Add Cooling Fan to A/V Cabinet - Page 19 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #541 of 592 Old 12-12-2010, 09:58 AM
Advanced Member
 
palmfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 785
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Here is a picture of my solution for keeping my A/V cabinet cool...



4 SilenX 90mm computer case fans with speed controller (hidden behind cabinet). They are triggered on/off automatically by the AVR. These fans are just a whisper at 1' and completely inaudible from 2'.

The camera flash greatly exaggerates how visible the back of the cabinet is...
palmfish is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #542 of 592 Old 12-27-2010, 07:55 AM
Member
 
rustester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Have anyone used Notebook Cooling Pad with built-in fans for their A/V equipment? Will this be a good option in place of making changes to cabinet?
rustester is offline  
post #543 of 592 Old 12-27-2010, 07:57 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
dbone1026's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 11,296
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustester View Post

Have anyone used Notebook Cooling Pad with built-in fans for their A/V equipment? Will this be a good option in place of making changes to cabinet?

This is what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Profile-...3465447&sr=8-4

Cheers,
Damian

MSS.net blog (contributing editor) - http://www.mediasmartserver.net

Windows Entertainment and Connected Home MVP 2010-2012

dbone1026 is offline  
post #544 of 592 Old 12-27-2010, 01:22 PM
Member
 
rustester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbone1026 View Post

This is what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Profile-...3465447&sr=8-4

How good is it? From reviews I found that the fans don't move much air around. I am not too excited to pay $75 for something that work so-so.
rustester is offline  
post #545 of 592 Old 12-27-2010, 02:42 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
dbone1026's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 11,296
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by rustester View Post

How good is it? From reviews I found that the fans don't move much air around. I am not too excited to pay $75 for something that work so-so.

I don't know how to exactly quantify how good it is. I have my Onkyo in a cabinet with the Cooler sitting on top of it and haven't had any heat issues. Also, what I like about it is it allows me t o stack another device on top of (something I wouldn't do if I didnt have the cooler in between)

Cheers,
Damian

MSS.net blog (contributing editor) - http://www.mediasmartserver.net

Windows Entertainment and Connected Home MVP 2010-2012

dbone1026 is offline  
post #546 of 592 Old 01-09-2011, 07:43 AM
Senior Member
 
3fingerbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 323
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I tried reading through this thread some, but it was a bit too much information for me. So I apologize in advance for being under-educated on this, but I'm in a hurry and need a quick recommendation. I'm looking to buy a cooling fan for inside my AV cabinet. I want it to blow air out of the cabinet, thus I will mount the fan flush to the cabinet wall.

The fan must:

-be very quiet
-be USB or plug-in power
-turn on when a certain temperature is reached, and turn off when it is cool

At first I thought this Thermaltake fan would work, but I'm not sure it is thermal activated, and it looks like it has a speed knob protruding out that would prevent this fan from being flush mounted to a cabinet wall. Anyone have an alternate suggestion?

3fingerbrown is offline  
post #547 of 592 Old 01-09-2011, 11:08 AM
Senior Member
 
3fingerbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 323
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
After a bit of searching I found the solution from coolerguys.com:

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556082491.html
3fingerbrown is offline  
post #548 of 592 Old 01-10-2011, 05:30 AM
Newbie
 
mko1024's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3fingerbrown View Post
After a bit of searching I found the solution from coolerguys.com:

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556082491.html
I use three of those. One in each section of my cabinet. They work great and are very quiet.
mko1024 is offline  
post #549 of 592 Old 06-07-2011, 07:10 AM
Member
 
Dcmkx2000's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 113
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Here is a pic of my 360 in my stand (temp display while listening to music through NET was up to 57C then began to drop to 43...volume at 27).

[IMG][/IMG]

I am going to buy some 120mm fans and power them from usb cables. Any fans you guys recommend that move a lot of air and are quiet?


