My Moveable Projector Ceiling Mount - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-03-2005, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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When I got my PJ a couple of months ago, I mounted it on the ceiling using monkey_man's standard mount. Here's a picture:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501..._man_mount.jpg

monkey_man ceiling mount construction thread

I decided I want to be able to move the PJ forward and backward, so I could watch SD programming in a smaller picture. This lets me save the big 106" picture for movies and special HD stuff. So here's the mount I built:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/506...able_mount.jpg

It needs to be painted, of course. I put rails on the ceiling, and hung the monkey_man mount from the rails. It slides forward and backwards. I used adjustable L brackets to hand the rails, because it turns out my ceiling isn't level. The adjustable brackets allow me to move each end of each rail up or down a little, so I can keep the PJ level.

I can tilt the PJ up or down a little so the picture is close to the same height on the screen, and I'm currently using bungee cords to hold it in the tilted position. This works until I come up with something else. I know that this changes the geometry of the picture a little, but frankly, it doesn't bother me. If I could come up with a way to raise and lower the PJ I might go with it, but for now this works fine for me.

I'll probably either paint the walls a dark color, or get a white tube for the wires.

Comments welcome!

-Dan
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-03-2005, 05:25 PM
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What are the construction details of the slide? It's a bit hard to tell from the photo.
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-04-2005, 07:43 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, here's some more information.

The rails are what they call 2x2, but they're actually 1 1/2" x 1 1/2". They're 6 feet long. It's up to you how long they need to be. It just depends on what you want your minimum and maximum distance to be. I don't remember what kind of wood they're made of, but it really doesn't matter. Anything will probably work.

Here's a close-up of the mounting brackets:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/03_brackets.jpg

The brackets are actually for hanging drapes. I asked around at Home Depot for some adjustable L brackets, and the very helpful guy thought for a few seconds and took me over to these. They work great.

Use whatever lentgh bolts you need -- they have to be long enough to go through the rail and the L bracket, and be able to have a washer and nut on the end. I used bolts with rounded heads, but it would be better to use flat-headed bolts and sink them into the rails so the head doesn't stick out. When I slide the PJ past these bolts, I have to jiggle it a little so it doesn't get caught by the bolt heads.

I used a carpenter's level to get the rails level. I had to loosen the nuts and move the rails a little to get it level. You could probably use wing nuts instead of regular nuts -- it would make this a little easier. However once you get them level, you probably wont have to change them again.

Here's a front-on view of the rails:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/501/04_rails_front.jpg

The rails really only need to be wide enough so that the flange that holds the pipe to the board can fit between them. If you look closely, you will notice a nail in the board that the PJ is attached to. There's actually 4 of these nails. They help keep the board centered (sort-of) when I drag it forward or backward. I'll probably replace them with something better, but for now they work.

Notice also that I don't have anything on the ends of the rails to keep from sliding the PJ off the end. That's so I can easily remove the PJ whenever I need to. Of course, I have to pay attention when I'm sliding the PJ forward or backward, bit that's no big deal. If you're worried about someone else accidentally dragging it off the end, you could put a small block on the top of the rails -- small enough so you can lift the PJ over the block when you really want to remove it.

-Dan
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 03:06 PM
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Here is a similar idea in metal for those of you that hate killing trees. This one also has an anamorphic lens mount.
LL
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 03:21 PM
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that's pretty cool. Good job.
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian I Am
Here is a similar idea in metal for those of you that hate killing trees. This one also has an anamorphic lens mount.
That is *so* cool! You've accomplished what I really wanted to do -- I just couldn't envision how to get it done. Here's some questions:

1) What kind of brackets are you using to hold the ends of the rods? I can't quite tell from the pictures.

2) It appears that the only easy way to take the PJ off is to unscrew the pipe, right? It won't slide past the ends of the rails, right? (Not that I've needed to take the PJ off since I put it up.)

3) How did you manage to get it level at both ends? Is your ceiling level all the way, or did you have to adjust it somehow? If you adjusted it, how did you do it?

4) How smoothly does it slide? I wonder if some felt between the rails and the plexiglass might make it slide more smoothly? Or is it OK as it is?

5) Do you have any problems adjusting the image up or down on the screen as you move the PJ forward or backward?

-Dan
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 06:11 PM
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Whoa, sorry I did not mean to imply that was mine, grabbed those pics off a thread a long time ago when I was debating whether to build one. I will look and see if I can find the old thread somehow. Here are my guesses on the questions..
1)same conduit C brackets used throughout mount..buy them by the bag...cheap n easy
2)yes
3)rubber grommets would give you some level adjustments. His ceiling mount plate is pretty thick, you could thread that for leveling also.
4)because the rails are round and there is little contact with the plexi, should go glide pretty well
5)seems to be lacking that adjustment...by severing the main pipe in two and using longer pieces, you could clamp those back together side by side and side it up and down as needed.

Cool mount for sure.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 06:26 PM
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Once you get yours painted, I think it will look and blend in just fine. Are you being forced to angle the projector because of screen height? A telescoping main pipe is the only thing left you need. If you have any music stores close, there are lots of drum hardware parts, mic stand parts ect that have that feature...might be worth a look.....
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian I Am
Once you get yours painted, I think it will look and blend in just fine. Are you being forced to angle the projector because of screen height? A telescoping main pipe is the only thing left you need. If you have any music stores close, there are lots of drum hardware parts, mic stand parts ect that have that feature...might be worth a look.....
When I showed those pictures to "she who must be obeyed", she thinks that when we paint it, ours will look better than the pipes. So I'm not going to argue with her. :rolleyes:

Yes, I have to angle the projector because of where the screen is. When I move the PJ all the way forward, I have to point it more level, and when I move it back, I have to tilt it up more (or the other way around -- I can never remember 'till I do it). It's pretty easy with the bungee cords, but it's also kind of tacky.

I've been trying to figure out how to do a telescoping pipe, and haven't been able to figure out how to do it yet. Something like a mic stand or even a music stand would be great because it could handle the tilting also. Unfortunately I don't think I can cut one down short enough and have it still work. But I will indeed take a look at some music accessories -- after all, I am a musician, so it would be really appropriate if I could find something. Thanks for the idea! If I find anything, I'll post it.

-Dan
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 09:10 PM
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I was a musician in a former life, so with 30 years of drum hardware laying around it was pretty easy for me build mine...I'm not sliding it, but I will try and get some pics of mine tomorrow so you can see one possible way to do it. I have the same pipe stub mounted like you, then I used a combo of mounts attached that to get 360 degrees of adjustment for mine. How much much drop do you think you need from the longest to the shortest?
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post #11 of 11 Old 09-05-2005, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian I Am
I was a musician in a former life, so with 30 years of drum hardware laying around it was pretty easy for me build mine...I'm not sliding it, but I will try and get some pics of mine tomorrow so you can see one possible way to do it. I have the same pipe stub mounted like you, then I used a combo of mounts attached that to get 360 degrees of adjustment for mine. How much much drop do you think you need from the longest to the shortest?
Yes, please post some pictures! I'm not sure how much drop I need. I can measure it, but off the top of my head, I'd guess no more than a foot -- probably less.

-Dan
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