the charging circuit is designed to charge the batteries the device was designed to use. You're going to alter the design, how do you know the charging circuit will work with this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAM64 /forum/post/20337338
the charging circuit is designed to charge the batteries the device was designed to use. You're going to alter the design, how do you know the charging circuit will work with this?
Because the system is designed to be able to accomodate additional batteries. It even has a plug on the back for an additional battery pack. (that you're supposed to buy from them)
Rather than buying their expensive batteries which they brand as "proprietary", which are nothing but lawnmower batteries, I'm going to replace them with larger batteries that cost less
Advance Auto Parts has a deal on reconditioned batteries for $30 each. Buy a couple of them and you can extend the runtime.
I got that from your first post. Are you sure the charger can handle the increased load?
You realise that most external battery packs for apc ups's are in series with the internals, meaning that the charging currnt stays the same, but the voltage has to increase.
The batteries in all the UPS systems I have are gel cell. They are NOT sealed lead acid batteries. The charging specs are different for the 2 chemical compositions as are the charging rates.
It's a 24V sealed lead acid battery pack. That means I would have to run two batteries in series to double the voltage to 24.
UPC battery backups can come in either 12V, 24V, or even 48V systems. By running them in a combination of parallel, series, or series-parallel, you can create a battery bank large enough to suit your needs.
It's not so much the charging circuit that's the issue, it's the A/C circuit that is often prone to overheating, especially in the smaller units which are only designed to be run for 10-15 minutes at a time.
The original battery pack has a rating of 17 amp/hours. The batteries I'm going to be replacing it with have a rating of 48 amp/hours each. So, hopefully, I'll be able to at least quadruple the runtime of this unit, given it's not running at full load the entire time.
Please note I am not responsible for anything that happens because you read the article and that includes having a small hydrogen explosion or overheating and causing a fire. Use the article above and perform any UPS modifications at your own risk. Remember to accurately calibrate the unit after battery replacement (again at your own risk). Even reading this append is at your own risk.
I know car batteries and gel cells are not the same. The thing is, the replacement battery for this UPS is a sealed lead acid battery. (see the link to the spec sheet I already posted) Which is similar enough to a car battery to be able to use one (in this case two--wired in series) as a replacement for increased runtime.
The defensive response was because you're acting like a jackass instead of contributing helpful posts to this thread.
Originally Posted by Gizmologist
The batteries in all the UPS systems I have are gel cell. They are NOT sealed lead acid batteries. The charging specs are different for the 2 chemical compositions as are the charging rates.
Check with a battery manufacturer. Technically they are both lead acid batteries BUT they require different charger specs and have different current supply rates.
BTW Homer, YOU can lay sole claim to the title of jack*** regarding the post. Since you want to present that you already have the knowledge, there was no reason for your original query.
Please be my (our) guest and wire up any battery you like.
My question wasn't how to wire up a UPS, it was if anyone had done it to see what their setups were like. What is the title of this thread again?
I know how to do it, and I dont need any snotty, unsupported responses. I'd appreciate some input based on experience, but if you haven't done one before, or you don't have anything constructive to share in this thread, then go argue with someone else over the Internet.
There are lots of different types of batteries. My whole point is to replace tired units with similar, yet larger and less expensive units to get a longer run time.
It works...(some better than others) They charge fine.. The only problem with charging is with the small 300w-500w ones that have a small battery that aren't designed to run for very long. Those won't charge up an optima battery! The larger ones in the 3-5 kw range, however, have larger charging circuits and are designed to accept additional batteries.
To the other people in this thread: Thanks for your patience and input as we get back to the topic at hand please.
In one data center I was, the 12v "car" batts were enclosed in a rack vault, it vented on top. One day there was a BAM!, good thing it was enclosed, it scared the heck out of me. The UPS guy came out to replaced the blown batts.
Long ago I looked into this and it appeared to be some risk with gas creation, and batteries leaking due to charging issue etc. I found a video where a guy did exactly as you described with a cheaper UPS and it worked, even though the author warned of many possible issues. He took some precautions like venting the system and buying a covered acid proof battery case like you use on a boat. I'm subscribing to this thread because I just bought a 2,200 VA UPS Smart APC last week on ebay from a local vendor. Mine has working batteries, but it is a depreciated unit, so the batteries are probably 3 years old and they are only supposed to last 4-5 years, so I'll be looking to either replace or customize in the future. Please keep us posted with what you decide or learn. There are deals to be had on these huge units because they are soo heavy and thus terribly expensive to ship so the used market lets them go for dirt cheap locally. I paid $122 + $8 tax for mine from a local ebay seller.
Originally Posted by Gizmologist
Check with a battery manufacturer. Technically they are both lead acid batteries BUT they require different charger specs and have different current supply rates.
BTW Homer, YOU can lay sole claim to the title of jack*** regarding the post. Since you want to present that you already have the knowledge, there was no reason for your original query.
Please be my (our) guest and wire up any battery you like.
Based almost entirely on the Amp Hour capacity of the battery. Other than that there's no real difference in chargers for Lead Acid batteries.
I know one thing I gotta do immediately is swap that stock fan out with a stealth computer fan. I plugged my APC 2200 va unit in tonight for the first time and the fan noise is noticable in my otherwise very quiet home theatre room. I'll mess with that this weekend hopefully.
I have installed high voltage and current UPS systems in our office. 480volt
3 phase AC supply with 3 racks of rather high current gel cell batteries to operate the server room, phone system, computer based card access system and video surveillance system.
But as you seem to have your panties in a wad for some unknown reason, enjoy yourself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea /forum/post/20339256
I know one thing I gotta do immediately is swap that stock fan out with a stealth computer fan. I plugged my APC 2200 va unit in tonight for the first time and the fan noise is noticable in my otherwise very quiet home theatre room. I'll mess with that this weekend hopefully.
I don't understand that. We use 1500VA APC UPS and all of them keep the fan off until there is a power outage. So, 99+% of the time, they are completely quiet. I'm not worried about noise in the event of a power outage.
yeah my 1500 va Smart APC is silent too, unless it is running off the battery. The 2,200 was not last night. I plugged it in and was around it for about an hour. Too loud. I will verify tonight that the fan is or isn't still on. It is possible that it was just charging the battery and so the fan was enganged, but I will say when I first plugged it in that fan sped up like a server fan for a second and I thought OH NO surely not! --- then it quickly quieted down to a pretty standard "80mm or 120mm full RPM fan behind a metal die cut grill" sound. Which isn't that loud and would be okay most anywhere besides a theatre room. Last night it was about twice as loud as my 60GB original phat style PS3 fans I'd estimate.
fan noise on Smart APC 2200 is still present after a full charge. It's not a broken fan or any louder than I would expect from a fan. It's just not a stealth fan. I'll swap it out and be happy.
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