Which do you think would work best:

1) Cut hole in the back of the cabinet where the receiver is located, mount 1 fan in the hole pulling air out, then have the other fan sitting on top of the receiver pulling hot air out of the receiver

2) Cut hole in the back of the cabinet where the receiver is located, Mount 1 fan on the back panel of the cabinet blowing forward over the top of the receiver, then have the other fan sitting on top of the receiver pulling hot air out of the receiver


Any other ideas?
Dcmkx2000 is offline  
post #550 of 592 Old 06-11-2011, 04:23 PM
Member
 
Seawolfbronco's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just installed this kit from the CoolerGuys: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556092810.html
I couldn't be more pleased. Yes, I can hear it when there is no sound playing, but it is not obnoxiously loud. I also have an HTPC in the cabinet. The four 120s are louder than my very quiet HTPC. The thermostat works great. I mounted the fans on the back of a Salamander 339 with mesh doors. Not the most efficient air path, but it makes a noticeable difference.
Seawolfbronco is offline  
post #551 of 592 Old 06-13-2011, 07:46 AM
Senior Member
 
bricot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 236
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The Enermax Enlobal fans from Coolerguys are very quiet, can't hear them running, have to look and see if they are spinning. I went positive pressure ( i have glass doors on my cabinet to enclose them. Fan in the side blowing in and and one of the blower fans (made to sit on top of the equipment, draws air up through it). Your can hear those fans when its quiet. I have some holes in the back of the cabinet, filtered screens on the fans drawing air in, so the air thats blowing in should be relatively dust free.
bricot is offline  
post #552 of 592 Old 07-19-2011, 04:12 PM
Member
 
niceguymr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
This thread seems very informative. I thought I'd post my question here rather than start a new thread that way if someone else has a similar question, they'll find it easily like I found this thread.

First, my horrible MS paint illustration of where my AV Receiver will go:



My receiver will be in the bottom compartment. There is about 1" clearance between the back of the shelf and the top compartment. The front is encolsed by a solid wood door. (I will be using an IR repeater.) There is only a small hold near the top left corner where the cords go through. There will be an inch or two of space between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the shelf.

This thing really gets hot in there. I want to install a cooling system but I don't know if I should install fans blowing in and out, how many of each, and in which compartment. I'll probably go with something that coolerguys sells to keep my life simple, but I'm a little overwhelmed by all the choices.
niceguymr is offline  
post #553 of 592 Old 07-19-2011, 09:31 PM
Member
 
specd_out's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I have had a fan setup in my tv stand since i purchased my VSX 32. I hate heat when mixed with electronics. My setup is very simple.

I used a old PSU from a old comp. Grounded the motherboard signal wire to the psu's ground. This allows me to run the PSU with out the need of a motherboard. I just flip the switch on the PSU to turn the fans on.
I also had a old belkin laptop cooler. I opened it up and on one half there are vanes which where used to duct the heat away from the laptop. They are raised so it creates pathways that air can flow through.
I mounted two 120mm fans to that half then screwed it to the top of my cabinet where the AVR sits.
So now the fans sit about 1.5" above the AVR, sucking the heat right out of the top of the AVR and then blows it through the ducts on the laptop cooler and then directly out of the cabinet.

It made a huge difference, it went from the AVR being very warm/hot to slightly warm after being on for a few hours watching movies at high volumes.
Since I am using a PSU i can add numerous fans. So any additional amps or hots spots i can keep cool.
specd_out is online now  
post #554 of 592 Old 07-19-2011, 09:37 PM
Member
 
specd_out's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguymr View Post

This thread seems very informative. I thought I'd post my question here rather than start a new thread that way if someone else has a similar question, they'll find it easily like I found this thread.

First, my horrible MS paint illustration of where my AV Receiver will go:



My receiver will be in the bottom compartment. There is about 1" clearance between the back of the shelf and the top compartment. The front is encolsed by a solid wood door. (I will be using an IR repeater.) There is only a small hold near the top left corner where the cords go through. There will be an inch or two of space between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the shelf.

This thing really gets hot in there. I want to install a cooling system but I don't know if I should install fans blowing in and out, how many of each, and in which compartment. I'll probably go with something that coolerguys sells to keep my life simple, but I'm a little overwhelmed by all the choices.


