of small windows (one for the lens on the front and one on the side near the projector exhaust) and it could get hot in that room with the projector turned on that's why I have a couple of (exhaust) fans on the side window to get the warm air out. The fans are currently powered by 12v power adapter plugged into an outlet and it's always on. So, I wonder if it would be possible to use the projector's trigger output to power on the exhaust fans so that they won't be running all the time and how would I go about doing it? Thanks.
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-26-2011, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis Medina View Post

My projector (Mitsubishi hc9000d) has a 12v trigger output for power and I wonder if it would be possible to turn on a couple of fans I have setup it. The projector is on a small closet room with a couple of small windows (one for the lens on the front and one on the side near the projector exhaust) and it could get hot in that room with the projector turned on that's why I have a couple of (exhaust) fans on the side window to get the warm air out. The fans are currently powered by 12v power adapter plugged into an outlet and it's always on. So, I wonder if it would be possible to use the projector's trigger output to power on the exhaust fans so that they won't be running all the time and how would I go about doing it? Thanks.

Well you might just have to RTFM on this one. Specifically how much current (amps) or power (watts) this connection can put out.
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-07-2011, 06:16 AM
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Awesome info, just bought a few USB cabinet fan kits from them...thanks guys.
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-09-2011, 06:36 AM
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Quote:


I wonder if it would be possible to use the projector's trigger output to power on the exhaust fans so that they won't be running all the time and how would I go about doing it?

Use a relay.
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