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post #271 of 2588 Old 02-20-2003, 03:02 PM
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James,

I love your speakers. I wish I could hear them, I bet they're breath taking. Thanks for the compliment and the advise on drivers!

I know the pictures aren't the best but the corners are actually beveled. I routed a 1/2 inch square rabbit into all of the corners before I veneered the enclosures. I then glued a 1/2" square section of bubinga in the rabbit and sanded it flush. I then veneered the cabinets and planned off the corners which exposed the bubinga underneath.

I was lucky enough to find this veener in 13 inch wide sheets so there aren't any seems. The veneer is curly cherry and I believe it's plain sawn. It was attached with hide glue and a vaccumm press.

I love the Dynaudio drivers and in fact the L/C/R speakers in my Theater are dynaudio MTM designs. I didn't photograph them because they are behind speaker grills so they are the raw MDF. No sense in wasting good veneer. It's good to know that there are equivalent drivers still available.

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post #272 of 2588 Old 02-20-2003, 07:48 PM
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Hey bomber,
Those speakers are gorgeous! Are those your own design?
Jeff

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post #273 of 2588 Old 02-21-2003, 06:05 AM
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Jeff,


Yes and no. The outward design is completely my own. The box design is based on the Dynaudio approved Serius design. I upgraded the woofer from the spec'd 17W75 to the 17wLQ. This change put a small spike in the impedance curve so I have to increase the volume. I did this by making the speaker slightly taller and wider. In addition, I wanted a stiffer baffle so I increased the thickness to 1.5" from 1" and that increased the overall depth of the speaker.


Thanks for the compliment.


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post #274 of 2588 Old 02-21-2003, 06:05 AM
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Jeff,


Yes and no. The outward design is completely my own. The box design is based on the Dynaudio approved Serius design. I upgraded the woofer from the spec'd 17W75 to the 17wLQ. This change put a small spike in the impedance curve so I have to increase the volume. I did this by making the speaker slightly taller and wider. In addition, I wanted a stiffer baffle so I increased the thickness to 1.5" from 1" and that increased the overall depth of the speaker.


Thanks for the compliment.


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post #275 of 2588 Old 02-21-2003, 06:52 AM
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Bomber said: I love your speakers. I wish I could hear them
_________________________________

Hi Bomber,
thanks. I have just finished tweaking and fine tuning the crossover and the voicing.

They sound great, and have met my grandest expectations. The sound stage is huge. The sound is fast, detailed and effortless. They are very dynamic, and have fabulous punch.

On the compromise end, the imaging is not as pinpoint as the better point source speakers. Also the design has very little deep bass. This is as designed, yet one can't help but expect bass from such large speakers, and the design does not provide that. This is why I have subwoofers.

Now I just need to apply the veneer and finish. Thanks for you descriptions on your finish.

James

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post #276 of 2588 Old 03-03-2003, 08:13 PM
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Calling JL:
How are the speakers? It's been a while since anyone has posted any build progress. I actually built my stands on Sat and Sunday. I have veneered the center stand and will try to get the other two finished sometime this week. I'll post some pics soon.
jeff

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post #277 of 2588 Old 03-04-2003, 05:23 AM
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Jeff,

This past Saturday I had the opportunity to start the veneering on the rear speakers. Unfortunatly, I have been very busy with work and it has been hard to find time to do anything.

I'll try to get a picture or two posted as I start finishing them.

Joe L.
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post #278 of 2588 Old 03-13-2003, 06:48 PM
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First let me say hello, i just registered.

now J.L. i have been following this thread and i just started glueing my own set of audax fronts, i have a couple of questions i hope you may be able to answer. my kit came with regular foam and a bag of polyfil. should i use that or get some egg crate foam? also it looks like there is no foam under or around your crossovers is there foam directly opposite the crossovers? also, i don't solder the drivers and tweeter to the wires right?

thanks,

jassen
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post #279 of 2588 Old 03-13-2003, 09:54 PM
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Originally quoted by Jassen:

"also, i don't solder the drivers and tweeter to the wires right?"