I would recommend 4 120mm fans two for each shelf. have them blow out the back.
The reason I say 4 is because you mentioned that the door will be shut and that you will use a repeater. If thats the case then you need to move alot of air since there will be no flow through of air other then what the fans do.

Some will say that 120 are over kill but there is a reason i use them over smaller fans. The 120 will spin slower but move more air then a faster smaller fan. The slower the fan speed the quieter it will be.
specd_out is online now  
post #555 of 592 Old 07-20-2011, 04:30 AM
Member
 
niceguymr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 39
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by specd_out View Post

I would recommend 4 120mm fans two for each shelf. have them blow out the back.
The reason I say 4 is because you mentioned that the door will be shut and that you will use a repeater. If thats the case then you need to move alot of air since there will be no flow through of air other then what the fans do.

Some will say that 120 are over kill but there is a reason i use them over smaller fans. The 120 will spin slower but move more air then a faster smaller fan. The slower the fan speed the quieter it will be.

I know I said we would have the IR repeater, but we'd still try to use the equipment with the door open. Invariably what happens is that the door gets closed and sometimes we leave the equipment on for days without knowing (not producing sound output of course). Still, having no intake fans would concern me a little.
niceguymr is offline  
post #556 of 592 Old 07-20-2011, 09:18 AM
Member
 
specd_out's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguymr View Post

I know I said we would have the IR repeater, but we'd still try to use the equipment with the door open. Invariably what happens is that the door gets closed and sometimes we leave the equipment on for days without knowing (not producing sound output of course). Still, having no intake fans would concern me a little.

you have to be careful with having intake fans with exhaust fans. You want to make sure that you dont have more air coming in then going out. That creates heat pockets where air hot air cant get out. The idea is to create a slight vacuum by having more exhaust. So you dont have to have a intake fan for the cooling to be functional.
specd_out is online now  
post #557 of 592 Old 07-25-2011, 01:11 PM
Newbie
 
tpezanko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have a wooden Ikea A/V unit (I know, I know) and while I've taken care to space out all the devices in there that generate large amounts of heat (AVR, xbox, ATV, Tivo), it still only has a few small cutouts in the back (homemade, I needed more spaces to run cables).

Should I look into getting some smaller exhaust fans to put on the back of the cabinet to help cool things down? There's no front door blocking airflow, so am I getting enough airflow? My stand is some what like the one niceguymr so expertly drew out, in which the bottom shelf leaves some space in the back for air from the bottom to rise up. Without the front door blocking the airflow, should my equipment be relatively safe?
tpezanko is offline  
post #558 of 592 Old 08-23-2011, 07:31 PM
Newbie
 
Mad Bomber's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I put a 200MM fan in my AV cabinet under the dish unit sucking air in from under the cabinet also a 120MM fan in the back pulling air out. My AVR sits ontop the cabinet with a 200MM on it pulling hot air out. I got a 12V converter cut the end off and hooked up all the fans. Just make sure that the converter will handle enough amps for the fans.
Mad Bomber is offline  
post #559 of 592 Old 01-09-2012, 12:00 AM
Member
 
Stealth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 81
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Could someone advise what else I would need beyond the following to add 3-4 of these fans to my cabinet. It is 2 seperate cabinets put together so I want to do 2 fans per cabinet, one pushing in and 1 pulling out most likely.

I believe I just need an adapter to go from the power adapter to the fans and that should be it.

Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/USB-2-0-SATA-C...6094066&sr=1-2
Temp Controlled Fans - http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/ca...ctic-f-tc.html
Stealth1 is offline  
post #560 of 592 Old 01-20-2012, 06:53 AM
Newbie
 
RoughshorRod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
WOW! This thread has been a huge help.
Here is what I am solving:

The rear end of a Heathkit cabinet. Speakers are seperate cabinets.

Components are ~5-10 years old; SONY. New Polk RTiA3 will replace the 1970's era jensen speaker.

I'm still planning, but if anyone has extra ideas, let me know. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks to all the bright bulbs posting useful notes!!!

