Very High Quality DIY speakers anywhere? - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 2588 Old 12-19-2003, 02:13 PM
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Thanks for the links guys

David L
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post #902 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 11:17 AM
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Thanks Dan and Jim.

jeff

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post #903 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 11:51 AM
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Anyone know where I can get material to make a 1.75id port? HD doesn't have PVC in that size. I need this for my MBOW1 project. If I add the bass modules, I can either plug them or replace the rear panels.
jeff

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post #904 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 12:12 PM
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Did you check the irrigation supplies isle? I think they might have that size in that section. Also, the grey electrical conduit (the pvc kind) might be available in the electrical section in that size. Seems I've seen it there before....

Mike
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post #905 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 12:19 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Jeff Hovis
Anyone know where I can get material to make a 1.75id port? HD doesn't have PVC in that size. I need this for my MBOW1 project. If I add the bass modules, I can either plug them or replace the rear panels.
jeff

Have you been following the posts on the MAD board? Ted Smith posted some pics of a finished MB01 that shows internal construction.

Edited to remove reference to port - I had a brain fart.
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post #906 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 12:43 PM
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How about part number 260-321 at PE? It will be close enough, I think.
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post #907 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 02:17 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by Jeff Hovis
Anyone know where I can get material to make a 1.75id port? HD doesn't have PVC in that size. I need this for my MBOW1 project. If I add the bass modules, I can either plug them or replace the rear panels.
jeff

Here you go, any size OR color that you may want. They are however acrylic tubing, and not PVC. Not that it should make any difference for a speaker port though. Unless there is a problem of over time that the acrylic tubing may do something bad like deteriorate in some way, and that PVC would not.

http://www.k-mac-plastics.net/acrylic-tubes.htm

http://www.ridoutplastics.com/10to175tube.html
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post #908 of 2588 Old 12-20-2003, 08:37 PM
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Thanks guys. I missed that 1-7/8" port at PE. Also, thanks for the link to the other MBOW1 project on the Madisound board.
jeff

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post #909 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 05:23 PM
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Some may remember that a while back I saved all the Audax DIY Home Theatre pages to disk and combined them into one document. I produced and posted a PDF of this file, a surprising number of people downloaded it. The original post is here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...06#post2444306

There were however a few errors, some in the actual published plans themselves and some typographical errors transferred over from the site. These have now been corrected and I'm posting here a newer version of the PDF for download.

For those that are interested, I made a changelog to ensure I wouldn't forget to update parts;
Quote:


Page 2:
- Corrected "(See section VIII.)." To read "(See section VIII)."
- Corrected "requirements of 100 per channel" To read "requirements of 100W per channel"

Page 3:
- Corrected alignment of "Speaker Placement" header
- Corrected "flush mounting.)" to read "flush mounting)."

Page 6:
- Corrected "7.5"" on port interior baffle in diagram to read "8.0""
- Corrected "Top, bottom, sides and rear..." on same diagram to read "Top, bottom, one side and rear..."
- Corrected erroneous shorting wire in L/R Woofer Crossover Layout diagram

Page 8:
- Corrected polarities on Center Speaker Crossover Network Diagram

Pages 1, 4, 5, 7 and 9 onwards:
- No corrections

Still to do:
- Fractions STILL refuse to be rendered.
- Find correct font for diagram and replace "8".

It would be excellent if people familiar with the construction could run over the file in their own time and just check I haven't missed/misunderstood anything.

Jeff, your site with pictures of your speakers is down. Have you moved it, and is it possible to still get some construction pics?

I hope it's useful,
Matt

edit: File pulled due to last-minute error, will be re-posted in next few minutes.
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post #910 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 05:49 PM
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File as promised.

 

audax diy home theatre.pdf 428.6982421875k . file
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post #911 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 11:32 PM
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Wow, when I ordered that PE 15" subwoofer kit, a 19 1/8" X 19 1/8" X 19 1/8" cabinet did not seem big to me. Well it sure dose now after seeing it in person. And the 15" Titanic MKIII subwoofer itself, is impressive both in looks and it's weight. (this sucker is heavy) The amp is on the hefty side as well, although I am surprised by the total lack of heat sinks of any kind for the amp. The cabinet however I think may be a bit on the "weak" side as far as bracing goes. As it only has one brace inside it, that's only about 2" wide and 3/4" thick. And the entire enclosure is made from 3/4" mdf. I was thinking about buying their 3 cu ft "knock down" sub enclosure, as it's made from 1" mdf and cross braced. But that would have cost more to buy everything separate that way, by almost $100 more than what the kit was. And then, I would still need to glue & screw, and finish it. So in that case I may just build my own from scratch out of 1" mdf and cross brace it. As I think even with doing that, it would be cheaper than buying the "knock down" and all the other parts. And yet I still will end up with the pre-built cabinet that I got with the subwoofer kit itself.