Correct! Don't solder the wires to the drivers - in most cases, this will VOID any warranty you might have with the drivers. I use the usual female spade connector to attach to my drivers but I 'snug' them up a little with a pair of pliers, so they have a slight friction fit. I do however, solder all my female connectors to their wire (I hate relying on just a crimp fit!).

Keep building - you won't regret it. They sound great - especially at their price point (IMHO).

robtec88
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post #280 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 04:17 AM
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Thanks,, this is also my first time reading a crossover schematic and it looks like i should have one positive lead coming from the tweeter and one positive lead coming from the driver both connecting to the positive connector on the input cup, same with the negative, one from the driver and one from the tweeter to the negative on the input cup. Since using a female spade connector is the way to go i assume there will be enough room to attach both wires(positive or negative) to the one connector and then slide it on to the appropriate input cup connector.

thanks again
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post #281 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 04:44 AM
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jassen,

You have good eyes... There is no acoustic foam on one side of each speaker. (the side the crossovers is mounted on) There is foam on the side opposite the crossovers. This is by design and is mentioned in the plans on the audax.com web site.

I emailed Joe D'Appolito and asked if the reason for leaving off the foam on one side was to make mounting the crossovers easier.

He replied that the reason was so the cabinet would not be over-damped. (it had nothing to do with crossover mounting ease)

I found a package of quick connect terminals at the local Auto Zone parts store. They needed a slight loosening (as opposed to the tightening that robtec88 did to his) otherwise they were so snug I was afraid to push hard enough to put them on the speakers. I did not want to break the speaker terminals.

I too soldered the terminals to the ends of the wires.

I seem to remember that Jeff Hovis had the same question about the foam and fiberfill. Look back a few messages and you should find it. He was told by the folks at madisound.com that the thinner foam in combination with the fiberfill was equivalent to the thicker eggcrate foam. If you want eggcrate foam, you can pick up a foam mattress pad from Walmart like I did for about $14.

Keep us informed as you build your speakers... we'd love to see pictures. (hint...hint)

Joe L.

PS.
I soldered the wires to the input cup. There is plenty of room to attach the multiple sets of wires there.
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post #282 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 06:50 AM
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sorry to be asking so much so quickly but, how about reverse flush mounting? instead of rabbeting into to MDF if i veneer the front with a layer of wood thats about the same thickness as would be the depth of the rabbet. this would also make the front baffle thicker but that shouldn't be a problem, right?

thanks

ps - i don't have a digital camera so i'll have to take pictures the "old fashion" way and scan them in
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post #283 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 07:21 AM
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Jassen, I just found out yesterday that for an extra, minimal, charge, even Wal Mart will scan the images and put them on CD or on a secure web site so you can get them.

Scott
 

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post #284 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 10:54 AM
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After moving in to my new house a month ago it seemed as if every weekend required my wife and I to go somewhere or unpack something.

This past Sunday I was able to start finishing my Audax center and start on the Sonosub. Of course wouldn't you know that as soon as I started to go to the garage Sunday afternoon, my wife's friend and her husband show up. That ate up a good two hours.

I was able to get the caps cut and glued for the sub, as well as, the center channel holes and seems puttied. I don't get to use veneer like I had planned due to a couple of unforeseen financial emergencies. I'm going to have to try and get the mdf as smooth as possible so I can either laquer or paint it. I'll let you know how it turns out as I think I can get this done this weekend. No more money for painting the house, at least until my wife gets paid next week, so I'm free to work. Assuming my son is no longer sick by then.