***maybe this will work
http://www.flickr.com/photos/codycoyote/6730900167/
RoughshorRod is offline  
post #561 of 592 Old 01-21-2012, 12:50 PM
Senior Member
 
Speed Daemon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Location, Location
Posts: 419
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 22
IME it's rarely necessary to use forced air cooling with HT systems. First of all the components are designed to work properly with a nominal amount of ventilation. Perhaps more important is the amount of dust and other junk that fans will stir up and drop on the equipment. I like to open up the cases of my various components and computers, and blow out the dust once or twice a year. Quite often I find there's nothing to clean out!

I use standard 19" mount Anvil cases to mount most of my equipment in, even at home. (They're there, why not use them?) The biggest concession that I make to cooling is to install a perforated plate over the bottom few RU to allow cold air that collects on the ground to flow into the case. The rest is done by the chimney effect that causes a column of hot air to rise up the back of the case, carrying away the heat and replacing it with fresh cool air to make a continuous cycle.

If I feel that it's really necessary to hasten the cooling process, I'll use an inexpensive 6" clip-on fan that can be bought at Walgreen's every spring. I'll position it to blow up and away from the case, and take care not to blow into the case.

If you have an A/V closet, you should add a vent panel at the bottom of the door, and a duct at the top of the closet to circulate the air. Run a length of sound dampening flexduct from the top vent to the attic, and attach an exhaust fan at the far end to keep noise to a minimum. An always-on, thermostatically controlled variable speed fan is ideal. Just set it up and forget it.

You get what you pay for.  For professional advice, pay the professional rate.
Speed Daemon is offline  
post #562 of 592 Old 01-22-2012, 11:30 PM
Member
 
Stealth1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 81
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'd have to strongly disagree with your statement. Unless the cabinet has tons of circulation the air becomes trapped inside and continues to heat up with nothing circulating the air. I have a cabinet which i've cut holes in the back to run wiring etc. yet with the doors closed the AVR, Laptop, PS3 all give off a large amount of hot air. I've even received a warning when using my PS3 for extended periods of time to turn it off for awhile due to the temperature.

A simple fan pulling the air out the back should suffice for most applications, I doubt it's necessary to run more than 1 per cabinet.

For anyone looking for a simple kit I think this is a pretty good one that's been posted before - http://www.amazon.com/Cabcool-1201-2...7303423&sr=8-4

If you want to DIY then this is what I put together. Total cost $49.90 Shipped.
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YNQS/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V6T5HW/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NPEBM4/ref=oh_o03_s00_i01_details (x2)
Stealth1 is offline  
post #563 of 592 Old 04-21-2012, 07:07 PM
Member
 
Sr20kidD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 55
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth1 View Post

I'd have to strongly disagree with your statement. Unless the cabinet has tons of circulation the air becomes trapped inside and continues to heat up with nothing circulating the air. I have a cabinet which i've cut holes in the back to run wiring etc. yet with the doors closed the AVR, Laptop, PS3 all give off a large amount of hot air. I've even received a warning when using my PS3 for extended periods of time to turn it off for awhile due to the temperature.

A simple fan pulling the air out the back should suffice for most applications, I doubt it's necessary to run more than 1 per cabinet.

For anyone looking for a simple kit I think this is a pretty good one that's been posted before - http://www.amazon.com/Cabcool-1201-2...7303423&sr=8-4

If you want to DIY then this is what I put together. Total cost $49.90 Shipped.
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YNQS/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V6T5HW/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_o03_s00_i00_details
-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001NPEBM4/ref=oh_o03_s00_i01_details (x2)

I did the same as I had all these parts laying around from all my previous pc builds. Except that now I am waiting on x2 200mm fans with red LEDs that I will be adding. Overkill maybe.
Sr20kidD is offline  
post #564 of 592 Old 05-07-2012, 08:38 PM
Advanced Member
 
tomandbeth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 723
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
FWIW, found this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o01_s00_i00

Which is used with a few computer fans and 12V power supply from Acopian (Model DB12-50). I place the switch in line from the A/C wall plug to the power supply. The power supply referenced above is 1/2 amp, but download the spec sheet and it'll help you find the one you need off Ebay.
tomandbeth is offline  
post #565 of 592 Old 05-13-2012, 07:34 AM
Member
 
B|G1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey!

I'm looking for 3 small fans I can use to cool down the equipment.