Anyway I hope to have it up and running by this Friday (as I need to do some "room adjustments" to make it physically fit in..). And then I'll report back how it sounds.

But for now I'll show a few pics, of the parts in the kit. As their online pics don't show that much, either for the kit itself, or even for the separate various parts that are used to make up the entire kit.
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post #912 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 11:34 PM
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Like I said the driver is kind of "beefy".....
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post #913 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 11:35 PM
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A front look at the driver.
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post #914 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 11:37 PM
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A front look at the enclosure. (you can kind of get a look at how much of a brace there is inside, and it's not that much)
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post #915 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 11:38 PM
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And a cabinet look though the "amp" cutout.
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post #916 of 2588 Old 12-23-2003, 11:45 PM
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And a somewhat closer look at the brace itself. (Now I will admit, there is not a lot of room inside for the brace to be much wider than it is. After you take into account the depth that the back of the subwoofer protrudes into the cabinet, and the depth of the amplifier also) But a "cross brace" setup over the single it has, would have been nice. And I may even try adding a cross brace, seeing how the cabinet is painted, and it may not be that hard to , add, screw, putty, and repaint that small area that it would require to add it in.
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post #917 of 2588 Old 12-24-2003, 01:03 PM
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Johnla, I agree that you should either build something new, or see what you can do to add bracing. I would think they would at least have a brace going the other way, top-to-bottom as well. That would help quite a bit. Can you give me the kit number for reference? I wonder if there is a way to call them and order the kit minus this box and add on the other box kit? Would be nice if they could work that.

If I was doing this, I think I would scrap that box and build my own.

Scott
 

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post #918 of 2588 Old 12-24-2003, 01:47 PM
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Johnla,

I've seen other posts where stock bracing in subwoofers is improved by use of 3/4 inch hardwood dowels that are forced/glued between opposite surfaces in an enclosure. The dowels do not detract a lot of the internal volume, but add a lot of stiffness.

It seems that you have an enclosure already supplied with your kit. You could add a decent amount of hardwood dowel bracing from the inside, forcing them in place and using something like Gorilla glue to make the joints strong without having to use screws or other fasteners through the outer walls. (it swells up to fill cracks and voids) That way, no re-finishing of the cabinet is needed. Then, bolt the driver in place and judge if performance is satisfactory for your theater.

If yes... sit back, put on Jurassic Park, turn the volume up, and wait to see ripples in your guests drinks when the T-rex walks by on the screen.

If not, with a sheet of MDF and a weekend or two, and you will have an alternative enclosure. At that point, you can swap your driver and amp to their new home. In the interim, you can still enjoy a few movies.

Joe L.
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post #919 of 2588 Old 12-25-2003, 12:37 AM
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Quote:


Originally posted by SVonhof
Can you give me the kit number for reference? I wonder if there is a way to call them and order the kit minus this box and add on the other box kit? Would be nice if they could work that.

Yeah, the kit number is 300-764
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=300-764
And yes, what would be nice. Is if they also offered it in a version with the "knock down" box kit 300-729, along with the option 300-731 15" baffle.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=300-729
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=300-731

Quote:


Originally posted by SVonhof

If I was doing this, I think I would scrap that box and build my own.

Yes, I will either add more braces to the pre built one it came with. Or probably later on in the spring or summer make my own based upon the 300-729 knock down they sell. As I think it's a nice design, with the 1" mdf and sturdy cross bracing it has, but also somewhat overpriced for a knock down. If they would have had the option of taking the knock down, over the pre built for the same price I would have took that route. But when I priced it all separately, going with the knock down would have been almost $800. As you "lose" the advantage of the kits discount, and the knock down actually costs more to buy than the pre built & painted 3.0 cu ft box they now sell also (which is also the same one that came with the kit)

I do like the kits pricing, and the amp and 15" MKIII subwoofer. But I'm somewhat disappointed with the pre built box, but I think it's really going to need another brace added in. And I may even do as Joe mentioned, and add in by gluing in some 3/4" or 1" dowels or something, and then possibly "pinning" them in with my pneumatic brad nailer (as those would be easy to hide the brad nails with just a dab of ebony putty, and no need to paint over them). Before I even put it together this weekend now.
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post #920 of 2588 Old 12-25-2003, 12:55 PM
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Well, let us know what you end up doing and what you think of the kit once it is done and working. BTW, do you have a sub currently that you can use as a base-line in the room?