I'm really itching to get this done as my current sub seems so puny after seeing the size of the sonotube.
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post #285 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 11:44 AM
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Jassen,
I also built the LCR from Audax. I substituted egg-crate foam for the flat gray stuff that came with the kit. Also, you will have two bags of polyfil. You'll only need it in the sub-enclosure inside the center channel. Also, the rear panel of the sub-enclosure will need foam. You'll also add foam in the main cabinet to the sides, rear, top or bottom (not both). I applied my foam to the top and attached the XOs to the bottom. Use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive to attach the foam. For the L &R speakers I also used egg-crate foam. You'll attach foam to the top, bottom, rear and one side of the L & R speakers.

I used Titebond II wood glue on the cabinets. I also have a nail gun and a 2hp air compressor and I used that in some areas. However, when I wanted the tightest fit possible, I used glue and countersunk screws.

Seal all the enclosures with caulk. I used black caulk so I could see it better. Pay close attention to the posts that JL and I made about cutting the driver holes for flush mounting.

Study the XO schematic and make sure that all the soldering points match up. I didn't connect my midrange driver correctly at first and it didn't work. Once I took the driver and XO out, I discovered my mistake and was amazed at how good it then sounded. There is a technique to soldering that requires you to heat the area to be soldered and not the actual solder (something like that). I also used connectors on my driver inputs and used my crimper to attach them. I finally finished my speaker stands and will have them stained this weekend with pictures to follow.
jeff

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post #286 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 11:55 AM
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It's good to see this thread revived. You'll find the subwoofer construction to be pretty easy. I build my sonosub in a couple days and you can do it easily in a weekend (if you have the time). I built a 15" sub in an 18" tube. It has a 2" granite base and is 71" tall. It's the most bang for the buck you can build yourself for $500. I've now got to make some acoustic corrections in my room that I've discovered. I need to repair some rattles and make some acoustic panels.
jeff

Quote:


Originally posted by darthopus
After moving in to my new house a month ago it seemed as if every weekend required my wife and I to go somewhere or unpack something.

This past Sunday I was able to start finishing my Audax center and start on the Sonosub. Of course wouldn't you know that as soon as I started to go to the garage Sunday afternoon, my wife's friend and her husband show up. That ate up a good two hours.

I was able to get the caps cut and glued for the sub, as well as, the center channel holes and seems puttied. I don't get to use veneer like I had planned due to a couple of unforeseen financial emergencies. I'm going to have to try and get the mdf as smooth as possible so I can either laquer or paint it. I'll let you know how it turns out as I think I can get this done this weekend. No more money for painting the house, at least until my wife gets paid next week, so I'm free to work. Assuming my son is no longer sick by then.

I'm really itching to get this done as my current sub seems so puny after seeing the size of the sonotube.


jeff

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post #287 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 07:23 PM
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ok newbie question,,on the drivers which one of the two male connectors is the positive and which is the negative? the wide one or the skinny one,,same question applies to the tweeter? on the drivers there is one connector painted red i assume thats the positive,but the tweeter isn't color coded.

thanks
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post #288 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 07:38 PM
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I used the wide one as positive. I also used blue electrical tape on each end of all the internal wiring to mark positive.

jeff

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post #289 of 2588 Old 03-14-2003, 10:17 PM
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My tweeters were not marked either, however the Audax web site at this link has a dimensional drawing of the tweeter that clearly shows the wider terminal as being the positive terminal.

Joe L.
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post #290 of 2588 Old 03-15-2003, 05:23 PM
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Guys, I finally finished my speaker stands and have added pictures. I'll get the center channel and sonosub pages updated by tomorrow. The front channel page is below with new pics.
http://lotuseuropa0.tripod.com/audax...peakers001.htm

jeff

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post #291 of 2588 Old 03-17-2003, 05:18 AM
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Two last questions,, I think. Is it ok to have the polyfil touching the crossovers? Also the kit came with one bag of polyfil and i stuffed both enclosures but i still have about half a bag left should they be stuffed more or less? I did see the post about only the center channel needing the stuffing but why would the L&R kit come with stuffing?I did glue the sheet foam in place already.

