Running wire in a ceiling and down a knee wall - room already finished :) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-19-2014, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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How does one do this? I need to add an electrical outlet and cable outlet in the middle of the ceiling.

Outlet location is about 6 feet from the knee wall. The slope from ceiling down to top of knee wall starts about 2 ft from the knee wall.
I have not determined the exact location of the outlets yet so I haven't cut into the ceiling. When I go into the attic space behind the knee wall one can not see up to the flat of the ceiling. Space is filled with bat type insulation.

I have a set of glow rods but they will hit the roof line and not bend down the wall. How do I get a line across so I can run my wires? I've seen the Magnepull but don't know if it will work between the paper backing of the insulation and the sheetrock and it is an expensive thing to try.

I'm sure others have had to do this so how is it done?
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post #2 of 14 Old 04-19-2014, 09:59 PM
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Cut and Patch the drywall?
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-20-2014, 07:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I did think about that but is isn't popcorn or smooth finish and patching would be extremely difficult to match.

Any other ideas?
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-21-2014, 06:58 AM
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Should be a straight shot, between the rafters.



I would use a stud finder to locate studs in the ceiling. Then I'd cut a single gang hole, and use the fish stix/glow rods through that hole, aimed toward the knee wall. The rods should deflect downward when they hit the ceiling. I would definitely use fish stix, to start with, rather than a steel fish tape.

Why do you think the fish stix will not bend down the wall?

Cut your hole as far away as possible from an adjacent stud, i.e. you want to angle the rod low, if possible, and avoid a vertical position. As long as you hit the roof at less than 90 degrees, it will bend down toward the knee wall.

If the roof is very steep, maybe the fish tape would be better. Or, if you're good, you can stab the rod up from the knee wall space, and catch it from above - but you'll need to calculate carefully to make sure you're in the same stud bay area. You can grab the rod above the ceiling with another rod from your hole, with a hook on the end.

You have to make certain assumptions about how the house was constructed.

If you can pass a rod up to the ceiling area from the knee wall attic, before you cut the hole, you'll be ahead of the game.

Another set of Harbor Freight rods (cheap, never used them myself) may help. I don't know how far it will be.

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post #5 of 14 Old 04-21-2014, 07:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. My ceiling is like your picture. In order for the glow rod to hit the roof line it will have to poke through the paper backing of the batt insulation and through approx 10 inches of insulation. Even if the glow rod makes it I doubt the cables and 110v line would make it back through. I doubt the paper would resist puncture by the glow rod.

I have a fish tape too but figured it would just curl between the joists.

I can't attempt any of this yet because I have to wait on the pj mount to see exactly where it will be so I know where to put the outlets.

Flat span about 6 ft. Angled span about 3 ft.
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-21-2014, 08:11 PM
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The rod should punch through the paper fine. If not, you can reach through the single gang hole with a knife or saw, or even go around it.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #7 of 14 Old 04-22-2014, 05:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I was thinking of pushing the rod from the gang hole to keep the rod flat under the insulation until it hit the side roof. That is where I won't be able to see the end of the rod. If I go from the side and push the rod up, it will continue going up until its own weight causes it to bend. I won't know where the bent end will be. Maybe once I determine where the outlet needs to be, it'll all come together.
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-22-2014, 04:18 PM
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-22-2014, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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That looks like a great plan. However, I have 10 - 12 inches of insulation on top of the celling and 10 inches in the angled sidewall. The insulation is batt type not loose fill.

I do appreciated all ideas. I'll probably get to try all in my quest.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-26-2014, 12:18 PM
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What Dropkick suggests will work, even with the insulation in the way. It's done like that all the time.
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-01-2014, 05:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Just wanted to post back and let you know I finished running the wires. I used a Magnepull - took less than 30 seconds to run a pull cord.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-07-2014, 02:19 PM
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Congratulations on using the magnepull. Next time you may want to consider the tennis pull technique [using tennis ball to pull cable], which I have used (see attached):

Vincentfam

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File Type: jpg TennisBall.JPG (1.50 MB, 44 views)

Last edited by vincentfam; 07-13-2014 at 03:00 PM.
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-07-2014, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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That looks like a great idea to span an open area. I'll have to keep that in mind.
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post #14 of 14 Old 06-18-2014, 07:51 PM
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I use the magnepull on my satellite installation job. Wonderful tool. I also use the Harbor Freight fiberglass rods a lot. I used the rods to run speaker wire for my front high channels in my 11.x system. I will be pulling more wire for overhead channels in the near future preparing for any versions of home Atmos systems. I have been pretty impressed with DTS neo:x and Audessy DSX in my theater room. If it had not been for the fish rods I would have had a much harder time with pulling the speaker wire. I will have to keep my magnepull in mind for some of the work too.

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Enjoying films in my home theater room more than I enjoy them at the local cinema. Better bass, better surrounds, better picture. Cheaper popcorn.
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