Scott
 

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post #921 of 2588 Old 12-25-2003, 05:38 PM
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hello
johnla
does mkIII fit in tempest enclosure specification. if so
here is link for box design.



http://www.adireaudio.com/tech_papers/tempest_apps.htm


BTW
the box i made for shiva 12`` adire specification which has 2 braces it really sound better than the box i bought$$$$ which is double sided and only 1 brace big one , i like sound from the box i made its very rich,

i finished the box , stained , light gloss in 3 hours next day was ready for action.


i would make another box, more sub , or if you don`t want the box ebay is there if you want to sell it.

safaa
more speakers you buy ,more happy you are
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post #922 of 2588 Old 12-25-2003, 08:52 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by SVonhof
Well, let us know what you end up doing and what you think of the kit once it is done and working. BTW, do you have a sub currently that you can use as a base-line in the room?

Yeah I will. If the Xmas return lines are not to severe this Sat or Sun, I will see what my local Home Depot has in the line of 3/4" or 1" dowels. Or better yet maybe another section of 2" or 4" wide MDF, notched to connect with the factory brace. Because I really think it should have some sort of cross brace, to lock the other two side walls together. A "notched" brace of MDF, glued to the factory brace IMO would be the best way. But it may not be so easy to do in a already assembled box.
I'm just a bit upset that they did not add a cross brace when they make them. As it would be so easy for them to do, and it would add almost nothing to the cost of making it.

I do have a sub I've been using for about the last 8 years or so, a 12"
Atlantic Technology 262 PBM. (A 12" with 150 watts) But it won't be much of a competitor, to compare it to this 15" unit. And I'm sure this "Kit" sub will blow it away, even if I did not mod it by adding a brace or a stronger enclosure for it.
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post #923 of 2588 Old 12-26-2003, 08:10 AM
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Hi Johnla,

In, my sub designs, I've used 3/4" dowel rods many times with good success. Certainly in that box design, the little bit of internal volume they'd take up will be insignificant. You shouldn't have any problem at all with this method - just a second opinion...
Say guys, in January, I'll be building a set of pretty cool inwalls (fully enclosed) for HT. I'll try to post some pics if you're interested.

Mike
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post #924 of 2588 Old 12-26-2003, 08:42 AM
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Does anybody have any opinions on the titanic diy subwoofer kits?
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post #925 of 2588 Old 12-26-2003, 12:04 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by M NEWMAN

Say guys, in January, I'll be building a set of pretty cool inwalls (fully enclosed) for HT. I'll try to post some pics if you're interested.

Yes Please

I ordered the drivers for the complete Audax HT System (14 in total) today, ouch
It made sense to order them in one go, the supplier gave discount for 5+ of the same driver, plus a £15 discount for the value of my order.

But still...ouch

Matt
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post #926 of 2588 Old 12-26-2003, 09:31 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by enthusiast of ht
Does anybody have any opinions on the titanic diy subwoofer kits?

Yeah, I just bought one.
Look about 10 posts up, to see what I think so far, and for some pics of the parts it comes with.
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post #927 of 2588 Old 12-26-2003, 09:39 PM
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Quote:


Originally posted by M NEWMAN
In, my sub designs, I've used 3/4" dowel rods many times with good success. Certainly in that box design, the little bit of internal volume they'd take up will be insignificant. You shouldn't have any problem at all with this method - just a second opinion...

Yeah, I'm thinking the dowel rod is what I will probably do. The loss of internal volume is not so much the issue, as much as not having anything I add hitting the driver or the amp is.

The only bad thing is.... If today was any indication, of holiday "returns" traffic. Then Saturday and Sunday will be even worse. So I may not get out to buy the dowels until Monday or Tuesday. As I HATE the traffic of the "returns and bargain hunters" after Christmas. And today I got a taste of that, on my way back from my physical therapy appointment this afternoon..
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post #928 of 2588 Old 12-28-2003, 10:11 AM
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After reading through the posts in this thread I was inspired to pursue my Shiva Subwoofer project that had stalled out. I finished it and right now its really growing on me. I'm providing a link to my webpage which details the construction.

Shiva Sub Project

I would really appreciate feedback on both the sub and the webpage design as this is my first attempt at both.

Thanks,
Rob

I'd eat...but then again I couldn't afford my electronics habit...
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post #929 of 2588 Old 12-28-2003, 02:52 PM
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Rob,

Your sub looks great. I'll bet it sounds even better. As a DIY'er, I know that lots of sawdust was created in the construction of your enclosure.

Even more impressive is it appears from your pictures that most, if not all of your construction was done in your den/family/living room. You must have a very understanding SO. You have easily earned the respect of most of the DIY'ers following and contributing to this thread.

By experimenting on scraps of wood left over from construction you can get exactly the finish you want before doing the sub enclosure itself.

Oh yes, your web-site looks pretty decent too. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Joe L.
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post #930 of 2588 Old 12-28-2003, 10:39 PM
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Rob, as far as web site goes, the one comment I have only stems from the fact that I am on dial-up and have not become one of the converted yet. If you make the images smaller (the ones you get when you click on a small image) you can still get all the info, but take up less web space and bandwidth(yours and mine!).

Scott
 

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