I NEED TO GET WIRED: Electrical Connection Advice - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-13-2017, 12:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I NEED TO GET WIRED: Electrical Connection Advice

I'd like some help on getting a Power Strip/Surge Protector to plug my gear into. I can't afford a Power/Voltage Conditioner type unit. So, I need the next best thing. Another reason is Convenience. Keep everything plugged into 1 unit. Instead of cords going here and there to a few different outlets.

I'd also like to change the power cords out too. The stock ones are generic for the most part. Serviceable, yes. But I might as well go a bit further in having all of my components have a better than stock power cables and connectors too. That way I can make them Custom Lengths. So that all of the power cords are not laying everywhere like a Drunk Octopus. But in neat orderly lines to the PS.

I do not need Exotic, Pricey, or Highly Reviewed Power Cables. As I don't have that kind of gear or budget. Just stuff that would work well.

I would like to buy the power cable in bulk. So I can create the lengths that I need.
As for the plugs, I would buy those with the cable. I would like them(cable) to be insulated as to not create upon each other. Some kind of interference? between them, if that's something to worry about. As my components won't all be the same distance from the power source. And they won't be in a rack. But on custom Cherry Wood platforms. That will sit on the floor. All made by a local furniture making shop. That had lots of leftover thick boards from building tables. So the power cables for my gear are going to get custom lengths. We get cables "to order", or DIY to length. Just the right length of speaker cable from speaker to power source. The same will be for my components to the power strip. As they all won't be the same distance from the source.

I don't have a budget because I know nothing about the subject at hand. But, if Hard Pressed, I'd say $250ish?

If anyone can post some DIY links. Articles, How-to's, Others post, Advice,etc. All would be welcome.


AMP: MacIntosh MC30 (C)
AMP: McIntosh MC2205 (L/R)
AMP: Emotiva XPA-3 (SURR)
PRE-PRO: Marantz AV 7702
SUB: SVS PB-1000

I Thank You All.
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-13-2017, 06:26 AM
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Post Interference

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Originally Posted by Thrill Killer View Post
I would like them(cable) to be insulated as to not create upon each other. Some kind of interference? between them, if that's something to worry about.
All power cables will have an electromagnetic field around them. No one power cable will interfere with another power cable.

The electromagnetic field around a power cable CAN interfere with the signal carried by an audio cable. This is more likely to occur if both the audio and power cables are parallel to each other. It is best to keep audio and power cables as separated as possible. If their paths do have to cross, have their paths cross perpendicular to each other.
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-13-2017, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
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@chieftec ,

Thanks for the tip.
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-13-2017, 10:27 PM
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First, get yourself some velcro cable ties to just tidy up excess power cables instead of spending money on building replacement power cables.

Second, for gear that has standard, removable power cords with IEC C7 / C8 / C13 connectors buy replacements to whatever length you need from Monoprice:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5279

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7671

And please, don't spend more than a few bucks on any power cords, period...

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post #5 of 6 Old 09-18-2017, 04:06 PM
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FIRST of all, you need to ascertain whether the (SINGLE) wall socket you intend to use is the usual 15-A Circuit Breaker with AWG12 Electrical Wire.....or if you are fortunate (or new) enough to be on a 20-A Circuit Breaker with AWG10 Electrical Wire [more typical of Kitchen circuits]. And THEN calculate the SUM of the Max Power [Watts or Volt-Amps] specs for ALL Components and convert to Amp Load [Amps = Watts/120 VAC]. FYI: McIntosh MC2205 Manual says 750 Watts (Max), which is 6.25 Amps at 120 VAC...but note that MC2205 uses a 10-Amp Power Fuse...which means that the Power-On In-Rush Current is likely LESS than 10-Amps....which is the Max Amp Load I would presume for this particular Component. [I have a similar Antique Marantz 250 Stereo Amp, whose In-Rush Current briefly dims the lights.]

If the TOTAL Amperage Load exceeds 15-Amps, then you will need to find ANOTHER Outlet that is on ANOTHER Circuit Breaker [shut down individual Circuit Breakers to ascertain which outlets are on each Circuit]. NO, in many cases you CAN NOT simply replace a 15-A Breaker with a 20-A Breaker....per NEC Code (and overheating safety constraints), you would ALSO need to make SURE that the Electrical Wiring is AWG10 (or larger). If you can't see wiring labels, you would need to SHUT DOWN ALL House Power and actually MEASURE the wire Diameter, using a Micrometer:
http://www.cerrowire.com/ampacity-charts
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...aZiI1rX8x1-9aQ

Personally, to avoid opening up each and every piece of Equipment, I would simply cut EACH existing Power Cord to needed Length and then reterminate with a NEW Power Cord Connector, which MAY need to be different to accommodate different size Power Cables. Also much less expensive, esp. if you aren't qualified to work on the insides of Electrical Equipment....where you MIGHT find a few surprises, such as EMI Filters/Ferrites, Thermal Overload Protectors and other items that you may find IN-LINE with the interior Power Cord.
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-18-2017, 04:26 PM
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For Rack Mounted Equipment [and Test Benches], we frequently used a 4 to 6-ft long Multiple Outlet Power Strip, such as any of these and simply fold-over and Tie-Wrap the excess Power Cord and either tuck it away next to the Equipment on the same Shelf or Tie Wrap to a convenient location (e.g. Power Cord going into the Rear of the Equipment):
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...et+power+strip

OTOH, you may want to use one or more of the usual Surge Protector Power Strips. You might want to consider using one with built-in EFFECTIVE EMI/RFI Filter, such as I discussed here:
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/81-o...ml#post2886337

You may also want to consider using a "MASTER" Device (which DOES have R/C Capability) to Turn-ON OTHER "SLAVE" Devices, esp. those that do NOT have R/C capability, using one of the fol. "SMART" or "GREEN" Power Strips (I only listed the ones with EFFECTIVE EMI/RFI Filters):
Anyone else plug their subwoofers into "smart plugs"?

However, since the McIntosh Power Amp may have an In-Rush Current of perhaps 10-amps, you MAY trip the 15-A Circuit Breaker in the "SMART" Power Strip when high Amp draw loads ALL come on at the same time. [FYI: 15-A Breaker in Power Strip is likely to trip BEFORE the slow reaction 15-A Breaker in the House's Electrical Box.] So you MIGHT need to use two separate Master/Slave Systems, turning ON first one and then the other. BTW: There are more sophisticated (and higher cost) Power Timing Control Systems if that ever becomes necessary (hopefully NOT).

Last edited by holl_ands; 09-18-2017 at 09:28 PM.
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