Any ideas? The media player is fanless and is sitting on top of my NAD C275BEE power amplifier so it is getting a little bit hot...

I want to mount the small fans on the back of the tv-bench.

It is important that they I don't hear the fan noise. They don't need to move THAT much air to keep things cool..

Cerwin-Vega, Onkyo & NAD 5.1 home cinema:
http://avforum.no/myhometheater/Mikaelft

B|G1 is offline  
post #566 of 592 Old 05-13-2012, 09:02 AM
Advanced Member
 
palmfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 785
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Here's what I used...

http://www.amazon.com/Silenx-IXAFCEX.../dp/B0030EZLSO



http://www.silenx.com/quiet.fans.asp?sku=ixp-76-14

No miscellaneous parts needed - it's plug and play.

I use a "smart strip" with my AVR to automatically turn the fans on whenever my AVR powers on. The fan controller lets you adjust each fans speed individually so you can slow them down if they are too loud (these Silenx fans are very quiet though - even at full speed I cannot hear the fans (I run 4) unless I stand right in front of my cabinet). The blue LEDs next to each pot are bright - I face them down on the carpet/floor so they don't glow behind my cabinet. A piece of tape would solve this too I suppose...
palmfish is offline  
post #567 of 592 Old 05-13-2012, 09:37 AM
Member
 
B|G1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by palmfish View Post


I use a "smart strip" with my AVR to automatically turn the fans on whenever my AVR powers on. The fan controller lets you adjust each fans speed individually so you can slow them down if they are too loud (these Silenx fans are very quiet though - even at full speed I cannot hear the fans (I run 4) unless I stand right in front of my cabinet). The blue LEDs next to each pot are bright - I face them down on the carpet/floor so they don't glow behind my cabinet. A piece of tape would solve this too I suppose...

Thanks!

I don't understand what you mean by "smart strip" Can you explain? Picture?

Cerwin-Vega, Onkyo & NAD 5.1 home cinema:
http://avforum.no/myhometheater/Mikaelft

B|G1 is offline  
post #568 of 592 Old 05-13-2012, 11:24 AM
Senior Member
 
TheWind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 374
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by B|G1 View Post

Thanks!
I don't understand what you mean by "smart strip" Can you explain? Picture?


Here are two different takes on Smart Power Strips. I have both of these and I think they often go on sale. There are many others too.

Smart Strip SCG4

APC BE750G Power Saving Battery Back-UPS

You'd plug your receiver into the master socket and your fan(s) into a slave socket. Leave the fan On. Your fan will now turn on and off just as if they were part of your receiver.

*Oh yeah, you can get the same results if you have a switched power outlet on the back of your receiver.

.
TheWind is offline  
post #569 of 592 Old 05-13-2012, 01:17 PM
Member
 
B|G1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Norway
Posts: 38
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWind View Post

Here are two different takes on Smart Power Strips. I have both of these and I think they often go on sale. There are many others too.

Smart Strip SCG4

APC BE750G Power Saving Battery Back-UPS

You'd plug your receiver into the master socket and your fan(s) into a slave socket. Leave the fan On. Your fan will now turn on and off just as if they were part of your receiver.

*Oh yeah, you can get the same results if you have a switched power outlet on the back of your receiver.

.

Thanks for the help!
Think I'm going for 4x IXP-52-14 fans because of the thin size 2 for NAD power amplifier, 1 for media player and 1 for decoder.

Cerwin-Vega, Onkyo & NAD 5.1 home cinema:
http://avforum.no/myhometheater/Mikaelft

B|G1 is offline  
post #570 of 592 Old 09-26-2012, 10:34 PM
Member
 
jekbrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Anyone have any tips on switching a standard PC case fan on via the 12v trigger on the back of my Denon AVR2313? Not looking to power the fan via the trigger....just tell the fan to turn on. I know it's possible and the AV cooler guy on ebay sells fan kits that include a module to do this....but he doesn't sell said module seperately as far as I can tell and I'd like to use different fans/speed controllers. Any tips?
jekbrown is offline  
Reply Tweaks and Do-It-Yourself

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off