thanks again
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post #292 of 2588 Old 03-17-2003, 07:40 AM
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I only stuffed the sub-enclosure in the CC. I used probably less than 1/4 bag. Everything else I lined with egg-crate foam where indicated. I believe Madisound told me not to stuff anything but the sub-enclosure. Did anyone else stuff the main cabinets?
jeff

Quote:


Originally posted by Jassen
Two last questions,, I think. Is it ok to have the polyfil touching the crossovers? Also the kit came with one bag of polyfil and i stuffed both enclosures but i still have about half a bag left should they be stuffed more or less? I did see the post about only the center channel needing the stuffing but why would the L&R kit come with stuffing?I did glue the sheet foam in place already.

thanks again


jeff

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post #293 of 2588 Old 03-17-2003, 12:41 PM
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The plans on Audax' site say to only stuff the sub enclosure in the center channel.

Update,

I have the Sub almost done. It was very wet in central california this weekend and the glue took a long time to cure. Hopefully I'll be able to get the last cap glued tonight or tomorrow and be able to enjoy serious bass. I wasn't able to finish the center channel as I spent all my time on the sub. Things always seem to take longer than you plan don't they?

I'll try to get some pictures up soon.

Don
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post #294 of 2588 Old 03-18-2003, 10:43 PM
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Here's a pic of the sub. Right now both caps are glued and painted. Tomorrow I'll glue the pegs for the base and coat it with some clear matte finish. By Thursday it will be done minus the cloth that will surround the cylinder.

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post #295 of 2588 Old 03-19-2003, 02:11 PM
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Fascinating read! All of you guys are commended for your work and the apparent ease you seem to make it. Currently, I'm beginning my homework for building speakers and looking forwards to this project.

Just a couple of questions:

Joe L. - you mention a computer software where you can model crossover based upon driver specs. Can you tell me what software & vendor is?

2nd - For those whom made the audax speakers, are the designs you used adaptable for amp bridging?

Regards,

Ron C.
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post #296 of 2588 Old 03-23-2003, 06:56 AM
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wxone,

First, I have not used any of the following software... I simply searched using Google and compiled a few links. Your Results May Vary...

I built the Audax Home Theater speakers and used their published design. The only change I made to the published design was to make cabinet front and rear baffles 1 1/2 inches thick and then to make the front L/R enclosure two inches less deep and a bit over four inches taller (keeping the internal volume the same) to keep them from protruding too far into the room.

Results of my Google Search
First, Adire supplies a version of LspCAD for Adire Drivers that will allow you to design enclosures for their drivers. It is a possibility if you are considering them. I have a 15 inch Tempest Subwoofer waiting for me to find some spare time and a length of 18 inch Sonotube. I'll be using that software to optimize that enclosure.

For other vendor's drivers, you will need a program that either has them defined in their database of driver parameters, or one that allows you to input the parameters of your own drivers.

One of the programs mentioned a lot is LspCAD. The full version is available at this link to LspCAD. Although it is not free, there is a demo to allow you to determine if it might work for you.

Another possibility I found was Speaker Workshop It is freeware.

A third I found was Loudspeaker Lab It seems to have a demo mode you could try.

Yet another loudspeaker design program mentioned often is WinSpeakerz
They have several demo's available for download featuring drivers from several vendors.

One more is winISD. It is freeware.

A great page I found that listed most of these programs (and a few others) in addition to links of interest to DIY builders was DIY Loudspeaker Resource Page

As you start on your DIY Loudspeaker learning curve, you have plenty to read and absorb. There are support forums to help the beginner... and the experienced. Even after building the Audax HT speakers, I feel like I am a lot closer to "beginner" than "expert." Like you, I leveraged the experience of published and respected "experts" as I started on my project.

Lastly, I am used to hearing the term "bridged" when referring to amplifiers. It is used to double the available peak-to-peak voltage to get more power to the speakers. In that respect, almost any loudspeaker, including the Audax speakers, that has both input terminals isolated from ground may be used.

Hope this helps...

Joe L.
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post #297 of 2588 Old 03-23-2003, 08:25 PM
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Finally, I added the last two pages to my center channel site with pics of the stand, stain and grille:
http://lotuseuropa0.tripod.com/audax_center001.htm

jeff

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post #298 of 2588 Old 04-04-2003, 08:33 AM
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Thanks Joe!

Sorry for the disappearing act! Very busy at the office and was away for a couple of weeks in training.

Very helpful info! I ordered Vance Dickason's "The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, 6ed." as a primer. I going to tryout all of the software you mention and use the one that works best with me.

We're currently remodeling our half-finished basement that includes guest room, quiet room (a reading room for my wife), and our florida room; and building a new rec room for my son and a wine cellar (for myself of course!)
My contractor is doing all the framing, drywalling & flooring; while I handling all the electrical work and painting. The $$$ saved will fund all the materials I need for the speaker building endeavor! The info you provided will definitely help in where to properly applied my cash resources.

Thanks again!

Regards,

Ron C.
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post #299 of 2588 Old 04-28-2003, 01:53 AM
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My DIY speaker building was interrupted with other home maintenance items taking much higher priority. (Let's see... a second major ice storm, many trees down on property, this time only four days without power, folllowed by never ending rains... flood in basement caused by tree root clogged curtain drain pipe...)

Now that those are in the past and I have a bit more free time, construction is again in progress. Several pages back in this thread, I posted images of the Audax HT rear speaker enclosures being clamped and glued. At that point, they were almost ready for veneering.

Several months later... After installing the crossovers, adding egg-crate acoustic foam, and a bit of sanding, I applied red oak veneer using the dried yellow glue and hot iron technique.



Waiting for a dry weekend day, I was able to take them outside to apply several coats of black anailine dye. They are starting to look pretty good now.


Next will be several coats of PolyCrylic finish. (At least I don't have to worry about reflections from the nearby screen with the rear speakers)

Joe L.
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post #300 of 2588 Old 04-29-2003, 08:48 PM
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I'm new to HT. I'm currently in the process of setting up a system in our living room and was looking at Polk, Infinity, and Boston Acoustics when I talked to one of the electrical engineers at work. He showed me the error of my ways and I'm convinced that I could easily build a set of HT speakers that dollar for dollar, put the retail speakers to shame. I've only been searching the web for a few days now reading up on speakers and I quickly learned that my best bet was to build a HT system from a proven set of plans rather than try to design my own. I discovered this kit and through lots of searching found this great web site. I've really enjoyed reading all of the posts and I feel like this Audax kit is within my price range (unfortunately not my wife's price range, she wanted to do something else with the income tax check! ) and my capabilities. I wish I had the time to make boxes as nice as Joe's, but between work, cycling, and my other chores I think it is best that I purchase the boxes.

Well enough rambling and onto my questions.

1. Does anybody else sell the Audax kits with assembled boxes besides Madisound? I like the kit they have and the boxes, but I would prefer the boxes come assembled including the veneer but without a finish so I can stain them to match the rest of my furniture. Madisound said they can only do this when they place another order for boxes from their supplier and that could be a couple of months. If I wait that long I might spend the money on something else!

2. How well/bad do the front speakers work when sandwiched between the TV and the wall? I have a TV recess in the wall with about 18 inches of room on either side of my 42" TV. I will have approximately 2 feet behind the speakers to the rear wall, but not much room on either side. The front speakers will also be angled some to point toward the couch so they will not be square with a wall.

3. What methods have people used to mount a 45-50 lbs. center over the top of their TV? I'm pretty sure the TV won't support it and I have a sloping ceiling that is over 15' high above the TV so ceiling mount is out of the question.

My Loudspeaker Design Cookbook should be in tomorrow, so I will have plenty of reading to do. Thanks for all of the great posts and let us know how the system sounds when you get it all complete Joe!

Thanks,

Chris
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